UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: cha1n on June 20, 2014, 09:27:07 am

Title: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: cha1n on June 20, 2014, 09:27:07 am

I injured my A4/C4 pulley about a month ago and on struggling with motivation to do anything. With A2 strains in the past I could still climb open-handed but this injury hurts open and crimped due to its position.

Do you just go core crazy or something? I've never really trained before, just gone climbing and tried hard so switching to doing training ONLY pains me. Currently I've just been hitting Netflix... HARD!

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: Krank on June 20, 2014, 10:02:07 am

i destroyed my flexor tendon and couldnt climb at all for about 8 months, it was horrible, after a few weeks i looked into activities that provided the same mental challenge as bouldering as i was going stir crazy.

i ended up buying a BMX and learnt to ride flatland, it was good fun and provided me with the same head games as bouldering so it was a good replacement.

good luck with your recovery

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: Nibile on June 20, 2014, 10:09:50 am

I'd work into getting good motivation to just train. Without that, every routine is useless.
Set yourself a goal.

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: Moo on June 20, 2014, 10:11:45 am

PS4 or XBOX1 it's the eternal console question.

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: cha1n on June 20, 2014, 10:36:32 am

Thanks for the replies.

I have got a mountain bike and I've never really tried mountain biking properly. Wonder if curling my hands around the handle bars will aggravate my finger though, opening packets of biscuits seems to at the moment!

What feat of strength should I train for, taking into account that I can't work finger strength? I'd quite like to get good at handstands, 1-armers, etc.

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: Krank on June 20, 2014, 10:46:23 am

if you wanna get strong id go for gymnastic feats, levers, planches and handstands ect, i'd start here (https://www.gymnasticbodies.com/forum/)

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: erm, sam on June 20, 2014, 11:51:19 am

http://gymnasticswod.com/progressions (http://gymnasticswod.com/progressions) has some good tutorials on progressions for hand stand push ups and the like.

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: krymson on June 20, 2014, 12:03:44 pm

rings are fun and will get/keep your upper body and core strong.
When you start climbing again, your shoulders will also be bulletproof

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: SA Chris on June 20, 2014, 12:19:23 pm

Quote from: Krank on June 20, 2014, 10:46:23 am

if you wanna get strong id go for gymnastic feats, levers, planches and handstands ect, i'd start here (https://www.gymnasticbodies.com/forum/)

I think your link is to the wrong place Should be here? (http://yogainternational.com/topic/classes?gclid=CPz4vb2qiL8CFfMgtAod0A0Aug)

:)

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: Krank on June 20, 2014, 12:23:24 pm

i know which id choose :strongbench:

(http://s2.hubimg.com/u/4662113_f520.jpg)
 (http://manpacks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/larryyoga.jpg)

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: cha1n on June 20, 2014, 12:27:38 pm

Thanks again!

Annoyingly I have rings but nowhere to hang them from, well nowhere where I'd be able to move freely on them!  :(

Title: Re: Keeping occupied whilst finger is injured - What do you do?
Post by: Krank on June 20, 2014, 12:29:07 pm

if you have a school near by you can use rugby goal posts or a tree