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the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 06:58:18 pm

Title: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 06:58:18 pm
Disclaimer: I'm not sponsored by anyone in anyway except my wife. 

Short answer:  This stuff is a bit like cheating.  I think it's as big or bigger of a difference than antihydral.  Yes it seems to be worth the cost on this side of the pond as I use FAR less of it, so I'm going through about 1/3 to 1/2 as much chalk as I otherwise would, which offsets the 50% higher cost. 

Long Answer:  I'm generally a sceptic of most things, but after hearing about this stuff non-stop, I decided to give it a whirl.  After all, a bag was about $10, so worst case was a tenner loss.  I got my first bag in Macrh just as I was transitioning off of a campus cycle and into a PE cycle.  I don't do alot of PE, so it was hard for me to judge at the time how much of a difference it made.  It seemed like it worked better, and lasted longer, but I just wasn't really sure. 

In late April I was back on the FB and the difference was obvious.  I wouldn't credit it with making me stronger, but I wasn't having to fuss with a fan or with the humidity or with fighting to keep the skin nice and dry.  Just chalk and go.  Same thing bouldering.  Warming up, I could chalk up once and do about 8-10 problems before even thinking about chalking up. 

In June I've been on the campus board and outside for just a couple of days, and it's been pretty clear that there's a difference.  How much?  Well, there's the rub.  It's chalk.  it won't make you stronger or give you better technique.  What it will do is widen the range of good conditions meaning higher chance of success of less than perfect days.  Better training consistancy meaning it's easier to track progression effectively.  etc. 

I remember when the original metolius superchalk came out, and what a difference it made at the time.  Since then, I feel like the metolius chalk has gotten progressively less and less different from all the rest.  This reminds me of when the superchalk first arrived.  It was distinctly different, and so it this. 

Let me know if you've got any questions.

Modified to add website: http://frictionlabs.com/ (http://frictionlabs.com/)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tomtom on June 23, 2015, 07:00:50 pm
Nice overview Sasq - is this the shizz with a tiny bit of poff in it?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 07:08:29 pm
I don't think so, and I really I hope not.  I think that was what they did to make the superchalk so sticky, which I'd guess is no longer part of it and hence why it's no longer any good :)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Boredboy on June 23, 2015, 07:19:09 pm
Super chalk: AKA the Devils dandruff
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: petejh on June 23, 2015, 07:27:21 pm
Nice one Sasq, the perfect unbiased advert - got me interested enough to buy some. You should ask for some freebies!
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: a dense loner on June 23, 2015, 07:35:53 pm
It's fantastic
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: cheque on June 23, 2015, 07:38:32 pm
Nice overview Sasq - is this the shizz with a tiny bit of poff in it?

Their website (http://frictionlabs.com/chalk-matters#What-is-Chalk) claims it's "The purest chalk out there" so I'd assume not. Apparently it has more magnesium carbonate than calcium carbonate in it and calcium carbonate is bad. I know fuck all about science so won't even try to assess whether this is bullshit or not. Reassuring that it sounds not to have pof in it though.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: fried on June 23, 2015, 07:40:27 pm
It's fantastic

Better be at 50p a tick mark.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: petejh on June 23, 2015, 07:42:02 pm
It's fantastic

I imagined you as a member of the Clean Hand Gang, (Eastern Youth League)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 07:49:59 pm
Nice one Sasq, the perfect unbiased advert - got me interested enough to buy some. You should ask for some freebies!
Nah.  you'd have to give me quite a bit more than a bag of chalk to sell my soul :)

Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tomtom on June 23, 2015, 07:55:37 pm

It's fantastic

Better be at 50p a tick mark.

I'll have to take a separate bag of cheap chalk for ticking.. ;)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 08:00:58 pm
Colored chalk crayons work well for this.  That way you know which ones are yours. 

Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: a dense loner on June 23, 2015, 08:02:22 pm
Good god Pete it wouldn't be the youth league!
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tomtom on June 23, 2015, 08:06:23 pm

Colored chalk crayons work well for this.  That way you know which ones are yours.

:D
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 08:08:42 pm
Colored chalk crayons work well for this.  That way you know which ones are yours.
They come in a nice little box too for easy carrying.  I'm quite surprised they haven't taken off. 

Seriously though, I know someone who did this at the RRG.  He stirred up a hell of a shit storm. 
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Three Nine on June 23, 2015, 09:24:14 pm
Where's selling in the uk please?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: petejh on June 23, 2015, 09:44:35 pm
Good god Pete it wouldn't be the youth league!

Younger than Ken Wilson qualifies.

Does this chalk remain on the rock as well as it stays on sweaty hands?   :-\ :worms:
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 09:45:29 pm
I bought some of that friction labs chalk recently, and figured I'd do a little blind test with some people and do a review, then it turned out that Mountain Boot Co (Scarpa & Edelweiss importer) are importing it, so a review seems like a waste of time as I wouldn't trust it if it were someone else doing it and their sponsor was the importer..

Looks like its available through http://trade.mountainboot.co.uk/ (http://trade.mountainboot.co.uk/) , or will be soon.

Also, this is part of why I did a quick review.  Seemed like there may be interest, and since I'm objective and free of ethical constraints...
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Sasquatch on June 23, 2015, 09:46:20 pm
Good god Pete it wouldn't be the youth league!

Younger than Ken Wilson qualifies.

Does this chalk remain on the rock as well as it stays on sweaty hands?   :-\ :worms:

I don't know.  As I live in a generally wet climate, I'm not too fussed, but that is a very good question. 
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: sjw on June 23, 2015, 10:45:40 pm
Where's selling in the uk please?
Climb Newcastle sell it, although it's not on their site yet
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: TheTwig on June 24, 2015, 03:52:20 am
Which 'size' did you try Sas? Seems it comes in 3 though I imagine it's all the same stuff. I might have to get some, my 'local' wall is insanely hot anytime outside of winter, training is hard enough work without the increased sweat  :-\
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Richie Crouch on June 24, 2015, 07:42:04 am
I've been using the finer grade unicorn dust for the last 3 months and the difference it makes in summer is great. A marked difference in how long your hands stay dry/cling on to holds without sliding about.

As Sasquatch said, the amount of chalk needed is cut right down, which will help offset the financial blow!

The way to go is warming up/brushing/cleaning with cheap block chalk and saving the good shit for redpointing.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tomtom on June 24, 2015, 08:54:48 am
I'm wondering if the impact of the magic chalk depends from person to person?

I'm lucky having hands that don't sweat up much - so I don't need to use that much chalk. However, I know there are folk out there who have to slather layers of liquid chalk before regular chalk to keep things under control - so perhaps it has a greater effect on those with sweatier hands?

For me chalk is generally a choice of what irritates my skin the least... The metoleous and moon chalk used to make my cuticles shrivel and eventually bleed - also seemed to help me get joint splits/problems. So I've settled on the cheapo Simond chalk from Decathlon - as it seems to work fine - and I don't need to hose down my hands immediately after a session to prevent a dermatological Armageddon.

But hey - if this shizz works then great...
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on June 24, 2015, 09:36:17 am
I've been using this recently. Unlike Mr Crouch (and one of the American reviews that I read), I don't particularly notice my hands actually being drier than normal, but they do feel less slippy if that makes sense. Stu briefly tried some of it and I think had a similar response.
Disclaimer: whilst I bought the chalk that I'm using, and would continue to buy it for use on hard attempts (I now take 2 chalk bags to the crag) I then found out that it's imported by mountain boot company who I get free stuff from. Feel free to thus disregard my opinions.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: a dense loner on June 24, 2015, 09:51:04 am
I'm not going to disregard your opinion because you'll get it free, that has nothing to do with me disregarding it  ;)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: psychomansam on June 24, 2015, 09:53:53 am
Friction labs claim to be better because they're 100% Mag Carb, but Moon Dust makes the same claim, so why pay more for Friction labs?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on June 24, 2015, 10:08:19 am
Because the one time I used Moon chalk I was so convinced that my chalk bag was still damp from deep water soloing that I put it the in microwave.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: psychomansam on June 24, 2015, 10:15:02 am
Because the one time I used Moon chalk I was so convinced that my chalk bag was still damp from deep water soloing that I put it the in microwave.

How much does that comment earn you?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on June 24, 2015, 10:16:20 am
A ban from the school room probably
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Wood FT on June 24, 2015, 10:25:37 am
 :lol:
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: moose on June 24, 2015, 10:41:07 am
I've been using this recently. Unlike Mr Crouch (and one of the American reviews that I read), I don't particularly notice my hands actually being drier than normal, but they do feel less slippy if that makes sense. Stu briefly tried some of it and I think had a similar response.

I often get a similar feeling with liquid chalk - especially in humid conditions - slopers feel that little bit less tenuous and skin creeps less ("sticky damp in a bottle").  I've ordered a few sample bags of the Friction Labs stuff (from Climb Newcastle) to investigate how it compares.  At the moment, I'll pay handsomely for any edge - placebo or not (my current project has a last precarious feeling slap for a divot on a slopey top which is preying on my mind!).  I wonder if/when the full size bags will hit these shores - the cost of the big bags direct from the USA is massive - international shipping bumps up the price for a 500g bag to $70 (that's £44, for a bag that would cost around £6 if full of Moon / Metollius / DMM chalk)!
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on June 24, 2015, 10:47:27 am
They had full size bags when I bought it, maybe they've just run out?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: psychomansam on June 24, 2015, 11:23:37 am
I've been using this recently. Unlike Mr Crouch (and one of the American reviews that I read), I don't particularly notice my hands actually being drier than normal, but they do feel less slippy if that makes sense. Stu briefly tried some of it and I think had a similar response.

I often get a similar feeling with liquid chalk - especially in humid conditions - slopers feel that little bit less tenuous and skin creeps less ("sticky damp in a bottle"). 

Liquid chalk probably feels 'stickier' because it is. It tends to have pof in it.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: moose on June 24, 2015, 11:36:40 am
The dry5 stuff I use just lists magnesium carbonate, alcohol , thickener and scent as ingredients - no pof (unless it is regarded as a thickener).
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: dave on June 24, 2015, 11:43:41 am
I had a bottle of the decathlon Simond stuff, don't think that had resin in.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: rodma on June 24, 2015, 12:27:16 pm
surely almost any substance thicker than alcohol could be considererd thickener, so could easily be rosin in there. it might be worth contacting some of the liquid chalk people to get them to specify what the thickener is because we, the caring ukb massif don't want anything other than the correct amount of chalk pollution on our crags.

i have dabbled with making my own liquid chalk in the past and you certainly need something to act as an emulsifier ( I know that's not the right word in this context), or stabiliser or summit like that, if not as a thickener.

Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2015, 12:44:07 pm
emulsifier

Paint? :)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: rodma on June 24, 2015, 12:47:06 pm
emulsifier

Paint? :)

that's the badger  ;D
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: moose on June 24, 2015, 12:48:40 pm
I suspect the "thickener" is the emulsifier / stabiliser - as without it, you would have a bottle of "thin" alcohol with chalky sediment at the bottom, rather than a creamy emulsion.  The stuff doesn't seem to transfer to the rock from the skin at all - never noticed any trace of a tacky residue.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: psychomansam on June 24, 2015, 01:05:12 pm
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: fatneck on June 24, 2015, 03:49:21 pm
Quote from: 8b Crouch
The way to go is warming up/brushing/cleaning with cheap block chalk and saving the good shit for redpointing.

Aha! I did wonder why you'd stopped using the chalk bucket and starting using a baggy of other chalk on Saturday!
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on June 24, 2015, 05:17:43 pm
UKB Bulk buy?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: petejh on June 24, 2015, 06:27:28 pm
I'm in
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: rodma on June 24, 2015, 06:59:24 pm
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257

Yeah pof in different percentages depending on the manufacturer is what I expected. There's a fine line between making your product better than your rival's and pissing off the consumer when they find out what the secret ingredient is. They certainly don't allow liquid chalk at certain Paris walls and this may be why
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SEDur on June 25, 2015, 07:59:21 am
I'm keen for putting into a bulk order. Was thinking about it a couple weeks ago.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: dave on June 25, 2015, 09:02:59 am
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257

Yeah pof in different percentages depending on the manufacturer is what I expected. There's a fine line between making your product better than your rival's and pissing off the consumer when they find out what the secret ingredient is. They certainly don't allow liquid chalk at certain Paris walls and this may be why

I suspect the reason some walls don't allow it is more to do with folk spilling it on the floor, those bottles can tend to over-quirt if you're not careful, and I imagine it's a bugger to get out of carpets etc, and looks a mess. From a point of view of reducing chalk use walls aught to be in favour of it.

I also suspect the reason some resin is in there in such a negligible quantity is its more to do with getting the chalk to stick to your hands than anything. If its was designed to actually make your hands sticky then it fails miserably.

It does what it does - sticks a fine base layer of chalk onto the skin, and in my experience nothing more. Any perception by folk of it making hands sticky I can only assume comes from not letting it dry fully before climbing.

There's clearly a huge difference between using a pof rag, and using liquid chalk with a miniscule amount of resin in with a lack of any tangible adhesive properties (and hence no real cheating effect, and no pof-style detrimental impact on the rock surface). If folk are twitchy about using any product which contains the sticky excretion from trees then I look forward to everyone renouncing use of rubber-soled rock shoes.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on June 25, 2015, 09:05:35 am
Isn't it all synthetic rubber now?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: dave on June 25, 2015, 09:17:44 am
Isn't it all synthetic rubber now?

No idea, I'm not a rubber expert. The rest of the points still stand though.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: psychomansam on June 25, 2015, 09:34:33 am
I questioned DMM on the issue a couple of years ago, after another thread on here:
Hi *****,
Apologies for the delay.
The DMM liquid chalk contains between 1 and 5% Colophonium (we can't give you the exact percentage).
It is used to for improving the drying.
Matt
******* **********
DMM International Ltd. Llanberis, Gwynedd, LL55 4EL | tel. +44(0)1286 872 222 | fax +44(0)1286 872 090

************@dmmwales.com | www.dmmwales.com

Registered in Wales number 2040257

Yeah pof in different percentages depending on the manufacturer is what I expected. There's a fine line between making your product better than your rival's and pissing off the consumer when they find out what the secret ingredient is. They certainly don't allow liquid chalk at certain Paris walls and this may be why

I suspect the reason some walls don't allow it is more to do with folk spilling it on the floor, those bottles can tend to over-quirt if you're not careful, and I imagine it's a bugger to get out of carpets etc, and looks a mess. From a point of view of reducing chalk use walls aught to be in favour of it.

I also suspect the reason some resin is in there in such a negligible quantity is its more to do with getting the chalk to stick to your hands than anything. If its was designed to actually make your hands sticky then it fails miserably.

It does what it does - sticks a fine base layer of chalk onto the skin, and in my experience nothing more. Any perception by folk of it making hands sticky I can only assume comes from not letting it dry fully before climbing.

There's clearly a huge difference between using a pof rag, and using liquid chalk with a miniscule amount of resin in with a lack of any tangible adhesive properties (and hence no real cheating effect, and no pof-style detrimental impact on the rock surface). If folk are twitchy about using any product which contains the sticky excretion from trees then I look forward to everyone renouncing use of rubber-soled rock shoes.

http://rvproj.com/2012/11/30/a-review-of-liquid-grip-the-new-liquid-chalk/#sthash.k7aOj7pU.dpbs

If it sticks to your hands, then it stand to reason that it'll stick into the grain of the rock as well.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: a dense loner on June 25, 2015, 09:51:14 am
Don't use it then
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: dave on June 25, 2015, 09:54:30 am
I'm not convinced. That review is presumably the guy using JUST the liquid stuff, whereas pragmatically most real-life use will be with the liquid stuff as a base layer with a light normal chalking on top. It should actually reduce the amount of chalk on the rock.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: psychomansam on June 25, 2015, 10:30:36 am
I'm not convinced. That review is presumably the guy using JUST the liquid stuff, whereas pragmatically most real-life use will be with the liquid stuff as a base layer with a light normal chalking on top. It should actually reduce the amount of chalk on the rock.

I think his point was that it reduced the amount of chalk on the rock, but increased the amount of chalk in the rock, so to speak.

I expect its currently a minimal problem. But there's no regulation or publication of the amount of resin being used in different products. There's been no rigorous testing. And chalk use may change. I've certainly seen a couple of people chalking exclusively with liquid chalk. If his test is accurate, then even just one of these people working a problem could affect the rock negatively.
You don't need to use pof in liquid chalk. We know it causes problems. Why is it being used? I certainly won't be buying any unless I'm clear its pof-free.

Might be worth noting I've also seen a product for sale which is a mix of (dry, standard) chalk and pof. Perfect.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on June 25, 2015, 10:51:17 am
Isn't it all synthetic rubber now?

No idea, I'm not a rubber expert. The rest of the points still stand though.

I know, I'm just being a pedant/dick.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: dave on June 25, 2015, 11:18:55 am
I'm not convinced. That review is presumably the guy using JUST the liquid stuff, whereas pragmatically most real-life use will be with the liquid stuff as a base layer with a light normal chalking on top. It should actually reduce the amount of chalk on the rock.

I think his point was that it reduced the amount of chalk on the rock, but increased the amount of chalk in the rock, so to speak.

I expect its currently a minimal problem. But there's no regulation or publication of the amount of resin being used in different products. There's been no rigorous testing. And chalk use may change. I've certainly seen a couple of people chalking exclusively with liquid chalk. If his test is accurate, then even just one of these people working a problem could affect the rock negatively.
You don't need to use pof in liquid chalk. We know it causes problems. Why is it being used? I certainly won't be buying any unless I'm clear its pof-free.

Guessing its a cheap thickener, readily available, something like that? The cynic in me half expects most liquid chalk type products to be accidental offshoots from existing products from outside of climbing, like something already produced for engineering purposes or something like that!
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: lagerstarfish on June 25, 2015, 12:00:22 pm
byproduct from the animal husbandry industry, innit?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Drew on August 12, 2015, 02:14:51 pm
Friction labs claim to be better because they're 100% Mag Carb, but Moon Dust makes the same claim, so why pay more for Friction labs?

Ummmm... I don't think Friction Labs are claiming 100%. In fact they're outright not. They're stating around 75% MgCO3, where most others are around 10-40% the rest being mostly CaCO3, plus a few other elements. If you're interested there's a podcast somewhere where the two guys say that they take the same base material (Dolomite), but they treat it to remove as much CaCO3 as possible. I think Moondust is just lying.

http://frictionlabs.com/pages/the-science?view=the-science

Also, I believe SuperChalk's drying agent isn't pof, but is silica. Less harmful to the rock, more harmful to you.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on August 17, 2015, 10:40:22 am
Now available in UK.

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/friction_labs_chalk.htm

Might try some when my Superchalk runs out / people post glowing reports
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on September 01, 2015, 04:13:55 pm
Any glowing reports??
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: T_B on September 01, 2015, 05:17:01 pm
I've been using some for the past month, but only indoors and on limestone and generally in not great conditions. It does seem to stay on your fingers for longer than other chalk, but I haven't noticed any other benefits really. So, maybe useful on some desperate redpoint or long boulder where you can't chalk up?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Muenchener on September 01, 2015, 10:35:02 pm
I hadn't realised that climbing chalk had so much actual chalk (calcium carbonate) in it. What would be wrong with just buying pharmaceutical magnesium carbonate from a chemist like we used to do bitd?

I presume that's reasonably pure MgCO3. Naively perhaps.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: mrjonathanr on September 01, 2015, 10:52:58 pm
Didn't it have much higher water of crystallisation content?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Duncan campbell on September 01, 2015, 11:53:21 pm
I used some of a Mates for a session on the hardest route I've ever tried (now done) and I don't feel it made any difference (I didn't do it that day) we used the gold one and it feels nice and silky ad smooth but I didn't feel like it improved my grip, don't remember the conditions being bad though. Maybe it would be worth it for an onsight of a greasy sea cliff classic?? All you people saving it for those redpoints are mental - you do know you can just have another go don't you?!?!  :smart:
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: petejh on September 02, 2015, 08:03:24 am
My trial pack is still unopened - can't bring myself to use it up.. It's probably a drawback when you're treating chalk like it's too precious to use (and I didn't even pay for mine!)

All you people saving it for those redpoints are mental - you do know you can just have another go don't you?!?!  :smart:

With the high average age on here, for some of us there isn't another go
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: fatneck on September 02, 2015, 08:35:19 am
Had a go with Ste G's the other day but it didn't seem to stick to your hand, thus confidence in it was lacking. I did only have a couple of dips though...
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: T_B on September 02, 2015, 08:44:30 am
You've only got to look at the testimonials on their website (no-one you've ever heard of) to work out it's not a game changer, but nice marketing. At more than 3 times the price of Moon dust, I very much doubt the shops outside of London are going to shift it.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: kelvin on September 02, 2015, 09:04:39 am
I did only have a couple of dips though...

There went a tenner...
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tim palmer on September 02, 2015, 01:01:38 pm
used it a bit,  didn't seem to make much difference on redpoint (but did feel nice and dry when chalking up on the ground). 
I did think that it utterly cakes the rock so if you are using small friction dependent holds you really need to brush them between goes (which is a bit of a pain if you have to bounce up the rope to get back on the rock).
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: sxrxg on September 03, 2015, 03:05:27 pm
I have used some of this stuff recently and haven't found it to make any real difference over block chalk. It has got me thinking about chalk now though and I was wondering what other chalk people would or would not recommend.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tomtom on September 03, 2015, 03:17:47 pm
Personally, I go with the chalk thats kindest to my hands (they all seem to work as the same for me climbing wise) - which is the simond stuff from Decathlon.. I am lucky though in not having sweaty hands ~ so primo chalk might be less of an issue for me..
TT
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Kingy on September 03, 2015, 09:53:59 pm
Yes the Simond chalk from Decathlon gets my vote. Its pretty cheap and seems a nice compromise between superchalk type products which can promote skin splits and block chalk, which for me is not grippy enough
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on September 04, 2015, 10:53:45 am
Superchalk is my default, although I now use the friction labs stuff for redpoint goes and hard onsights.
Standard block chalk is ok but superchalk is drier. Edelweiss stuff is quite good. Moon stuff I had some once and hated it, felt like flower and like it was damp, never bought it since.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on September 04, 2015, 12:10:40 pm
I like Superchalk too, i don't climb often enough for it to do damage to my hands, esp if I balm up after each session.

(I was going to make a lame flower/flour related pun, but can't be hooped)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on September 04, 2015, 12:51:18 pm
My bad on the spelling. Rather disappointed in myself actually!  :spank:
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Richie Crouch on September 05, 2015, 07:42:19 am
From what I've been using a lot of recently, I still find the friction labs better than standard block chalk but only marginally better than beta chalk. Those little dense beta blocks are great value and definitely keep sweaty fingers dry.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2015, 10:07:41 pm
Those little dense beta blocks

Does Dense make them?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tomtom on September 07, 2015, 10:28:19 am
Those little dense beta blocks

Does Dense make them?

Whilst sat on the can watching climbing vids..
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: T_B on October 27, 2015, 11:41:17 am
Update.

I've been using the Friction Labs chalk for 3 months now. In August when it was hot, I was pretty sceptical and didn't notice much if any difference compared to other chalk, but now I'm pretty convinced about the marginal gains. I've used it only on Lime and a few times on grit in decent conditions. If I was to put a percentage on it, I'd probably say 1% better than others. So not much, but enough for me to buy it again.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on October 27, 2015, 12:29:32 pm
So not much, but enough for me to buy it again.

That was basically my conclusion too
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: JackAus on April 02, 2016, 12:28:32 am
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/frictionlabs-chalk-lots-of-false-statements-in-their-website-i-would-not-trust-them/111741582
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Footwork on April 02, 2016, 12:34:03 am
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/frictionlabs-chalk-lots-of-false-statements-in-their-website-i-would-not-trust-them/111741582

So it turns out you have to pay Frictionlabs to become an ambassador?...   :lol:
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: andy_e on April 02, 2016, 12:43:02 am
Interesting! EDX may not pick up drying agents such as silica gels which may not be evenly distributed throughout a sample. Best run it through XRD to be sure... although I am sceptical that friction is anything other than snake oil for the vertical generation.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: AndyR on April 02, 2016, 06:22:37 am
Interesting! EDX may not pick up drying agents such as silica gels which may not be evenly distributed throughout a sample. Best run it through XRD to be sure... although I am sceptical that friction is anything other than snake oil for the vertical generation.
How would XRD pick up silica gel?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: andy_e on April 02, 2016, 10:14:04 am
Instead of scanning a small square section in the sample like the SEM does, XRD would analyse a larger sample size wouldn't it?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: petejh on April 02, 2016, 11:47:28 am
Fiction Labs..

Is a 'scanning electron microscope (with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy)' a technical name for 'bullshit detector'?

I want one!
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: tomtom on April 02, 2016, 12:04:15 pm

Fiction Labs..

Is a 'scanning electron microscope (with energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy)' a technical name for 'bullshit detector'?

I want one!

It probably could be if you had some bull faeces against which to compare samples...
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: duncan on April 02, 2016, 01:15:54 pm
I read the mountain project report and I have still no idea what an EDX, EDK or XDR are. It is cool someone is trying to bring some science to this (and calling them out on the pyramid selling scheme).
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: abarro81 on April 02, 2016, 01:34:24 pm
Instead of scanning a small square section in the sample like the SEM does, XRD would analyse a larger sample size wouldn't it?

I presume AndyR may be alluding to the fact that a XRD is used to study crystalline structures (need a periodic nature to the sample) but a quick google says silica gel is amorphous. That said, another quick google makes it look like it does give some signal in XRD.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: andy_e on April 02, 2016, 01:53:00 pm
Ah, I didn't know that. I've never actually used XRD... I'm pretty sure that XRD picks up Opal-A which is amorphous. XRF would be more likely to give you a full rundown of what's in it?
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: masonwoods101 on April 02, 2016, 01:54:27 pm
Im an XRD analyst so could do it but im way to tight to pay for chalk....
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: andy_e on April 02, 2016, 01:56:58 pm
Get some funding off of Moon Dust!
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: masonwoods101 on April 02, 2016, 02:10:27 pm
If moon or metolius will pay me i can run an XRF for the quantitative analysis and an XRD for the phase identities... But im sure they wont.... Not that im gonna persue it...
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: masonwoods101 on April 02, 2016, 02:12:34 pm
The best point that guy had was along the lines of - you can buy pure Mg carbonate. Why would other companies be refining their own from ores and doing a crap job of it. I think the whole better chalk thing is to do with particle size....
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: Mumra on April 02, 2016, 02:20:56 pm
https://mattfordengineering.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/lab06.pdf
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: dave on April 02, 2016, 02:49:23 pm
I would imagine that Fictionlabs chose what they knew what the shittest chalk on the market (this stuff cut with 20% blackboard chalk, which seems not to be the norm)to test theirs in comparison to justify a lot of the marketing hype. Not exactly unheard of in the world of advertising.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: petejh on April 02, 2016, 03:16:26 pm
The take-away seems to be that, in theory, the best chalk for moisture absorption is magnesium carbonate and this can be purchased in bulk and baked in your oven at home to eliminate moisture held within the crystals. Hey presto instant Pixie Dust, just add marketing hype.

Anyone done this?

Various sources of MgCo3, 'food grade' and non. Here's one, give Mr Patel a call for a 20Kg bag:
Mr. Abhyuday Patel(Export Manager)
   +91-7405427970
http://www.osianmcpl.com/technical-l.html

Here be Pixies
(http://www.osianmcpl.com/images/osian-banner.png)
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: AndyR on April 02, 2016, 04:22:32 pm
Instead of scanning a small square section in the sample like the SEM does, XRD would analyse a larger sample size wouldn't it?

I presume AndyR may be alluding to the fact that a XRD is used to study crystalline structures (need a periodic nature to the sample) but a quick google says silica gel is amorphous. That said, another quick google makes it look like it does give some signal in XRD.
Correct.

If you really wanted to know the composition of your chalk, you'd do an acid digestion and run it through an ICPMS.

Was in Wilson's Eastside a few weeks ago and they said they didn't intend to stock the friction labs product, but ended up stocking it and selling a significant amount due to number of people coming in and requesting it.

A fool and his money...
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: remus on April 10, 2016, 10:04:01 am
The take-away seems to be that, in theory, the best chalk for moisture absorption is magnesium carbonate and this can be purchased in bulk and baked in your oven at home to eliminate moisture held within the crystals. Hey presto instant Pixie Dust, just add marketing hype.

Anyone done this?

My mum's a lab technician and had a big bag of magnesium carbonate laying around that she filched for me. I didn't do any oven baking.

Texture of the stuff is kind of strange, very finely ground. Other than that I'd be hard pressed to say there's any difference between other chalk's I've used.
Title: Re: Friction Labs Chalk Review
Post by: JohnM on April 11, 2016, 10:31:03 am
I have been using that friction labs chalk stuff for the past few weeks.  I usually buy Metolius blocks which I have found recently crumble into a very fine talc like substance that almost has a slippery/damp feeling.  I find that the friction labs stuff grips much better onto my fingers and lasts way longer.  I only have to refill my chalk bag once every 2 weeks now whereas before I was going through 2 block of Metolius a week!
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