UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: andy_e on August 19, 2015, 08:36:25 am
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A friend of mine might want to buy one of those waistbelt things that you tie a string on to to do lots of boulder problems in a row. This friend of mine will only be sport climbing, and probably only a few times a year. Can anybody recommend
me my friend a lightweight sport climbing harness please?
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Petzl horrendous
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Nice, ta. My friend likes the garish colour scheme but is unsure about the price.
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DMM Centre Alpine?
Being more serious, if you're only doing it a few times a year you hardly need to get a lightweight, specific harness. Surely you've got a harness somewhere?
You never know, you might even fancy some trad as you get older.
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The one I have (which is at my parents' house) is 11 years old and has been sat in a cupboard most of its life so I don't think it's much good any more! I get scared enough a metre above bolts, I don't think trad is on the cards any time soon!
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The one I have (which is at my parents' house) is 11 years old and has been sat in a cupboard most of its life so I don't think it's much good any more! I get scared enough a metre above bolts, I don't think trad is on the cards any time soon!
Adjustable leg loops for when you fatten up ;)
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Use that one. Petzl happily allow a ten year lifespan for all their products, bearing in mind yours has been in good storage and they are covering their arses, you'll be fine. Unless it's been nibbled by rats or something.
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Nice, ta. My friend likes the garish colour scheme but is unsure about the price.
The older model seems to be <£40? I can't see you doing much better than that. IMO they're pretty uncomfortable.
The Arc'teryx system of splitting the weave on the waist/leg loops makes their harnesses VERY comfortable. I'm yet to sit in a brand that's done this as well (BD / Edelrid are both very stiff in comparison). These are not cheap.
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JB, the one at home is a Black Diamond one, is it a similar story for them? Also it would mean having to go home to get it...
Paul, where did you see the old one at £40? I read reviews on Bananafingers of the new one being surprisingly comfortable, but that's where the £70 price-tag comes in.
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Google Shopping?
http://www.exxpozed.com/petzl-hirundos.html?s=81681¤cy=GBP&gclid=Cj0KEQjw0tCuBRDIjJ_Mlb6zzpQBEiQAyjCoBrOdin8JuRc7tBG_LPwYXtKcx_eQ69oxINSSjHNaesEaAjR18P8HAQ
£35+postage - Nat just bought herself some 'das trousers from Euroland. They did arrive.
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Watch the start of Cliffhanger if you want to know about old BD harnesses. I'm sure it'll be fine.
Can't your parents stick it in the post? Or does your prospective chuffing partner not have a spare one for now?
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I used to have that exact harness. Was still Chouinard in them days. My harness is more than 10 years, sees infrequent use, I've no intention replacing it any time soon. Dark dry cupboard is the best place for it to be stored.
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I got an Edelrid Atmosphere which is suitably lightweight and garish. 50 sheets from the Depot.
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The old one is likely to be fine. What should be checked carefully is the front loop as you will rely on that rethreading a lower off.
If concerned just buy a new one = 10 yrs peace of mind. It's a pretty key piece of kit when you think about it. I have a BD chaos, old now but good all rounder. Don't bother w adjustable leg loops unless mountainering.
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Nice, ta. My friend likes the garish colour scheme but is unsure about the price.
Old (2014) Petzl Horrendous on sale from somewhere - I recommend pairing with a full set of new spirits to really polish off the garish orange look
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Use the old one or get an arcteryx, anything else is madness pure and simple.
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I got an Edelrid Atmosphere which is suitably lightweight and garish. 50 sheets from the Depot.
These are really comfy and light harnesses, the only problem is I keep breaking the plasticy tie-in protector. That said, I seem to be the only person who has this problem so I wouldn't really let it put you off.
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Are you Sheffield based? I've got an old model Hirundos:
(http://media.rei.com/media/zz/b6979faa-caba-4c66-8d26-0a831a157409.jpg)
It's probably around 3 years old but I've only worn it a little bit because I hated it (my climbing partners mainly dog routes, which essentially means it's weighted for half of the session). Nice and light though, I wouldn't want much for it. PM me if you're interested.
Otherwise, some of the newer Petlz ones look comfy (but hideous). Samba is it? I'm hoping to try one on somewhere. I've got the Acteryx R320 which is expensive and also pretty uncomfortable. I'd personally go for one with wide waist and leg loops.
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I got an Edelrid Atmosphere which is suitably lightweight and garish. 50 sheets from the Depot.
These are really comfy and light harnesses, the only problem is I keep breaking the plasticy tie-in protector. That said, I seem to be the only person who has this problem so I wouldn't really let it put you off.
No, I've seen a lot of these broken. One Sheffield resident has resorted to wrapping his in duct-tape.
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Given this is probably just a passing fad Andy... why not just rent one from your nearest climbing wall. If is £3 a go, then if you'll need to go chuffing less than 10-15 times before it makes financial sense.
;)
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I got an Edelrid Atmosphere which is suitably lightweight and garish. 50 sheets from the Depot.
These are really comfy and light harnesses, the only problem is I keep breaking the plasticy tie-in protector. That said, I seem to be the only person who has this problem so I wouldn't really let it put you off.
No, I've seen a lot of these broken. One Sheffield resident has resorted to wrapping his in duct-tape.
Fair enough, to my eye it's a blatantly crappy design but I know a few others with one who've had no problems. I think I just fall off a lot. Edelrid claimed it was really rare, stitched a "new design" on which promptly snapped again within a week. It's a shame because I do think it's the comfiest lightweight harness I've ever tried, hence still using it despite the irritation of periodically having to jam the protector back in place. Noticed their latest models have a fabric protector.
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I think I might have been with you at Kilnsey when one broke (as I recall it was a recent replacement). That said, I have an Edelrid Smith with a similar protector, and it (and the rest of the harness) are showing no ill-effects after near 3 years of constant use - with lots of falling off RPs. Good harness from my personal experience - comfy despite being quite stripped-down and light. I wonder if they changed the curvature of the plastic belay loop protector, or the type of plastic or something?
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My tiny sparrow legs are smaller than the unadjustable leg loops on my new harness. Does this matter a huge amount?
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That's why I got one with adjustable leg loops...
Sounds like you need a pair of sticky rubber thigh pads to wear with the harness ;)
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My tiny sparrow legs are smaller than the unadjustable leg loops on my new harness. Does this matter a huge amount?
No.
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Should I ditch my (5th) Whillans inherited from Lakes artist Philip Macleod Coupe ?
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My tiny sparrow legs are smaller than the unadjustable leg loops on my new harness. Does this matter a huge amount?
No.
Oh good, so I'm not going to fall out of it then?
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The Arc'teryx system of splitting the weave on the waist/leg loops makes their harnesses VERY comfortable. I'm yet to sit in a brand that's done this as well (BD / Edelrid are both very stiff in comparison). These are not cheap.
On the whole I'd agree with this but the last generation (e.g R300) develop permanent creases in the waistbelt or legloops which makes them somewhat less comfortable. Mine will be going back to the distributors when I get round to it.
I bought a Mammut Ophir two years ago in the Dolomites when our gear got lost by easyjet. It's just as comfortable, only slightly heavier, and 1/3 the price compared with the Arcteryx.
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My tiny sparrow legs are smaller than the unadjustable leg loops on my new harness. Does this matter a huge amount?
No.
Oh good, so I'm not going to fall out of it then?
No, im pretty sure its all about the waitbelt to keep you in - the leg loops are just for balance & to make it sit properly. Well I hope so as I regularly unclip them :)
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Oh good, so I'm not going to fall out of it then?
Might be a bit less comfortable than it could be in all those hanging belays you will be doing though.
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It'll probably fit perfectly the next time you use it Andy... ;)