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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Three Nine on August 08, 2015, 08:54:54 pm

Title: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Three Nine on August 08, 2015, 08:54:54 pm
couldnt see this reported on here? Tom did the roof crack thing apparently.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Fiend on August 08, 2015, 09:23:05 pm
Well post some info you chode. Worst new post ever!  :chair:
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Duma on August 08, 2015, 09:23:51 pm
his tweet:

https://twitter.com/TomRandall2/status/630084424265281536 (https://twitter.com/TomRandall2/status/630084424265281536)

looks amazing!:

(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CL6CcbuWIAI-Aef.jpg:large)
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Fiend on August 08, 2015, 09:26:17 pm
Looks rad. I bet conditions are a pain.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Duma on August 10, 2015, 12:48:11 pm
Write up:

https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2015/08/10/the-hartland-roof-crack-project-the-kraken-v13/ (https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2015/08/10/the-hartland-roof-crack-project-the-kraken-v13/)
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Nibile on August 10, 2015, 01:21:38 pm
Great name.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Fiend on August 10, 2015, 10:59:03 pm
 :agree: Great name, good write-up, sounds a true Tommy classic   :punk:

(https://tomrandallclimbing.files.wordpress.com/2015/08/mg_9588_dps.jpg)
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: ferret on August 11, 2015, 08:29:00 am
Effort!  What a Line!
What's the font grade on the crux move?
What YDS grade would you give the while thing?
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: a dense loner on August 11, 2015, 08:34:45 am
Yep that looks incredible, very wrong but incredible!
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Tommy on August 11, 2015, 09:43:33 am
Effort!  What a Line!
What's the font grade on the crux move?
What YDS grade would you give the while thing?

The single crux move? Ugghhh.... no idea! Gondo Crack was around Font 7c+ and this is harder. But maybe someone else would find it easier.

YDS? Gotta be 5.9+ hasn't it? ;-)
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Wood FT on August 11, 2015, 09:53:08 am
well done Tom
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Steamboat Stello on August 11, 2015, 09:56:35 am
Wow this is impressive, seriously good effort!
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: SA Chris on August 11, 2015, 03:08:25 pm
Nice on, that looks silly hard. Did you videoify the ascent?
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: SA Chris on August 11, 2015, 03:10:32 pm
his tweet:

https://twitter.com/TomRandall2/status/630084424265281536 (https://twitter.com/TomRandall2/status/630084424265281536)

looks amazing!:

(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CL6CcbuWIAI-Aef.jpg:large)

Not only that, but the photo is just brilliant too.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: willackers on August 11, 2015, 04:45:27 pm
That looks really good and really hard, good effort!

I bet this stays unrepeated for a very long time, insane.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Sasquatch on August 11, 2015, 05:17:36 pm
 :bow:

Inspring line and inspiring climbing.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Doylo on August 11, 2015, 07:45:53 pm
Effort Tom. Reckon only P-Widdy would be up to the repeat.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Tommy on August 11, 2015, 09:14:39 pm
Nice on, that looks silly hard. Did you videoify the ascent?

Hotaches have been down there with me... Although there's still some more work to be done. Final format of the film is still a little up  in the air. Quick hit 2 min job? 5 min webisode? A more story-like feature?
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Fiend on August 11, 2015, 09:24:31 pm
3 1/2 hours of you lot training on your crack machines, then 45 seconds of actual ascent  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Sasquatch on August 11, 2015, 09:43:14 pm
3 1/2 hours of you lot training on your crack machines, then 45 seconds of actual ascent  :2thumbsup:
Agreed!!
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: willackers on August 11, 2015, 09:47:25 pm
Effort Tom. Reckon only P-Widdy would be up to the repeat.

I was thinking who the potential repeaters (if any) could be, quite a specialist problem.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Tommy on August 12, 2015, 07:40:27 am
3 1/2 hours of you lot training on your crack machines, then 45 seconds of actual ascent  :2thumbsup:

What?!! You're crazy. surely you'd prefer some kind of fancy dress charade? ;-)

Even though it is a bit specialist there are people out there capable. Tom Newberry repeated my All Elements problem and I know The Bransby had a go at it too. Gaz Parry & Stu Littlefair are pretty handy on cracks when they put their minds to it too...
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: turnipturned on August 12, 2015, 09:00:56 am
Effort Tom. Reckon only P-Widdy would be up to the repeat.

I was thinking who the potential repeaters (if any) could be, quite a specialist problem.

Great effort Tom R- that thing is mega. Its been a while since I been in that Cave, is there another crack system in there too?

I recon Tom Newberry could come up with a ridiculous way to climb it. (I seem to remember him saying he didn't use a single jam on All Elements)
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: SA Chris on August 12, 2015, 09:37:12 am
Effort Tom. Reckon only P-Widdy would be up to the repeat.

I was thinking who the potential repeaters (if any) could be, quite a specialist problem.

Such a stellar line, and bid number attached, wonder if it would get any international interest?
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: turnipturned on August 12, 2015, 02:59:21 pm
..
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: granticus on August 12, 2015, 05:00:29 pm
Effort Tom. Reckon only P-Widdy would be up to the repeat.

I was thinking who the potential repeaters (if any) could be, quite a specialist problem.

Great effort Tom R- that thing is mega. Its been a while since I been in that Cave, is there another crack system in there too?

I recon Tom Newberry could come up with a ridiculous way to climb it. (I seem to remember him saying he didn't use a single jam on All Elements)
  Was there on Sunday and witnessed Tommy cranking out some of the moves for some pics. It was very soggy which made it all the more impressive.  :strongbench: Don't think wee Tom Newberry could avoid the jams on this one.  Amazing line and amazingly difficult piece of climbing!
There is the possibility of a line coming out straight from the back of the cave via horizontal climbing through a vague groove/ crack/ weakness.  Would involve knee bars, all kinds of weirdness and is very long!
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: petejh on August 13, 2015, 12:15:50 pm
Nice on, that looks silly hard. Did you videoify the ascent?

Hotaches have been down there with me... Although there's still some more work to be done. Final format of the film is still a little up  in the air. Quick hit 2 min job? 5 min webisode? A more story-like feature?

Could have Periscope'd it.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Tommy on August 13, 2015, 09:32:32 pm

I recon Tom Newberry could come up with a ridiculous way to climb it. (I seem to remember him saying he didn't use a single jam on All Elements)
  Was there on Sunday and witnessed Tommy cranking out some of the moves for some pics. It was very soggy which made it all the more impressive.  :strongbench: Don't think wee Tom Newberry could avoid the jams on this one.  Amazing line and amazingly difficult piece of climbing!
There is the possibility of a line coming out straight from the back of the cave via horizontal climbing through a vague groove/ crack/ weakness.  Would involve knee bars, all kinds of weirdness and is very long!

That crack/groove feature is insane. One of the best I've seen anywhere. Would be very, very hard indeed. Imagine how good it'd look all chalked up! Pinch and kneebar heaven.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: abarro81 on August 13, 2015, 09:38:05 pm
Pinch and kneebar heaven.

Stop the mutha fuckin' press. Do you have to climb part of this 'orrible crack too, or is it just pinchy kneefunkery?
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Tommy on August 13, 2015, 10:16:21 pm
Seriously Alex it's the absolute snizzle. I never tried it as I couldn't see any jams. My guess would be 9a-9b+ or V13-15 at a complete guess. It's very long. Although granted if any of the kneebars were proper rests then the grade would be at the bottom end of those ranges.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: Three Nine on August 14, 2015, 07:04:25 am
Academic. THeres no way his car will make it to Hartland.
Title: Re: Hartland Roof Proj
Post by: jakes on August 15, 2015, 02:39:09 pm
Good effort! I tried this a few years ago - and it is most definitely hard (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8716.msg239389.html#msg239389.

For those of you who have never been to Hartland Quay, it is an amazing feature. Absolutely fantastic that it has been climbed, well done!
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