UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: Dolly on May 13, 2015, 03:51:46 pm
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So unless the weather suddenly takes a turn for the worst then I'm off Westside on Friday night to meet an old mate in Clitheroe then a day on Thorn on Saturday.
I know I can search various sites and videos but thought I'd seek the collective wisdom of UKB as to what the "must do" problems are.
All info appreciated thanks
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Mother ship Reconnection is great, I'd say it's the standout problem at the crag but didn't do any of the harder stuff.
Quite a few easier things at that area too, jalepeno arête very good.
And for my Next Trick seems to be popular, thought it was OK but not worth the hype, not sure it'd be worth the stars or the grade elsewhere. Burnt Heather at that buttress is good though and a nice grit feature.
Lovely spot for a day out and lovely rock, I'm sure you'll enjoy it whatever you do.
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For my next trick (7A+) on the first main boulders on the way up... nice warm up slabs/bits there too..
Then I'd head over to the Sea View boulders and have fun losing skin on Mothership Reconnection (7A+).
Monster Minds (7A+) I enjoyed too (though it felt 6C+ with my method) which is kind of between the two if you walk up the hill first then accross..
I've never really got into any of the problems in the Crag area..
The above are all superb and quite different style problems - Motherships better IMHO.
A couple of pads (one large one at a pinch) fine for both...
https://vimeo.com/108717092
https://vimeo.com/119696612
https://vimeo.com/58794109
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From my bits of experience being a low grade punter at Thorn Crag, I really enjoyed Jubilee Tower (5), Burnt Heather (6b) and And For My Next Trick (7A). I also think Elemental (6C) looks like a great feature, but haven't done it!
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Bad Moon is amazing if it's within your grade range
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Bad Moon is amazing if it's within your grade range
And spotter/mat arrangements :)
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Was trying to think what the great looking harder problem is, Bad Moon Rising is the one, looks totally awesome wellies
http://vimeo.com/88567797
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And spotter/mat arrangements :)
We were thinking of Thorn for Saturday.
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As above really Paul. If you head to Monster Minds etc I would thoroughly recommend the big slab half way up the hillside. The 6b slab is brilliant, the 7a(+) leftwards line looks ace and along with Burnt Heather, worth the trek alone...
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This is a nice circuit:
http://vimeo.com/54845754
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Monster Minds (7A+) I enjoyed too (though it felt 6C+ with my method) which is kind of between the two if you walk up the hill first then accross..
Your method being missing out the first tricky move. Haha.
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Shades of Jae is really good. Downhill side of the track, just below the crag boulders.
https://vimeo.com/119697010
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Yes, another vote for that one. I failed on it, but then stupidly failed to go back and finish it off, thinking if Greg hadn't spotted it by now, it would be safe for the future. Wrong! ;D
Private Press 7B+ also looks awesome, a slab to rival anything on grit. Photo on the back of the guidebook. Oh, and it's here too. at the bottom of the page... http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/news-2011/298-the-secret-garden-a-private-press.html A few other lines on that boulder too, so you can get your sexy slab fix at your chosen grade.
And Return of the Fly looks equally impressive, though at 7C+ it's beyond most people's one-visit ticklist.
In the lower grades, Jalepeno Arete 6A+ is a top boulder. The low 7's offer some fun climbing, but no king lines. It doesn't matter though, it's all fine-grained magic-stone climbing in a brilliant spot, and a day out here in good weather is always fantastic.
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Monster Minds (7A+) I enjoyed too (though it felt 6C+ with my method) which is kind of between the two if you walk up the hill first then accross..
Your method being missing out the first tricky move. Haha.
By using the obvious large hold/edge instead... ;)
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Thank you for all the replies and videos.
Might see you there Paul.
All I need to do now is take it easy in The Swan with two necks [size=78%]http://www.swanwithtwonecks.co.uk/ (http://www.swanwithtwonecks.co.uk/)[/size][/size][size=78%] in Pendleton tonight[/size]
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Might text you on Sat - depends on the lie of the land back home etc...
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Smart - I don't suppose we'll be there that early
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Apart from the drive home costing me a(nother) tyre (Nat was driving too so it can't be blamed on me), I had a thoroughly great day up at Thorn; I climbed to the point I was absolutely thrashed and that was without visiting all of the areas. I'm a bit gutted I forgot to try the slab that R-Man linked to and didn't mannge to look at Return of the Fly, is there a video of picture of this?
Dolly seemed a bit less impressed with the place ;D
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I could have sworn there was a beastmaker video somewhere of Return of the Fly but I can't find it anywhere!
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I'm a bit gutted I forgot to try the slab that R-Man linked to and didn't mannge to look at Return of the Fly, is there a video of picture of this?
There's a picture of Return of the Fly in the Rock & Run miniguide here: http://www.rockrun.com/wp/thorn-crag-miniguide/ (http://www.rockrun.com/wp/thorn-crag-miniguide/)
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Dolly seemed a bit less impressed with the place ;D
Did he enjoy the Swan Wi Two Necks a bit much perhaps?
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Its a lovely place and I had a great day. Maybe I expected a bit much. Thanks for all the recommendations. IMO R-man's verdict on the place is spot on.
I did do some very good problems - probably the one I enjoyed most was Elemental. I liked For my Next trick and Jalapeno arete as well.
Swan wi two necks was a bit of a let down really. The beer was just OK. We only had 2 pints then left. The New Buck ( I think its called that and I think its in or near Chatburn) was much better. I was a bit rough but that was due to the Highland Park we had after the pub :) :alky: