UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: haydn jones on June 19, 2015, 12:36:07 pm
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Piggy Black not sure on grade harder than Black, Sack & Crack (AKA BSC) so added a grade which makes it 7C
starting from the right hand end jugs. Tricky moves using undercuts and heel hooking on the jugs bring you left into BSC, finish up this.
Blackout again grade who knows, if you can reach the crimp from the foot ledge (you'd need to be more than 6 foot!) it would probably be as low as 7A+. I had to jump. felt hard so giving it 7C.
Start on the large jugs on the right. moving past a lovely pinch and a slot you arrive at a slopey edge for your left hand, from this jump to the sticking out crimp and hold the swing! Finish promptly on the large jugs immediately above.
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topo pic/vid please!
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Ok. Will go back probably satarday if i can find anyone to climb with and document it all on camera. If not maybe mon/tue. Reallly want people to get on blackout. Blowing my own trumpet but i genuinely think its one of the best problems in the peak
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i look forward to it :popcorn:
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Are these things further down the valley from ovine and that next buttress down from it?
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Apparently so (past black and deckout buttress). But i walked past that and all the way to where the crag meets the stream and didnt see anything that looked worth climbing (and im not fussy)? Perhaps its further?
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(http://i.imgur.com/AEQxtNe.jpg)
ned showing his gurn face on an excellent 6C+ Jon will hopefully remind me of the name as i've forgotten
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(http://i.imgur.com/4VgBsbe.jpg)
1.Black Magic 7B
2.Black, Sack & Crack 7B+
3. Piggy Black 7C
4. Blackout 7A+
did black magic today is really good, dom bridgewood found new beta on blackout with a high right heel hook so you no longer have to dyno hence now 7A+ instead of 7C
would highly recommend the jump way for anyone interested though is good move
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I hope the problems are better than the topo!
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i genuinely think its one of the best problems in the peak
Looking at that topo photo from the safety of my arm chair I can only conclude that you haven't climbed many/any problems in the peak or you were completely out of your mind when writing that.
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Thanks for the topo Haydn, much appreciated
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The 6C+ that Ned is on in the pic is called Bog Standard, the quality is anything but.
Worth a mention that Dave's Black & Deckout 7a+ got a clean and four repeats yesterday. Really excellent highballing. The debris around the base of the tree at the top could do with a bit of a clear out though. It's not a big job but a short bit of rope would be useful.
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Thanks for the topo Haydn, much appreciated
+1. Effort.
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Blackout is a really good problem. Me and Scouse tried it last night (didn't do it); 7a+ seems harsh. Maybe 7b? No easier than say Sheep Shifter.
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Worth a mention that Dave's Black & Deckout 7a+ got a clean and four repeats yesterday. Really excellent highballing. The debris around the base of the tree at the top could do with a bit of a clear out though. It's not a big job but a short bit of rope would be useful.
Glad its getting some traffic. As the saying goes; I genuinely think its one of the best problems in the peak.
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Limestone is never much to look at. But the holds feel perfectly sculpted
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I look forward to the beta vid ;)
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damn just noticed the name black magic is taken by another problem.... hmmm anyone got any suggestions?
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Black Flag
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Black Planet
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Blackula
Black Eye
Fear Of A Black Planet
Black Market
Black & Blue
Black Friday
Black Sheep
Pitch Black
Once You've Had Black There's No Going Back
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Black Power i went with! nice list of names though!
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1wVgvav4eA
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Black by popular demand
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Black by popular demand
Already in use I'm afraid.
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Damn showing my lack of guidebook knowledge there.
Black to the future?
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Always bet on black...
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Black celebration
Black to the future
Black around
Black Sack and Crack?
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Black celebration
Black to the future
Black around
Black Sack and Crack?
The last is already in use on the same buttress!
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Back Slack and Crack
Brack Sack and Clack
Bach Slachan Craic
Blackjack and Cracksack
Back Crack and Slackjack
Flapjack and Slack Black Rackclack
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Black and deck out
Blackout
Black and Decker
Young gifted and black
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Darkinbad the Brightdayler (though strictly speaking it should be to the left of Black Magic).
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Black celebration
Black to the future
Black around
Black Sack and Crack?
The last is already in use on the same buttress!
Oops! RTFM TomTom
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Black by Dope Demand
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Went and checked these out today. Good job Haydn - they felt like ace probs (despite no success from me!)
quote author=cofe link=topic=25966.msg491513#msg491513 date=1435134014]
Blackout is a really good problem. Me and Scouse tried it last night (didn't do it); 7a+ seems harsh. Maybe 7b? No easier than say Sheep Shifter.
[/quote]
Fun problem - I get tantilisingly close but no where near at the same time. High heel method felt desperate for me..
Worth a mention that Dave's Black & Deckout 7a+ got a clean and four repeats yesterday. Really excellent highballing. The debris around the base of the tree at the top could do with a bit of a clear out though. It's not a big job but a short bit of rope would be useful.
I got well stuck into this problem - class line - great bit of rock and too hard for me today!
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Cool beans Tom. Was stuff dry then? Was a bit spoogy yesterday so went to Tor instead.
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Cool beans Tom. Was stuff dry then? Was a bit spoogy yesterday so went to Tor instead.
Mint. All dry. Damp underfoot (and nettles - be careful in shorts and flip flops..) but all gravy.
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Found Dom's sequence on Black Power desperate... I got the good hold with my right, then up to the crimp with my left, heel on and flick for the 'moon' with my right. There's a good hold in the break for the left to then span out right to the finishing jugs
Good finds Haydn
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Found Dom's sequence on Black Power desperate... I got the good hold with my right, then up to the crimp with my left, heel on and flick for the 'moon' with my right. There's a good hold in the break for the left to then span out right to the finishing jugs
Good finds Haydn
So you get the moon with your right and then cross over with the left to the break? (Or is my memory of the problem wack?) I couldn't quite figure out which hand to go for what etc.. On this..
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There's a good bit in the break directly up from the crimp (Dom doesn't use it in that vid)
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Yea i cleaned that pocket in the break out above the moon. Should have thought to use that sequence. It sounds better
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Good finds Haydn Bonjoy
Seeing as Haydn's seems to have forgotten to mention
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Haha! Sorry! Yes. Rather rude of me not to say. :oops:
did you get a chance to try blackout mark?
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Yeh feels OK with that heel out right. Nice holds
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Did blackout yesterday, thought it was fantastic. Big moves off friendly grips. Can't comment on the grade really, no idea! Great moves.