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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Tommy on September 06, 2015, 12:02:25 pm

Title: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Tommy on September 06, 2015, 12:02:25 pm

For those who like a bit of hard lime, there's a new addition to Ilam Rock in Dovedale. I've worked on it a bit this summer and pretty pleased to get it done as it was on the border of sketchiness that I was up for - bit too many skyhooks, monos and ripping gear for my normal liking. It's not that it's that dangerous (probably)... more that it's felt like one of those routes that was hard to predict exactly what was going to happen. Made it a bit more exciting I suppose!

Climbs the blank wall right of Eye of the Tiger via a very highball 7B+ sequence on monos, 2-finger pockets and crimpers protected by some skyhooks and RPs. Then goes into the crux of EOTT and finally finishes on the tricky headwall of "Thrill of the Fight" for a pumpy jumper. Nice and sustained and fairly tiring if you like endurance routes. Approx 8a+/8b.

Got some little video bits coming soon :-)

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Duncan campbell on September 06, 2015, 01:00:02 pm

Sounds well 'ard! Why the HXS grade, if you don't mind me asking?

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Duncan campbell on September 06, 2015, 01:00:40 pm

Forgot to add good effort!  :clap2:

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Tommy on September 06, 2015, 05:36:37 pm

Seemed like a good cop out?

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: dave on September 06, 2015, 05:57:39 pm

Good effort. But if you don't grade it properly then all that'll happen is some cunt at a mag/ukc will just give it E9 anyway.

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on September 06, 2015, 08:14:25 pm

Great style!

 :2thumbsup:

And good effort.

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Fiend on September 06, 2015, 09:16:07 pm

HXS legend :p

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: haydn jones on September 06, 2015, 09:59:59 pm

Hardest trad route on limestone in the peak?

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Fiend on September 06, 2015, 10:06:07 pm

E10 for sure  :yes:

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Tommy on September 07, 2015, 10:15:49 am

Quote from: haydn jones on September 06, 2015, 09:59:59 pm

Hardest trad route on limestone in the peak?

In which case, it probably makes sense to grade it E7 6c :-)

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: shark on September 07, 2015, 10:21:35 am

I'm promoting this to a news item given that it is the hardest Trad lime route in the Peak.

Well done Tom.  :2thumbsup:

I'm sure it was worth forgoing all that firewood  ;)

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: remus on September 07, 2015, 11:22:23 pm

Blog with a few more details and a bonus trailer at the end: https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2015/09/07/the-final-round-hard-lime/

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Fiend on September 08, 2015, 09:55:57 am

Brrrrr, reading that gave me the shivers, sounds nails. Looking forward to the video.

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: dave on September 08, 2015, 10:14:39 am

Quote from: Fiend on September 08, 2015, 09:55:57 am

Brrrrr, reading that gave me the shivers.

Are you Des'Ree?

https://twitter.com/thenewsbydesree

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: abarro81 on September 08, 2015, 10:41:58 am

Nice one Tom, sounds good

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: shark on September 10, 2015, 11:05:40 am

Teaser preview video up on FB

https://www.facebook.com/CrimpingtonBear/videos/1630121670573722/

Article here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69956

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Fiend on October 09, 2015, 05:01:05 pm

https://vimeo.com/141159361

Title: Re: [The Final Round][HXS 8a+/8b][Ilam Rock]
Post by: Danny on October 10, 2015, 09:54:06 am

Nice Tommy. I'm off for a bath, and then off out to celebrate said bath.