UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: dobbin on July 08, 2004, 03:18:16 pm
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I am going next Thursday and will submit full (technicolour) report on our return.
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look forward to it. It's one of those places I've always wanted to go. Must be because it has "Magic" in it's name!
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read on 8a that there's been a mad chipper on the loose, destroying 90% of the probs :shock:
if confirmed this would mean someone is telling the truth and all credibility will be lost :wink:
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Pants! I will check it out. If I come back and have flashed 100 8a's then you can reasonably assume its been chipped! (Or 100 7a's to be honest!)
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just put 2+2 together (yes I studied maths at uni) and realised you are the chap down at the school lastnight. I was the punter who let you in.
100 7A flashes! that would be a good result from the trip in my opinion... How long are you going for?
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Yes thats me! funny when you actually twig who some of the people on here are - not who you'd imagine; Bubba is actually a dead fit bird with massive knockers! and Dave - thats actually Klem Loskot! amazing.
We are only going for 5 days, so thats an awesome 20 flashes a day (I studied hard at the school). Which would be pretty awesome.
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Dave - thats actually Klem Loskot! amazing.
cofe=mungo.
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Dave - thats actually Klem Loskot! amazing.
cofe=mango chutney.
more like :wink:
p.s. dave is twice is philosophical as klem :roll:
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Was in the 'wood' a couple of weeks ago. Not very nice really, problems were all very poor quality and theres not much hard stuff. A real let down. I've heard that Stannington Roughs is very good this time of year though.......!
Ok, Ok, the magique wood is a very good place to go bouldering at this time of year. The approach cables are quite stimulating, and the boulders are awesome. Take lots of pads and spotters though, high blocks and bad landings are de rigeur!
There has been a little chipping, but hopefully the talentless bell-end/s who are responsible have packed it in now, for fear of the beating they will get if anybody ever catches them.
Conditions will be bon, as the boulders are kind of air-conditioned! You have to go to check this out ..... frigid air blowing out from wierd ice-filled chasms underground. It can be 35 degrees in the sun, but baltic next to the problems..... very strange. Nice new free campsite too.
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Aye, its rubbish. :wink: not like anywhere I've ever climbed at so far. Varied and set in amazing background with a euro cast of 10's. Very unspoilt and wild, would be nice for it to stay that way.
Half the fun of climbing somewhere new is finding out about it yourself, and with well documented access issues surrounding the valley I'll say its good and leave it there.
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Just booked the tickets word. 3 weeks to go!!!!!!!!!!
PSYCHED OUT OF MY TINY LITTLE MIND
bring it on
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Its called 'Magic wood' but that might refer to Lorien for all I know. Where is it? A link to a map perhaps...
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http://www.angelfire.com/film/rings/images/map5.JPG
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I know what the burbage valley looks like!
Anyone who isn't palying clever clogs...?
Are you just annoyed that I'm being lazy?
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i haven't been able to get any map's or shit either on the place, but rumour has it that jim's bought blocheart today. thank god he's a sad ticker
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word. have indeed got blocheart
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Going on Monday - eat my shorts ya'll
anyone got a link to the bunk house or ways to contact them. Has anyone stayed there? does it get full?
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Just got back. Awesome!
cowboyhat - its also called Averstal. Blocheart or blocnotes has got it in, there's also a really confusing topo which you can buy when you get there, from the Gasthaus up the road.
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Jim - the bunk house usually has room, except for last weekend when there was a Psy-trance festival just up the road. I've never seen so many clean looking hippies.
Its about 17 swiss francs a night, you should just be able to turn up. They speak good english and are very friendly. We ended up staying in the Gasthaus itself cos of bunkhouse being full, more expensive but very nice. We still snuck into the bunkhouse to cook our food.
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I've never seen so many clean looking hippies
he certainly looks different :wink:
confusing topo- shit, have enough trouble reading them as it is
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Cheers for your knowledge Lucy.
Also will we need a swiss/italian road map as the map in blocheart isn't too detailed?
cheers yo
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Good trip ya'll.
Anyone thinking of going, take some gloves. There was plenty of room in the bunk house when we were there. Some photo's
This way to Magic wood
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/this%20way%20to%20magic%20wood.jpg)
Dense on the high wire
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/lee%20high%20wire.jpg)
JR on traumfanger
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/JR%20traumfanger.jpg)
Char on red roses
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/char%20red%20roses.jpg)
Ryan on never ending story
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/ryan%20never%20ending%20story.jpg)
Lee on du cote du seshuan
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/lee%20du%20cote%20du%20seshuan.jpg)
Me on the same problem
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/Jim%20du%20cote%20du%20seshuan.jpg)
Char on U-Boat
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/Char%20Uboat.jpg)
Me on La Dance
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10165/Jim%207c%20mantel.jpg)
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confusing topo- shit, have enough trouble reading them as it is
to prove a point. was tryin red roses from a sitter thinkin it was fingerlicker, sitter's not been done. asked one of the swiss guy's at edelweiss how he did it, when things became clear the couple of swiss guy's were pissin themselves at out ineptitude. them long summer evenings just flew by...
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Quality place though eh? did Pascal get up die undieliche gesichte (sp!?) did you get up cote du? I loved that problem, deffo the highlight of the trip.
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ryan kept failing on the link. he could do the 2 halves every go tho, plus his wrist was fuct.
Didn't manage to do du cote du seshuan, worked all the moves then couldn't do one of the lower down moves after resting for some bizzare reason. wish I'd gone and done blown away now. managed to tick pirajna tho :)
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That Blown away was wicked - you must have a high pain threshold for piranha, got some nice pics of us trying it and kept coming close but no cigar. Will stick some of the vids on t'interweb.
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have also got some vid footage. will stick it up when I figure out how to work it all
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word. where does one fly to then?
does the blocheart book have all the shit one would need?
super.
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Blocheart is good enough to at least get you to the valley and get you started. once you arrive you can buy the updated Topo from the guesthouse. This has all the latest and greatest problems that have only recently been done. Fly to Milan (BGY probably best).
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Dobbin, whats the email for the gasthause?
Milan bergamo was fairly easy last year cofe.
Gonna be looking into getting this sorted this week
Double psyched ;D
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word think we're looking at early july maybe now cos jimmy nail can't go late june.
yeah. what's the email for the gassthaus yah?
p.s. is it a good place to get injured?
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the best, especially cos if you break both your legs cos its really easy to get from the crag to the road.
Is this the email Dobbin?
edelweiss583@bluewin.ch
(taken from http://people.cs.uchicago.edu/~mpschaef/climbpics/switzerland/switzerlandbeta.html (http://people.cs.uchicago.edu/~mpschaef/climbpics/switzerland/switzerlandbeta.html))
Let us know what your plans are dopefield. will be booking it very soon
got some flights from scouseland to bergamo going sunday 25th june to friday 30th for £58 all in from ryanair and I haven't even started looking yet
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jim - thats the mail addy I have for them. I mailed on Monday and aint heard nowt yet. Prices are 18.50CHF for a night in the bunkhouse, which translates as £8.11p. Understand Bungle is keen but thinking about going to canada.
I have booked flights from Leeds BFD to BGY leaving monday the 26th June at lunchtime, flying home again on sat the 1st July at lunchtime again. That was £85 but its in Leeds rather than scouse land. Hope you big gangly turds can make it. You can witness the fitness first hand then!
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Just got back and it was boss as ever. Sad to hear from some yokels that some shank-monkeys have been nicking pads left in the woods by people sieging problems. Mother funglers!
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they prob have been left under other probs. "I climb to feel my body" had a right go at ryan and dribble for using their pads. If you want to leave your pad in a wood then you face the consequences. If they have been nicked then it's obviously by wankers >:(
these new smilies are shit
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we are now thinking of going for 10 days, just in negotiations with jet2 and ryanair as we speak.
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we reckon on first week in july now word. 1st onwards.
leave some rocks for us.
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why i just cant like magic wood?
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these new smilies are shit
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5573.0.html
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Milan bergamo was fairly easy last year cofe.
you werent saying that to the car hire company at bergamo!?
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it looks loads easier to get there from geneva. is there a reason y'all fly to milan?
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geneva? are you tripping, its about a 300mile drive.
(http://www16.mappy.com/sid9d6JFscDBu/Mn21w/Z?out=6;carto=5;zoom_set=3;pr_w=0;pr_h=0;map_width=;map_height=;a=855107265)
zurich - maybe, innsbruck - possibly if you were psyched, geneva - no way. as far as i can see no-one flies cheap to either zurich or innsbruck anyway.
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i dont doubt cofe is in this instance tripping or rather taking a trip too far. But for future reference air berlin fly cheap as chips to zurich from manc and stansted if you get them on the right day. just seen £42 return from stansted word.
http://www.skyscanner.net/gbp/flights/uk/zrh/cheapest-flights-to-zurich-from-united_kingdom.html
and a mate i met in cham week before last had flown helvetica (what used to be swiss air) to zurich from city airport for cheaper than easyjet could to geneva.
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it looks loads easier to get there from geneva. is there a reason y'all fly to milan?
have you got the usbourne atlas for kids, the version thats not to scale or do you need your eyes testing? :shrug:
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Booked in. Think we'll be on the same flight as you Dobbin. Going from leeds on jet2 now. flights £45 each. Shamone.
Oh yeah, staying for 10 days now fo sure! coming back on the 5th July so we'll be able to see the rest of you losers that are comng out the second week.
Dobbin, any reply from the email to the bunkhouse? I'm gonna try em now
also we hired out a Hummer with chrome spinners
eat my shorts
roll on the end of june
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why i just cant like magic wood?[/quote]
cos your are weak my friend ;)
anyways does someone know if the camp/bivaque place still operate?
cheers
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why i just cant like magic wood?
cos your are weak my friend ;)
anyways does someone know if the camp/bivaque place still operate?
cheers
[/quote]
or maybe cos im used to climb in better places with better rock?
who knows...
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it came out a strange form of quote :-\
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better places? why is called then magic wood??
better rock? again. all the hard/harder problems have excellent rock, which I agree is not thrue for easier stuff
+ its hard to find a better place for summer bouldering
but what i write before was ment to be joke, so no hard feelings
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never hard feelings.
dunno,
i found the rock too aggressive, and the temps not so cool anyway. ive liked alot more annot, and font even in summer.
it prolly deals also with the fact that i had a hard time in magic wood, due to parents/work calling ten times a day for problems.
for sure ill try again, leaving the cell phone at home.
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what's the crack with the bunkhouse boys?
is there a john, john? or a bed, fred? or a shower, flower?
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what's the crack with the bunkhouse boys?
The crack ain't looking too good Cofe: It's dark - it's hairy - and there's bits in it....
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The crack is good and so is the bunk house. I just got my reply confirming my reservation. There are beds, Fred. a couple of Johns, John. a showers for you flower, just listen to me. Hop on the bus Gus, don't need to discuss my, just leave out the key Lee and get yourself free...... etc
and even a kitchen and comunal area. also the porch is great for doing one armers in (just try not to kick the flower pots over!)
Its right next to the Gastaus which servers a cracking pint and some quality grub but is not terribly cheap. good hint for food is go into town and buy frozen pizza's and get em in the oven at the bunkhouse
Word to ya mama
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we need sleeping bags n shit?
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The crack is good and so is the bunk house. I just got my reply confirming my reservation. There are beds, Fred. a couple of Johns, John. a showers for you flower, just listen to me. Hop on the bus Gus, don't need to discuss my, just leave out the key Lee and get yourself free...... etc
You're rhymes are grim, Jim.
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Word to that, thats why I'm a baker.
You need sleeping bags, No need for shit tho. I think they aren't short of manure.
Are you losers actually coming out then? what dates you getting out?
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1st - 8th july.
have started a pretty hardcore training regime which currently involves:
- googling 'averstal photos'
- googling 'magic wood'
- watching dosage 3
should be feeling tip top in no time.
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we will be there till the fifth, luckily i can't think of anything that rhymes with this, piss. hopefully tyler will have got past the second to the last move on new base log by then ;)
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we will be there till the fifth, luckily i can't think of anything that rhymes with this
how about pith, as in orange pith.
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or sith, as in lord of the?
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Just setting off, see you goons out there 8)
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We're here and have done everything - nearly. Getting early flight back.
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Jim made me write that but its not true. Has been a good trip so far, not bagged up anything from the hitlist but its either been too hot or too wet so far. Hope to report some degree of sucess by tomorrow night (when our trip will finito). Pure brits out here, ryan really has done just about everything!
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ryan really has done just about everything!
Some things never change :)
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/benmorton/sets/72157594183812740/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/benmorton/sets/72157594183812740/)
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cool photos dude, wish i'd have gone :oops:
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:agree:
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Great shots, indeed.
This is my favourite:
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/houdini2/dense.jpg)
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I was really hoping to capture the full horror of Dense gurning on that problem, and had my trigger finger been a little quicker we might just have seen it too. Be thankful, I imagine his gurn is not dissimilar to his cum face....
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Dense has an expressive brow.
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Be thankful, I imagine his gurn is not dissimilar to his cum face....
easy dobbin, i've just had my breakfast. How was pascal fairing on the big link up?
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looked like he was climbing well. Made it from the back into the up move on PT2 then came off getting the jug out left, and from a couple of moves before pt2 to the top, so I suspect only a matter of time before sucess, but he had to leave early. dunno whether he plans to be back this season or not...
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How did Magic Wood get it's name? :-\
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some good photo's there arnold. I'll try to get mine up soonish. just put the digital on my computer, had 1 film back and another is coming back on monday
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What happened after we left then? what did you beardown boys get done and whats on the hitlist for next time if there is a next time?
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Houdini - I think some westie visited (its actually called Averstal) and was like, oh man, this is like, so magical... and the woods were named. I wouldnt be at all suprised to learn that it was one of those two most chief of westies Dave Graham or Chris Sharma.
More pics sooner! re stuff to do on a return visit - for me thats quite easy - all the stuff I went out intending to do! given that I acheived nothing on the hitlist thats what I would be after! Ah well, its all beta and training.
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Can't be Sharma. Met him just a few days before he drove to MJ. Him and his pal Brett were most amused at the thought of climbing in 'magic wood'. Something to do with wood being a synonym for stiffy, I think.
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What happened after we left then? what did you beardown boys get done and whats on the hitlist for next time if there is a next time?
after you left had a day knocking off all the best 7a/+s, then it rained, then we sacked it to chironico which incidentally is brilliant. If i go out there again would be more keen for a trip split between chironico and magic.
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Him and his pal Brett were most amused at the thought of climbing in 'magic wood'. Something to do with wood being a synonym for stiffy, I think.
Very Beavis and Butthead. "Huh Huh, Huh Huh, this place has "wood" in it's name". If they went to woodwell or goodwood, they'd probably piss themselves.
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was it not 300 degree's at chironico? when we went to cresiano it was too hot to even walk
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No, no, it was 150 during the day, then -150 at night. You did go in a plane though.
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ha, karma levelling wad point for that :lol:
don't know if they went there and back in the same plane though
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we did enter and give Jo Whiley a good ride on the way there tho
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was it not 300 degree's at chironico? when we went to cresiano it was too hot to even walk
no it was cooler than it had been in magic wood. plus you can walk around witohut breaking your legs or getting limes disease from ticks. bearing in mind chironico is about 20mins drive up the valley from krishtianov and about a fuck load higher in elevation.
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it should be noted that i said lets go to chironico, but no one was interested. jim had more apricots to buy
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it should be noted that dense's last statement is completely fictional. I remember no mention of chironico. Also you owe me petrol money although it is insignificant compared to the dark side or the amount mr wilson owes me.
You ruined my holiday.
bastard
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third day in, rainin at magic grades.
dense "right lets go n look at dreamtime n climb at chrironico. completely different weather system"
jim "i can't be arsed. i'm not drivin for 3 hrs"
obviously we'd just had an argument about jims extravagant shopping, which dribble n nige didn't want to be a part of cos it was costin too much. then 3 days later we go for a look at dreamtime. what had changed? jim had finished throwing all his toys out of the pram
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so,
tell me, is it worth chironico in the summer?
hows with the access problems reported?
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(Nibile - Only the mighty sir egg went to Cresciano, and he's not said anything about access issues. I would imagine Chironico will be quiet over summer, so perhaps its died down a bit, plus, I know Dave is a peace crisp touting responsible type and will have parked the Hummer down in the village before climbing, and - he wont have discharged his glock after succeeding on hard rock climbs)
I can remember Jim saying he wasnt psyched to drive for three hours to get to cresc, and I can also remember dense talking about Chironico and indeed much heated discussion regarding apricots. But I am still confused as to how many planes were involved during the trip.
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we certainly did park in rougly the right place in the village, though it should be noted that in that dogshite blocheart guide the place marked on the plan with a P for parking is actually not where it describes that you should park at. that guide really does suck on a fat shitty dick.
I can imagine jim not beign psyched to drive 3 hours to creciano - luckily magic wood is only 1.5 hours drive from there.
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thats one way remember honkies and if your on a plane in the same plane then doubling that gives the magical figure of 3 hours plus however far it is to chironicizzle and back which I didn't want to do
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Its probably all my fault, as I do remember when we discussed it someone definately asked how much further chironico was and I said at least 30 mins, so that would make a 2 hour drive, which when you factor in the planes thing makes 4 hours, which to any self respecting kestrel lover is just too far to drive on a rest day.
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??? ??? ???
from here, the deep south, chironioc is far closer than magic.
i just wanted to know if its climbable in summer, since its alot higher than cresc.
last march cresc was perfect, barechested climbing, and chironico was still packed with snow...
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which to any self respecting kestrel lover is just too far to drive on a rest day.
We drove 3 hours round trip to got to Motel - another astoundingly good (sarcasm) recomendation from the dogshite Blocheart guide. They fail to mention that the all the bouldering is on a dirt slope the slopes away at 45degrees in 2 planes. And the rock is shite. All you wiggaz hating on the Tor better check this place out for some perspective. Its one of only 3 venues I recall going to in my life (and the first non-Lakes) and not even getting my shoes out of my bag. The other 2 were the Stirrup Boulders and Sheperds Crag.
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what the hell is wrong with shepherds crag?
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its in the lakes :P
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The pictures from my D50:
Magic Wood Photo's (http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/photos/magicwood/)
getting films back today so maybe scan some and add them as well at a later date
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you're a genius Jim. I knew you could do it!
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so, whos in da posse?
nice pics. wanna climb.
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I'll get round to naming stuff as I learn it.
In pics were: Dobbin, dense, Nigela, Helen and two Simon's
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dunno if youre interested, or if you already know, but here a nice website for weather forecast. its very accurate.
http://www.meteosvizzera.ch/web/en/weather/detail_forecast/localforecasts.html (http://www.meteosvizzera.ch/web/en/weather/detail_forecast/localforecasts.html)
you can insert "cresciano" or "chironico" and ever "ausserferrera" (magic wood).
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Good work dude - thats a useful link!
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Dear Jim
please post the picture of dense and dribble doing synchronised diving! :bounce:
jfw
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As requested
(http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/syncro%20diving.jpg)
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Its like Brokeback mountain.
Just heard from the Mighty Harris who sounds like he has had a great trip. I'm sure he will tell you all about it when he sees you or perhaps through these pages, but a few bunkhouse bits to tell you : The old bunkhouse is in its last couple of weeks. It will shortly be pulled down as the new one is now open. Price is going up to 25F.
Christina is dating that fat builder dude. She and Danny have split. Danny is leaving Ausserferrera in the next few weeks. The Gasthaus will be needing a new chef and keeper.
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I thought that Christina had just had a baby with Danny :jaw:
What about Peter? Where does he fit in?
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yeah man, they have a daughter. THink she is with Christina but he gets to play with her. I dont know mate, its none of our business really is it. I feel quite sad for them as they were really nice couple (if a bit mismatched).
Who is peter?
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Peter is the odd fat guy with the glasses who shakes in the morning
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Shiv, Vicky B, Alex (Messenger) and myself just got from our 1st trip to "the wood" and can confirm it lived up to the hype I've been hearing over the past 3 years (particulalry from Dobin & Percy). We had a great trip and whilst the weather was mixed it all fell right with rest days and we got lots done.
Not much if you don't climb at least 7a although if you climb 7b or greater there's much more at your disposal. Did some truly great problems like (excuse the spelling) red roses, heb d'arch, hoenrausch, Piranja, Octopussy, slip slop slap, and a host of others. Funnily enough have a week in Switzerland with work 21-25/08 so am planning on spending the bank holiday there (anyone about?) and hopefully get on some of the harder stuff.
As for grades we got a hold of the new photocopied topo (pretty poor) which has seen a lot of downgrades from the 1st guide but we still thought most stuff was 0.5 out (eg. 8a is 7c+, 7b+ is 7b). How much of this is due to some really odd illogical starts (eg. Pura Vida) and easier sequences (eg. Piranja goes direct up to the sharp hold rather than out right as most people do) I'm not sure but they really need to address this in any new guides. Also seems like lots of newer stuff to be added and would be good to have some English for all the visiting hoards.
As for the bunk house situation all seems a bit sad and none of our business. We were pretty much the last people to stay here but there is a new deluxe (albeit characterless) version right next to it with showers in each room (£11/night is still a bargain anywhere let alone Switzerland) and a phone No at the door to book a room out.
Can't wait to get back.
Andy
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some really odd illogical starts (eg. Pura Vida) and easier sequences (eg. Piranja goes direct up to the sharp hold rather than out right as most people do)
fucking tell me about it - as far as pointless eliminates and daft starting positions go magic wood is probably the worse offender of anywhere i've ever been. james bong paint dabs being a case in point!!!
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As for grades we got a hold of the new photocopied topo (pretty poor) which has seen a lot of downgrades from the 1st guide but we still thought most stuff was 0.5 out (eg. 8a is 7c+, 7b+ is 7b).
don't reckon its all overgrading though... plus they use the 'easy, medium, hard, very hard' system now, - must have been to the foundry and seen the light.
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Funnily enough have a week in Switzerland with work 21-25/08 so am planning on spending the bank holiday there (anyone about?) and hopefully get on some of the harder stuff
me and 'easy'mcgill will be there for some of the week andy, but also chironico if it stays cool - i'm hopefully going to get on some of the easier stuff
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When Al says 'easy stuff' he means deadly highballs with tiny holds that only he can see. Bastard. ;)
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A bit of Magic Wood info
So the new Generoso is finally open and the old one is officially closed and soon to be demolished. Along with 30 Germans or so attending a wedding up in the hills I was the 1st person to stay here. It's very Swiss, very nuclear bunker and a just a bit characterless. But importantly it's very warm, has great beds and amazing power showers that are perfect for a soak after a hard day in the wood. Leave your sleeping bags at home all you need is a towel.
There are a few phone Nos you can phone on the door to get one of the locals over and book a room. The cost is CHF27/person/night for sharing up to 4 & if you want a room for 2 it costs CHF37/person/night.
The Generoso is currently looked after by one of the locals and her mum will soon take over the gasthoff / restaurant (some time in Sept). They are looking for a new person to run both of these (CV on a postcard to Ausserferrera).
For those sans car or thinking of travelling alone I tagged the wend on to a works visit to Zurich. It costs about £50 return from the airport – Ausserferrera on a couple of trains & buses and was really easy. Wiss transport is fantastic, and get this. If your bus to the station is running late you can get the driver to call ahead and hold the train until you get there!!! Imagine if you phoned up British rail and said the traffics murder on the M62, can you hold the 9:15 to Paddington please. Hysterical laughter or dumb silence would be the likely response.
Also bumped in to a very smiley Christian Core who almost cruised New Base line in a session. Somewhat impressive, hopefully he got it the next day.
As for me I did get on the "harder stuff" but mostly didn't do it. NE part II evaded me again but Pura Vida is on for the next trip. And how good was cote du sechuan, also longer than any of the routes I did this year so far.
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Also bumped in to a very smiley Christian Core who almost cruised New Base line in a session. Somewhat impressive, hopefully he got it the next day.
it wasnt christian, it was me. ;)
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is the edelweiss now shut then? damn shame. that rosti was fine.
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Will be going to Magic next Wednesday :thumbsup:
Does anyone (AndyH?) have the phone number for the new guesthouse as we will be turning up at 1am
Do they leave the doors open so we could pay in the morning and avoid sleeping in the car?
Cheers
D
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Afraid I forgot to jot down the nos. Don't think anyone will be up or best pleased to be got up at that time in sleepy Ausserferrera. If I can get one of the nos from a Swiss friend I'll post it but most of these guys don't speak English so I'm not sure how your German is.
The door is always kept locked so can't imagine Swiss effficiency will allow otherwise. It's also of nuclear bunker construction so it wont be possible to break in.
Think you're better off staying in a roadside motel (maybe Italy is cheaper) or sleeping in the car overnight. Pain is there are pillows and duvets in the bunk house so if you stay in the car you've just got more luggage.
good luck.
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Thanks Andy, might have to kip in a motel. Will make a point of taking down the number for other people
D :)
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post it up here when you get back
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Will be going to Magic next Wednesday :thumbsup:
Does anyone (AndyH?) have the phone number for the new guesthouse as we will be turning up at 1am
Do they leave the doors open so we could pay in the morning and avoid sleeping in the car?
Cheers
D
potentially see you there, might drive over from saas at some point next week
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Just got back from Magic Wood. The bouldering is indeed rubbish and I'm not sure why anyone would bother traveling so far. If however you do get bored and want to go Swiss the Generosa is indeed the shit. If it wasn't for a return flight I could have happily stayed forever. The kitchen would put Gordan Ramsey's to shame.
If you need to book, or just want to speak to some nice Swiss people the details are :
Sonja Ruedi (lives next to the Restaurant)
+41 (0) 81 661 11 89
Natel
+41 (0) 79 661 46 82
Trudi Sulser
41 (0) 79 362 62 90
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Does anyone know how long the bridge has been there? Its a bit of a pity its there. We only found it on the last day...
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the bridge was there virtually since the first perception of magic wood (in a bouldery context). untill this year it was closed for the public (cows had a license though). now there seems to be some kind of agreement to let the fence stay open...
so the forrest will become a rugrat paradise...
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Just got back from Magic Wood. The bouldering is indeed rubbish and I'm not sure why anyone would bother traveling so far
agree, i've never been as underwhelmed about a pile of rocks - nice bakery in the village though
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Right, since this is the "golden hind" of Magic Wood beta, I've dragged it back to life for my own use...
Looks like I'm probably heading over to Magic Wood later in the summer and am trying to persuade my girlfriend that she'd have a great time hanging out with a bunch of blokes poncing around and shouting abuse at each other. No actually, she fits in perfectly well with them all (and probably prefers their company to mine) but she is concerned that she may not get much done out there. Caryl boulders up to about 6b+ in Font but prefers to climb on less friction dependent rock, ideally with positive edges (the antithesis of my prefered style, but there you go). I know fuck all about Magic Wood so can anyone give me an idea whether Caryl will get much done out there? Or to put it more simply, is there much for people climbing under 6c who like positive holds? Obviously I want to sell it to her as a wonder venue covered in positive edges and enough problems under 6c to last a week for Caryl. For making comparisons that will appeal to Caryl, she has bouldered in Ailfroide, Font, Medonnet, a few other alpine places, all around the UK and Wales
I don't think that made much sense, but if you do understand what I mean and can give me any information, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks.
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if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off ;)
seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.
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if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off ;)
:lol: Yeah, that is my fear and exactly what Andy Jennings said last night.
seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.
An almost perfect response Dense. I shall pass on your comments and tell her to blame you if she gets shut down big style. Anything to avoid blaming me to be honest; I'm always getting blamed for taking Caryl to venues full of slopey traverses and hideous mantels.
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Has any one got some beta for getting a gite near magic wood?
obviously were not paying mega bucks for the bunkhouse with no kitchen facilites and certainly not camping either
any links or other info greatly appreciated.
Ta
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Jim, go and see the tourist office in Belinzona. They will ring up local houses/gites that are for rent and arrange it all with the owners. Easier than you trying to ring up and book and having to speak french/german/swis etc ete. We turned up in October with nowhere to stay, and this is what we did. Got a lovely place for 900 swiss francs between 5 of us for 10 days. Overlooking Belinzona. So 1h hour to magic wood, 30 mins to cresh, 25 mins to Chironico, etc etc
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Right, since this is the "golden hind" of Magic Wood beta, I've dragged it back to life for my own use...
Looks like I'm probably heading over to Magic Wood later in the summer and am trying to persuade my girlfriend that she'd have a great time hanging out with a bunch of blokes poncing around and shouting abuse at each other. No actually, she fits in perfectly well with them all (and probably prefers their company to mine) but she is concerned that she may not get much done out there. Caryl boulders up to about 6b+ in Font but prefers to climb on less friction dependent rock, ideally with positive edges (the antithesis of my prefered style, but there you go). I know fuck all about Magic Wood so can anyone give me an idea whether Caryl will get much done out there? Or to put it more simply, is there much for people climbing under 6c who like positive holds? Obviously I want to sell it to her as a wonder venue covered in positive edges and enough problems under 6c to last a week for Caryl. For making comparisons that will appeal to Caryl, she has bouldered in Ailfroide, Font, Medonnet, a few other alpine places, all around the UK and Wales
I don't think that made much sense, but if you do understand what I mean and can give me any information, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks.
if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off ;)
seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.
great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!
MW starts at 7a, nuff said :oops:
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great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!
MW starts at 7a, nuff said :oops:
if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off ;)
seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.
Well that clears that up then. :-\
Anyone else care to add their tuppence worth? We were planning to book flights today, but not sure now. I really don't want to take Caryl along to a place where she gets sod all done.
Thanks.
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Ben, I think you are underestimating just how much Caryl will rip it up. If she jumps in at the deep end, I'm sure she'll get some nice surprises at 7a.
I was going to come until Andy informed me I'd need 300 quid. Must remember to tell him to 'get real'.
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:lol: Yeah, that is my fear and exactly what Andy Jennings said last night.
would that be the andy jennings ex hull,ex boy scout.
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That's the ticket. Now Sheffield's darling socialite and Hunters Bar resident rent boy. Soon to embark upon a £50,000 climbing trip ;)
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so rent boying in sheffield is financially more rewarding than being the scoutmasters sex slave.
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When not eyeing up 'that' barmaid in his local pub, he profits greatly from the local needs of sub-standard male slags.
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did he sell his house or is it one of the many that have floated off down the humber.
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never mind that.
I need gite beta please
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did he sell his house or is it one of the many that have floated off down the humber.
Andy was moaning last night that his house did receive a little bit of flood damage, but not much by the sounds of it (certainly not as much as other houses on his road). However his next door neightbour did catch a coi carp in Andy's garden the other day. Apparently it had escaped from a pond round the corner and swum into Andy's quagmire garden. Quite why anything, fish or otherwise would choose to enter Andy's property is beyond me, although maybe it knew Andy was in Sheffield that week.
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never mind that.
I need gite beta please
Although I've never booked a gite in magic, whenever I have been to cresc I have arranged accomodation through interhome.ch. They speak english and seem to have properties throughout swizzle.
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did he sell his house or is it one of the many that have floated off down the humber.
Andy was moaning last night that his house did receive a little bit of flood damage, but not much by the sounds of it (certainly not as much as other houses on his road). However his next door neightbour did catch a coi carp in Andy's garden the other day. Apparently it had escaped from a pond round the corner and swum into Andy's quagmire garden. Quite why anything, fish or otherwise would choose to enter Andy's property is beyond me, although maybe it knew Andy was in Sheffield that week.
so the insurance is paying for the road trip. ;)
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I think you and Carol should both get on that plane to Magic! I reckon she would get a lot done and bag plenty of magically overgraded stuff ;) Plus I will be needing some technical gurus to unlock the beta for all those dynos :thumbsup:
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Plus I will be needing some technical gurus to unlock the beta for all those dynos :thumbsup:
I ain't giving you anymore beta. You owe me so much after our last trip to Wales, you basically just walked round watching what I did and trying to repeat my awesome, silky smooth moves!
Anyway, I'm going to Magic about a month after you so I won't be giving you any beta. More likely I'll be going round looking to flash all the stuff you struggled on during your visit. ;)
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great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!
MW starts at 7a, nuff said
then scratch around in the woods? you scratch around in the woods for every problem, it's not called magic fields.
MW does not start at 7a
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then scratch around in the woods? you scratch around in the woods for every problem, it's not called magic fields.
MW does not start at 7a
:lol: Quality response. Thank you, very much appreciated.
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great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!
MW starts at 7a, nuff said
then scratch around in the woods? you scratch around in the woods for every problem, it's not called magic fields.
MW does not start at 7a
Dense, you seem to be remarkably touchy about this issue ?
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To be fair to dense, it would be quicker to list the subjects he wasn't touchy about.
Although to be fair to Norton Sharley, dense's climbing is consistently abysmal at Magic Grades. You can see it in his little face. He so wants to bag those gimmes, but he's always thwarted by Jim's greasy hand and smug successes. Or a bout of hives. Poor fucker.
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am not touchy at all about it. what can i say? there are a load of good probs under 7a. i am not happy that the last 2 statements rhyme but i shall leave them in
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i am not happy that the last 2 statements rhyme but i shall leave them in
Don't worry, we won't think any worse of you.
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am not touchy at all about it. what can i say? there are a load of good probs under 7a. i am not happy that the last 2 statements rhyme but i shall leave them in
why don't you just go eat some hay, you can make things out of clay, or lay by the bay. Whaddaya say?
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Is there a new guide for Magic Wood, or is the Blocheart one still current?
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i am not happy that the last 2 statements rhyme but i shall leave them in
Why not leave them in, I don't think it is a sin.
Do you like green eggs and ham?
Do you like them Sam I am?
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Is there a new guide for Magic Wood, or is the Blocheart one still current?
Still the old photocpoied one in the yellow folder that you can get from gasthouse. This is about as up to date as they come. They last did an update November last year it hink.
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Does anybody have the latest topo, that they could scan and e-mail? (Assuming it isn't too many pages!)
Many thanks!
p.s. I have the Blocheart guide, but we may not get to the guest house during our trip :-\
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Hi I'm driving down to Magic Wood tonight and wondered if any one could possibly write out the directions from the bloc heart guidebook or if anyone has a better choice of words to use on which junction to take off the motorway and where to head for. It would be massively appreciated. I did have the guidebook but left it on the roof of my car in all the excitement when I got to Chironico a few months ago! :oops:
Thanks.
Dan
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Sign on motorway is for Avers-Juf.
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Ok, I did a search but didn't find much, so has anyone got any recommendations for easy 7s in the wood?
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Just put a circle around any problem beginning with grade seven and you'll be fine ;)
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Dropzone 7a
Zilliman 7a
Stressman 7a
Marihuanacorner 7a
Heb da Arsch 6c+/7a
Cameltrophy 7a
Blindfisch 7b
Lola Ferrari 7b?
Steppenwolf 8b
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Marijuana Corner
Heb De Arsch
Stressman
Zilliman
Blown Away
Slip Slop Slap
Grit Deluxe
Camel Trophy
Red Roses
Dropzone
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Stressman at 7a felt harder than any 7b in Magic Andi but I'm sure you'll manage :whistle:
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i think protektor is the must-do low 7 in the wood. think it gets 7a+ these days. zilliman is excellent too.
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I'm pretty keen for Supernova, Cote De Seshuan and Piranja in August... are there any other classics you would get on ahead of these 3 in the high 7's/low 8's?
Thinking of having a look at octopussy, nes pt2, muttertag and Jack the Chipper as well as the aforementioned :-\
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supernova is a good first 8b. electricboogie looks ace but is apparently beta heavy. there's a vid somewhere.
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jack the chipper is ok when you've worked out the beta, prob 7b.
Low left start to schneestorm (schne bret?) is pretty good, prob 7c
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If I can get on this medical trials mega bucks thing, I'll be coming with you beast.
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If I can get on this medical trials mega bucks thing,
And that sounds all so kosher and likely to make your fortune Tom. :-\
NB: I'd like to recommend some problems as per the request, but I can't remember many names (and those I can remember have already been mentioned). Sorry.
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Cheers everyone! any more in the 7a+-7b+ range?
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Sudenfall is given 7b+ and is a path, but very good, needs a few extra pads.
Hohenrauch 7b+ - a magic wood classic, again bring lots of pads
Jack the Chipper, as mentioned previously is soft as at 7c and an excellent problem so should be on your list.
La Dance 7b+ - if you can mantel it's ok
Iron Butterfly 7b+ - good long prob with no really hard moves, soft at 7b+
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Jack the Chipper, as mentioned previously is soft as at 7c and an excellent problem so should be on your list.
It already is! Cheers bonners, I'm unbelievably psyched now, being stuck indoors isn't helping matters!
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well to me supernova felt like 8b.
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I think it was with our sequence of ignoring any holds under the lip Lore, then I hear of some beast doing it in good conditions in trainers and said 8a.. harsh! ;)
Does anyone know if Sofa Surfer is a bit low in the grade for 8a+ or is it 7c+/8a nowadays? Saw jennings on fool fighter to the right which looked excellent also. So many good lines, I really hope it doesn't rain ???
p.s. Saw a video of Rhythmo Brachial (sp?) which looked very good but can't see it on the free online topo unless I am blind? Wasn't sure if it was another name for the problem Bodyblade, as it looked a bit like a blade :shrug:
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It's on there you goon, page 6, bloc 164, problem a...
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I think it was with our sequence of ignoring any holds under the lip Lore, then I hear of some beast doing it in good conditions in trainers and said 8a.. harsh! ;)
Does anyone know if Sofa Surfer is a bit low in the grade for 8a+ or is it 7c+/8a nowadays? Saw jennings on fool fighter to the right which looked excellent also. So many good lines, I really hope it doesn't rain ???
p.s. Saw a video of Rhythmo Brachial (sp?) which looked very good but can't see it on the free online topo unless I am blind? Wasn't sure if it was another name for the problem Bodyblade, as it looked a bit like a blade :shrug:
sofa surfa is harddd but we watched a russian world champ come close to doing it in 3 goes. this is also a good bloc for if it rains!
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Shush, it's not going to rain.