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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: dave on July 27, 2004, 09:13:07 am

Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: dave on July 27, 2004, 09:13:07 am: http://curbar.planetfear.com/climbing/news/item.html?id=1452
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Bonjoy on July 27, 2004, 09:25:39 am: Aye, saw the original Coulthard falling off the last move of Ben's Roof t'other week. The girl bears down!
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Doylo on July 27, 2004, 11:30:44 am: whats the official grade of 'bens' these days peak hommes. I thought it was pretty pumpy but was unsure of the grade, 9 or 10?
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Bonjoy on July 27, 2004, 11:50:38 am: Haven't done it but would say it just scrapes 7c+/V10 personally. The Harris reckons 7c/V9 but then he's got everything at the tor super wired and loves sharp crimps, so who knows. How about V9+ :wink:
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Doylo on July 27, 2004, 11:58:18 am: thinking about it, it fits nicely into the v9/10 bracket. I reckon split gradings the way forward, its works well in north wales.
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: dobbin on July 27, 2004, 01:27:35 pm: I'd say defo v10. I think its hard.

But, given that most people think its harder to link PB than it is Bens roof - how hard is PB?
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Bonjoy on July 27, 2004, 01:30:15 pm: I'd have to say PB is a fair bit easier than BR. Powerband middling 7c/V9 Ben's bottom end 7c+/V10.
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: c.j.d. on July 27, 2004, 02:29:01 pm: Nodder flashed this problem a while back - good effort on a nice round and fat v9
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Bonjoy on July 27, 2004, 02:52:49 pm: I'd have to say if Ben's roof is V9 then Jerry's roof being at least a grade easier must be V8!
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: BoulderHog on July 27, 2004, 06:53:34 pm: I just bagged this a week or two ago and must say it gave me quite a bit of trouble so I reckon 7C+. Kept falling off on the hold before the finish jug which gets really annoying, need to work fitness a bit more I think.

It's definitely a power endurance thing, the individual moves aren't particularly hard, maybe tops 7B for the middle crux section, but it's knackering and sharp. Bottom end 7C+.
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Doylo on July 27, 2004, 08:50:22 pm: i fell off the end quite a few times too, exhasperating! some folk think jerry's roof is v8+, are you one of them bonjoy? took me about as long as ben's although its definetely easier.
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: Bonjoy on July 28, 2004, 08:27:04 am: Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
i fell off the end quite a few times too, exhasperating! some folk think jerry's roof is v8+, are you one of them bonjoy? took me about as long as ben's although its definetely easier.

Don't know really. But was just making the point that if you push down the grade of one problem, you end up pushing down the grade of others. As i said its easily a grade easier than Ben's roof so it depends what you give Ben's.
Title: yank hamster-faced hardbody chick goes to the tor
Post by: a dense loner on July 28, 2004, 09:02:25 am: you give bens 7c+, the grade it's been given n the grade we all know it is. so andy thinks it's 7c, of course he does, he's tiny. he won't know them holds are sharp n awful. they become much bigger when you can fist jam on them. i would like to see these mutant midgets downgrade stuff on the eaglestone :lol: plus it's the only 7c+ on some peoples scorecards(http://images.google.com/images?q=tbn:-ctsKhxRNhIJ:www.aadpw.org/conserv/buzz/bee.gif)