UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: 205Chris on March 09, 2014, 04:08:23 pm
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These may well have been done before but there's no mention of them on Peak Bouldering / anywhere else that I can see.
Above Big Girls Brow there is an obvious prow. As with everything at the crag it's very green and took a bit of cleaning. I've named the problems after the 2 green aliens in the Simpsons, grades may vary slightly.
Kang 6b: Climb the right side of the arete from a sit start with left hand on the obvious low jug / right hand on arete. Finish by mantelling out the nose.
Kodos 7a: Start as for Kang but move left and climb the left side of the arete. It's like a 7a version of Tetris. The small foot block is in at this grade. It should be possible without it but will be a fair but harder. Unfortunately this side of the arete gets a lot of drainage so needs a few dry days.
I've got some video I'll try and post up later.
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Two from the Q on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/88586095)
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Nice chris! I've had a play on both of these. Didn't think anyone would head up there with enough motivation to do them any time soon!
We climbed the right side of the prow but rocked over onto the slab rather than tackling the nose direct (BonJoy had already climbed something pretty similar and given it 4+ so we didn't report our efforts! http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=222986 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=222986)). You way looks good fun.
I'm impressed with the right side of the prow. Thought it would be a touch harder than 7a but then I think I struggled to reach that LH crimp round the corner. Good work.
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Cheers! Good conditions there this morning. I did the right hand line a month or so ago as a filler in while waiting for the left line to dry. Not surprised that it's been done before.
The left hand line is really good. Along with the stuff on the Big Girl's Brow block it's turning into a decent location for the mid-7s climber.
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Nice one Chris, I always though the LH one looked a quality 7. It is a bit of a mini Tetris now you mention it. BTW it was Bolehillbilly who did a version of the RH line. I've never actually climbed on that block. Wind Shark still filthy I assume?
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nice, doing without the foot block reminds me of a little papillon in font
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Great stuff. I had the left hand side down as a decent looking project, good to see it done.
From memory I started the right line on the crimps and then rolled over onto the slab without the left hand arête. A bit defunct now - your way looks much better.
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Nice one Chris, I always though the LH one looked a quality 7. It is a bit of a mini Tetris now you mention it. BTW it was Bolehillbilly who did a version of the RH line. I've never actually climbed on that block. Wind Shark still filthy I assume?
Cheers. Must admit I didn't look at Wind Shark on that visit but I'd assume it's still green.
The Big Girl's Brow block on the other hand seems to be getting enough traffic to stay clean. Let's hope it stays that way.
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Wind shark was well green when I went around xmas.
How did you clean it Bonjoy? Did you use a wire brush (would that be acceptable?) or just a stiff brush when it was wet. Or do you have another method?
On a related note. I discovered that shooting is not allowed on sundays, so prob the best day to visit if you are going in season (12th aug to end of Feb, i think).
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just a stiff brush when it was wet
This works better than anything else in my experience. Wood-bristled brushes from hardware stores are the best.
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I use different methods according to the rock, the lichen and the conditions on the day. TBH I can't remember the details for WS. For a reclean ideally you want to catch it when the green is fluffy but neither overdry or overwet. When it's fluffy you can easity brush it off with any stiff bristle. If it's too wet or dry you can still get a clean result using copious amounts of water and any brush. It does mean you have to wait awhile before it's climbable obviously. The advantage with this is that it totally removes the green so it stays clear for a lot longer.
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Has anyone been up here recently. Was thinking of heading up sunday and wondered if it was mossy or green
Cheers
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Been today and brushed up the 2 main blocks. Was good conditions with the winds...