UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: cha1n on November 22, 2014, 12:07:27 pm
-
Right then, A2 pulley on the left hand went pop on Monday night but want to try and keep climbing the harder stuff, I'd appreciate it if you could list problems with left hand slopers/open-handable crimps.
Deliverance is a nemesis problem of mine, tempted to go give it another try. I've climbed stuff physically much harder but just can't seem to get this bugger finished...
Just watched some videos and 'Piss' at Higgar Tor looks doable if somewhat boring. Brass Monkeys the other day was pretty open handed on both hands, I'm sure there's tonnes of problems, I've just not climbed much up here yet.
P.S. I blame my injury on the late arrival of good connies, I would have been out on slopers by now instead of dirty limestone crimps. The end.
-
While you're at Higgar try 'the arete' tricky 7A/+ I think Piss might be a bit tweaky for an A2..
Captain Hook?
-
Thanks Tom, start of captain hook looks crimpy though. Zippy's trav would probably be ok but did it a few weeks back.
-
Brad Pit? Depends how you hold that first ledge..
Anything on Peakbouldering.info with Slopey in the name? ;)
-
While you're at Higgar try 'the arete' tricky 7A/+
Taking note that it can be a frustrating bugger
A short lesson in tenacity on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60197592)
-
Where's that video of me not topping it out? ;)
-
Class problem though.. Lagerstarfish can provide beta for pastry based payment ;)
-
Might head up to see if it's dry up there...
-
It can be a slow dryer - soft permeable lower foothold that needs to be dry or it risks eroding... But it's exposed..
-
I find Piss very hard on the tendons, you kind of half crimp the sloper.
-
It was piss wet up there. Burbage North was drying out but it was boiling.
-
Certainly looks like this fits the criteria! A Case of Mistaken Identity, 7B, Stanage (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KMakEmDmfA#)
-
The Peak is a great place to be a local if you're prone to finger injuries. I've spent most of the last 4 years not crimping with my left hand. Do you have a specific grade range you'd be most keen on finding suitable problems in?
-
Preferably pushing my grade range which is 7C and up but it's always good to do classics at lower grades when warming up/down.
-
Famous grouse (standing start) is all openhanded on the left hand. Also bens reverse at Stanage.
-
As a start for 7c's:
Mark's Roof Direct
Heartland
DT's
Mossatrocity
The Terrace
Another Nadin Traverse
Salle Goose
Les Grand Doigts
Ol' Man River (I did this without crimping on my left, but i think it would have been easier by crimping)
Lancaster Bomber (IIRC)
Great White
Hurricane
My Buddy The Apple (on the hard bit. There is some half crimping near the top IIRC)
Domes Sitter
The Brazilian
Pea Crab Shuffle
Leotard Legend (I used a left hand mono crimp on this, but you can pick which finger to use. The same applies to seemingly crimpy stuff on pebbles. You can often avoid bad fingers on these)
Brad Pit
(Courtesy of Jonboy might be OK too, but I haven't done it.)
-
Nice one andy I shall find this very helpful to as I've got a little niggle ciming on in my left hand too
-
Cheers guys, I'll try and work my way through these. Hope my light arrives on tomorrow!