UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: 205Chris on April 19, 2014, 08:53:24 am
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On the hillside above Dad's Arete see here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23518.0.html) is a large isolated block of rock. The arete is a Jamie Lillleman thing but the centre of the slab through the overlaps is:
Phoenix Nights - Highball 7a(ish)
Pull on with the left arete and climb the centre of the slab, with the crux being moving through the rippled overlaps at the top. The right hand arete is out, although once you embark on the crux it's out of reach anyhow.
The landing is pretty flat (and a bit springy). I did it above a couple of pads but as there's no gear is probably best seen as a highball rather than a route.
I've got some footage that will appear at some point, picture (hopefully) below:
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31.0-8/10269232_10154016275475648_4124804777340760633_o.jpg)
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Looks spooky and much nicer than that left arete. Did you prepractice on a rope/onsight/or has that landing been tested?
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Looks spooky and much nicer than that left arete. Did you prepractice on a rope/onsight/or has that landing been tested?
Hi Will, I haven't done the left arete so I can't comment on quality I'm afraid. As for spooky, let's just say it was a lot more peaceful than Stanage on a Bank Holiday ;).
Apart from the arete the entire slab was quilted in moss so I abbed it to clean it and then checked some of the moves on a Gri-Gri. I almost dismissed it as being too hard after a quick inspection but then uncovered a small edge hiding under some moss which made all the difference for me on the crux.
I didn't test the landing, Jamie had already done some platforming work for the left arete and now I've done a small piece of gardening the landing below the slab is flat, although it needs a couple of pads to cover the odd tree stump.
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The big handed fuck
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Nice work Chris. Have been badgering Jamie for some details for the arete (he's done it both sides including a sitter to the LHS) and will post when he's done deliberating.
In case anyone's not figured it this is the same place I called Stanton Endcliffe. As there's an Endcliffe Wood in Sheffield Chris's name is perhaps less confusing.