UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: 205Chris on April 13, 2014, 09:49:48 pm
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Couple of possible new things. I've refrained from naming them for the time being in case someone reckons they've been done before.
Park as for Stanton quarries and walk downhill towards Stanton Lees for a few hundred metres. At a footpath sign on the left, walk down a short track until at the top of a quarry (this is the same approach as if you were heading to Dad's Arete - Belly full of Brad Berries). At the base of the quarry is a large block, the two problems are on the far side of it.
Arete on right - 6c. Sit start the right side of the arete, starting with your left hand on the arete, right hand on a sidepull flake. Slap up to a pocket on the arete with your left hand then move right slightly to top out at the apex of the boulder.
Endcliffe quarry on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/91867872)
Arete on left - 7a. Stand start the left side of the arete and climb it via a tenuous layback sequence on slopers.
I've got some footage of this I'm going to put in a longer edit of random peak esoterica at some stage.
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Good work Chris. New probs I'd say. I've not done them and neither had Jamie last time I spoke. Had spotted the boulder but hadn't got round to to trying. Thought they looked decent probs.
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Did these the other night Chris, good job on the cleaning. :thumbsup:
Have you got a name for the 6c?
I climbed it differently than your method as I had only a vague memory of your post - used a hold just around the arête low down but none of the holds out right, just the left arête up to a fat pinch and a pop for the jug. Felt about 6b+ this way. Worth the effort.
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Did these the other night Chris, good job on the cleaning. :thumbsup:
Have you got a name for the 6c?
I climbed it differently than your method as I had only a vague memory of your post - used a hold just around the arête low down but none of the holds out right, just the left arête up to a fat pinch and a pop for the jug. Felt about 6b+ this way. Worth the effort.
Nice one, good work.
On the left it's called A Bigger Bee and on the right it's called Bee Side. There's footage of A Bigger Bee on Peakoterica.