UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: mctrials23 on April 09, 2015, 06:08:22 pm
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I'm in Devon for the next week or so and wanted to take the missus out for some nice introductory outdoor sport climbing. I have had a look at some of the guidebooks but 95% of it seems to be trad and most of the sport climbing is well beyond her current level.
Does anyone have any recommendations for areas with sport routes around super easy up to 6a?
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[Ignore me, I read it as Dorset for some reason!]
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I was under the impression that Devon sport starts at 6c.
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[Ignore me, I read it as Dorset for some reason!]
Fool!
(the title may or may not have been dorset for 5 minutes until someone did or did not realise and change it to the right location)
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There is none.
Portland is your best bet at around two hours drive.
(Grinds teeth and mutters under breath).
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I don't have the guide to hand as I'm off on my travels, but I thought there was some easy sport climbing in Cheddar at only 1 1/2 hours or so from Exeter. Not sure whether Easter holidays count as part of the restricted summer season though?
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pitch one of Sunshine http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=193139 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=193139)
Blue Sky: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=232283 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=232283)
Not actually been on either of these, anyone done them? To be honest, even though route choice is limited, I think I would have had a nicer time being introduced to climbing on those routes at a lovely place like Ansteys than I would at most bits of Portland. With the possible exception of Slingshot at Blacknor North which is mega.
Cheddar 6s are mainly horrendous, polished and bouldery. Easter Island might be the best place in Cheddar for less bouldery 5s and 6s, there's even a 4 I believe and it's away from the road with a nicer view than the roadside crags. etc.
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Theres some easy stuff at chudleigh, havent climbed it as I was visiting friends there so I cant vouch for the quality or quantity. Bolts looked shiny though! Doesnt seem to be a mention on the other channel, but im 95% there were at least 2 sport routes, looked 5 at most. They were situated just to the right of where you walk in. Not sure I ever saw a topo for them, but some googling might find it.