UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Doug on May 13, 2014, 05:43:51 pm
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Hello,
I have recently begun fingerboarding and am wondering what should I be doing in the couple of minutes rest between sets of repeaters. Is there any SCIENCE which says that the body should be rested completely or would it be beneficial to do something such as push ups, core exercises or stretching? Or does it not make any difference?
At home I’m happy to do nothing, but the wall is not filled with such distractions and I feel like I should remain active.
Thanks.
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At home I’m happy to do nothing, but the wall is not filled with such distractions and I feel like I should remain active.
Thanks.
Flirt with the girls.
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would it be beneficial to do something such as push ups, core exercises or stretching?
No, no and no. You could do those afterwards, although repeaters can target core pretty well in themselves. Just stay hydrated, and wander about a bit - gentle lower limb excercise may help your arms / fingers recover. If you feel like you have the oomph to start doing sets of push ups, perhaps you need to make the repeaters harder?
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I do crosswords in between sets of power endurance probs. Keeps me on my toes in case stu littlefellow walks in
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would it be beneficial to do something such as push ups, core exercises or stretching?
No, no and no. You could do those afterwards, although repeaters can target core pretty well in themselves. Just stay hydrated, and wander about a bit - gentle lower limb excercise may help your arms / fingers recover. If you feel like you have the oomph to start doing sets of push ups, perhaps you need to make the repeaters harder?
I know nothing but this work out has press-ups in between...
Metolius Project Board - 10 minute workout (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewnx7dKoxHI#)
I also saw a Daniel Woods video recently of a fingerboard workout where he does press-ups and situps in between, but buggered if I can find it now, might be somewhere in this...
Louder Than Eleven Live: Training with Kris Peters, Justen Sjong, and Daniel Woods (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFCEETZUIxU#ws)
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would it be beneficial to do something such as push ups, core exercises or stretching?
No, no and no. You could do those afterwards, although repeaters can target core pretty well in themselves. Just stay hydrated, and wander about a bit - gentle lower limb excercise may help your arms / fingers recover. If you feel like you have the oomph to start doing sets of push ups, perhaps you need to make the repeaters harder?
+1
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I do my sets in the garage surrounded by bike and usually service something on the bike if I get bored... just have to remember to make sure my hands arent greasy when I jump back on the board, slip slide away. :lol:
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get a chess computer
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would it be beneficial to do something such as push ups, core exercises or stretching?
No, no and no. You could do those afterwards, although repeaters can target core pretty well in themselves. Just stay hydrated, and wander about a bit - gentle lower limb excercise may help your arms / fingers recover. If you feel like you have the oomph to start doing sets of push ups, perhaps you need to make the repeaters harder?
I generally do press ups and crunches/leg raises in between sets. And I do encores generally, rather than straight repeaters. If you're primarily targeting finger strength then how do you 'make the repeaters harder' to the point where you're not able to do leg raises? I purposefully don't add weight because a) I'm already bl**dy heavy and b) I struggle enough to double hand a 15mm edge as it is, for 6 reps at 7 seconds. That said, I do think my repeater sessions have become a bit too 'routine' and I'd be interested in hearing how I might vary them, without getting back into assisted 1 arm locks that always seem to aggravate my elbows.
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I go on UKB. Or look at myself in a mirror and growl.
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If you're primarily targeting finger strength then how do you 'make the repeaters harder' to the point where you're not able to do leg raises?.... I'd be interested in hearing how I might vary them, without getting back into assisted 1 arm locks that always seem to aggravate my elbows.
I always feel pretty tired after a repeater rep/set - so either you're fitter than me or I try harder. They should be utterly desperate, and its possible to tweak the difficulty so that you fail in the last second or two of each minute chunk. This meant that basically every session was different in some small way.
To make them harder:
1. change the structure so that you can use harder holds. e.g. 6 on 4 off, or 5 on 5 off, or combinations of holds to transition. This could mean that you do the first half of a minute with 7 on 3 off, then go down a second (just always write it down!). I also had a session where I would do 5 on 10 off, 5 times which allowed me to use MUCH harder holds.
2. add weight - so what if you're heavy. Add a kg or 2 if its too easy but the next grip type is too hard. I found this really good for making (or at least making it seem like I was making) incremental improvements and for transitioning between holds. Good for forcing improvement.
Write it all down. Exactly when you failed in each set and for how much time, why you failed, conditions etc...
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Cheers Ben. I think I need to get a Beastmaker or add some more wooden edges. At the mo I have a Moon board + 15mm edge, which is pretty limited holds wise.
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I go on UKB. Or look at myself in a mirror and growl.
I heard that you stand on a chair and shout "I'm a winner!"
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I go on UKB. Or look at myself in a mirror and growl.
I heard that you stand on a chair sharks ladder and shout "I'm a winner!"
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I go on UKB. Or look at myself in a mirror and growl.
I heard that you stand on a chair sharks ladder and shout "I'm a wanker!"
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I do my sets in the garage surrounded by bike and usually service something on the bike if I get bored... just have to remember to make sure my hands arent greasy when I jump back on the board, slip slide away. :lol:
I repaired a puncture recently while between sets but normally I just throw some darts but without the couple of pints the pros have lined up
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I go on UKB. Or look at myself in a mirror and growl.
I heard that you stand on a chair sharks ladder and shout "I'm a wanker!"
Nope
(http://www.coogans-run.co.uk/garethcheeseman/i/p7.jpg)
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I repaired a puncture recently while between sets but normally I just throw some darts but without the couple of pints the pros have lined up
Are the pints, throwing darts and then fixing punctures in any way related?
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At home I’m happy to do nothing, but the wall is not filled with such distractions and I feel like I should remain active.
Thanks.
Flirt with the girls.
For some reason that has conjured up the image from the 80s swimming pool rules poster of "No Petting"
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Its the best suggestion so far though.
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Its the best suggestion so far though.
And also the most improbable.
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Its the best suggestion so far though.
And also the most improbable.
unless you're an intense Italian.
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MrsTT baulked at the idea of being flirted at between deadhangs. I interpreted that from the grunt of derision and the turning up of the volume of whatever period costume vampire WW1 drama she was watching ;)
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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I'm really fascinated that people are too knackered to do a set of pressups or a bit of running/leg work between repeater sets. What part of it feels too hard? I'm very curious as I do mine to failure, but certainly can fit a set of pressups or leg lifts in he 3-4 minutes in between repeaters.
Actually, based on my records I find that I perform far better on my repeaters with a short hard run in between sets. I have a .3 mile loop that I do with a short easy jog, a hard minute run, then an easy jog to finish the lap around the block, then another hang set. My theory has been that the running increases the blood flow, allowing for improved recovery between sets. Granted I'm likely fitter cardio-wise than many on here (generally running 20-30mi a week), but I know from the powerclub posts that there are certainly others as fit.
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The default Beastmaker rest time between sets is 2 and a half minutes, if people are resting for different lengths of time this might explain the differences!
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I like Nibile's answer the best. Unfortunately, single girls are generally in short supply at the Foundry, so I usually resort flirting with Stu.
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I find the 2.5 minutes too short. By lengthening it to 3-4 minutes I perform better on the next sets. As the focus is on Quality, I figure this is ther better way to go.
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I find the 2.5 minutes too short. By lengthening it to 3-4 minutes I perform better on the next sets. As the focus is on Quality, I figure this is ther better way to go.
Hence why you have so much energy in-between... Most people do repeaters with quality rests of 2.5 minutes. Not faffing around running, press ups, etc etc.
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I find I do better with 4 minutes of doing NOTHING rather than 2.5 of doing NOTHING. I also find my performance is even better with I run in between sets. so 4+run > 4 > 2.5 for me.
I wouldn't recommend it for everyone, but I've found that for me that gets the best performance/quality session on the FB.
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I like Nibile's answer the best. Unfortunately, single girls are generally in short supply at the Foundry, so I usually resort flirting with Stu.
I never spoke about SINGLE girls... :shrug:
P.s. Congrats for the onsights!
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I like Nibile's answer the best. Unfortunately, single girls are generally in short supply at the Foundry, so I usually resort flirting with Stu.
That blog post makes more sense now. :-*
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Nibs, in your use of Single - does that mean you flirt with multiple women, or don't differentiate between those in a relationship or not - or both? ;)
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Daft question to ask an Italian tomtom!
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Nibs, being the gentleman that he is, was clearly talking about only flirting with girls who are in the company of other girls. There is always a possibility that women who are on their own might feel uncomfortable with flirting and so he would never do such a thing.
the subtle difference between single (unattached) and single (solitary) might not have been clear to a man who is not a native englsh speaker
obviously, he does not exclude the practice of flirting with more than one or indeed all of the girls in a group
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So if there are no women around is it OK to growl at myself in a mirror?
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you can growl at that photo of me if you like
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Where has this gotten???
Of course I speak about long lost memories, given that I only train at home right now!
@ Tomtom: If there are no girls around I think that you should flirt with Stu.
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I stick by my recommendation of getting a chess computer
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I stick by my recommendation of getting a chess computer
How about a chess computer with a picture of you stuck to one side... as if you were the opponent.. (computer)?
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OK I supose, but it would be nicer for you if you felt you had a chance of winning
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Like flirting with me...
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You're so louche Stu.
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Like flirting with me...
Depends - that'd do if it were just a quick set... but if it were a lengthy session you'd need someone to play hard to get a bit harder. Y'know spin things out a bit more*
* ;)