UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Durbs on April 23, 2014, 01:56:48 pm
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Sooo, this weekend the drama kicks off again :D
(Rather selfishly of them, the first round clashes with my wedding. Humph)
Anyone care to place their early bets for Men's and Women's top 3?
Will Anna ( :wub: ) dominate?
Think I read somewhere Ondra's competing this year....
My predictions (if anyone cares):
Men
1: Adam Ondra (If he's competing)
2: Jan Hojer
3: Kilian - I think his motivation will have peaked and lost interest slightly.
Women:
1: Anna Stohr
2: Shauna
3: Akiyo Noguchi / Pooch
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Hojer is great when the poblems suit his style, but seems to struggle on techy stuff.
1) Anna - brilliant last year, though as well as great performances I think she also had some good luck. She was definitely the best, but I think it might be a bit closer this year.
2) Shauna / Akiyo - come on Shauna!
4) Pooch / Jule - Pooch is a beast, but inconsistent. Jule could scrape in if she gets a good run.
These four seem quite far ahead of the pack - I'd be surprised if there was anyone new in the top four, but who knows...
Harder to call in the men. Ondra isn't competing in China - http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar# (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#)!type=starters&comp=1518
1) Dmitrii - Hard to beat!
2) Rustam / Killian - Both capable of winning, but haven't been as good as Dmitrii recently
4) Sean / Jakob
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I think you've got the women pretty much spot on, I think and hope Shauna will get consistently closer to Anna's results.
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I think this year can be Akiyo Noguchi's year, she was the only one to consistently threaten Anna Stöhr. Juliane Wurm's form seems to be on the rise.
1. Akiyo Noguchi
2. Anna Stöhr.
3. Shauna Coxsey
Outsider: Juliane Wurm
For the men, I don't know exactly how Jakob Schubert's injury is panning out. To me he was the best climber in the world cup circuit last year and I hope he has able to train hard, but he is not on the startlist for Chongqing...
1. Rustam Gelmanov. This will be his year
2. Jan Hojer
3. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet
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Slightly :offtopic: but am I right in thinking Chongqing is 7 hours ahead of us and therefore Finals will be 10am ish?
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Slightly :offtopic: but am I right in thinking Chongqing is 7 hours ahead of us and therefore Finals will be 10am ish?
Think so. This is handy for the world cups...
http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/converter.html (http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/converter.html)
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(Rather selfishly of them, the first round clashes with my wedding. Humph)
Will Anna ( :wub: ) dominate?
This post has the potential to get you in so much trouble, should your girlfriend read it.
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Not really, she agrees...
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
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Not really, she agrees...
:lol:
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Semis here tomorrow...
LIVE IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2014 - Boulder - Semi-Finals - Male/Female (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9X4WM6htcs#ws)
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it says this vid is private. will try ifsc site
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looks like techinical dificulties have been encountered and it's only going to be streamed from IFSC homepage. I also saw this in a report from onbouldering.com :
"Note: The organization in Chongqing is chaotic to say the least." from their report @ http://onbouldering.com/2014-chongqing-bouldering-world-cup-qualifiers/ (http://onbouldering.com/2014-chongqing-bouldering-world-cup-qualifiers/)
Nice couple of vids showing Shauna and Kilian climbing in the quali's too.
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To be fair to chongqing I've not actually seen any decent footage streamed of a climbing comp ever, yet still I watch them
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James Kassay is through to the finals. Qualified in 3rd...
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/q82/s720x720/10253876_10154073763670621_4992444068799026730_n.jpg)
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is everyones feed about 20x30 dpi??
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Yes. Also seems almost full screen.
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so long as its not just me. 1 attempt btwn jule and shauna... and anna looks like she might miss the podium
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Silver again for shauna, more bonuses I think, but one more attempt for her tops than jule.
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No interest? Thought maybe with the crowdfunding stuff more folk might have been following. No one I spoke to at the wall this afternoon even knew it was on either.
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I think there will be more interest in the ones that are on in the evening. I was out climbing rather than watching people climb on my computer!
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I was really interested but I completely miscalculated the start time. It'd be nice if the IFSC could give a 'euro' start time. maybe update some of the pages. Couldn't find the qualifiying results or semi-results.
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I am interested but rather busy this morning. Hoping it gets uploaded for non live viewing sometime soon....
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I think there will be more interest in the ones that are on in the evening. I was out climbing rather than watching people climb on my computer!
fair enough - the weather in Bristol was not conducive to getting out!
I was really interested but I completely miscalculated the start time. It'd be nice if the IFSC could give a 'euro' start time. maybe update some of the pages. Couldn't find the qualifiying results or semi-results.
tbh I was only alerted by the BMC on FB
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Tried to watch a bit in work but the stream was poor.
R.e. Finding results; it is always weirdly in the calendar section as opposed to the results section until the event is complete (afaik). That's how I found the qualifiers and semi results before the final started this morning.
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Good comp, shame about the stream. The match between jule and shauna was great, could have gone either way. dmitrii was super impressive, seemed a level above everyone else, just unlucky on the jumpy problem.
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replays up on Wed according to IFSC on FB
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little write up and some pics here:
http://news.climbing.de/ifsc-boulderworldcup-2014-in-chongqing-jule-wurm-and-jan-hojer-win/ (http://news.climbing.de/ifsc-boulderworldcup-2014-in-chongqing-jule-wurm-and-jan-hojer-win/)
(http://www.climbing.de/fileadmin/img/2014/04/bwc_china/ifsc_bwc_china_2014_04_27_17.jpg)
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R.e. Finding results; it is always weirdly in the calendar section as opposed to the results section until the event is complete (afaik). That's how I found the qualifiers and semi results before the final started this morning.
You can use the app - search for "IFSC boulder 2014" on the iphone store. Pretty good, results in real time, free.
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dmitrii was super impressive, seemed a level above everyone else, just unlucky on the jumpy problem.
He is just about the only climber that is makes it to every finals of world cups, his consistency is unreal... My moneys on him, Hojer got lucky the dividing problem was his style
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IFSC Climbing World Cup - Chongqing 2014 - Boulder Finals Replay (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oPolhvNjF8#ws)
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Nice! Dimitri looked strong, but Hojer topped all problems, what more can you ask? 4 tops in 26 attempts is a bizarre score though...
The germans look strong on weird problems.
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The germans look strong on weird problems.
They are coached by Udo Neuman
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Good comp, but strangely un-atmospheric in some way... (perhaps that was just me?). Maybe it's the outdoors just sucks all the sound away apart from the god-awful music.
Personally not a fan of the dyno for M1 - means everyone racked up lots of attempts on the first problem.
But OMG - Anna not on a podium?! Madness.
Question for Graeme (or anyone else who knows) - 2 comps in China, 1 in Azerbaijan (despite the lack of top climbers from these countries), yet no World Cup rounds in the UK. Why are these destinations chosen? Are they trying to spread the IFSC gospel or is that where the funding is? Just seems strange not to have any rounds here (except the pre-season CWIF), but 2 in China which isn't greatly known for it's bouldering...
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If you don't apply then you don't get chosen. Simples ;D
But you are correct, it is where the money is. China has stacks of cash and has cities bidding to the CMA to host events. Azerbaijan has oil (and it appears the President of the Climbing Federation is the Oil Minister). Sheffield is stoney broke which is why the BBC is at The Works this year.
There was no atmosphere because the Chinese crowds behave differently. When Anna and Akiyo try to rally the crowd the crowd responds for 5 seconds. When someone tops the applause last 5 seconds. It's strange but the athletes are sort of used to it now, it felt really strange 3 years back with 10,000-15,000 people making no noise.
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Is today's final on at 1, it says +5 gmt time it starts at 17:00
I always miss it because of my inability to grasp this simple concept
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I have the same fundamental problem but luckily there's now a timer on the Youtube IFSC page. Starts in 45mins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6RvMSaKdqs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6RvMSaKdqs)
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Excellent cheers.
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Commentators basically admitting that M2 is morpho as shit and short-arses are fucked...
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Didn't realised Pucio had switched to Scarpa.
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What the fucking fuck ??
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Shauna just lost first place for a dab. Total bullshit.
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They can't even say for sure if she did dab because the cameras are so shit, there's been at least two complaints about loose holds and the clock doesn't work.
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It's pretty crap but a dabs a dab. I usually enjoy these live streams but had to endure today's.
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I thought the commentary was better than the last one I saw - but the event looked a bit Heath Robinson..
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I don't mind the commentary just found the camera work a bit frustrating and felt for the climbers with all the mess ups with the timings.
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Dabgate from 1hr 42mins-ish here:
IFSC Climbing World Cup Baku 2014 Replay - Boulder - Finals - Men/Women (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6RvMSaKdqs#ws)
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It's pretty crap but a dabs a dab
Not in a comp it's not unless the rules have changed. It has to be seen to have helped you hold a swing or similar, so minor, even audible scuffs can be let go.
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Not aware of comp rules. If it was outside and I wanted the tick it would be back around. Guess it is pretty harsh when such a minor thing can cause such a difference in results, the rules need to be clear and possibly the setting needs to do its best to eliminate this?
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The commentator seemed to think it wouldn't count as an attempt. It was the first move, it's not like it gave her any advantage. And if the setting had been better it wouldn't have happened, and if the filming had been better we'd at least know for sure if it had happened or not.
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One interview said the matting arrived late which may have impacted on setting.
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Probably, it's not as if the setters were noobs. Sounds like a bit of a shambles all round. People are also saying it was someone in the crowd rather than a judge who called the dab. Only on Twitter and Youtube comments thus far though, that one's yet to be confirmed by a reliable source.
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It's pretty crap but a dabs a dab
Not in a comp it's not unless the rules have changed. It has to be seen to have helped you hold a swing or similar, so minor, even audible scuffs can be let go.
The rules seem pretty clear:
7.9.5
An attempt on a boulder shall be considered unsuccessful if the competitor...
e)Touches the ground with any part of the body
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Good find. Don't really know if it has changed or not.
I just know from being a frustrated competitor(6 plus years ago so easily will have changed ) that I had stepped off when dabbing on a low traverse start on 3 successive attempts and others carried on without penalty. When I questioned the powers that be they said it's was at the judge's (or chief judge's) discretion.
I don't think I've ever read the full rules. I guess Tim hatch would know. You soul be told to stop if you have done Something wrong at the start of the problem, rather than bring allowed to carry on and then told.
I didn't watch the comp so have no idea, but it wouldn't really be a sporting event without someone feeling hard done by.
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Just rewatched that section several times. Very hard to see from the angle, the only thing that indicates a dab is that she flicks her foot up very quickly just after she cut loose - maybe it was the tiniest of dabs and that was her trying to prevent it. It's a pity because although the quoted rules are clear that is the minimum of dabs I've seen.
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Looked like a dab to me. Bad luck.
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The reaction makes it look like a dab on the first go, but her next go she does almost the exact same thing. It's hard to say. If she doesn't get another gold, she'll have every right to feel pretty hard done by.....
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Why are there so few female setters? For bouldering the setters seems to struggle with getting the level just right for the women. Separating the first three on 4/4, 4/5 and 4/5 is hardly ideal (and sometimes the opposite happens : people win with just 2 tops). Female setters would maybe not struggle so much with getting the level right?
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Why are there so few female setters? For bouldering the setters seems to struggle with getting the level just right for the women. Separating the first three on 4/4, 4/5 and 4/5 is hardly ideal (and sometimes the opposite happens : people win with just 2 tops). Female setters would maybe not struggle so much with getting the level right?
Q1 agreed. But the rest ignores the fact that Shauna says quals in China was the best setting she has ever seen in a WC.
Female setters would struggle because there are no female setters at the required level. I don't know why this is and whilst at the BMC I certainly tried to encourage it but they just don't exist in the UK.
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That La Sportiva Legends Only comp that Mellisa la Neve set was one of the better comps I've watched, and I pondered this a bit while watching it. Jimmy Webb said he thought one of the problems was 8B+ and unless I'm mistaken I'm fairly sure Melissa has never climbed 8B+. Could Jacky actually climb all these problems nowadays? Or is that not what you meant by 'level?'
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That La Sportiva Legends Only comp that Mellisa la Neve set was one of the better comps I've watched, and I pondered this a bit while watching it. Jimmy Webb said he thought one of the problems was 8B+ and unless I'm mistaken I'm fairly sure Melissa has never climbed 8B+. Could Jacky actually climb all these problems nowadays? Or is that not what you meant by 'level?'
Good setting can have surprisingly little to do with how strong (more so strong than actually good at climbing) the setter is. I briefly climbed with this guy *namedrop* https://vimeo.com/91557027 once before one of the world cups and we were both struggling on the same 7Aish problem. I think good setting has more to do with having as large as possible experience of different styles and movements, and also knowing the appropriate difficulty for the situation, maybe more so than actually being able to do every move.
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That was my thinking. Evie Cotrulia and Jackie Sequeira both set pretty good. That's two...
(edit: spelt Evie's name wrong.)
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That La Sportiva Legends Only comp that Mellisa la Neve set was one of the better comps I've watched, and I pondered this a bit while watching it. Jimmy Webb said he thought one of the problems was 8B+ and unless I'm mistaken I'm fairly sure Melissa has never climbed 8B+. Could Jacky actually climb all these problems nowadays? Or is that not what you meant by 'level?'
Melissa didn't actually set all of the problems at the Legends. Boulders in World Cups are no where near as hard as in the Legends which is a worked comp.
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I just tried to look at the world rankings on the ifsc website. Doesn't seem to be working. Can I get to them some other way?
I tried here:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/rankings (https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/rankings)
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That Website does my head in, its awful. I can't seem to get the Full Results list link working either?!?
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https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-within-sight-of-gold-in-azerbaijan (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/shauna-coxsey-within-sight-of-gold-in-azerbaijan)
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Try the old website here https://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/?page_name=ranglist
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Boulders in World Cups are no where near as hard as in the Legends which is a worked comp.
I know, that was part of my point/question. Given that climbing world cup level problems is not a requirement for setting them were you saying that in your opinion none of the female setters in the UK (/world) set well enough for world cups?
(I'm not necessarily arguing with this if it is what you're saying, I know what I like climbing but don't consider myself any kind of authority on setting or world cups. Just not sure I understood your post.)
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Try the old website here https://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/?page_name=ranglist
Thanks!
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Boulders in World Cups are no where near as hard as in the Legends which is a worked comp.
I know, that was part of my point/question. Given that climbing world cup level problems is not a requirement for setting them were you saying that in your opinion none of the female setters in the UK (/world) set well enough for world cups?
(I'm not necessarily arguing with this if it is what you're saying, I know what I like climbing but don't consider myself any kind of authority on setting or world cups. Just not sure I understood your post.)
I believe graeme was trying to say; there are qualifications required to set a WC and currently no women have these qualifications. This is what he meant when he said level.
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i'll go one further and say he meant they were shit at setting. for instance for one of the comps at the works the guest setter was none other than alex puchio, the few guys involved threw problems up all day while alex contemplated zen or some shit. in other words she did absolutely nothing, it took her all day to basically do one problem which matt ended up putting all the holds on after the number 2 with her stood there saying "no further, bigger pinch, i'm tired now after all that stress". so in my humble opinion she may be one of the strongest climbers in the world but couldn't set jelly. i've not seen any other women set a problem. the point people make about women setting for women is absurd.
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the other point i was going to make but didn't in the above should have included setting is basically a full time job for people to get good at. you know the difference immediately when even a good setter decided he needed a break and just threw the last couple of holds up. the women that are at the world cups are too busy climbing/training/competing to route set. i don't think many men of that standard set either do they?
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I believe graeme was trying to say; there are qualifications required to set a WC and currently no women have these qualifications. This is what he meant when he said level.
Thanks, I had no idea you need needed a ticket to bolt holds to a wall. That's pretty stupid but explains a lot.
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You don't need a ticket to bolt holds to a wall. You need a ticket to prove to all the other people that have got the ticket that you can do the same work under the same conditions in the same environment. Anyone can bolt holds to a wall not anyone can set a good boulder/route.
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So aside from Dabgate, which no-one wanted to see (even Anna) still think it was a bit of a weak comp.
I really don't want to grumble about something I've not paid to see, but in terms of constructive criticism, there was a lot of room for improvement.
Plus points:
James co-commentating. I really like Dan's commentary, but always find it more interesting with a co-commentator, especially when it's a competitor. Top-stuff, keep it up.
Video feed quality - not the camera-work (obvs) - but having just downloaded it in HD from YouTube, the actual picture quality is great.
Room for improvement:
Camera-work - Not sure what they were filming on, but needed either a wider lens, a couple of steps back, or a filming platform. They seem to be shying away from split-screen so far this season, which is frustrating as when done well it works.
Spectators - Harking back to my earlier question about "Why Azerbaijan?". Obviously you can't dis-regard the funding, but a crowd of 80 people, most of which were probably the competitors ain't great. I gather there's not an indoor wall in Baku, nor apparently any local climbing, so probably not much of a scene there to draw a crowd. Odd. Just felt for the competitors.
Anyhoo - back in Europe this weekend, so hopefully will be back on track. Think a lot of the Youtube comments were overly harsh (as always). Keep up the great job Team IFSC - and come on Shauna!
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The internet was the one stand out amazing thing in Baku, it was 147 Mb upload, Johnny (the Horizon desk johnny) was coming in his pants when he was doing the speed tests. "Better than Korea" was all he could say - apparently Korean internet is the benchmark.
They did build platforms for the cameras as per the requirements, but then they put the boulders on a stage that was higher than the platforms.
The cameramen were a bug problem. They spoke no English so it was impossible to direct them. And then 2 of them disappeared half way through the finals.
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an interesting breakdown of the comp http://thecircuitclimbing.wordpress.com/2014/05/07/baku-2014-the-circuit-review/ (http://thecircuitclimbing.wordpress.com/2014/05/07/baku-2014-the-circuit-review/)
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Looking forward, my call for Gindlewald:
1) Jan - Takes the home advantage
2) Kililan - Not far behind
3) Dimitry
1) Shauna - Riding high off the dab
2) Julia - Home advantage
3) Anna - Pressure
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grindelwald is in switzerland, jan and juliana are german
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3) Anna pressure?
Interesting theory durbs, I don't think she'd know what pressure was unless Barrows sat on her
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1) Jan - Takes the home advantage
2) Julia - Home advantage
Struggling to grasp what home advantage German climbers have over Austrian climbers in Switzerland.
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Grindlewald preview from the circuit:
http://thecircuitclimbing.wordpress.com/2014/05/09/grindelwald-world-cup-preview-2014/ (http://thecircuitclimbing.wordpress.com/2014/05/09/grindelwald-world-cup-preview-2014/)
Semis 0930 uk time, Finals 1530
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Fine geography knowledge there... :wall:
Pressure as in didn't podium in Chongqing, nearly missed gold in Baku. Think she'll be trying extra hard to stamp her authority back on the pack, but might miss and stub her toe.
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Shauna has just finished her quals, currently 1st with 5t9 ahead of Akiyo on 5t13 but Melissa is 4t4 after 4 boulders
Other group the results aren't up to date, 3 tablets not working - have 12 need 10 so both spares plus 1 is down. I'll be at Cole Bros on Tuesday getting replacements. Pooch did P5. Will get them updated soon.
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Looks like all usual suspects incl Shauna and mina through to semis for women. No Brit men through though, plus looks like Sean mcoll and jorg verhoven out.
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Balls, seems like I posted too soon and the girls hadn't finished - mina just missed out in 21st
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Petra and Rustam heroes to zeroes - neither near final places. Usual suspects for the women plus Rebekka Stotz, Shauna in first so looking good in the case of easy finals probs. Two Japanese men in final and looks like one more just off finals too - plus Akiyo - where did they come from? 1530 for finals.
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Tsukuru and Rei are hardly surprise finalist though Durbs.
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Yeah, prob shows my ignorance of the non euros more than anything else
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Kruder showed up late for isolation and won't be in the final...
Schoolboy error???!!!
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Idiot. Shame, he was looking in very good shape.
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Does that mean Shauna will climb on her own?
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No, Rebekka who is first out climbs on her own
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Shauna won! Fuckin amazing!
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With just only one more available attempt to get the gold!!!
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GET IN!!!!
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:punk: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
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Epic. My predictions not too far off either, 2nd and 3rd reversed for both :D So pleased for Shauna
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GRINDELGOLD!!
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Also, super-bonus-points for the organisers - right back on track with overall quality of the event.
No streaming issues, the event flowed really smoothly - top job all round.
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Watched the re-broadcast, seemed really good. Rei on M3 was brilliant.
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No streaming issues, the event flowed really smoothly - top job all round.
I found the 4-way split screen on the semi's to be a bit pants... but apart from that, yes.
Congrats and wow etc. to Shauna. Impressive. :strongbench:
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Men's qualifiers at moment, Ondra looks like he might not make it - 18th with lots more folk to climb. The circuit doesn't seem too impressed with the setting either (comment on fb that app won't let me paste here)
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(comment on fb that app won't let me paste here)
It's an interesting men's qualification round here in Innsbruck. After the near perfect setting of last week we are faced with two distinctly different groups.
In mens A the routes are VERY hard with all the climbers struggling.
In mens B, 4 of the problems are quite soft meaning it comes down to attempts...
On top of that lots of climbers are struggling with the holds taken from the local Tevoli gym. You would expect a competition the caliber of Innsbruck would use new holds.
Still most of the usual suspects are through and tomorrow is another day.
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That's the one, cheers.
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Innsbruck 2014 - Men's Qualifiers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSRCiZUkcNc#ws)
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Thanks for the link :2thumbsup:
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usual suspects all through for girls. looks like Mina LW has good chance of going through too. The mid week redpointing in the frankenjura doesn't seem to have done Melissa Le Neve any harm - through in joint second.
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Innsbruck 2014 - Women's Qualifiers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGM_vxdxWgk#ws)
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So, I assume you're all out enjoying the weather, and so was I till now, so haven't seen video, but some interesting results from the semis:
No Alex or Jule in the girls, and no Jan or Jernej in the boys.
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Enjoyed the semi's Noguchi was very impressive
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Shauna only one to top problem one! No one else even got the bonus, could be handy depending on other probs
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Anyone got a you tube link for the final?
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Will over-caffeinated sugary drink company (http://live.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.tv/events/425/ifsc-boulder-world-cup-2014-Innsbruck/) do?
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The stream doesn't work for me, might just be because I'm on my phone though?
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Take it back, seems to have been an issue with chrome
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Why was I not watching this earlier? Looks great, massive crowd and production values. Melissa pulling some serious shapes, quite a show-woman too. Ondrawad just got told off for not having both feet on the starting hold, pouted, then pissed the problem like it was a casual warm-up. Knife-edge for Shauna :devangel:
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Would be nice to see Akiyo top F4 now that she's no threat to Shauna.
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In! :clap2:
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Melissa ( :wub: :strongbench:) on strength through yoga and badminton:
http://youtu.be/52YSPpqzMuQ (http://youtu.be/52YSPpqzMuQ)
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Cooooxseeeeey! :icon_beerchug:
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Boom! Thought it was all going wrong when Melissa made W4 look doable
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Also, Ondra must be seething! That cost him gold didn't it?
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No, killian still would have won on count back.
Great comp. awesome stuff from shauna. Impressive hip flexibility from ondra. Epic perserverance from rustam.
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How so? Kilian 4t7 4b6, Ondra 4t8 4b6. So if he'd flashed M4, they'd have tied tops, but Adam would have had less tries for his bonus' surely.
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Sorry, you're right, wasn't paying attention to bonuses.
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Does anyone know if there is a replay of the finals available anywhere? The ifsc YouTube channel usually has one however it doesn't seem to be there, wondering if this maybe something to do with over-caffeinated sugary drink company doing the stream?
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Still available at the ifsc site (url says Grindelwald but it's in there)
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/latest-news/item/264-live-ifsc-world-cup-grindelwald-2014 (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/latest-news/item/264-live-ifsc-world-cup-grindelwald-2014)
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Finals available on YouTube from 10:30 Sunday, according to the IFSC Twitter feed.
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We can't wait that long... We've been trying not to see the results!
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If I follow muncheners link from a page ago it lets you watch again on demand?
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Good final that. Obviously awesome for Shauna. Spirited Ondra bollocked it up on the slab then that false started on the final prob. That's comps for I suppose.
Also I notice Tyler Landman is competing for team GB in Toronto, should be interesting.
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Udo Neumann's mid term report
Boulder World Cup 2014 mid term report (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXWcRloAE2g#ws)
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Be interesting to see how Ty gets on in Toronto http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar# (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#)!type=starters&comp=1517
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Is Dimitri not competing in Toronto? Looks like Ty is through to the semis.
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Visa problems apparently.
Shauna and Diane through too.
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky_O3PhskJA (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky_O3PhskJA)
Men's Qualifier vid
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Visa problems apparently.
boo. hope jan doesn't win it and the overall as a result. Do you know if he'll be in Vail?
Shauna and Diane through too.
Go Diane! great result! Where you getting your info - the app on my phone hardly seems to have any of the girls scores on it?
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From the ifsc site, but perhaps I misread it. Looked like they were all done, but is it possible I just saw the running order and they are only just getting going?
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Qualification currently ongoing. Live scoreboard here
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition# (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#)!comp=1517&cat=5
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ok, who is the new super shouty commentator?
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That'll be Ade, he is the boss of Horizon and does a lot of the code as well as occasionally filling in as commentator
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shouty man is okay by me, he says the problems are being solved, for this I like him.
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:sorry:
shouty man is okay by me, he says the problems are being solved, for this I like him.
god that website is crap, what time are the finals on?
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10 uk time IIRC
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10 uk time IIRC
cheers
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I'm a fan of shouty ade. Settling down for the finals now. Really want Sean to win. Cheeky little chap.
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Is it me or are the cameras a bit poorer quality than usual?
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Seem ok to me
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Fuck me, that was pretty awesome from Jan on m1!
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Jan Hojer on P1, bloody hell. :o
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Is it me or are the cameras a bit poorer quality than usual?
Are you just set on a lower quality setting on youtube?
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Commentators did mention one of the cameras getting a lot of chalk blown on to it?
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Jan Hojer on P1, bloody hell. :o
Not bad eh!
Bit soft for the ladies so far, makes up for the semis.
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Gigi- legend!
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Is it me or are the cameras a bit poorer quality than usual?
Are you just set on a lower quality setting on youtube?
haha thanks, been watching it on 360 for ages
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Brilliant result for Shauna - Silver
But particularly brilliant for her in the rankings since it was such an awful one for Anna.
Just a little more of this solid consistency (and no broken legs) and she'll be numero uno lady 2014.
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Nice interview with Shauna from this afternoon
IFSC Climbing World Cup Toronto 2014 - Shauna Coxsey on her current form (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pweTt7_NwT8#ws)
and Sean McColl
IFSC Climbing World Cup Toronto 2014 - Extended Interview with Sean McColl, the complete climber (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMeRbsTM3SQ#ws)
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Another good comp, though I thought that for the women especially the semis were better than the finals. Probably because the problems were harder.
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Another good comp, though I thought that for the women especially the semis were better than the finals. Probably because the problems were harder.
Yeah, good setting for the men, great watching, went up to the line, and the mens and womens last problems were both good, but the first 3 F were just too easy. I'm sure it's a difficult balance to get though. Good to see Akiyo get gold - well deserved win from another consistently impressive climber.
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Brillant performance by Akiyo her technical ability is amazing!!
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Miho is the one to watch. Strong and steady, very young but rising rapidly from nowhere.
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Yeah she looked very good, we need a wc in Japan not Azerbaijan!
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Yes Miho climbed superbly she's only 16 or 17 years old!!
Out of interest who is the guy commentating??
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The Shauna show. (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=ranking&cat=ICC_FB&cup=14_WC)
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Out of interest who is the guy commentating??
Scroll down the thread.
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Well worth staying up late for! Akiyo was super impressive... Hoping Shauna can continue with her impressive form and keep Akiyo off her back!!
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Staying up late? What are you a milkman?
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Staying up late? What are you a milkman?
Probably just Diurnal and non- vampiric.
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Are you insinuating that there's something wrong with not having a reflection? It'll be garlic and crosses next, they don't work you know.
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Urgh, stand in commentator: did not like.
Everything else was top. Bit nervous the women's was going to count back but excellent last problem.
Good to see Pooch back on form and great to see Akiyo get a gold (her first ever?).
Jan is a beast, but think M2 and M1 were pretty morpho.
Will be interesting to see the non-regular yanks in Vail next week.
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
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The thing that struck me was that it didn't look like Shauna knew how to fist bump, she looked terribly British! I thought she was going to leave the MC hanging.
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Good to see Pooch back on form and great to see Akiyo get a gold (her first ever?).
No. Something like her 14th.
It's just that even though she has still been climbing really well lately, she hasn't won one since Aug 2012.
http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&all=1&person=6326&cat=5#results (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=pstambl&all=1&person=6326&cat=5#results)
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Just watched it, very good, some real nice moments in there. Chon on the ball mantle, Shauna's figure 4, and Miho in general :wub: Not one for those afraid of volume weirdness problems though, jeez!
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Woods, Landman, and Kassay fail to qualify for semis in Vail. Girls climbing now.
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If I've got this right, semis are 1700 BST, Finals 2330 BST
...and I've got to get up at 6 for work tomorrow :slap:
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Woods, Landman, and Kassay fail to qualify for semis in Vail. Girls climbing now.
Shit! Just goes to show the level at which the regular finalists are operating.
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Shauna 9th in quals.
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on now:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/ (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/)
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Shauna just gave up on F2 having got to the penultimate hold and with a minute 40 to go?!
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Well this is going to be f&*king close!
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Assuming the scoreboards ARE actually right for once... Angela Payne touched but didn't hold the finish on F4 and Puccio lost her balance ridiculously and fell off F4 ... so it looks like Shauna's through.
No-one has a fucking clue whether Fischuber has qualified! Database doom.
EDIT: He did. Loads of men with 2/2 tops, so it went to bonuses for positions 4,5,6 with three climbers through with 4/5.
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Looks like she made it, would have been shit to have missed the final for another silly mistake. Feel bad for Alex though, missing the finals at home, having looked so good on everything but F3.
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Shauna just gave up on F2 having got to the penultimate hold and with a minute 40 to go?!
That was weird. Injury niggle maybe?
Made for a tense finish anyway. Shame for Puccio, but perhaps even more for Angela Payne who got so close to doing all four problems only to be thwarted by the final move of the final problem.
Roll on finals...
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Coxsey through by the skin of her teeth!!
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Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!
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Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!
She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.
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Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!
She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.
After 2nd problem all climbers out she was in third place, with some climbers struggling on F2. However she's just failed on F3. Bonus in 2.
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Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!
She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.
After 2nd problem all climbers out she was in third place, with some climbers struggling on F2. However she's just failed on F3. Bonus in 2.
Akiyo continues to dominate, flashing F3.
Oh dear, not Shauna's day! No medal. Currently in 4th but we'll see. 1 flash. Just wasn't looking her usual self today. Maybe the 3k of elevation was giving her issues? Hopefully she'll be on top form again in a couple of weeks for the next round.
Some good setting in this final I thought.
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Oh dear, first out, no top, no bonus. Apparently there's an injury rumour. Don't know but so far she doesn't look as intense as normal. Here's hopin'!
She just hadn't worked out the method on F1. Stohr fell off too, so there's still hope of a medal, though there's some upstarts climbing well. Shauna just flashed F2. Much more like it. Though she gave a grimace while holding the top hold.
After 2nd problem all climbers out she was in third place, with some climbers struggling on F2. However she's just failed on F3. Bonus in 2.
Akiyo continues to dominate, flashing F3.
Oh dear, not Shauna's day! No medal. Currently in 4th but we'll see. 1 flash. Just wasn't looking her usual self today. Maybe the 3k of elevation was giving her issues? Hopefully she'll be on top form again in a couple of weeks for the next round.
Some good setting in this final I thought.
5th place. Akiyo was impressive. I believe Shauna's lead in the rankings will be down to 11 points ahead of Akiyo, with Anna about 45 points behind.
Snoozetime.
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Always interesting just how much difference the altitude seems to make - everyone puffing and panting and only really two good goes possible in 4min.
Good comp. Shame Shauna didn't figure out F1, she would have had a good chance at silver. Akiyo was amazing.
Lots of talk about the young Americans coming through the ranks, but when will Ashima start doing world cups? She's the one to be really excited about. Or nervous if you are a competitor...
Edit: Just googled, she's still only 13, so 3 years to go.
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Great viewing Akiyo was super impressive. Altitude makes a big difference but on a positive note dyno's go further!
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On replay now. Bloody great finals. Good vibes, good co-commentary, and some great problems - I think every problem had one section where competitors managed to come up with two different methods, that was really impressive.
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Excellent semis, good finals. The camera work was good, even the commentary was good in the finals. Even if Andy Lamb was referred to a few times as Andy Earl :thumbsup:.
At this rate ther"ll be nothing to moan about and GraemeA'll have nothing to do.
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Good final! Obviously not the result we were hoping for, but entertaining all the same.
All about Akiyo at the moment.
Shauna didn't seem to be her usual self (based on nothing other than body language) - altitude or tiredness maybe?
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Check out Jeremy Bonder at 1hr11mins, picking at the laminate to create a hold. Naughty boy got stopped and got a yellow card
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Oh that's what he was doing. I thought he was just crimping on a wall-seam.
Not allowed anyway as it's not a start hold surely?
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No, it's not allowed full stop
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No, it's not allowed full stop
It's the solution to about half the slab/vertical problems at the Works. Hope you're not claiming it's out there too!
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I was on about picking at the laminate to use as a hold
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I was on about picking at the laminate to use as a hold
Me too :whistle:
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Oh that's what he was doing. I thought he was just crimping on a wall-seam.
Not allowed anyway as it's not a start hold surely?
Check the previous climber and see how much bare ply has appeared when Jeremy stops - we have a nother vid from a better angle that shows it much better
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Just let me get this right for the sake of my sanity Sam, you're saying half of the slab problems at the works are done by people picking at the laminate so they can pull on the tiny seam they've just made? I haven't seen this once while I've been drinking coffee. I've seen people pulling at the seam at the join of two panels but that's all I can lay claim to. If the probs set like this that's fine but if it's obvious that you're cheating you're doing just that
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Just let me get this right for the sake of my sanity Sam, you're saying half of the slab problems at the works are done by people picking at the laminate so they can pull on the tiny seam they've just made? I haven't seen this once while I've been drinking coffee. I've seen people pulling at the seam at the join of two panels but that's all I can lay claim to. If the probs set like this that's fine but if it's obvious that you're cheating you're doing just that
Although seams, bolt-holes, knackered panels. Amusingly, they specifically referenced the 'local knowledge' holds which had developed when replacing the main slab at one point. But I was exaggerating preposterously. Engage humour. Sanity restored. You can blame the internet for the confusion.
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Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.
Is the coffee still good, Dense?
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Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.
Is the coffee still good, Dense?
Whatever. They're in on the holds too. If they're not supposed to be used, they can be capped. :yes:
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Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.
Is the coffee still good, Dense?
And this is of course the exact opposite of the World Cup rules.
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Bolt holes are fair game, well on the wall, not in the holds of course.
Dmitry Sharafutdinov - The Mono (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fr0UrBJkrr0#ws)
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I think mr_j5 was referring to the terrible coffee at the comps, bolt holes are simply holes for bolts
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:) No.
I meant that at the World Cups, you can use the bolt holes on the holds, but you can't use the bolt holds on the walls or volumes.
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I know but I had to get another coffee in somewhere ;)
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Anyone else up tonight for the semis?
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/ (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/)
Now, 25 entries in the men, 24 in the women...
Hardly worth having qualifying was it?
Surely in future the ifsc should be looking at the location and scheduling of these events with the athletes and audience more in mind? I know there's money in china, and it seems the crowds come out to watch, but given the lack of top level competitors and the travel for most of the athletes surely one event is enough? I'd like to see a round in japan - they've a very strong team atm, and also convenient for other eastern teams. And what was the point of Baku, apart from (I assume) the money?
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wtf is going on now?? rain break? seriously, and they flew all the way back to china for this?
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? and now IFSC has put on FB that top 8 girls through to finals??
Shauna and Akiyo looked v good, cant see past these two for later. Mens semis too hard, 1 top got you to final. No Dmitrii :(
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So Shauna needs to make top three and finish ahead of Akiyo in Laval to win the overall I think. Big ask the way akiyo is going atm (the second bit, not the first.)
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10451783_699605233408308_3647278113753312244_n.jpg)
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So Shauna needs to make top three and finish ahead of Akiyo in Laval to win the overall I think. Big ask the way akiyo is going atm (the second bit, not the first.)
They're both very consistent. And I do think that when Shauna engages full beast mode she can outshine Akiyo on some of the power problems. But Akiyo is so much better at these than she used to be. It's so close and will just come down to who's on top form that day.
Has to be said though, Shauna started the season better, while Akiyo has been getting stronger throughout....
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The other thing to be said is that this amount of competition makes it far more interesting to follow!
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Yeah, that comp could have gone either way. Two more tries on the dyno were all that cost Shauna the gold. Difficult to judge either Akiyo or Shauna better when they both flashed the next problem and couldn't do the last two. Seems like they are so close a little bit of good or bad luck can really make a difference...
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Videos of Haiyang boulder and lead comps now up on youtube:
Lead Finals:
IFSC Climbing World Cup Haiyang 2014 - Lead - Finals - Men/Women (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nGoXwgKHtg#ws)
Bouldering Finals:
IFSC Climbing World Cup Haiyang 2014 - Boulder - Finals - Men/Women (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svBb8HxoNQc#ws)
:popcorn:
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I had given up hope!
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Even though there where few tops it was a great watch. Missed Sharafutinov though.
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I had given up hope!
no YouTube in China so they have to wait till they get home to upload
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Michaela Tracy through to semis in Laval. (Shauna too obviously)
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May have spoken too soon, seems there's still some athletes to finish. Stupid ifsc app.
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Sure it used to show the whole entry list, now only seems to add people as they finish?
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go on Michaela! I assume she's been told by someone rather than using the app as she's just posted it on FB
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Awesome! App is now showing semi finalists and includes her.
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Graeme put this up on t'other channel - just to raise the tension:
So Shauna comes 4th and Akiyo 5th we get the following
Akiyo 565+51-worst score (51) = 565
Shauna 556+55-worst score (51) = 560
If Shauna comes 3rd and Akiyo 4th we get the following
Akiyo 565+55-worst score (55) = 565
Shauna 556+65-worst score (51) = 570
:popcorn:
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Laval 2014 - Women's Qualifiers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pgqwwk4RfNE#ws)
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looks like barrans qualified for the semis
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition# (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#)!comp=1522&cat=6
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are the mens all finished then? app still shows a few to go. Dmitrii looks like he may not make it!
great result for GB team anyway
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Is it just me or is the IFSC site about as bad as websites can get.
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It's not you
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Looks like Men's Quals 2 was quite a bit easier than Quals 1 if the tops and bonuses are anything to go by (haven't watched the video...)
Or is there a dyno somewhere where people are racking up the attempts?
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Hang on a gosh darn second - Sharifutinov failed to qualify?!!
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Balls. Was looking forward to a Jan vs Dmitrii final.
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Indeed - so Jan takes overall gold (well deserved!) but does slightly remove the tension
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Looks like you were right to pick him in top 3 at the beginning of the year!
Also looks like Gigi could move into silver if he does well.
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Looks like you were right to pick him in top 3 at the beginning of the year!
I think the least said about my predictions the better... But I was right about Jan & Dima
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Also looks like Gigi could move into silver if he does well.
4th place ties for silver I think?
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Anyone know why Akiyo's not listed as having qualified?
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She was on the list I saw?
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The list on ifsc website is toss, shauna Anna and akiyo all qualified joint first
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The list on ifsc website is toss, shauna Anna and akiyo all qualified joint first
Perhaps they'll all draw on countback in the semis too!
I'm actually pretty annoyed right now that my mates wedding is tomorrow. :-[
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What is going on with Dimitrii this season? His form seems to be all over the shop. It's a shame as Jan as had an 'easy' run as a result. The women's comp has definitely been much more exciting. Great to see some more GB action in the semis as well. :popcorn:
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I think jan is just so much stronger than the other guys maybe dimirti needs to up his game to compete with the new kids on the block
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What?! Are you lot watching the same comps as me? Dmitrii cruises stuff that the others bust a gut to climb - he just seems to be so much stronger. Jan's super power seems to be big moves and slopey holds - often he skips the normal crux by jumping past it, but on normal moves he doesn't look quite as good Dmitrii. It's been an interesting battle which Jan has won, but I think it's a bit strange to suggest that Dmitrii has had a poor season - I just looked at their results and they've both been in the finals 5 times this year. Jan has 3 golds and Dmitrii has 2.
It is a shame that Dmitrii failed to qualify, but surely the only conclusion that you can draw is that he had a bad day.
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What?! Are you lot watching the same comps as me? Dmitrii cruises stuff that the others bust a gut to climb - he just seems to be so much stronger. Jan's super power seems to be big moves and slopey holds - often he skips the normal crux by jumping past it, but on normal moves he doesn't look quite as good Dmitrii. It's been an interesting battle which Jan has won, but I think it's a bit strange to suggest that Dmitrii has had a poor season - I just looked at their results and they've both been in the finals 5 times this year. Jan has 3 golds and Dmitrii has 2.
It is a shame that Dmitrii failed to qualify, but surely the only conclusion that you can draw is that he had a bad day.
This, mostly. but also the visa rubbish with Canada means any inconsistency hurts him more than Jan.
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Big album from the Mens Qualis from Eddie here:
www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.345672558917522.1073741865.215974475220665&type=1 (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.345672558917522.1073741865.215974475220665&type=1)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10322822_345673512250760_9130933628845504597_n.jpg)
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What?! Are you lot watching the same comps as me? Dmitrii cruises stuff that the others bust a gut to climb - he just seems to be so much stronger. Jan's super power seems to be big moves and slopey holds - often he skips the normal crux by jumping past it, but on normal moves he doesn't look quite as good Dmitrii. It's been an interesting battle which Jan has won, but I think it's a bit strange to suggest that Dmitrii has had a poor season - I just looked at their results and they've both been in the finals 5 times this year. Jan has 3 golds and Dmitrii has 2.
It is a shame that Dmitrii failed to qualify, but surely the only conclusion that you can draw is that he had a bad day.
Dimitri is an uber beast, just for me jan seems to have been really on it this year, I guess a lot depends on the setting.
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The best thing I learned from this comp was that over-caffeinated sugary drink company made Rustam have a normal haircut for most of the season.
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interview with Rustam just after the final:
http://youtu.be/sd31iiRL5F4?t=2h22m13s (http://youtu.be/sd31iiRL5F4?t=2h22m13s)
he didn't train for two weeks before this comp, and surprised himself
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How did we all do?
Results:
1 NOGUCHI Akiyo JPN 610.00
2 COXSEY Shauna GBR 556.00
3 STÖHR Anna AUT 488.00
4 WURM Juliane GER 430.00
1 HOJER Jan GER 558.00
2 SHARAFUTDINOV Dmitrii RUS 467.00
3 GLAIRON MONDET Guillaume FRA 461.00
4 GELMANOV Rustam RUS 337.00
1. Akiyo Noguchi
2. Anna Stöhr.
3. Shauna Coxsey
Outsider: Juliane Wurm
1. Rustam Gelmanov. This will be his year
2. Jan Hojer
3. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet
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Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?
Great job on getting the 2nd overall. Next year, even more experience, even more consistency. Gotta be her year :)
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Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?
Great job on getting the 2nd overall. Next year, even more experience, even more consistency. Gotta be her year :)
Looked tricky - a couple of others matched the last hold mostly by touching it, not hanging it - not sure if Shauna was trying to get more established on it, or just could take off that other hand. Gutting though - if she'd held it, that would've been the win. Especially as she'd figured out the static method over the dyno.
Even so, Silver overall is fantastic and she can't really be disappointed with it. Good Finals I thought.
So Anna - complacent after thrashing so thoroughly last year, off the boil, or have Shauna & Akiyo just stepped up massively?
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Even so, Silver overall is fantastic and she can't really be disappointed with it. Good Finals I thought.
Boulder problems and the crowd were incredible! I am sad about my performance today but I can not be disapointed with the season I've had! (https://twitter.com/shaunacoxsey/status/483015861759143936)
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Exactly.
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Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?
Gutting though - if she'd held it, that would've been the win.
Yep, one hand match away from the overall gold! Didn't Malc have a similar situation years ago?
Still, silver's not shabby. Good comp. Rustam was incredible. Always impressive when he doesn't get stumped by lank moves.
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After a tough season Rustam decided to take inspiration from a higher power:
(http://static.desnivel.com/images/2005/04/27/gaskins_hubble_megagrip.jpg)
Also, I believe Michaela was 11th which is an ace result for a first semi :strongbench:.
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Rustam on the first problem, what a masterclass. Syked to watch the rest of it.
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This is the first year i have paid much attention to these comps. I just read Akiyo has been world champion before - is that right? (Don't tell me to check the IFSC website ... it's unnavigable!)
Maybe World Cup winner before if that is what you mean. She certainly hasn't won the world championships before.
She was overall world cup winner in 2009 & 2010, I can't be bothered to look further back than that.
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This is the first year i have paid much attention to these comps.
Me too.
I took my son to watch the World Cup round in Munich two years ago and we both enjoyed it immensely (to my considerable surprise), but I've never paid close attention to the results and overall standings before. Is this year different because the decision fell on the last problem of the last round instead of Anna just automatically winning everything? Because I'm more nationalistic than I previously suspected and there was a British contender? Dunno. :shrug:
I continue to not give a fart about lead competitions except when Adam is taking part.
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This is the first year i have paid much attention to these comps. I just read Akiyo has been world champion before - is that right? (Don't tell me to check the IFSC website ... it's unnavigable!)
Maybe World Cup winner before if that is what you mean. She certainly hasn't won the world championships before.
She was overall world cup winner in 2009 & 2010, I can't be bothered to look further back than that.
Yes, I think that is what I mean. So are the "world championships" a one-time event?
Yes. Annual
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Shauna, first problem, nerves? Just not her day?
Great job on getting the 2nd overall. Next year, even more experience, even more consistency. Gotta be her year :)
Looked tricky - a couple of others matched the last hold mostly by touching it, not hanging it - not sure if Shauna was trying to get more established on it, or just could take off that other hand. Gutting though - if she'd held it, that would've been the win. Especially as she'd figured out the static method over the dyno.
Even so, Silver overall is fantastic and she can't really be disappointed with it. Good Finals I thought.
So Anna - complacent after thrashing so thoroughly last year, off the boil, or have Shauna & Akiyo just stepped up massively?
I suspect if Shauna had gone dynamic (from the first attempt) she would have made it. As it was, she chose static and it was reachy - but I think she could have worked her feet up slightly more and made it work. She looked pretty nervous/stressed on it I thought, and I suspect the mental game was giving her trouble.
As for Anna - I think it's a bit of both.
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Shark grandly giving the women's world cup team a large chunk of UKB's meagre revenues this year!
Good point, well done shark.
I feel my ukb membership fee was well spent on a worthy cause. Wait a mo ...
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Just watched the final. Rustam :bow: :bow:
Congrats Shauna, looked like a tough set of blocs to keep your head together on :strongbench:
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Just watched the final. Rustam :bow: :bow:
:agree: really impressive. He out-janed Jan, so effortless on #1 and #4. Good on him.
Pity about Shauna but great for her overall. 2 golds 2 silvers? I forget. Great to watch anyway. I didn't like the problems (handjam aside!) as much as the other Euro / US / Canada legs, but the actual contest was good.
Really enjoyed this series. Problems / competitiveness / vibes / filming / commentary have been great overall.
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Yes. Annual
No every 2 years.
(Arco 2011 and Paris 2012 were due to realigning the Worlds so they didn't clash with the World Games)
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw0y7Hp6CYw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw0y7Hp6CYw#ws)
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IFSC Climbing World Cup Imst:
Semi:
IFSC Climbing World Cup Imst 2014 - Lead - Semi-finals - Men/Women (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG9VUYKL4vE#ws)
Full wood:
IFSC Climbing World Cup Imst 2014 - Lead - Finals - Men/Women (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9O-b42eURc#ws)
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IFSC 2014 World Championship, Gijion.
Semi:
IFSC Climbing World Championships Gijón 2014 - Lead - Semi-final - Men/Women (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ah0vh4mitKM#ws)
Final:
IFSC Climbing World Championships Gijón 2014 - Lead - Final - Men/Women (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SmAa2CKFU4#ws)