UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Nibile on January 30, 2014, 02:07:30 pm
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http://www.t-nation.com/training/sprinting-for-muscle (http://www.t-nation.com/training/sprinting-for-muscle)
In this article sprinting is advised for muscle growth - along with weights - fat loss and greater overall force output.
Could it be useful for bouldering? Especially at the end of the warmup, to recruit full body?
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We had a corporate event at the sports village here, and I did the sprint (probably the first time I've sprinted competitively in 30 plus years). 3 results; I was breathing so hard at the last 20 m I had to slow down as it felt like I was having a heart attack, I nearly threw up at the end and the next day my thighs were so sore I could hardly stand. So could probably only be a good thing, esp for anaerobic stuff.
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They advise sprinting for very short distances.
I'll give it a try one of these days. Maybe good for weekends, with lots of time. Warm up, a few sprints, the bouldering on the board.
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I do quite a lot of sprint work on my bike however I'm still weak and fat. Does this mean that if I ever stop doing them I will be even weaker and fatter.
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WHat kind of sprinting are you talking about? Running or something translating to climbing? A coach/trainr I know from denver uses speed jumping pullups as part of his routine. They're brutal. Just get a pullup bar set a couple inches above your head(not straight arm), and do as many jumping pullups as you can in 30 seconds. Destroyed me when I did them. no fun either....
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I read somewhere recently (can't remember where unfortunately) that sprinting for 30 seconds a week is enough to give a lot of the benefits of regular running. I can't see how it wouldn't at least be a good warm up. Still haven't done it though.
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I'm talking about running sprints. They're hard because you have to keep composure otherwise you lose limbs. Bike sprints are less engaging I think.
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Although most running track sprinters are heavily muscled. I would reckon that cycle sprinting uses more muscle groups. As for retaining your composure, I wouldn't want to lose mine in a bunch sprint.
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I did a lot of hill sprints when training for a half marathon the other year, and that was certainly good training packed into a short time.
c.50m ish hill of your choice, light jog down, sprint back up. Repeat.
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Although most running track sprinters are heavily muscled. I would reckon that cycle sprinting uses more muscle groups.
Bull + :shit:
:boxing:
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Could it be useful for bouldering? Especially at the end of the warmup, to recruit full body?
IMO, no it wouldn't be useful, and not really the recruitment you want. Sprinting is heavily quad based, and I would think you'd want to activate your posterior chain more than the anterior.
That said, I grew up playing high level soccer(footy) and can still run a sub 1min 400, and close to a sub 5sec 40m. Hence my heavier weight and non-chicken legs...
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Fwiw I'm in training for a never to be repeated trip of a lifetime to whistler bike park... And a core element of my training is sprints / anaerobic interval shock sessions to get me better when cardio redlining... Example being a 40 sec BMX pump track with 3 table jumps... Repeated, with minor tricks ( cross ups and occasiional whips)... 22 in 44 mins.
I do this every week.
I'm despondent I'm not sore after, but near throw up every time. I do it once a week. I've blacked out once..
My Tri mates are resolute it will stop me plateauing in my other training. how this translates to bouldering I have no idea...
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According to the article, hamstrings are the dominant muscle group in sprint.
I can see a big posterior chain activation: calves, hamstrings, glutes, lower back, posterior delts, trap.
I'd like to try sprinting before a bouldering session, mostly to buy some lycra trackies, some fluo sprint shoes and to go around the 'hood like a bad motherfucker. Yo.
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You need a Jamaican gangster salute to camera from the starting blocks too.
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You could give it a go (as well as a chance to get some fly kit) its not going to take long to try.
I fucking love sprinting - its proper full on try as hard as you can go all out for a short time. Its like bouldering. Try as hard as you can for a short time. My sort of sport
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Although most running track sprinters are heavily muscled. I would reckon that cycle sprinting uses more muscle groups.
Bull + :shit:
:boxing:
What are you basing this on. I would reckon that Sir Chris Hoy could sort out Usain Bolt.
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I don't know about a fight, but to me it seems that both sports engage lots of muscles, but cycle sprint has less of lower back, shoulders and biceps activation, also because the range of motion in the running sprint is much bigger, and this must mean something.
Also, the rebound off the floor must develop very very high force outputs.
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What he said.
Also, google tells me Bolt is 10cm taller and 1kg heavier. That extra kg is probably arm muscles, so my money's on him.
:smart:
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If you've seen any footage of Sir Chris on the weights you might change your mind. Also Usain appears to train with Fiend at mcdonalds so I reckon he's pretty flabby in real life.
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Update, again apart from cardio fitness dunno how useful for bouldering...
Did my first run in 6 weeks today, into 35 mph sleet and freezing rain ( felt freed from life's burdens after), but... Very very interestingly... Now I'm over my last chest infection... And 6 sessions of my BMX track intervals it felt like near cheating. My bad, didn't use my gps timing watch.. But I didn't get near the red zone, kept in the green... ( no lactate rise) and it felt easy...
Don't know what is specific for bouldering, but if you want more cardio ability, use some sort of intervals to improve your lactate threshold... My Tri mates were right... and it's a very worthwhile use of time...
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Nonono, no cardio, no nothing longer than 20/30 meters, full red zone, max speed possible.
Did 5 sprints yesterday evening before a quick session on the board. Felt very very strong.
This could have been also because of a rest day on Friday and sleeping until 12 on Sunday.
Plus, now I have a pair of black lycra trackies with a fluo stripe on the sides, and some brand new Nike, grey and fluo.
I am quite sure I am the fastest man on Earth.
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And the answer is: "Yes, I am an idiot."
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3769/12266984433_d92488e530.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12266984433/)
speed (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12266984433/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3794/12266815445_e77bd3effd.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12266815445/)
speed (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12266815445/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/12266971363_e065be24a7.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12266971363/)
speed (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/12266971363/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
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This could have been also because of a rest day on Friday and sleeping until 12 on SATURDAY.
Sorry.
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Anaerobic, right? Could be good for me. Keep us posted on non-scientific anecdotal results :2thumbsup:
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I've heard it all now. :clap2:
Maybe Sprints is how Ondra has been getting so strong - no one would have guessed, sneaky!
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Nibile,
You look a lot like Bolt
No, not the runner, the other one.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/4/44/Bolt_ver2.jpg)
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8)
I am fully awesome indeed.
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I've heard it all now. :clap2:
Maybe Sprints is how Ondra has been getting so strong - no one would have guessed, sneaky!
This is the mother of all generalizations.
First of all, Ondra isn't strong. And even if he were, he surely became so by climbing full on, full time, from the age of 6 or so.
This doesn't mean that we, mere mortals, can't benefit from some extra work to be added to the deadhangs, system, bouldering and PE that we already do.
If I had time, I'd also lift heavy, but while a gym session needs at least a couple of hours, with sprints I was done in 30 minutes, warm up included.
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Something a bit more science-based, for whoever is interested in giving it a try.
http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/par46.htm (http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/par46.htm)
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... and something else about low intensity cardio and sprints.
http://www.t-nation.com/training/regular-cardio-will-make-you-fat (http://www.t-nation.com/training/regular-cardio-will-make-you-fat)