UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: sxrxg on July 21, 2015, 05:16:55 pm
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The new shoes being shown at the Friedrichshafen Outdoor fair look quite interesting this year with lots of bouldering specific models...
http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fkletterschuhtest.wordpress.com%2Fabout%2F&edit-text=
The La Sportiva Skwama look interesting depending on how they are priced. Also the new Evolv slippers that look like the Jet 7 sound good if they are a softer Nexxo.
So what shoes is everyone excited to try? Has anyone seen any other new models that are coming out?
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Looking forward to seeing if those blue 5:10 shoes will be an effective replacement for the Blancos.
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Good to hear the Front LVapor is now cut and pointed something Egyptian.
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Is he now now stiffer or softened? Anyway, he is now more comfortable!
tee hee
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Some of the most horrible shoes ever made.
I tend to think, just by looking at them, that they will perform worse than present models and will cost more.
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wow a honest review of climbing shoes. Nice change from a certain website where everything is awesome if you sponsor them even if the product is shit
those 5.10 stone masters are ugly as fuck. I wonder how they will look with a curly mustache, bushy beard, leather backpack and fixie bike?
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I LOVE google translate... first chuckle of the morning:
"Neat soft rubber on the top, let anticipation advent"
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Aye, I liked ".. climbing shoe provides a total of sense - I am excited!"
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"Cleavage relieves the foot from pressure" duly noted.
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Some of the most horrible shoes ever made.
I saw the new Sportiva shoes at the show and couldn't help wonder if somebody in the product team thought the new Boral shoes actually looked cool instead of shit and used them as inspiration.
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Those shoes all appear to be made for 19th century Chinese Courtesans...
Or possibly it's the kids range?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Had a few new models on my feet so far. My thoughts are;
- 5.10 Verdon is a 'kind of' replacement for the Blanco. It's definitely stiff but a very different shape unlike any other 5.10 I've tried. It has a narrow toe and probably won't suit those with a 'square' foot shape.
- 5.10 Quantum is a nice shoe and is like a Dragon but with more structure and power and seems very well finished. It's also a bit wider at the ball of the foot.
- La Sportiva Otaki is a Katana for steeper harder stuff in effect. The last is the same but the fairly moderate downturn gives it more 'oomph'.
- La Sportiva Skwama is a bit like a softer Solution with (I think) a better heel. It is nowhere near as soft as the Scarpa Furia and Drago. I thought it felt pretty great.
- Scarpa Vapour Lace - a stiffer lace up version of the Vapour V (obviously). Another possible Blanco alternative.
I'll report back if when I try anything else on.
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How many of us actually care what our rock boots look like?
We only wear them in pretty exclusive company (IE who else ever sees them) - they always get filthy/knackered looking fairly quickly - and often end up smelling of ming after a few weeks.
IE At the crag, I mostly model Scarpa's instinct range (pour l'homme) stylishly fashioned in bright orange and deepest black. But you wouldn't catch me wearing orange shoes anywhere else duck...
Wassdaproblem eh?
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Looks like someone has a new sponsor (seems like a vaguely sensible place to post this)
https://twitter.com/moonclimbing/status/623786063002247168
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CKgiHi2WcAAr0GC.jpg:large)
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How many of us actually care what our rock boots look like?
:wave:
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It's funny when a non-climber takes a look at your climbing shoes and comments on how ridiculous they look. I'd almost forgot.
Then I think back to circa five years ago when I walked into a climbing shop to buy my first pair and the shelves were littered with shoes in yellow, orange, pink, teal, etc. I remember convincing myself that the Evolv Defy was the comfiest one (it wasn't) because they were nice and plain and black.
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those 5.10 stone masters are ugly as fuck. I wonder how they will look with a curly mustache, bushy beard, leather backpack and fixie bike?
Seen at the wall last week: full beard, short dreads, lederhosen (but no beer in the hand, back around)
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Had a few new models on my feet so far. My thoughts are;
- La Sportiva Otaki is a Katana for steeper harder stuff in effect. The last is the same but the fairly moderate downturn gives it more 'oomph'.
Sounds like a very similar niche to the Miura VCS - which is essentially a down-turned and pointy version of the Katana (or, as the name indicates, a velcro version of the Miura lace-up - albeit one that holds the down-turn better than the original).
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those 5.10 stone masters are ugly as fuck. I wonder how they will look with a curly mustache, bushy beard, leather backpack and fixie bike?
Seen at the wall last week: full beard, short dreads, lederhosen (but no beer in the hand, back around)
Please some one photo shop these pictures together
(https://kletterschuhtest.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/five-ten-stoneman_rental_va.jpg?w=640&h=427)
(http://cdn.trendhunterstatic.com/thumbs/carlos-diez-fall-winter-2012.jpeg)
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Had a few new models on my feet so far. My thoughts are;
- La Sportiva Otaki is a Katana for steeper harder stuff in effect. The last is the same but the fairly moderate downturn gives it more 'oomph'.
Sounds like a very similar niche to the Miura VCS - which is essentially a down-turned and pointy version of the Katana (or, as the name indicates, a velcro version of the Miura lace-up - albeit one that holds the down-turn better than the original).
The Miura VS last is a lot more asymmetric than the Katana last and actually not that similar to the Miura lace - it's always been slightly mis-named. The Otaki is more similar to the Katana Lace (no shit) which now gives you a choice of lace or Velcro in very similar lasts, both with a moderate downturn but fairly straight last.
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I've never tried on the Katana lace-up - it looked to me very different to the Katana velcro - much more aggressive (even more so than either of the Miura models). Presumably, from what you say, I am mistaken and the Katana lace-up and new Otaki are both fit similar to the Katana velcro - only a little more down-turned (i.e. a bit like a less asymmetric Miura VCS, or a more downturned Muira lace-up)
.... my head hurts... all this is a bit like dancing about architecture....let's face it, the only way of assessing these things is feet first so to speak...
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Looking forward to seeing if those blue 5:10 shoes will be an effective replacement for the Blancos.
Tried some of these on the other day. My guess is yes. They felt like a stiffer old pink anasazi.
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YYFY!
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:2thumbsup:
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7525 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7525)
Unforunately I don't have time to embed the videos but there's a good set of summary videos of the new shoes coming out done by the ukc team, including a video on the 5.10 Verdon.
Looks like they've butchered the Quantum, seems strange that they've even kept the same name. The Boreal Mutant actually looks quite good. Interesting that they decided to do jet7 style toehooking rubber. I quite liked it but it wasn't very durable, much prefer the toerubber on the instinct VS.
Looking forward to trying all of them on as it's always good to have new shoe options but some of the RRPs are alarming.
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I did a short test of the Verdon this summer and liked it quite a lot. It will be the only shoe I'll bring to Taghia. I usually climb in Miura.
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Interesting "news" about male/female versions coming off one of these videos https://vimeo.com/134312388 (https://vimeo.com/134312388)
Useful to know if someone likes their shoes a little softer/harder
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What's the bullshit with male/female versions manufacturers are insisting on ?
I wish they'd concentrate on just making good shoes.
Are men's and women's feet really that different? I've never seen two climbers with the same shaped feet as it is
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You should watch the vid rodma - that's exactly what pietro says. Sportiva's men's/women's shoes differ in stiffness and rubber, not shape.
Makes sense to me, but I wish they'd split it by size and not by male/female.
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Think this is the way they've always done things but if there's no change in the fit then they'd be better off defining the models as soft and stiff (ahem) or something similar. The problem occurs when you're a tall adult male, who is also fairly light (they do exist) or like me you prefer a softer shoe but you can't get the womens model because they don't go up to your size.
Lucky when I used to wear the womens muira they went up to 42, which suited me but not others with bigger feet.
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You should watch the vid rodma - that's exactly what pietro says. Sportiva's men's/women's shoes differ in stiffness and rubber, not shape.
Makes sense to me, but I wish they'd split it by size and not by male/female.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So call them that rather than men's/women's
I hate having tiny feet, too many flagship (men only ) shoes start at a 38. Like the booster s, which is not made for me cos I don't have manly feet.
It's nice to have choice and it'd be great if you could choose the width of heel, thickness of rubber etc. But I appreciate that would cost shoe mfrs a fortune.
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I hate having tiny feet, too many flagship (men only ) shoes start at a 38. Like the booster s, which is not made for me cos I don't have manly feet.
You should aim those toys to the UK distributor rather than the manufacturer. They start them at size 35 apparently http://www.scarpa.net/en/climbing-shoe-booster-s.html (http://www.scarpa.net/en/climbing-shoe-booster-s.html)
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I hate having tiny feet, too many flagship (men only ) shoes start at a 38. Like the booster s, which is not made for me cos I don't have manly feet.
You should aim those toys to the UK distributor rather than the manufacturer. They start them at size 35 apparently http://www.scarpa.net/en/climbing-shoe-booster-s.html (http://www.scarpa.net/en/climbing-shoe-booster-s.html)
That's good news. When they were first out they were only 38 and up. I hadn't checked at all recently :)
I don't care about the UK distributors, they have their own agenda and I'm used to ordering from the mainland for my boostics etc., because in the UK it's 38 and up.
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I did a short test of the Verdon this summer and liked it quite a lot. It will be the only shoe I'll bring to Taghia. I usually climb in Miura.
I was getting excited at the prospect of the Verdons being a replacement for the late, highly lamented Blancos. I was even beginning to accept the vile turquoise colour (come on, this isn't 1992). Then I heard about the pointy toe. Oh dear. These are blue Miuras aren't they?
Did anyone have the faintest idea what the 5.10 rep. was on about describing the new Quantums? He made no sense whatsoever. Are they soft? Are they down-turned? Who are they aimed at? Descriptions elsewhere make them sound a little bit like Galileos, no bad thing at all, but completely unlike the old Quantums.
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These are blue Miuras aren't they?
Blue Miuras is a good description, but maybe better described as the gentleman's Miura.
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Alarm bells started ringing when I heard that there is a plastic midsole. I remember having a pair of Boreal Sprint II that had this that skidded all over the place as there was no give at all which meant they never moulded to the shape of any hold, especially as they only had a thin veneer of rubber on them, I take it this isn't a problem with these jwi?
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Pretty sure that lots of the La Sportiva models have plastic moulded midsoles and they don't seem to hold anyone back.
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Pretty sure that lots of the La Sportiva models have plastic moulded midsoles and they don't seem to hold anyone back.
You could buy some and test them for the good of UKB cha1n, you seem like a chap in need of some more rockboots...... ;)
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Haha, I think I've done my fair share of testing and losing money when selling the rejects on!
Currently all sorted for shoes actually:
Peak Lime - Scarpa Instinct VS. I wanted to not like them but they just work, my only worry is that they will eventually bag out above the toebox as slippers do and become useless. Nice and stiff but still lots of feedback through the midsole for those polished holds.
Horizontal roof stuff - 5.10 Dragon/Team/LS Testarossa. Something soft and tensioned for pulling with the feet.
Indoors (hard stuff)/Grit - The La Sportiva no edge bunch. What can I say, fantastic for smearing and as most indoor holds (even edges) tend to be rounded, they work really well on them. Quite good for toehooks for funky indoor moves and grit aretes.
Indoors Training (foot on campus, aerocap, etc) - 5.10 Hiangle. Generally a pants shoe as they are so rounded at the front but I got them cheap and they are well comfy.
Mini review of some old shoes for you!
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140 sheets for a pair of climbing shoes with no edge... The worlds gone mad!!
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Alarm bells started ringing when I heard that there is a plastic midsole. I remember having a pair of Boreal Sprint II that had this that skidded all over the place as there was no give at all which meant they never moulded to the shape of any hold, especially as they only had a thin veneer of rubber on them, I take it this isn't a problem with these jwi?
I've only used them for thin face climbing.
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Didn't the old green mesa's have something similar ?
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Loads of shoes from different brands have a plastic midsole, some thicker than others, some run all the way to the front of the shoes while others stop just short of the edge. Styx, Magos, Miura VS, Soultions...
I can't be the only one here running shoes into the ground before replacing them, surely :shrug:
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No Lopez you certainly aren't.
I know a lot of more modern shoes have the stiffened midsoles I referred to the Mesa as I think this is the last time 5.10 tried something like this though I could be wrong.
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Has anyone got a pair of Scarpa Furias? How do they size compared to Instinct / Instinct VS / Booster S? I am a 43.5 in Instinct VS but was a 43 in Instinct. Have a pair of Booster S size 44 but they're a tad too big. Thanks!
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Same as the booster S. I love them (except dumb ridge in the heel)
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Talking to Barrans, he's the same size in all his Scarpas. He said the heel ridge is great when hooking a crimp around a vertical arete.
Re the midsoles, they vary a lot from something resembling cardboard, to a sheet of stiff plastic not dissimilar to a credit card (John Arran approved), up to TPU i.e. a flexible sheet of material, which once heated and cooled can be as stiff or soft as the manufacturer chooses. Also much easier to shape and stick in the right place. 5.10 seem to be making a song and dance out of using TPU in the Verdon, so I would guess it's their first shoe using it, whereas Scarpa and Sportiva have been using it for years. Tensioned Rands work best with TPU. This is what P3 is, as well as Scarpas midsole technology. It's the reason Sportiva and Scarpa tend not to flatten out as much over time. Crouch has had his VSs resoled 4 times now I think. Still downturned!
Re the Booster S in small sizes, the UK distributors have them in a 36 here (https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climb/booster-s/). Maybe it's the retailers?
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Same as the booster S. I love them (except dumb ridge in the heel)
The Furias look a bit narrower in the toebox than most other Scarpas, is this the case? If so I'll be pretty tempted to give them a try.
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The Furias look a bit narrower in the toebox than most other Scarpas, is this the case? If so I'll be pretty tempted to give them a try.
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I found them to be narrower than the instincts when I tried them on, so no good for me. They're also really soft (think 5.10 team). I'm also the same size in all my Scarpas!
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They are a tad more narrow than the instinct vs and I thought half a size up felt about right. Didn't like the heel compared to the VS but the soft toe box felt like it would be great.
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I fitted my Furia's the same size as the Instinct VS, but would possibly go down half a size next time. They are very soft, but work very well on the stuff upstairs at Malham. Which is strange for such a shoe. The toe box feels comfier than the VS and they are much more sensitive. The heel works well for me, but I don't use it much...
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Scarpa are bringing out a VS S next year apparently. Same last as the VS but a slightly softer shoe with Grip2 rather than Edge rubber. Sounds like it might be the holy grail (i.e. an Instinct Lace Up level of stiffness but with the VS heel and convenience of velcro).
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Scarpa are bringing out a VS S next year apparently. Same last as the VS but a slightly softer shoe with Grip2 rather than Edge rubber. Sounds like it might be the holy grail (i.e. an Instinct Lace Up level of stiffness but with the VS heel and convenience of velcro).
It can't be as stiff as the Instinct Lace. The stiffness in the Instinct Lace in part comes from the full length outsole, but can't then have the VS heel. It's going to be a softer VS. Not a massive amount, but Grip2 is softer than Edge. The Instinct Lace will be back out in it's new colour scheme) orange is the new and black at some point.
With the Furia, be careful not to size them too small. The rubber used for the rand and toe hooking patch (wrong word, it's much more than just a patch) is super soft. It's possible to push past the sole unit if sized too small.
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The Instinct VS is stiffer than the Instinct Lace. So I don't understand why a VS can't come out at around the same stiffness as the original lace up? :-\
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My laces are stiffer than my VS's. The VS's are great for routes, but not so good for bouldering. Too stiff and not enough feel in the toe. The ideal shoe would be the Stix + a decent heel. Please Scarpa make this shoe :thumbsup:
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Agree that instinct laces are stiffer than the VS. They're also way better in the toebox but the heel is worse. Hopefully the new laces (never knew about this, whoop) use the VS heel and toehooking rubber.
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I've been using instinct vs resoled with grip 2 for the last year and a half... And they are near perfect. Also had a more substantial toe hooking patch added over the big toe on the left once I wore through the original one and it works really well.
Not ready to commit to a new pair just yet, it will be good to see the drago's and new instinct vs when they are released :2thumbsup:
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Tom, the Lace was always supposed to be stiffer than the Velcro. Obviously 2/3 agree :shrug:
Hopefully the new laces (never knew about this, whoop) use the VS heel and toehooking rubber.
It's going to be a full length sole hence can't have the VS's heel.
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It's going to be a full length sole hence can't have the VS's heel.
They could do with doing something with it, even if it's not the same. Why manufacturers don't have a full rubber heel is beyond me. I've had numerous occasions where the instinct lace (guess slipper would have the same issue) would slip off of a slopey heel placement when using the outside of the heel.
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those 5.10 stone masters are ugly as fuck. I wonder how they will look with a curly mustache, bushy beard, leather backpack and fixie bike?
Seen at the wall last week: full beard, short dreads, lederhosen (but no beer in the hand, back around)
Please some one photo shop these pictures together
(http://i.imgur.com/Om43fdo.png)