UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Sasquatch on August 16, 2015, 08:37:49 pm
-
STG-project 2(8a-ish), plus a couple of 8a/+ boulder projects.
MTG- project 1 (8b+/c-ish)
LTG- to bolt or not to be
M- rest
T- Back to new project for day 2 - Warmed up, then replaced anchor on projects. Got on a second project next to the first that shares the same anchor. Managed to figure out the moves and do it in two sections. Should go next session or two. Prob in the 8a/+ range. The hoped back on big project. Improvement from first day on, but still nails. Did all of the moves, and linked each crux section except the last. Refined beta on first crux to make it a touch easier. also found slightly better rest at 6th bolt, which will likely be key.
W- fingers feel fucked from all the hard crimping.
T- Light aerocap as fingers still feel fucked... 1:15 hard mtn bike. then :pissed:
F- light fb
S-Boulder session, repeat a few v8's and a v10, then work out beta on project.
S-light FB/strength/stretching session. shoulder feels achey. need to get it sorted before it gets worse.
Amazing day on project on Tuesday, but fingers were worked for 3-4 days after from all the crimping. swollen joints and pulley's. I was worried I actually injured one of them. Overall really high psyche this week.
Indoor week in looking likely as forecast calls for rain for the next 7-10 days.
-
gulp
number goal = 7C
actual numbers 14st 12lb
M - drive back from France thinking about bouldering
Tu - washing and general unpacking from holiday, zero barbel session on Don (one lost), stretching
W - work, stress, zero barbel session on Don (no bites)
Th - work late, good buzz from doing good work
F - work, ate from cake table, thought about starting climbing
Sa - Stanage le Bois, surprisingly OK August connies, surprisingly OK performance for first session in several months, loved it, socialized with unknown southerners and foreigners in a good way, lost skin on soft toes and fingers. barbecue (aced new dish). thought about climbing
Su - ache like fuck everywhere, toes sore. sub-moderate parkour tottering. excellent lunch at mother-in-laws with Jasper (kir and red wine). evening barbecue and beer with Big Ed. really don't want to go to work tomorrow. thinking about climbing
forgot to contact GME about fishing
-
Amazing day on project on Tuesday, but fingers were worked for 3-4 days after from all the crimping. swollen joints and pulley's. I was worried I actually injured one of them.
Have you seen the "voodoo flossing" thread?
-
STG trad projects
MTG 8c in Margalef
LTG 9a
BHAG Bruderliebe
M - evening outside on steep trad project. Did mid height gear to top in oner, also did ground to crux two moves in oner. Still not done crux two moves. Did after crux two moves to mid height gear in a oner (only two moves so not that exciting...). A good session, top half is feeling steady-ish (probably 7c+/8a in it's own right), bottom half of bottom half is also ok (maybe font 7B??) to crux moves. Crux moves are hard, as are the next two moves to mid height. Then to end the session had a top rope on Dougs project, got through the crux from the ground but came off a few moves later mis timing a dead point to a pocket.
T - nothing
W - nothing
T - evening outside. Went in the chasm. Horrible humid smeggy conditions, top roped project twice, this is so game on but just soooo bold. Practiced placing the gear, which is blind. Just fine tuning and waiting for conditions (weather and mental). Then went to traverse wall and did a bunch of traversing.
S - nothing
S - outside afternoon. Crazy hot and low team syke meant the group were top roping routes when I got out. I joined the party, did half a dozen or so E2 - E5 routes on top rope, all a bit pointless but nice enough in the sun I suppose. Then dragged Doug into the chasm for another hot humid smeggy top rope on the project, did it clean again.
3 weeks without touching the BM, I feel ashamed. Some good climbing this week, good progress with steep project. Chasm project is coming to a head, hopefully conditions will be good before it becomes stale.
F -
-
Mon: weights dynamic campussing and dynamic bodyweight exercises. Feel ok, despite training the day before.
Tue: staticky campussing half crimp and two-fingered to failure followed by beastmaker
Wed: wall session. Still manage a pretty good session despite previous days' efforts
Thurs: sports massage in the evening
Fri: I have a thirst on
Sat: wall session, since the wee man still isn't quite recovered enough to take away any distance. Broken from massage still.
Sun: agassiz rock. Have never climbed here before. It's quite like of you imagine a piece of choss that's rotated until it's 45 degrees overhanging. It's a wee suntrap and the wee man doesn't mind being there.
Pretty good week all in, despite not getting a single full night's sleep. Have had it too easy for the last ten months and had forgotten what lack of sleep was like.
-
When are you back in the midweek game Lagers?
-
Mon - Pilates sans instuctor, beasting all moves on the video I'm using so one STG completed
Tue - nowt
Wed - nowt
Thurs - Pilates with instructor - good to do some leg based stuff which I have't been doing when using the video
Fri - nowt
Sat - walk in Wales followed by some fishing
Sun - BBQ, lots of awesome food and ales of outstanding quality
Poor week training wise, work insanely busy. Pleased about Pilates progress. On holiday again from tomorrow but hoping to get the Noodle and wife out on some esoteric Teesdale grit, do some walking and fishing...
-
Gis a shout if you're out on some evening Teesdale grit lid!
-
M - Dinas Rock via Swansea PlayZone and Greggs. Gopping. Toweled and did Launch falling off at topDid the odd dry move on Fat Cat Roof and Carpenter's Apprentice.
T -
W - Shipwreck Cove. Did 6c+, then due to limited time got on One Ton Depot 7b+, falling off at top crux. Redpointed then had a look at the classic 7c+. Too pumped to redpoint so stripped it. Dogged 7b on left which was a bit damp. Impressions: weird to be on trad style rock above the sea on bolts but fun holiday stylee.
T -
F -
S -
S - Pembroke. Craig Caerfai with Mrs T_B. Warm up then Armorican HVS, then another easy one and some coasteering. Brilliant chilled and fun day in perfect weather with no one around.
-
When are you back in the midweek game Lagers?
Tuesdays in between school drop/pickup from September and Thursdays until 10am
available for night time heckling too
I'm available for all of next week
charging full rates for beta up to 6C, but offering a 25% discount above that.
probably going to do a BOGOF offer on spotting sometime soon
-
STG: Don’t get injured. Do some training. Climb something long and fairly hard (for me) in Switzerland in September. Excalibur (a 6b that’s an E4 in disguise apparently) on the Wendenstock or Gletschersinfonie on the Wellhorn?
MTG: E5 OS and 7b RP by end of year.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.
M - S: Family holiday in Bavaria, 16 hours of glorious music and perverse theatre. Hearty walks in the forest most days, shoulder and hip routine every day. Three sessions of dead-hanging on the wooden beams in the flat.
A healthy non-climbing holiday. Thanks to Muenchener for the bouldering beta, I packed shoes and harness but the temperatures were sweltering (32-37C) and I wasn’t very tempted. We’ll probably be back next year. Getting stronger fingers is important for my long-term progress so it’s good to be easing back into dead-hanging. Shoulder and elbow tolerant so far.
Plan: work, family trips to Edinburgh and Dorset in next two weeks, so not much climbing on rock. One or two fingerboard sessions a week, one or two long and easy sessions a week.
-
Bit of an epic week...
M: Forecast was cool, overcast, odd showers clearing - so feeling psyched by Mike Adams vids of new problems at Dove Lowe Lancs, I headed out of there.. Having arrived and got my gear organised, the heavens opened - but with a stiff wind and a 30-40 min walk in I figured I could wait it out. It hooned down, but 10 min later I started walking accross. Got a little damp in the remnants of the rain, but in the distance I could see Dove Lowe changing colour as it dried and as I got closer. I warmed up, and what I thought were low flying aircraft (its often on the inbound flight path to Manc airport) turned out to be thunder... Looking out accross the fell towards Manchester I could see a band of dark clouds - the off flash of lightning and now lots of thunder rumbles. For those who have never been - Dove Lowe is a rocky outcrop on the top (ish) of pretty high but flat moorland... think a mini Almscliff but in higher flatter surrounds. There is no natural shelter - a valley - gulley or anywhere else to shelter. It seems I was caught out - in open exposed country with an impending thunderstorm.
Never mind - google will help me. Yet in a comedy moment, my phone used up all its data - and I had to buy some more (clock ticking...) as the rumbles got closer. A quick search (and a rather concerned tweet) suggested that near - but not close to the rocks was the best option - and crouched on a mat (they recommended a camping mat - but I assumed a bouldering mat was miles better). Leaving my bag stuffed under a dry rock - I went and crouched (or sat huddled) on my mat - some 5-8m away from the base of the rocks. And waited. It pissed it down for 10 min - big stinging drops of rain - my softshell couldnt cope. My nice comfy bouldering mat had a sag where I was sat - so I ended up sitting in a puddle - but (amazingly) no lightning near by - as if it stopped just before.
It stopped (mostly) raining - soaked to the skin, I changed into some dry clothes I had in my bag (spare bouldering trousers - a climbing vest and a thin hoody) and stuck my clothes up on some rocks to dry... Despite being somewhat withered by the last 30 min of outdoor experience, I figured I may as well wait for the rock to dry. Sadly - several smaller drizzly showers buzzed througha nd after an hour I a gave up - and walked/stomped the 30 min back to the car with kit that weighed a considerable bit more than on the way out... but alive and well...
Tu: Forecast better - back to Dove lowe. Wasn't going to let it beat me :)
https://vimeo.com/135994861
Well worth going back - Tangled up in blue - the first prob in the clip (7A) is superb... really balancy, body position critical problem. It would be a worthy starred classic if it were at Burbage etc.. Also managed Talking Shillibut (7A+ - not in the film) which is different (a little harder) after I broke a pebble trying it last time... and Extemporise... I normally steer clear of ANY problem that involves the words Mantle - and ended up doing two that quite heavily involved them...
W: Battered. Shattered (I think) from two days of longish walk ins (for me) and a hard day climbing on tues. Triceps were in agony (mantling... ). Tried to do a beastmaker session - did one set on the big holds - then went and had a beer and watched TV..
Th: Still knackered! Andy Popp was heading out in the morning to work on his Harmers project - so keen to catch up (more to chat than to climb) I set out - but having got 10 min into the journey - M56 shut/knackered so turned back. I really didnt fancy a long drive anywhere - so ended up going to Hobson Moor. Enthusiasm flagging, I got my stuff out of the car, walked towards the quarry - saw it was full of a kids climbing party thought aaaaaghh! and turned around.
I then stood in the middle of the road, not sure what to do - but decided to go back and see what I could get done in the quarry... Actually, they were very well behaved in a well run group from Logport Wall - and I pottered (and failed) on some problems on the back wall and headed up to the house on the hill. Repeated the 7A LH version pretty fast (feels soft..) and set to work on the 7B RH version (feels nails). Crimpy crimpy pulling. Probably fine if you practice on a board all the time - but I don't :) BUT - from having previously not been able to do anything on it apart from barely pull on - after warming into the problem I managed all the moves in isolation - then ran out of skin and strength...
Fr: Work. Curry. Beer.
Sa: MrsTT away for the weekend - so a long day planned at Blackstone. ANOTHER long walk in... Windier - colder and the odd bit of drizzle. Temps in the low teens - a strong wind and overcast - good conditions... Started at the trig point - then worked what I thought was a new sit start to Paggered (6B+) then realised the guide said it was a SS :D tore a couple of holes in my tips - and it felt more like 7A than 6B+.. REALLY good problem though... Techy - and very hard to hold the first barn door - some cunning toe under stuff to just keep it in...
https://vimeo.com/136376837
Then managed to do "the Lushering" 7A - that I did - but was blown off the top out last time I was there! (using a pinch on the slopey gaston is some sneaky beta) - and a quick repeat of Con - Air (good value). Had a nice chat with a bloke up there taking pictures of the wind farm developments for planners - then retreated to the less windswept back boulders. Started to feel trashed and had blood coming from three tips... but didnt want to waste the walk in - so creaked up Home improvements (6C) and worked the 7A traverse on that block - managing it with crimps using taped up tips (squirming around!) - a really good problem and worthy of its star (a cheeky heel toe at the end helped..)
Went home - felt shattered - was social with neighbours having a mini street party. Drank tea instead of wine...
Su: Rest. Nurse tips. Feel tired.....
-
11.1-4 ;D
M. Last day in Squamish :( AM Head out with Ben to the Grand Wall boulders. Bit greasy. He gets Sloppy Poppy and Easy in an Easy Chair. I had another go at Super Daddy Long Legs V6 and did it in overlapping halves but didnt seal the deal. PM Travelling
T. Travelling
W.
T. 7am jet lag induced session. OK scores
F.
S. Temps looked OK and light so went to Malham with Tommy and Cheque for a benchmarking session on the Oak. Fingerboard warmup before we left and warmed up on Consenting and F&EE when we got there. Dogged up the Oak. Did throw straight off and linked left traverse to top. 3 goes from ground getting established but busted on third undercut. Had a walk and a long rest and then a 4th go with sore tips and toes but still got to touch the undercut. Overall not a bad session so worth persisting. Tommy went on Raindogs and did all the moves I think.
S.
At a year low weightwise and not looking gaunt or low on energy. Scales say 10% body fat which if accurate means potentially more to lose which would be an adult life time low which is an exciting prospect. Will try and arrange to get a reading at the Sheff Uni sport lab to find out if the fat % is accurate and what my body comp is.
Back to Malham tomorrow afternoon (tuesday).
-
Did throw straight off and linked left traverse to top. 3 goes from ground getting established but busted on third undercut.
Which is the third undercut Si, the one just before the throw?
-
Did throw straight off and linked left traverse to top. 3 goes from ground getting established but busted on third undercut.
Which is the third undercut Si, the one just before the throw?
Yes - meant to say undercut by third bolt.
Getting there 3 x in a row is a reasonable result for me after a lay off from it. See how tomorrow goes. If I'm having solid goes getting up to making the throw move then worth persisting whilst temps are still reasonable. Otherwise I will be focussing on upping Power Endurance as the individual moves are currently feeling fine.
-
Three weeks here, sorry.
STG - Salbit South Ridge (ticked)
New STG - 7a on the trip
MTG - Incapacity Benefit, WCJ inside a year (current best is 6b flashes to give some perspective)
LTG - Salbit West Ridge and something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA
Mon - Fri worked late
Sat to Mon - Portland. Far too tired, so a bit hit and miss but did some moves that stopped me earlier this year, tried bloody hard and pulled an inner core muscle. Ouchy ouch.
Tue - Fly to Zurich, train to Luzern and dinner with friends in Kriens before getting 4hrs kip and an early alarm
Wed - Salbit South Ridge. Parked in the valley, did the direct start which kept us in front of those starting from the hut and topped some 7hrs after leaving the car, some 2000m in ascent. Two beers and my legs fell apart on the last 500m of descent. No mountain training, thin air and never having climbed on granite before makes me think that it'd be perfectly feasible to shave at least an hour off this, as a team of two pitching it. Awesome day! The climbing is really nice, no pulling hard. The crux pitch is harder than 5a - more like 6a and is the only bit I'd not be too happy soloing as the crux is delicate balancing on crap feet. I could spend day after day on that ridge and not get bored.
This is Salbit Sudgrat reflected in a pool on the walk in.
(http://i.imgur.com/blR5BBZl.jpg)
Thu - Friaki, Pilatus. 50min walk in to a perfect limestone crag not in any guide, bolted back in 2003 by Rene. Very Peak style with lots of sidepulls and undercuts. Too battered from day before and the pulled core muscle, so had a boulder about at the bottom before deciding rest was right. The hard 7s and 8a/+s looked amazing, genuine lines up the rock. Certainly one to go back to after the trip. Pierre ticked his first 7c at the age of 57, just seven years after starting to climb.
Fri - Gig. Al-berto and the Fried Bikinis new album launch at the Yucatan in Engelberg. Cracking night, beer, food and friends.
Sat - Newly bolted granite slab in Gosherenalp. Rene did nine FA, I ticked some 2nd ascents and had a most amazing time. New routes are dirty, I have a new found respect for FA climbers and bolters. Felt really privileged to be there and almost bagged the 6c. The crag goes up to 7b slabs with some easier climbs in the 5s, and a certain 3 star 6c.
Pierre on the second ascent of a new 6c.
(http://i.imgur.com/vOutzXvl.jpg)
Sun - Rest day.
Mon - Gosherenalp. Granite slabs in a guidebook this time that Rene bolted back in 1989, interestingly the grades are higher in the guide than those painted on the rock. Didn't get any easier I guess as they got cleaner. Really pleased to have flashed a 6a+ that had a nasty font-esque mantle ( I can't mantle at all well) and the sun shone again. Beer after.
Tue - Fly home
Wed - Water-cum-jolly Cornice with Muenchener. Incapacity Benefit, perfect day really. Only got the crux moves to sort now which is all down to where to place my feet, as usual. Just love this place.
Thu - Staden Quarry. Another nice day but not at all bothered about single pitch trad on limestone, so let Alan lead everything. I'm becoming a sports climber for sure.
Fri - Rained all day but we went to Rubicon and had a play on Small but Perfectly Formed. jeez. A boulder problem in the sky! Nails for me, total anti-route haha. Climbing Unit, Derby boulder comp. Got to problem 7 and got bored. Cake, coffee and the circuit board.
Sat - Rest day.
Sun - Smalldale. Main Wall was a nice bit of rock, tried the 6c+ to the side but it seemed fiercely technical at the bottom and top. Nice climbing tho. Wandered to the easier area to find loose rock (removed loads off one route) and had a sense of why did I bother. Shame to end the hols in a quarry but was being sociable with mates.
Things learnt - I like easy multipitch trad. I like sports and bouldering. Single pitch trad is not for me. I hate quarries in general. Dinorwig I adore. By lowering my feet, I keep my right shoulder in and can use the dodgy right wrist much better. Pierre has inspired me to try and climb much harder. There's a whole world of amazing crags in Switzerland that are not in the guides, bolted well and aren't polished. The Fried Bikinis new album is great. Regula and Rene are amazing hosts - I met Rene whilst bouldering in Engelberg about three years ago and stayed in touch through facebook. Facebook can be ace. Rest days even on short trips are massively important. Don't climb three days in a row. Power Club is great too, the psyche was high after last week thread. Cheers to Muenchener for the quick visit too.
;D
-
STG: The Brute (by 6th Sept);
Diamond new route proj; Detritus Wall trad proj; G.Orme trad proj.
MTG: Onsight attempts on The Hurting, Cathedral, Banana Wall, Anubis (next winter)
LTG: 8c (within 2.5 years)
M. Massage.
T. Diamond, started out poor connies, got slightly better later but never good. 3 burns on Brute top half. Met Will S. - impressive flash go, me and Caff looking on wondering if this was going to be the first brit flash. Then looking solid on his working goes. Focussed and structured beast with a plan, good to see.
W. Diamond. Good connies after sun hit. Dithered a bit and only had 1 working burn from cold on Brute. refined a couple of moves on headwall and drop-knee move. Will got high on redders, clearly gonna go down. Really bad idea not warming up as I got home and realised I'd tweaked the right bicep longhead tendon frigging on a draw, idiot.
T. wine/chocolate/pizza self-indulgent injury sulk.
F. ditto. Voodoo wrap arrived. Did left shoulder old scar tissue, well impressed with results.
S. Diamond. Amazing conditons - wind, low humidity, everything mint. Luckily, as it was the busiest ever day down there - 28 climbers including 6 8c+ wads. Great to see. Bicep tendon not good so no Brute (also queues 5 deep). Got on The Shining, utterly brilliant stam route with no hard moves, well psyched for this while shoulder heals. Flossed various body parts with good result inc. bicep tendon.
S. Core and mobility workout. Flossed both shoulders and forearms, felt amazing.
Bit gutted to injure bicep longhead frigging a draw while cold, dickhead. Prob lay off Brute while it heals and prob won't do it this season. Still loads of amazing rotues to go at that shouldn't stress it too much, inc. the trad ones.
-
Did throw straight off and linked left traverse to top. 3 goes from ground getting established but busted on third undercut.
Which is the third undercut Si, the one just before the throw?
Yes - meant to say undercut by third bolt.
Getting there 3 x in a row is a reasonable result for me after a lay off from it. See how tomorrow goes. If I'm having solid goes getting up to making the throw move then worth persisting whilst temps are still reasonable. Otherwise I will be focussing on upping Power Endurance as the individual moves are currently feeling fine.
Yeah a fine balance of power and endurance that route.. I found geting from the ground to the first undercut at the start of the leftwards traverse was my starting point for links, and from there I'd get one move further along the traverse each go until it went. Flicking the hips in for the 'right foot-in moves' on the traverse was crucial for me. Kneebar finish works well. Never got the start that fluid and would drop it on some goes.
Oh and if you latch the throw on the link then you really 'should' get to the first underut on traverse, can get some back on the horn.
-
Yeah a fine balance of power and endurance that route.. I found geting from the ground to the first undercut at the start of the leftwards traverse was my starting point for links,
Still not got that high but I live in hope.
-
Will try and arrange to get a reading at the Sheff Uni sport lab to find out if the fat % is accurate and what my body comp is.
how much does this cost?
got any contact details?
ta
-
Yeah a fine balance of power and endurance that route.. I found geting from the ground to the first undercut at the start of the leftwards traverse was my starting point for links,
Still not got that high but I live in hope.
Latch that throw and you should get to the start of leftwards traverse.
-
Yeah a fine balance of power and endurance that route.. I found geting from the ground to the first undercut at the start of the leftwards traverse was my starting point for links,
Still not got that high but I live in hope.
Latch that throw and you should get to the start of leftwards traverse.
Yes - should do though fallen off moving right and going for the sloper a far few times now.
This time it WILL be different. Hopefully
-
Will try and arrange to get a reading at the Sheff Uni sport lab to find out if the fat % is accurate and what my body comp is.
how much does this cost?
got any contact details?
ta
If you get in the machine and the reading says "one at a time please" then you pay double.
-
Will try and arrange to get a reading at the Sheff Uni sport lab to find out if the fat % is accurate and what my body comp is.
how much does this cost?
got any contact details?
ta
Its not an official thing - I know someone who works there. Ill ask what the score is when I next go.
-
Yeah a fine balance of power and endurance that route.. I found geting from the ground to the first undercut at the start of the leftwards traverse was my starting point for links,
Still not got that high but I live in hope.
I think a lot of people on this board do too. I'm sure you'll get up the thing...
-
STG- 7a+ or (ideally) 7b on lime before September 18th.
MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr/blog/behind-curtains-hell-24-hours-horseshoe-hell/) and The Show Me State (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-show-me-state/107950447) in September, Wall of Horrors (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65) in October.
LTG- Raindogs.
M- Rest.
Tu- Cheedale Cornice. Well psyched for Martial Music- going through the moves in my head all day. Got to the crag just in time for the early-evening bottleneck of lots of people warming up on it. Decide to get on War Memorial (6c, easiest route on the crag but with a run out at the top as it joins a trad route) instead.
Start up the 7b to it's right by mistake, realising my mistake when it gets hard, then faff about trying to get the clips out while downclimbing. get on WM immediately after and fall off going to the second bolt. Mate flashes it.
Martial Music is now free and I'm partially warmed-up but decide to go for the flash on WM too. All works well for the hard climbing but it turns out the run-out is laybacking and as I haven't magically become good or confident (they're pretty much linked aren't they?) at laybacking my mind melts. Many falls. Decide to have another burn from the ground but still can't do it. Humiliating stick-clipping of the chains ensues :doubt: . Fall off it on to-rope! Top rope it clean twice from the floor.
W- Rest.
Th- Awesome Walls. Had hoped to go to the Cornice but partner can't do it so head up unpsyched for some autobelay mileage. Very pleased to see the routes have been reset since I was last here, vastly increasing the appeal. 35 pitches, up to 6c.
F- Rest.
Sa- Malham. First visit since September 2013. Toprope Consenting Adults clean- pretty cool as I haven't climbed it clean since I redpointed it in June 2012. YYFY I'm finally good enough to warm up at Malham :dance1:
Plan is to toprope Free & Even Easier once to learn the moves then get on lead. It's only 12m after all! Of course it doesn't happen like that at all. I'd been warned off this route as it's fingery, but it feels overwhelmingly so on first acquaintance as I try to use horizontal edges in the manner of the low 7s in the middle of the Cornice. Of course it's Malham and Shark's beta stream on my second go reveals that all the best holds are non-obvious sidepulls rather than the footholds I'd been crimping. 6 topropes in all, the last three with one hang each time but feeling like much harter work. On redpoint next visit.
Su- Battered with sore fingers.
Back up to Malham tomorrow. Glory hopefully awaits both me and Shark.
-
Humiliating stick-clipping of the chains ensues :doubt: .
Nothing humiliating about that - it means you're trying hard!
Best of luck at Malham :)
-
Still not got that high but I live in hope.
I think a lot of people on this board do too. I'm sure you'll get up the thing...
Thanks shurt
Back up to Malham tomorrow. Glory hopefully awaits both me and Shark.
Rather a perfunctory redpoint for you and incremental progress for me
-
Gis a shout if you're out on some evening Teesdale grit lid!
Will do mate. Planning a Sunny Brow sesh with the Noodle one day but I fancy popping my Crag Hill cherry too...
-
Do it beast! Good crag!
-
Another stinking hot week. Far to hot to venture indoors.
M-Fr - A few clients to see, rest of week spent amassing brownie points for the autumn, painting the kitchen and hallway
S- Driver to Albi in the south. Eat, sleep, drink around pool. A circuit of push/ pull ups and planks.
Su - Same as above with less exercise.
-
Amazing day on project on Tuesday, but fingers were worked for 3-4 days after from all the crimping. swollen joints and pulley's. I was worried I actually injured one of them.
Have you seen the "voodoo flossing" thread?
Indeed, and I'm very intrigued. I've got a fair few bit of scar tissue that could use some flossing - fingers, elbows, shoulders, hips, knees, ankles, and toes.... Do they make a whole body flosser that I could use?
I'm planning on picking up some theraband today.
-
Do they make a whole body flosser that I could use?
Gimp suit!
-
Back up to Malham tomorrow. Glory hopefully awaits both me and Shark.
Rather a perfunctory redpoint for you and incremental progress for me
:) I'm told I see life in a romantic way.
Humiliating stick-clipping of the chains ensues :doubt: .
Nothing humiliating about that - it means you're trying hard!
Cheers! I always have to try hard on laybacks.
decide to go for the flash on WM too.
Meant to put "flash the rest of the route" as I'd already fallen off low down.
-
Mon: Hangboard and treadmill. Pretty heavy hangboard session.
Tues: Treadmill. Quick 20 mins.
Wed: Deadlifts - 1RM up to 180kgs. New personal best. YYFY. Bouldering and hangs in the evening. Good training day.
Thurs: More treadmill. Getting faster. Followed by beers. Many of them. And junk food.
Fri: Weights at lunch - 5 x (5 DL @ 130kgs, 25 KB swings with a 24kg bell). BEasted afterwards. Hangboard in the afternoon.
Sat: Franschoek wine tasting followed by 8 course birthday dinner at Le Quartier Francais. Quite easily the best meal I've ever had. Spectacular. Stiff.
Sun: Hangover. Rest day #2. Stiff as anything.
Overall a good training week until the diet / training took a bit of a hit as a result of my birthday. Time to get disciplined again. Psyched on the DL PB though..
-
Sat: Franschoek wine tasting followed by 8 course birthday dinner at Le Quartier Francais. Quite easily the best meal I've ever had. Spectacular. Stiff.
Nice. Meal I had at Haute Cabriere is possibly one of the best I've ever had, I'm glad I was paying in Sterling though. I had trouble holding wine glass due to skinless tips after a day at De Doorns bouldering.
-
will be looking into the UKB plait de jour - voodoo flossing this week, didn't fancy creatine so gave it a miss...
STG: something useful outside - 7a-7b
LTG: still Bullworker at Brean Down, V7 or better would be nice on the boulders
m: nothing
t: got on the fingerboard and did 2 sets, 40 press ups (2 x 20)
w: nowt
t: nothing (I'm referring to training for climbing here not life, I'm not watching daytime tv all day)
f: nothing
s: back on painting the white lines for the last day, got it done. left knee fucked, iced it
s: knee feeling better today. got 3 sets done on the fingerboard and felt utterly beasted in a good way. then up all night with the youngster - back of the net.
hoping to get down to berry head this week weather permitting (its looking dodgy currently) lots of stuff to crack on with down there but only have three pairs of boots!
-
2 bad weeks
Previous week
S - drove to Aviemore for short holiday. Unpacked and went out for short ride on bike, got lost, ended up hacking through dense heather
M - not much, played with kids at Loch Morlich til it rained. Short walk after
T - grass sledging, surprising tiring dragging kids up hill. Short walk
W - Landmark Centre - stood in queues, climbed fire tower.
T - packed and went home
F - home, short walk to park
S - short walk in park, light bouldering session at Boltsheugh in evening.
S - flying kite with kids.
M - nothing, took kids to Codonas Fun Fair
T - nothing, first day back at work
W - bouldered in evening at wall. Had an OK session, coped beteer with new stuff on 10 deg board, struggled on steep.
T - nothing
F - flew to London - 50th wedding anniversary, drank too much ate too much
S - flew back - dinner dance with free bar, drank too much, ate too much
S - nursed hangover, ate crap.
13 st 9 at weigh in this morning, put on 9 lbs in 2 weeks. :(
-
Mon/Tue. Nothing. A bit down due mums death.
Wed. Bike to work 20.18 miles 1 hr 7 mins. Bike home 47.06 miles 2 hrs 45 mins.
Thu. Board just repeated 15 or so classics after warming up.
Fri. Nothing Grandson Cameron to stay cheered me up no end.
Sat. Family stuff. Bike 1 hour intervals.
Sun. Dove Lowe. Boogaloo 3 sit 5+Whiskey drinker 6b noticed some insects" are these midges Bob" " No I don't think so" ouch!!!! Sprayed my self with insecticide but not a lot of use. Did Doodlebumps 6b Umph 6c Grunt 7a+ :2thumbsup: Moved to Hammerhead to hopefully escape the midges. Ended up climbing with my fleece on with the hood up to give some respite even though it was warm. Just ended up flailing bitten all over.
Bad week in a lot of ways got better as the week went on and first 7a+ Since turning 60.
-
Mon/Tue. Nothing. A bit down due mums death.
NNFN. Sorry to hear that. Condolences.
-
Condolences
Seconded. And good effort on Grunt!
-
Mon/Tue. Nothing. A bit down due mums death.
NNFN. Sorry to hear that. Condolences.
Really sorry to hear that webbo, awful news.
-
Sad news, Webbo, sorry to hear that.
-
STG - probably going to concentrate on Roof Warrior and Body Machine come September
MTG -
LTG Develop killer endurance
M rest after weekend
T slow 5km run with kids on bikes then 30 minutes on a pedalo to warm down.
W - slow 15km ride with kids, had planned to train but didn't get chance.
T - Mini Works with kids & friends- Volume - 70-80 problems 4-6c. all reds, pinkles & yellows, about half whites & murples, few showboat one armers. Felt good.
F - Repeaters - felt good warming up, even managed one of my five limit boulder problems from the power phase earlier in the year. Then touched the fingerboard and oh dear, could only just manage a BW F3 hang (currently 59kg, PB = 75kg). Did 5 sets of 7x7s Repeaters and felt goosed. Maybe it's partly down to the big session yesterday but maybe that's just keeping my head in the sand. On the plus side, finger held up.
Full weights session - pressups, sh press, lat raises, triceps, biceps, lock off laps.
S - Foot on campusing - 8 x 1:20 on, 1:20 rest. Completed (just) which was a bit of a surprise.
S - early train then 9 hours slow shuffling around London attractions. Knackering.
Been flossing my finger last few days, feels good, especially straight after the flossing, hopefully see how it feels to climb on later although I seem to have picked up the plague in London and the thought of doing something doesn't appeal much.
-
At a year low weightwise and not looking gaunt or low on energy.
How you manage that on Mrs Shark's foie-gras-goose-fattening approach to feeding her family is a mystery to me. Conversely I am fighting to get back down from a three-month weight high. At least there are no beers or patisserie left in the fridge now, just the contents of the numerous assorted cereal packets to resist. I should have insisted you took those to the airport ...
Sorry about that. The kids can burn it off. I'm not so lucky. With your influence she has bought into making some dietary changes as she also wants to get leaner for an upcoming triathlon and another marathon in October. Whilst the kids can have pasta or potatoes we will just have vegetables or salad. I have moderated my muesli addiction. Home alcohol consumption for both of us is now zero and greek yoghurt is now a fridge staple.
-
Will try and arrange to get a reading at the Sheff Uni sport lab to find out if the fat % is accurate and what my body comp is.
how much does this cost?
got any contact details?
ta
Its not an official thing - I know someone who works there. Ill ask what the score is when I next go.
I asked and he cant do it and in fact this will be the last time he can do it for me.
I will find out if there is an alternative.
-
A lot of Uni sports departments will do it for a fee.
-
A lot of Uni sports departments will do it for a fee.
That's what I'm hoping
-
she has bought into making some dietary changes as she also wants to get leaner for an upcoming triathlon and another marathon in October.
swap her triathlon clothes for ones that are a size smaller
that'll motivate her
-
I have a mental block on spending money on her in case a better option becomes available
-
Mrs has started doing triathlons too. To knock fifteen minute off her cycle time from the first one she did, I'm training her on how to put a chain back on when it gets stuck in your front derailleur.
-
Right, first post! Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?
Here we go... bit nervous about having laughable goals... after very recently achieving a huge LTG (that I got into climbing to achieve!) my goals are a little grey :unsure:
STG - Consolidate at 6c-7a+ without getting too injured. Antag exercises at least 4 times a week
MTF - Redpoint 7b/7b+ Headpoint E6***
LTG - E5 onsight. RP 7c/8a....? Not sure if this is possible in the next 2/3 years with injuries, but maybe 8-10?
M - Rest (family time)
T - Short hangboard session - stopped because it hurt
W - hangboard session with feet on
T - Rest (tennis elbow exercises)
F - Rest (tennis elbow exercises)
S - Dropped last move of 6c+ onsight at Masson Lees, easy second go. Also very close to Hilti 7a second go, very painful on final crimp before chains so I stopped for the dat(in my palm & forearm)
S - Smalldale, wanted to take it easy due to sore arm, 3 6c's, frustratingly dropped last move from the jugs by the chains. Won't be back though, not a nice crag
Strangely my arm is now feeling a bit better!
*** editing after reading posts below
-
Right, first post! Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?
Here we go... bit nervous about having laughable goals... after very recently achieving a huge LTG (that I got into climbing to achieve!) my goals are a little grey :unsure:
I thought you'd have sorted this by now! :P I'd best fix this for you...
STG - More mono pullups than me
MTG - Foot on campus harder than me
LTG- E8 8a and 8A
Anyways, welcome to power club.
*have you read the voodoo flossing thread - it really might be worth a go on that injury of your's?
-
Right, first post! Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?
Different for everyone I think but for me it breaks down as current block, next block or two, beyond that. With a block being each 3-4 month period that my year breaks down into.
-
for me STG - this month MTG - next month LTG - sometime
-
STG - I should probably get around to doing that soon.
MTG - I'll probably think about doing that once I've done the STG.
LTG - Probably unrealistic, but I'll put one down so that Nik doesn't get grumpy.
-
Right, first post! Can anyone explain the timings on LT MT & ST goals?
Here we go... bit nervous about having laughable goals... after very recently achieving a huge LTG (that I got into climbing to achieve!) my goals are a little grey :unsure:
I thought you'd have sorted this by now! :P I'd best fix this for you...
STG - More mono pullups than me
MTG - Foot on campus harder than me
LTG- E8 8a and 8A
Anyways, welcome to power club.
*have you read the voodoo flossing thread - it really might be worth a go on that injury of your's?
hahaha! Maybe at my LTG level I can do more mono pullups than you
Drop E8 to E7 & 8A to 7B/+ maybe :thumbsup: can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner
Lots of theraband ordered!!
-
can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner
You've not been to Font yet...
-
can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner
You've not been to Font yet...
Or pinches wall.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
-
can't see me ever wanting to climb 8A, except maybe Careless Torque which is a stunner
You've not been to Font yet...
Or pinches wall.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
Brilliant! :bow:
-
Sticking to the mileage in prep for Ceuse trip next month.
M: 30 mins AeroCap
T: Llanymynech - 6c warm up repeat on "Crab Stick". Then on-sighted "Ship Dip" (6c+), a great route climbing wise but truly harrowing to lead. Seriously run out on the hard moves. I could of decked in at least 5 places. Then to make things even more fun 2/3's of the way up 2 of the bolts looked completely corroded and knackered, wouldn't of fancied a fall on them. Felt at least 7a to me but the fear probably made it seem harder.
Warmed down with 6b and 2 x 6b+ repeats.
W: Rest
T: 20 mins Aerocap and Antags/Stretching - Evening swimming with little one.
F: Took our son to the climbing wall for the first time. Very proud moment for me! :2thumbsup:
He's almost 3 so doesn't have the biggest attention span, but he enjoyed it. Putting his favorite teddy on a high hold on the bouldering wall seemed to do the trick. Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope? He wasn't too psyched for it, got him a decent petzl harness.
Pretty disappointed with the kids wall at the Boardroom though. No really easy juggy stuff. All not so great, spaced holds. Not too happy with having to pay £10 to get the little one in either and then £6 every time I want to take him again, hardly encouraging kids to climb is it?
S: Orme - Did "Gateau Blaster" (6a/+) a DWS in Gateau Zawn first thing in the morning. Absolutely freezing, wouldn't of wanted to fall in! Ace route.
St Tudnos Lower - Went to check out some adventurous (spaced bolts) ~30m sport routes in an awesome location high above the sea. Did 2x 6a+, 2x 6b and 6c. Good mileage.
S: Rest
-
He's almost 3 so doesn't have the biggest attention span, but he enjoyed it. Putting his favorite teddy on a high hold on the bouldering wall seemed to do the trick. Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope? He wasn't too psyched for it, got him a decent petzl harness.
Build up to it - first get to one hold, then lower off, next time try for next hold, etc etc. Our son like "sideways climbing" the best. No need to worry about height like bouldering or climbing and the holds on the traversing wall are massive.
-
Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope?
let him mess about (you pushing) using a rope and harness as a giant swing for an hour or so
-
:strongbench:
STG - I should probably get around to doing that soon.
MTG - I'll probably think about doing that once I've done the STG.
LTG - Probably unrealistic, but I'll put one down so that Nik doesn't get grumpy.
Waste of effort, I'm always grumpy.
-
Not too happy with having to pay £10 to get the little one in either and then £6 every time I want to take him again, hardly encouraging kids to climb is it?
Sheesh!! My missus complained at the Hangar that it was full price for kidlets some time ago and they've dropped it to £3 for the little hangar and £4 if you want to use the rest of the wall and £1 for shoes and no joining fee. To be honest the £10 joining fee is the main reason I've never climbed at the Boardroom despite the fact that it's not that far away...
-
He's almost 3 so doesn't have the biggest attention span, but he enjoyed it. Putting his favorite teddy on a high hold on the bouldering wall seemed to do the trick. Anyone got any tips on how to get him used to the rope? He wasn't too psyched for it, got him a decent petzl harness.
Not what you asked i know but I decided not to put mine on a rope, but rather to take them bouldering where I can help them more easily and hopefully they'll develop movement skills and technique which will give them confidence when they do get on a rope.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
-
Ours prefers climbing on around and under outdoor boulders too. Really good one on the beach near us, steep and juggy on one side, more slabby and featured on the other. And has an enormous rusty mooring ring embedded in it, which is a good diversion to swing from.
At the climbing wall here kids under 5 are (or were) free. I find even slightly slabbier walls with smaller holds are easier for them to climb than vertical ones with bigger holds.
-
My daughter preferred being on a rope when she was 4ish, she spent alot of time shouting" Pull Dad " so she could be pulled to the top of the wall and be lowered down. Or I would have to climb half way up the very overhanging lead wall lower down, tie her in pull her up 10 foot. Then she would swing around, she found all this more enjoyable than climbing at that age.
-
Hard week, little training and lots of low quality food and alcool.
Mon - shoulder rehab; bouldering; 2 mins farmer's walk x2.
Tue - shoulder rehab; barbell complex, glute bridge x2; hill sprints x6.
The rest of the week was spent moving hundreds of cases of water and wine.
Quite happy about the sprints. Didn't feel sparky on the board but I tried a longstanding project that is really really hard.
Finally temps dropped under 30 degrees. 28 today.
Shoulder is doing jot bad, I'll probably have to start doing something new because healing stalled a bit but it could be due to lack of excercise, sleep, good eating habits and water.
Despite all, I'm still amazing in front of the mirror. And the mirror never lies. Kind of.
-
STG Rock Atrocity
MTG More 7Cs and 8as
LTG 8A 8b
M. Interview. Went really well (didn't get it, but was a very close second apparently and it might not be a closed door just yet...).
T. Churnet session. Went to have a look at the Discreet Block and give The Mentalist 7C a go. Did Propeller Head 7A first in a couple of tries. Then got on Mentalist. Painful!! 30mins and 5/6 goes and I couldn't take the pain no more. One move in particular was causing problems, moving the foot round the lip - heel onto the pebble. Could get it close to the pebble but not close enough, need a little more flexibility in the hips maybe! Also tried Bizarre 7B. Could do it all except the final slap (which is half the problem ;)), not even in isolation - ah well.
W. Wall session, Boulder Central.
T. Wall session, power endurance.
F.
S.
S.
-
Late in the week. Been busy...
STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 6/10 done.
LTG: V11.
M: Rest. Night shift Sunday night...
T: Day work. St Leonards. New stuff up to V5/6. Usual made problems up. Abit of campussing, no fingerboard because wrist/finger is still iffy but plenty of shoulder work after.
W: Trenches. Lovely sandbagged crag. Stuff up to V5 and bailed off the top of a great V6. Great underrated crag. Night shift.
T: Crumbly. Warmed up repeating a V6, then got back on Sushi Train V8. Still can't work out how to do the top. Had a play on Life Changes V11. Got all moves bar 2 (its long) but I really don't like it. I find its ugly holds with ugly moves. Night shift
F: Rest.
S: Frontline & Crumbly. Frontline first thing in the AM. Rocket Man felt horrible, was spooging off everything. Repeated Low Down Boogie V8 2nd go. 3 attempts on Paratroopin V7, I should be able to do this, I don't know why I can't. Got my hand over the side pull every time... I just want it done and out the way...
Night session at Crumbly. Repeated V6 first go, usually takes me 2/3. Worked out abit more of the top on Sushi Train V8 but other than that, had a pretty shit session. Delicious Thai after though so that was good.
S: St Leonards. Arvo beasting session. Finally did my campus problem across the finger/campus boards. Been trying that for like 6 months. Alot of making up problems, some pretty tough! Finished off a few others that I had made but hadn't done yet too. Good session.
Low Down Boogie V8
(http://i.imgur.com/78DoNT9.jpg)
-
Looks a tad dangerous, following someone that close behind! I bet it was embarrassing all turning up at the crag wearing the same thing.
-
Team ascent. Only way I can get up things...
-
Yeah, the guy topping out is definitely standing on the head of the guy doing the press move!
-
Does that count as a dab?
-
Only for the top climber.
-
Yeah, the guy topping out is definitely standing on the head of the guy doing the press move!
Combined tactics, very old school Victorian.
-
STG: Get a couple of days climbing in on UK family visit mid August
MTG (2015): redpoint two more 7a’s and a 7a+
LTG (2016/2017): Redpoint 7b (Sautanz)
Late entry this weekend due to spending time in remote locations with primitive internet e.g. my sister's cottage in Norfolk.
M-T: Visiting family in Norfolk
W: Peak with Kelvin. WCJ Cornice, working Incapacity Benefit. Felt utterly ridiculous on the first go, by the fourth go very possible, like it should go in 2 or 3 more attempts. It is more sustained than the 7a's I've done, but not *that* much harder. Thoroughly worthwhile route and an excellent crag, I'll be back here too.
T: Token Trad Day, Staden: Joint Effort, Suscipiat, wimped out of the precarious and scary top groove of The Nails. It struck me that the routes in the HVS-E1 range here appear to get traffic, but the good & formerly much travelled E3s to the left - Paraplege, Wipe Out, Telescopic Demand - are lichenous, grassy and look like nobody has been on them for years. I wanted a physically easier day before more goes on The (New) Proj, but this turned out to be a mistake because ...
F: Rain. Hung out in Hathersage in the morning, went to Rubicon at lunchtime but further up the dale was obviously clagged in and hopeless. Right end of Rubicon was dry so had a play on Small But Perfectly Formed, but had no idea whatsoever what to do on the finishing move.
S-S: Visiting family in Norfolk, Part the Second
Incapacity was encouraging even though I didn't get the tick: 7a+ is clearly within my grasp even on notoriously stiffly graded and difficult to read Peak lime.
-
Did paraplege last year. Think they're done alot it's just north facing