UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: slackline on March 25, 2014, 02:12:48 pm
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Bolt failure on lower-off in Dinorwig (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/warning-issued-over-slate-bolts)
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Worth Reading Reeves version as its a bit more moderate
http://lifeinthevertical.co.uk/blogs/blog/2014/03/slate-bolts/ (http://lifeinthevertical.co.uk/blogs/blog/2014/03/slate-bolts/)
The Routes in question have had at a guess over 500 ascents since conception (ukc logbook has 200-300 ascents) so the majority of less travelled routes are still going to be hunky dory (as they ever are in slate).
Basically if they wobble; be very gentle and avoid a direct outward load.... :whistle:
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The problem is though that it only takes one bolt failing to seriously injure or kill somebody; the one's that pull out under low load look identical to the ones that are ok, and the information says the failure mechanism is from repeated static loading i.e. on lower-offs. That suggests that, on slate at least, there's likely to be an ongoing process of outwardly reliable-looking bolts becoming dangerous through everyday use. There's a guy reporting one on ukc on one of the low-grade routes at bus stop.
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I'm going to amend that piece tomorrow, just wanted to get something out there asap.
Mark has been a legend going out and checking and replacing bolts.
So far, some bolts which move have have pulled out at some pretty low loads - Mark has extracted some at 1kN which is pretty shocking. How many of us check bolts for movement before using them?
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I second that Mark is due some waddage. Its worth remembering that the bolts in the quarries have never been in such a good state, and that slate is always a soft touch until you fall off...
A Few stories from my experiences rebolting.
Poetry pink, while replacing bolts the old post crux bolt sheered off with less pressure than opening a Jam jar.
Ditto the pre crux bolt on See you Bruce (my first E3 back when it was bolted more like an E4)
Rebolting the obscure Crook route, the Reclining Bloon I experienced the Home made nick walton bolt, a coil of sheet metal around a bolt that wiggled out by hand.
Going to rebolt the ILLJ route at the watford gap Suspension of disbelief, only to discover that every bolt was in a detached sheet only 10cm thick.
The Burning at Looning the tube, a rare over hanging route where every sling I threaded through the old hangers ripped through and I had to bolt off sky hooks.
The Vast majority of rebolts were done with 12mm bolts and resins, and we haven't had any problems with these yet, so hopefully there's less to worry about than the bad old days.. Its some of the new wave lowgrade sport that breathed a lot of life back into the quarry that have been suffering, but the adventures out there are still definately adventures, and maybe a little safer too..
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Thanks to all involved in bolting and re-bolting the slate quarries over the years and to come.
Guess I started this in the wrong sub-forum.
I suggest merging with this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23925.0.html).