UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: simon40 on April 04, 2014, 09:56:14 am
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Been trying the lower bit for a while, move up to big right flake [as per boulder problem] fine, really stuck on where you put your feet to move up and left to crimp under next flake.
Have been trying with left foot on first handhold [for right] and right foot over to flat sloper, although too bunched.
Does the left foot have to be lower and right foot lower, ie not on the flat sloper.
Ta
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Hi Simon,
I've only ever struggled with the crux but you might find some beta here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7609.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7609.0.html)
good luck
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Thanks for the reply
Ironically, the link, which was useful, presumes I have already got the left crimp...........Are you saying this move isnt the crux, if so I think more board sessions are needed
Cheers anyway.......will be their again tonight scratching my head
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Few videos online of the route which could help. Also, in relation to your message if be keen for a go some of the evenings.
Nipping out soon to try the start, not tried it yet so hopefully it's not too bad....
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Great let me know how you get on, will be there sunday am hopefully, and then in the week a couple of nights most likely mon wed or thurs
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Apologies if this is too vague to be of any help, but I remember having my right foot on an obvious square smear and dropping my left knee. Good Luck.
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Great let me know how you get on, will be there sunday am hopefully, and then in the week a couple of nights most likely mon wed or thurs
Didn't get to the crimp, but the beta I was given was (from the big flake)...
Put RF on the big slopey hold and flag left.
Bump RH up too the top of the flake where you can get a thumb on for a Pinch.
LF onto starting hold, then bump it up again into an egyptian with the LF fully vertical on the left of the starting hold.
Then pull/step up onto the crimp.
Going with a rope tomorrow. And I'll probably be up for one of those days. Need to check my work rota first though. Will let you know.
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Great and thanks for this, will try that sequence, just felt hard and a long way. May be able to get tomorrow although probably not, let me know evenings when you can get and would be good to get a rope on it