UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: mark20 on September 13, 2015, 06:07:36 pm
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Nice crag, <5 min walk in and gets shade from midday. Open to winds from the S to E.
The highball groove line. A few pads and a spotter is useful to avoid barndooring into the blocks
https://youtu.be/LU1_BvCi8eI
Also cleaned and climbed the big arete - Big Excellent Adventure E5 6b. Highball to gear (F0.5ish), and a tricky move to the top
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Looks cool that! Love the sequence to get ur right hand on the left handhold. Could have sped through the first attempt tho. Good tune too.
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That looks fantastic. Is there a top out available or would it make it crap?
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It's very broken and heathery above, best to step off really.
Big Excellent Adventure -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thb0BpzjN9k
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Good work Mark/Emlyn. Both look most excellent.
is the gear any good?
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Yeh it's good but slightly fiddly as it's wider on the left side of the slot. There is a shorties sequence for the top bit too btw
There's a stake belay at the top
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Good effort on the E5, I always thought that looked potentially good. Is it hard to avoid stepping on your gear in that pocket?
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I found it hard enough to get my foot far enough right to get it into the pocket, so I don't think it's a problem
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Good work. Seem to remember the original description of the E5 saying it climbed the lower arete on its lhs. Good to see it done all the way on the right.
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I went and repeated Bodacious Groove on Saturday. Can confirm the quality. Just about the right height, high but not too high.
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I went and repeated Bodacious Groove on Saturday. Can confirm the quality. Just about the right height, high but not too high.
:punk: did you notice if the big excellent adventure was dry?
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These looks ace, HR do you think it'll be dry today?
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I doubt either will be dry today unfortunately. The quarry faces East so doesn't get the sun/wind like the rest of the grit edges so doesn't dry as rapidly. Though it is clean and open so just needs a bit of morning sun, S/E wind or a dry day before
Glad to see it's getting a bit of attention though
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Thanks Legoman
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BEA was not climbable when I was there. The arete was clear but the slab (which contain some holds used to climb the arete) contained some snow and frozen run-off.
I agree with Mark the 20th, I also don't think it gets any sun at this time of year because the sun never gets high enough. A breeze or a dry day should sort it out.
Neither are snow proof. Conversely, it'll stay in condition later in the year as it'll be shady all afternoon.