UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Stewart on June 09, 2015, 11:24:15 am
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I'm sure most of you old gits will have covered this time and again but a quick search of hardest problems only brought up worldwide, interestingly someone had suggest Jade for that.
What are the hardest problems currently in the uk? Presuming shadowplay is now fecked or whatever. Not wanting to reopen the Gaskins debate
Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?
Voyager ss?
Natural Method?
The rail at Bowden?
Monk's life still, it's had a few repeats now?
Gut Buster, Leviathan, Pilgrimage and Stamina band come to mind, they are all link-ups however
Thoughts?
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Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?
No. Weak Sam was getting close on Il Pirata but then realised he was using a naughty hold.
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Anyone know how hard the crux move on Monk's Life is meant to be? I heard 8A, is that right?
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Bewilderness.
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That Mike Adams thing on the Eastern Lime??
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Anyone know how hard the crux move on Monk's Life is meant to be? I heard 8A, is that right?
'To me it seems harder than monk life which is roughly a 7C into a 7C+ move (but sharp so go limiting)'
http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/blogs/news/18054640-thinking-hard-and-climbing-less-hard
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I think I know who and what will be posting on this one.
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Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?
No. Weak Sam was getting close on Il Pirata but then realised he was using a naughty hold.
If that is true then it sounds like it isn't worth repeating. Do people really give that much of a shit about eliminates?
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I'd guess Bewilderness or Serenata for problems without any controversy (but I feel like I'm missing something obvious?). Monk life has had quite a few ascents now (Malc, Earl, Gaskins (?), Micky, Nige, Varian). For all the 'easy' sounding breakdown (I've heard a range of grade breakdowns, but all similar to the one Dan gave), it did take Dan a while, but sounds like there's harder things about.
The Rail, maybe. Though Dan said he thought it was gonna be 8A+ at first! Sounds a touch harder than that...
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the Rail seems epic cos you need absolutely perfect Connies to have any chance which is rare.
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Given that a) Ty is a wad who has repeated 8B+ testpieces elsewhere in the world, b) both Moon and McClure had looked at it and c) it faces north, my guess is Smiling Buttress must be up there.
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Have Il Pirata and walk away ss been repeated/confirmed?
No. Weak Sam was getting close on Il Pirata but then realised he was using a naughty hold.
If that is true then it sounds like it isn't worth repeating. Do people really give that much of a shit about eliminates?
Have you been to Peak Lime? :jab:
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Nope :D
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Nope :D
Never bouldered at Almscliff then? :p
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I think eliminates serve a purpose. Locals crags with obvious eliminate walls (Pisa Wall/Angel Face for instance) make fun playgrounds and training tools and keep things interesting. They're hardly all that inspiring though compared to the likes of voyager ss etc.
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have you even seen Il Pirata???? It's got to be the shittest looking problem ever, and the fact that it's an eliminate makes it even shitter plus the fact its only about 1.5" above the ground and in a grotty hole
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have you even seen Il Pirata???? It's got to be the shittest looking problem ever, and the fact that it's an eliminate makes it even shitter plus the fact its only about 1.5" above the ground and in a grotty hole
Is that the one at Trowbarrow on the left of the stone?
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yes I think so. been a long time since I last went
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have you even seen Il Pirata???? It's got to be the shittest looking problem ever, and the fact that it's an eliminate makes it even shitter plus the fact its only about 1.5" above the ground and in a grotty hole
Parisellas:
Eliminate: tick
Shit-looking: tick
Grotty hole: tick
1.5'' above ground: negative, approx 6'5'' above ground.
Classic.
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Green traverse
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Green traverse
Without heals.
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Parisella's is the best polished, grotty, shithole Cave in the world.
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Only because 'Dulas isn't polished..
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Parisella's is the best polished, grotty, shithole Cave in the world.
Intentionally no comma after polished? :)
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[quote auI'dhor=Doylo link=topic=25927.msg490129#msg490129 date=1433873705]
Parisella's is the best polished, grotty, shithole Cave in the world.
[/quote]
No place I'd rather be tho
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:shit: :off: :shit: :chair: :shit: :rtfm: :shit:
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Mike Adams' "Mixed Emotions" at Kay Nest was given a conservative 8b+ I think - looks totally impossible if you don't have shovel hands.
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Don't count if it's in the Moors, Franks.
Didn't you know?
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Mike Adams' "Mixed Emotions" at Kay Nest was given a conservative 8b+ I think - looks totally impossible if you don't have shovel hands.
Do you have experience of looking at other nationally significant 'impossible-looking' problems to be qualified to comment on this problem's improbable qualities? I think not, back around ;)
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haha I'd love to hear about someone else giving that a go. It's a nice line.
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The thing with that problem is sometimes I think it looks really good and then other times I don't
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Good to know that that's all that's stopping you diving in for a swift 2nd ascent
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An hour and half walk is not going to get the hoards queuing up to repeat, good line or not.
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Anyone know how hard the crux move on Monk's Life is meant to be? I heard 8A, is that right?
I recon Monks life is 7c/7c+ into an 8a move with a droppable next move. One of the hardest single moves I have done in the UK.
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Barrows the problems called "mixed emotions" do I have to spell out to you? Don't get annoyed with me just cos Ben Moons climbed harder than you!
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Bewilderness
Monks Life
Voyager Sit
Little women (Might just be me and a height thing, but that things feels so hard to link, way harder than any 8B I have done in the UK)
At the Heart of it All- crazy hard and you always get a tick if you go into that cave
Natural Method
The Rail
Star Power
Gutbuster
Second Coming?
Sky Pilot Highball thing of Dave Mac's
Mixed Emotions
Mike new stuff at Impossible Roof
Belly of the Beast
Traverses
Malc massive traverse at Kyloe (probably wont see any repeats, but has to be one of the most impressive bits of climbing is terms of difficulty in the uK?)
Pedigree Chum?
There are definitely projects out there that are very 'doable' and will be a lot harder than the above!
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...
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At the Heart of it All- crazy hard and you always get a tick if you go into that cave
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Do you mean a tick (https://corefitnessappleby.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/big-tick.jpg)
or a tick? (http://www.tickinfo.com/images/DeerTick2.jpg)
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The pointless biting insect.
Pilgrimage. Despite getting kneebared to feck/cleverly climbed by Barrows, I still think that was super impressive what ever method!
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Didn't Micky run laps on Monk Life?
Oh yeah, found it..... http://marksavagephotography.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/monk-life-gets-15-repeats-in-one.html
Ridiculous.
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Pill Box crimpfest is likely 8B+. Although some don't believe it's been done.
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I look forward to DC doing the first ascent.
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An hour and half walk is not going to get the hoards queuing up to repeat, good line or not.
Hour and a half! Never! Even the really long way is only 45 mins. I ran back in 10 mins the other day - it's really not that bad.
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Pill Box crimpfest is likely 8B+. Although some don't believe it's been done.
The problem with these dubious claims, and particularly the ones that occupy the top spots on the Hardest Problems lists, is that give a warped view of bouldering history and they lie like a fucking great big capping stone on the grave of other talented climbers' honest achievements. Until they are leapfrogged by a future improvement in standards or deleted from the record completely (my preferred option), they prevent those achievements receiving the credit they deserve.
Rant over. For now anyway.
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Gaskins' line on the Pill Box is hard, but maybe not the hardest. Its Font 8a+ into a single move Font 8a+ in my estimation (english 7c move?). I think JG was way out on the grade (8a+?), but my, was he strong (also, had been on a huge dieting binge pre-ascent).
I always thought that the ss to Intense was going to be nails, but Ned crushed that. The Heart of it All is a good contender, The Ramp looks nails/outstanding, low start to The Ace (project obviously) plus most of Mike's new stuff. Maybe Private Idaho is quite hard (ahem ;)), but no one seems to be getting on that (it does leak a bit)..
Wasnt that line that Dave Macloud sent in Scotland (Glen Etive) really hard - 8b+? Loads of stuff really.
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I had always thought that UK hardest problem was Hubble.
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An hour and half walk is not going to get the hoards queuing up to repeat, good line or not.
Hour and a half! Never! Even the really long way is only 45 mins. I ran back in 10 mins the other day - it's really not that bad.
Mike Adams states it was over an hour in his intro to the bouldering guide. So you are running 4 minute miles now, next it will be boxing and here we go again. ;D
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Interesting stuff. It was Ondra's flash that got me thinking.. if he came over and said show me your hardest problem..I wouldn't have a clue which is kinda weird considering I am obsessed with my own climbing.
Obviously horses for courses and all that but it's suprising the number of contenders. Perhaps the controversy over certain harder lines has softened folks interest when it comes to some of the real outstanding lines done more recently. When i say controversy I don't have a clue of course, just going by what is written and insinuated on here and other places.
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Interesting stuff. It was Ondra's flash that got me thinking.. if he came over and said show me your hardest problem..
Crux of Hubble? Been there, not done that.
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You wouldn't want to show Ondra Gaskins problems. They're shit.
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That's not true. Walk Away is a decent problem. Suits tall people good on small holds. I imagine Ondra wouldn't have too much trouble. Also, the Stanworth 8B slab is super impressive, a real stunner.
Interesting how there are so many 8B+ these days that even with all these posts they haven't all been mentioned. Which are hardest? Not many people qualified to comment, and interesting that everybody seems to have their own personal opinion. Obviously gossip spreads - x must be soft, y would be 8C in Switzerland, but it's all just chatter until they get a consensus.
Are UK problems up there with the hardest in the world? Uk climbers have climbed 8C abroad, but only 8B+ on home turf where you would assume they would be able to put more effort into projects...
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You wouldn't want to show Ondra Gaskins problems. They're shit.
Yeah 'cause Terranova (8C+) is a stunning line (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo) (at his local crag).
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Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.
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An hour and half walk is not going to get the hoards queuing up to repeat, good line or not.
Hour and a half! Never! Even the really long way is only 45 mins. I ran back in 10 mins the other day - it's really not that bad.
Mike Adams states it was over an hour in his intro to the bouldering guide. So you are running 4 minute miles now, next it will be boxing and here we go again. ;D
4 minute mile with a bouldering mat, rack and rope - I think it could be done!
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Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.
And yet of all the problems in RMNP he decided to get on bear toss (a traverse into a problem) and white noise (nothing but traverse)
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An hour and half walk is not going to get the hoards queuing up to repeat, good line or not.
Hour and a half! Never! Even the really long way is only 45 mins. I ran back in 10 mins the other day - it's really not that bad.
Mike Adams states it was over an hour in his intro to the bouldering guide. So you are running 4 minute miles now, next it will be boxing and here we go again. ;D
haha! But no, It's really not. It took me a while to find the best way in, but even with a lot of pads it's not over an hour.
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Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.
Ha ha. Tell that to the people who fly to Switzerland and spend time working things like the Magic Wood 'classic' footless eliminate problem, Enterprise in Space. I've seen three with my own eyes.
People at all levels travel and aspire to climb things way worse looking than Walk Away- sadly grades speak louder than quality for a lot of folk. Bar the landing (which is fine with pads) At the Heart of it All is a good problem. Based on seeing some pretty good climbers on it (who've climbed a number of the aforementioned lines), that would get my vote for one of the hardest in the UK.
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Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.
Ha ha. Tell that to the people who fly to Switzerland and spend time working things like the Magic Wood 'classic' footless eliminate problem, Enterprise in Space. I've seen three with my own eyes.
When I googled that I found what may be the world's worst bouldering video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwMLwrdH8lY
Dab. :lol:
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:D I think someone should re-edit that with "oops" bubbles over the dabs, or pixelate the foot at the appropriate moment (like they do in below the belt photo's of Dense)..
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Interesting how there are so many 8B+ these days that even with all these posts they haven't all been mentioned.
According to UKEBI {http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.co.uk - well good site if you like lists} The UK has 23 8B+ and 4 8C's (added a couple that are missed off)
8B+/V14
Second Coming- Repeated by Varian (Thought it was 8B+)
Mixed emotions- Unrepeated (long walk has put off Dense from repeating it)
Dandelion Mind- Repeated a number of times (Improved beta has probably made this top end 8B)
Bewilderness- Unrepeated Varian problem
Tomahawk- Unrepeated (link up by Mike Adams)
Voyager Sit- Unrepeated (crazy this not bee repeated)
Stamina Band PUTP- Repeated by CWP (Blurred between boulder/route)
Serendipity- Repeated a couple of times (some thought 8B, but I think a hold has now broken making it harder again??)
East Coker- Unrepeated (CJD link up in Cave)
Pilgrimage- Repeated using an easier sequence, long boulder/route
Traci Lords Sit- Unrepeated (originally graded 8B?)
Little Women RH- Unrepeated (have no idea where this starts)
Kaizen- Repeated (controversy about the repeater)
At the Heart of it all- Repeated (controversy about the repeater)
Star Power- Unrepeated, most recent addition from Varian (notes it could be 8B)
Leviathan- Unrepeated, Malc= hero
Monks life- repeated several times
The Rail- Unrepeated (could be a hard one to get in condition by the sounds of things)
Gut Buster- Unrepeated? (or did Dav Mac repeat it?)
Seven of Nine- Unrepeated- highball adventure at sky pilot
Big Long Now- Unrepeated- (boulder/route)
Natural Method- Unrepeated Dave mac problem
Soul revolution- Unrepeated Duffy problem (Wicklow, Ireland)
8C/V15
Walk away SS- Unrepeated G for the skins
Shadow Play- Unrepeated (Holds broken off? seems highly unlikely it was climbed in its current state)
Il Pirata- Unrepeated hole in the ground
Senerata- Unrepeated (link up by Mike Adams)
Sorry if I have missed any off however might be a useful list for someone.
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Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.
People at all levels travel and aspire to climb things way worse looking than Walk Away- sadly grades speak louder than quality for a lot of folk. Bar the landing (which is fine with pads) At the Heart of it All is a good problem. Based on seeing some pretty good climbers on it (who've climbed a number of the aforementioned lines), that would get my vote for one of the hardest in the UK.
You've seen the bald liar on it too haven't you ;) people who fly to do worse problems than they'd do at home are fools.
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Btw I know Walk Away is cool. I'm just trying to distance myself from Cattells , Gaskins fanfare so no one else rings me up asking if he's a liar or not.
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Is he a liar?
What is the contention over kaizen and at the heart of it all?
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IIRC they were repeated by strong silent Sam from Blackpool ways and given that he's not prone to publicising stuff there's no evidence... :worms:
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49837
This report says Aaron Tonks witnessed the Kaizen repeat?
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Soul revolution- Unrepeated Duffy problem (Wicklow, Ireland)
<Pedant alert> Ireland isn't in the UK.
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Il Pirata- Unrepeated hole in the ground
This was chalked up on Sunday.. (not heavily..) Though theres about as much ground clearance as if you were trying to crimp your way under a land rover...
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Is he a liar?
What is the contention over kaizen and at the heart of it all?
Swear there is an old thread on here that talked about it, there are believers and doubters. Sam never actually made it clear what he had repeated and what he had not, so therefore there is a question mark next to them!
Il Pirata- Unrepeated hole in the ground
This was chalked up on Sunday.. (not heavily..) Though theres about as much ground clearance as if you were trying to crimp your way under a land rover...
yeah it always seems to be chalked and so does shadow play, guess they don't really get washed of with rain!
Soul revolution- Unrepeated Duffy problem (Wicklow, Ireland)
<Pedant alert> Ireland isn't in the UK.
Meh...... lets call it UK, it looks good!
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I know Micky's done little women, presumably to piss Scott off. Although i'm unaware if this is the same as LW rh.
I'm also convinced that stamina band/putp had a repeat before CWP, coming from Smitton or Ryan?
That list also doesn't contain CWP's belly of the beast so prob needs updating. This was given 8B+ with cheating kneepads, no kneepads a la the f.a. would make this a different proposition.
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[deleted]
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Exactly, you wouldn't fly to them.
Ha ha. Tell that to the people who fly to Switzerland and spend time working things like the Magic Wood 'classic' footless eliminate problem, Enterprise in Space. I've seen three with my own eyes.
When I googled that I found what may be the world's worst bouldering video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwMLwrdH8lY
Dab. :lol:
He absolutely walked that.
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Dave, I'm sure it was you who once said of another dabtastic video "That's just hillwalking with a bad sequence".
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Sounds like something I would say.
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Sounds like something I would say.
Along with the classic "unspeakably bad beta" which I've stolen many a time.
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:worms:
I know Micky's done little women, presumably to piss Scott off. Although i'm unaware if this is the same as LW rh.
I'm also convinced that stamina band/putp had a repeat before CWP, coming from Smitton or Ryan?
That list also doesn't contain CWP's belly of the beast so prob needs updating. This was given 8B+ with cheating kneepads, no kneepads a la the f.a. would make this a different proposition.
Dam it, yeah forgot about Belly of the beast. God knows about Little Women RH.
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SB/PUTP - off the top if my head Gaskins, McClure, Smitton, Sharik something or other from Australia, CWP..
Pads won't really be that relevant for belly of the beast since the kneebar is no hands without a pad. To create a hard link that's not eliminate CWP should have used Nacho's low start to keen as it stays away from the bens roof knee.
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SB/PUTP - off the top if my head Gaskins, McClure, Smitton, Sharik something or other from Australia, CWP..
Pads won't really be that relevant for belly of the beast since the kneebar is no hands without a pad. To create a hard link that's not eliminate CWP should have used Nacho's low start to keen as it stays away from the bens roof knee.
Sharik Walker. :thumbsup:
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Does he still climb do you know? He was a strong mo fo
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Dave, I'm sure it was you who once said of another dabtastic video "That's just hillwalking with a bad sequence".
Found it:
those dabs are so mad its more like hillwalking with a bad sequence rather than climbing.
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Pls don't talk bollocks about knee bars Alex. Doylo showed me your knee bar rest on pilgrimage at the end of rock atrocity
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What are you on about Dense, that Ben's Roof knee has been used and abused without pads for ages. There's 2 obvious ways to do BotB in my opinion - either with the line CWP used, and the kneebar, or going into Nacho's line for Keen Roof Extension (see below), thus avoiding the knee. (There's still a knee in the pod on Keen, and that does need a pad to work well, but it's not a resting knee it's a moving knee.) Doing the CWP line without the knee seems much less appealing than the above 2 options to my mind.
https://vimeo.com/5500421
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What has nachos line got to do with anything? Did cwp do and name BotB for nachos line or for the line he climbed? Fuckin eliminates.
As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?
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I was responding to this:
That list also doesn't contain CWP's belly of the beast so prob needs updating. This was given 8B+ with cheating kneepads, no kneepads a la the f.a. would make this a different proposition.
and pointing out that it's not 'cheating kneepads' that would make the difference (for most people's sequence), it's the elimination of the kneebar, which is perfectly useable without pads (unlike, say, most of the pilgrimage ones). As an aside, I then pointed out that doing CWP's line and eliminating the knee is dumb considering that there's an alternative line, presumably at a similar grade, which would naturally avoid the knee anyway.
As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?
Yeah, me too.
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As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?
Me too...
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Dave, I'm sure it was you who once said of another dabtastic video "That's just hillwalking with a bad sequence".
Found it:
those dabs are so mad its more like hillwalking with a bad sequence rather than climbing.
About a Copley Bros vid IIRC (yes I'm sad)
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As an aside nearly every time I try to move pages I get a blank screen, anyone else?
Me too...
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Does he still climb do you know? He was a strong mo fo
Sure was. Don't think he does anymore. I live with his old climbing partner and he's pretty sure he doesn't.
Sharik still has unrepeated problems here in Syd.
The Corridor at Frontline (Balkans) he gave it V10. It's had one repeat who gave it V12.
Manhattan V12 has only just seen its 2nd ascent from Tom Farrell who said V13.
And The Blackboard... Another V12 that is still waiting for a 2nd ascent.
These are all problems from the mid 2000s. Some of the stories I hear about him just amaze me...