UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: as646 on January 26, 2014, 12:15:36 am
-
I'm just curious; if you climb 8A, how long did it take you to get to that point?
Is it a reasonable goal to set to go from 6C to 8A in 2 years?
-
I don't know are you a fat bastard? If so this will take longer than if you're a skinny fuck
-
I'm a skinny fuck and it took me 3 years to get from 7A to 7B+...
-
Certainly not a fat bastard, but I'm not exactly light at ~82 kg.
-
I assume you've asked the question cos you're relatively new to climbing. 82kg is heavy for a climber, whether you're in proportion or not. There's no getting away from weight whatever other people say. You'll prob be loads better on burly open handed probs, as a general rule than vertical crimpy horror shows. Depending on where you live and what type of training climbing you're doing will dictate your style preferences more often than not. Then you get into the can of worms over what is actually an 8a, which out of a survey of 4 one will always disagree
-
i'd say age is the most important factor (after genetics).
if your 15, you have a shot.
if your 30 and try to progress like that, the odds are you'll injure yourself
-
Motivation is key, he is are you?
Still as true today as when we first crawled out of swamps
-
Also depends on whether the 6c start grade is a true reflection of your inherent ability. I got into routes 2 years ago and went from 7a/+ to 8a(ish) over 2 seasons of sessions at Malham and Kilnsey (to 7b+/7c over the first season). I'm in my mid-30's and never train or even climb midweek - just weekends. But the start grade was possibly somewhat artificially low - before then my route climbing had been limited 3 weeks a year of trying to on-sight stuff in Spain and the odd indoor session when rained off a trad weekend. But, since I could boulder F7b+ with a predilection for long crimpy traverses, taking to RPing routes wasn't entirely unforeseen. I suspect a lot of my "improvement" has been mental and strategic rather then physical: learning how much further I can climb when feeling boxed, trying to get used to falling (still terrible at that), RP tactics (it's remarkable how much energy I used to waste trying to equip and strip routes). I'm not sure if I'm physically much better (my on-sight grade has only shifted up a grade or so).
So whilst, 6c to 8a might be a stretch, I reckon if you're young, dedicated, and can already boulder pretty well (or get into bouldering to build a good base of power) you could rocket through the grades. You can go a long way just by shedding incompetent habits... and there's no harm in trying.
-
Bouldering grades hadn't reach the UK when I started climbing. Plus I spent years doing routes and/or pissing about not doing much. Your question kind of assumes a new climber sets progression to their maximum bouldering grade as a goal from day one. Maybe that's what kid do these days. No wonder so many seem chained to a finger board.
-
To the OP: 6 1/2 years from starting climbing, or 8 if you don't count traverses. But then it was probably 2 1/2 years after starting that I did my first 6C (not that I did any bouldering, it would have been as part of a route), and whilst I started bouldering a lot after about 3 1/2 years climbing (when I moved to Sheffield) it's never been my focus for improvement so much as routes.
As an aside, I've met numerous people who've got very taken by a goal of climbing grade x (usually 8a route or 8A boulder) within y years of starting climbing, and whether they've achieved it or not I don't recall seeing any of them still climbing and being psyched years down the line.
-
Power endurance 8A's are more achievable cos a: you don't need to be anywhere near as strong b:you can break them down and grind them out. But some people will say it's not proper bouldering....
Took me 3/4 years from starting bouldering seriously
-
Some interesting food for thought.
I've been climbing just over a year, so I suppose I'm still fairly new and bright eyed. I don't really have the intention of grade chasing, I know this is a very one dimensional and shallow way of measuring progress and approaching climbing. I come from a background of competitive sport, so even though I love climbing for the sake of climbing, I find it quite difficult to escape from that mentality.
One of the guys I climb with used to be sponsored before he took a "hiatus", and what he has said mirrors what is being said in this thread, that becoming so obsessed with climbing better, stronger, harder completely sapped his motivation and he got to the point where he just became disinterested in it.
That said, adding a bit of structure to my climbing can't hurt, and I've always found goals actually motivate myself. Perhaps I just need to set a more realistic short-term goal
-
Nothing wrong with working your way up through the grades.. But I'm not sure setting a timescale for it works.. Progression is rarely linear (from person to person - and by one person).
-
It's not a matter of time, it's a matter of dedication.
If you want to tick 8a you can (easily) do it by dedicating all your time to just one problem that suits you. Other thing is if you want to be somehow consistent at the grade.
-
I went from projecting 8A (last one Biceps Power at Can Boquet) in 2010 to failing to onsight an indoor, 10m, 6c, this Friday last. And all it took was not finding the time to train, training too hard (when time was found) resulting in injury, not climbing outdoors and going from 74kg to 84.7kg.
So...
3 years is enough to make a 4 grade difference to your climbing.
Perhaps if you tried the exact opposite of my gruelling regime, you may have a shot...
-
Took roughly around 3/4 year's for me. Starting off just climbing loads at the wall and outside for the first 2 years then started training more on a board and that brought the biggest gains. I started at 18 and I am now 24 and have always weighed rougly 58kg so that could be classed as cheating :).
-
Why do you want to try and put a timescale on it? 8A isn't the be all and end all after all. Why not aim for 8C? Think long term and you're likely to reach the higher grades and be consistent at those grades. Basically, what Nibile said and then some. I wouldn't worry about specific training to try and force grade improvement just yet either. You won't be failing because you're piss weak even if you are piss weak. Just go and climb as much as possible at different walls/crags and try fucking hard and you'll improve faster. The amount of time it takes you will also be influenced hugely by previous sport/training experience too.
So to answer the question: yes, 6C - 8A is possible in two years, by all means go for it, I don't think there's anything wrong with trying to push yourself. But don't get hung up on the timescale, there's no shortcuts.
-
Amuses me that folk pass comment on your weight without knowing your height.
It took me about 18 years, but the only training I did (pullups) was to get from VS to E1 at about year 7.
-
Nothing wrong with working your way up through the grades.. But I'm not sure setting a timescale for it works..
This is what I was getting at. I love trying to improve and grade chasing, my anecdote was more about those who are very focused on a timescale. Good post from Ben too
-
Don't worry Johnny as soon as I posted about the weight I realised I hadn't mentioned height but couldn't be bothered mentioning it again since I couldn't think of a single person who weighs 82kgs who has climbed 8A, at that weight. Apart from willenburg, lamprecht but they're massive human beings. I'm sure there are others but very few and far between so for the general populous I refrained from adding.
-
And ignore Johnny McClure, going up and down a Bachar ladder 3 times a wk is training
-
I'm 24 and about 1.85 m tall for what it's worth.
-
For what it's worth I'm English so have no idea what 1.85m means ;)
-
I'm a Scorpio and like thrash metal and kittens.
-
I did my first 8A aged 30 after having started climbing at 16 so I guess it took me 14 years. I largely ditched the trad at weekends when I was 23 (rightly or wrongly depending on your point of view) allowing more focus on sport climbing/ bouldering. I had 2 years off training in my mid twenties when I went back to college to change career/ retrain. When I resumed proper training aged 28, it took me 2.5 years to get to 8A.
If I had only bouldered I reckon I could have got to 8A a lot quicker but sport climbing and trad get in the way as they require different skillsets/ training methods. I personally reckon people who exclusively boulder are missing out on a lot as I find sport climbing more memorable and rewarding in the long term but that is a separate debate!
-
It's horses for courses then as I'm also called Tom ( but just once ) also a Scorpio but I'm not a fan of thrash metal and I'm allergic to cats.
-
I was 38 when I did my first 8A, but only 22(?) when I did my first 8a... But only 74 Kg at 1.83m. Started climbing in 1978. You work it out, just makes me feel old.
-
took me almost exactly 4 years from my first time climbing to boulder 8A.
I think I did my first 6C about a year and a half after I started so 2 and a half year for 6C-8A.
I started at 19 and I'm a lanky sod (6ft 2' whatever that is in meters). Also I've always been pretty skinny.
-
Personally I'd say if you're bouldering 6C after only a year, that's pretty good.
I've been bouldering about 2 times a week for the last er... 5 years, and have only just started to get 6B's with any regularity. But this is based purely on my local wall's grading (I flashed 6C recently at another wall - yay!), which is roughly inline with my outdoor grade.
Recently I've started regularly (ish) going 3 times a week and the difference is immense. Stronger, better flow, more tenacity...
So basically I think if I'd applied myself more, I would be a lot better than I am. But I don't really mind as I still love it, and do lots of other things as well as bouldering, so would't want to focus just on climbing.
In summary: Anything is possible, depending on your motivation.
-
i've only bouldered 7C+ although one 8A felt doable before this christmas (curious how it feels now, after holiday feasting and a prolonged hiatus from rock due to shitty weather).
took me 15 years (started @16, i'm 31) although my first 6C should have been 7 yrs ago, and i've only really focused on bouldering in the last 5 yrs.
Apart from that my progress has been slow and relatively steady with occasional accelerations and slow downs.
Overall i've been much slower than most of my climbing peers but in the long run i've outperformed several of them since injuries or loss/shift of interests stopped them.
from my perspective you are the most qualified person in this forum to say if you can achieve grade x in time y.
The only advice i can give from my perspective is to be careful with big and abstract objectives such as this. It is ok to keep them in the back of your head as a dream that may (or may not) come true and they will definitely fire your motivation levels up if and when you will feel realistically close... but most of the time it is much easier to deal with shorter-term, concrete objectives (eg make a mental list of problems graded you'd like to climb this season or the next, 6B-7B. Pick the monthly objectives from the list depending on current shape and weather).
also, abstract objectives such as grades may not be that rewarding when you finally reach them.
I feel that a lot with routes, where i've definitely had the objective to climb the grade 8a : ironically my most vivid and rewarding memories are about slighly easier routes (7c/+) that i perceived as having a special status, or that i've climbed in special circumstances.
When i think about 8a/+ routes, my fist thoughts are about those i haven't finished or tried yet, even though the two i've managed are by no means crap routes.
-
Based on the immense and highly accurate knowledge base accumulated here at UKB, it will take you somewhere between 282 days and 1,4768,987,376 days to climb 8A. When you do you will weight somewhere between 30.2 and 182.6kgs. You will be able to deadlift approximately 1.84 x BW. Additionally, you will have experienced an average of 1.43 injuries per year.
:smartass:
-
Based on the immense and highly accurate knowledge base accumulated here at UKB, it will take you somewhere between 282 days and 1,4768,987,376 days to climb 8A. When you do you will weight somewhere between 30.2 and 182.6kgs. You will be able to deadlift approximately 1.84 x BW. Additionally, you will have experienced an average of 1.43 injuries per year.
:smartass:
The real sad part about this is...
It's true.
-
Ask a amiguous question, and get a perfect answer. It how we do it :)
In honesty for the first two questions: I started climbing in 1995, and did my first 8A in 2002. I didn't do another 8A until 2011.
Probably not. My gut says the OP has climbed 6C in the gym, and is really excited by how quickly they got there. The subset of the climbing population that is UB, has a relatively higher proportion of obsessive dedicated climbers who really like to climb and climb hard, and the subset of that group that went from 6C to 8A in two years is probably less than 5%. So What're the odds that the OP can do so. VERY SLIM, but yes its possible.
Perhaps if the OP gave us a few more details, we'd be able to give a better answer. For example:
How long have you been climbing? where? how often?
What's your background in other sports/activities?
What's your lifestyle allow for in terms of time/freedom to climb, etc.?
What's your access to training facilities? Climbing areas? etc.
-
When I was 17 or 18, I climbed with a guy Mark who progressed really quickly:
He went from starting climbing to:
- First 8b sport red point within 2 years
- First 8A boulder within 2.5 years
But he was amazingly talented, and had all of the following:
- He had been a competitive slalom kayaker from a young age and to a very high level.
- He had good genes - his brother was Kayaking World Cup champ, and an Olympic silver medallist at the Sydney Olympics).
- He had the highest natural finger strength I have ever seen.
- He had a training mentality, and trained really hard.
- He built a 45 board at home.
- He was naturally light (under 65 kilos).
So, yes it's certainly possible if you are lucky enough to:
a.) have good genes
b.) enjoy training really hard
c.) not get injured
-
a.) have good genes
b.) enjoy training really hard
c.) not get injured
d.) have enough time...
-
I'm packing 7.5" and I haven't crushed 8A yet :'(
-
started when i was 19, Ht: 5ft 11in Weight: 59-65Kg, went from nil to 7C+ 3 years, then my elbows both broke. haven't been able to climb properly since October 2013 :/
-
Obviously I'm not expecting a definitive answer, I understand that a: it's an incredibly naive question, and b: there is no "answer" as such. That said, it's nice to see that I get such a range of diverse replies regardless. I can't imagine what kind of responses I'd get if I asked this on UKC.
I've mostly pulled on plastic, comes with living in London, but have done plenty of climbing in Font, the Peak and N Wales (where my parents live). I'm actually moving up to Sheffield in 2 weeks, where I will be, er, partially-employed until I start a Masters in September. So I will have a lot of time to climb. Also I have an extremely obsessive personality and love to geek out on training science. So I'm really psyched for the next couple of months.
I'm not overly keen on thrash metal either, but I do like kittens.
-
When I was 17 or 18, I climbed with a guy Mark who progressed really quickly:
He went from starting climbing to:
- First 8b sport red point within 2 years
- First 8A boulder within 2.5 years
But he was amazingly talented, and had all of the following:
- He had been a competitive slalom kayaker from a young age and to a very high level.
- He had good genes - his brother was Kayaking World Cup champ, and an Olympic silver medallist at the Sydney Olympics).
- He had the highest natural finger strength I have ever seen.
- He had a training mentality, and trained really hard.
- He built a 45 board at home.
There's a group of people who are like that. They're called jammy fuckers
-
I'm packing 7.5" and I haven't crushed 8A yet :'(
That's under performing for man with good genes.
-
Obviously I'm not expecting a definitive answer, I understand that a: it's an incredibly naive question, and b: there is no "answer" as such. That said, it's nice to see that I get such a range of diverse replies regardless. I can't imagine what kind of responses I'd get if I asked this on UKC.
I've mostly pulled on plastic, comes with living in London, but have done plenty of climbing in Font, the Peak and N Wales (where my parents live). I'm actually moving up to Sheffield in 2 weeks, where I will be, er, partially-employed until I start a Masters in September. So I will have a lot of time to climb. Also I have an extremely obsessive personality and love to geek out on training science. So I'm really psyched for the next couple of months.
I'm not overly keen on thrash metal either, but I do like kittens.
Good luck. It seems like you'll have alot of the pre-reqs in place to make some big strides in the next 7-8 months, so re-assess then. Also the masters program could make a big impact on both training and getting outside.
-
I'm packing 7.5" and I haven't crushed 8A yet :'(
That's under performing for man with good genes.
Reckon that's kinda small for a pair of genes...
-
Thinking about it it took about ten years.
I do reckon that pushing hard bouldering in your youth is a poor long term strategy if you hope to do a range of types of climbing and remain doing it for a long time without moving country. As you get older and more strapped for time (as seems to be one of the truly universal laws of existence) you find that bouldering becomes easier to fit round your life and leading becomes harder. If you've already rinsed all your local bouldering then you might be in a bit of a bind.
However given that another truly universal law of existence is that youths always ignore good advice from grumpy old gits then I probably just wasted 5mins of my lunch break.
-
Word, especially if you are Peak based with so much amazing sport and trad readily accessible. Seems a somewhat reductionist (is that the right word) approach? Taking a long, narrow path which can easily lead to a dead end and one with injury potential lurking at every turn.
Unless you are a bullet proof, single minded individual with a very low boredom threshold.
-
Some of the replies are a bit -ve. There's nothing wrong with wanting to achieve 8A in x years. If you're building the pyramid of lower grade outdoor climbs as you go then it's not going to be a boring journey. Perfectly possible as well without any fingerboarding at all up to around 7C.
-
Perfectly possible as well without any fingerboarding at all up to around 7C.
Fingerboards were invented after 8As, ergo.... :whistle:
-
I've never used a fingerboard.
a.) have good genes
b.) enjoy training really hard
c.) not get injured
d.) have enough time...
...and, presumably, some sort of supportive community around you offering good advice/ beta/ exemplars. I just about got to Uk 6a over ten years living in the sticks and with a copy of Fawcett on Rock as my guru. As soon as I started climbing with a group of equal or better climbers, things really moved on, not so much top end but in breadth of ability. Just being around people who don't consider such climbs impossible made a big difference.
-
my tuppence on this is limited but what i can say is that since starting a masters ive found my life to be much more regimented and as a result my climbing has become so too. trips to the wall are a useful reward for certain amounts of work done and if you wanted to get monastic about it you can pair academic and climbing results together and really focus on the whole thing as a general exercise in self improvement.
-
Thanks for that Johnny I'm touched
-
Your optimism when choosing a project is an inspiration to us all Dense.
-
Perfectly possible as well without any fingerboarding at all up to around 7C.
Fingerboards were invented after 8As, ergo.... :whistle:
Good point, I was just speaking from personal experience which at present does not include anything above my 7C glass ceiling!
-
I was 38 when I did my first 8A, but only 22(?) when I did my first 8a... But only 74 Kg at 1.83m. Started climbing in 1978. You work it out, just makes me feel old.
Which font 8A out of interest?
-
I'm getting really confused...is it font 8A or font 8a?
I could have sworn that font grades had lower case (as the 7&8 guides and all other Fontainebleau guidebooks I can lay my hands on) and French sport used capitals. Is it just me or are they interchangeable these days?
Font 8a took me 5 seconds to climb aged 49 years. French sport 8A took me a minute and a half aged 48 years (thats if I can count a boulder traverse). When it stops raining I might climb a route.
-
I'm getting really confused...is it font 8A or font 8a?
I could have sworn that font grades had lower case (as the 7&8 guides and all other Fontainebleau guidebooks I can lay my hands on) and French sport used capitals. Is it just me or are they interchangeable these days?
Font 8a took me 5 seconds to climb aged 49 years. French sport 8A took me a minute and a half aged 48 years (thats if I can count a boulder traverse). When it stops raining I might climb a route.
err.. I was under the impression that 8A was a font grade and 8a a french sport climbing grade...
-
I'm getting really confused...is it font 8A or font 8a?
I could have sworn that font grades had lower case (as the 7&8 guides and all other Fontainebleau guidebooks I can lay my hands on) and French sport used capitals. Is it just me or are they interchangeable these days?
Font 8a took me 5 seconds to climb aged 49 years. French sport 8A took me a minute and a half aged 48 years (thats if I can count a boulder traverse). When it stops raining I might climb a route.
err.. I was under the impression that 8A was a font grade and 8a a french sport climbing grade...
I've just checked, the 7&8 is lower case, the JG purple guide is lower case and so is bleau.info. Is their anything more definitive?
-
I think capitalisation is a fairly recent convention, so older guidebooks will be unlikely to use it. Recent guidebooks might not bother either - there's not generally much need to differentiate between font and sport grade in a dedicated bouldering guidebook. It's pretty useful on the internet though.
The grades in this [Fontainebleau] system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in upper-case letters (e.g. "8B+" vs. "8b+").
-
The old peak bouldering, uses lower case, as does Bouldering in Ireland, e-bloc. Maybe I'm just nostalgic for the differentiation.
-
It's a very recent convention, seems to have been invented for the internet where the context is often missing. Makes sense but I'm not sure capitalised grades will ever look right to me.
-
I think capitalisation is a fairly recent convention, so older guidebooks will be unlikely to use it. Recent guidebooks might not bother either - there's not generally much need to differentiate between font and sport grade in a dedicated bouldering guidebook. It's pretty useful on the internet though.
The grades in this [Fontainebleau] system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8A boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in upper-case letters (e.g. "8B+" vs. "8b+").
I agree otherwise you have to prefix every mention of 8a/A with 'font' or 'sport'.
-
I was 38 when I did my first 8A, but only 22(?) when I did my first 8a... But only 74 Kg at 1.83m. Started climbing in 1978. You work it out, just makes me feel old.
Which font 8A out of interest?
It was Biceps power. Though I'd never claim anything over 7B as truly "got"coz I'm the scrappiest of climbers and good at ignoring the odd dab...
It was nicely thuggy, which suits me. Took about three months of three afternoons a week...
Came close on the traverse of the big Boulder at Savasonna too, but never had the stamina to link the whole thing :(
I did try and pull on to the Dagger a couple years later.
Couldn't and failed to make any significant progress on the few 7C's I tried with the DMM lads.
Started to get some strength back, later that year and was making good progress on some of the Saddle Tor problems but as you know, I lost interest for a while...
To the OP... I own and run a climbing wall. I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45. Last Wednesday was the first time I put my shoes on since. I'm feeling stronger already, and finnishing V5 and 6 problems already...
-
I think people need to accept that not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on. :worms:
If you're going to have an objective why not just say you want to climb the hardest that you can, that way if you apply yourself with a zen like purpose and absolute dedication and 'only' reach 7c+ you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.
I found this out trying to shave 19 seconds off my personal best for 10k, blood sweat and tears and a I never acheived it, much better if I'd just said to my self I'm never going to have another race like my PB and move on (in my case to getting fat)
-
I was 38 when I did my first 8A, but only 22(?) when I did my first 8a... But only 74 Kg at 1.83m. Started climbing in 1978. You work it out, just makes me feel old.
Which font 8A out of interest?
It was Biceps power. Though I'd never claim anything over 7B as truly "got"coz I'm the scrappiest of climbers and good at ignoring the odd dab...
It was nicely thuggy, which suits me. Took about three months of three afternoons a week...
Came close on the traverse of the big Boulder at Savasonna too, but never had the stamina to link the whole thing :(
I did try and pull on to the Dagger a couple years later.
Couldn't and failed to make any significant progress on the few 7C's I tried with the DMM lads.
Started to get some strength back, later that year and was making good progress on some of the Saddle Tor problems but as you know, I lost interest for a while...
To the OP... I own and run a climbing wall. I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45. Last Wednesday was the first time I put my shoes on since. I'm feeling stronger already, and finnishing V5 and 6 problems already...
Completely failed to make the point I was intending in either of those posts.
My point was...
You don't know until you try.
You will reach a certain level, beyond which progress will become much harder. But where that point is, depends on you and your dedication/talent/etc (or in my case, a specific problem).
And in the end, Sloper is right (damn it!).
-
not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on
you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.
I can hear Hayek creaking away in the background
-
not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on
you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.
I can hear Hayek creaking away in the background
hayek, lama und fischhuber. The famous austrian school.
-
I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.
Damn. During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise? I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.
-
I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.
Damn. During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise? I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.
No..
I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.
-
I really hurt the rotator cuff a couple of times-needed arm in a sling at one point. It got better. I'm sure yours will too, frustrating while it mends tho :(
-
not everyone can climb 8a or indeed 7a for that matter regardless as to their motivation, dedication, training and so on
you can still chalk that up as success and be proud of yourself rather than chasing an ephemeral dream that will only ever result in failure.
I can hear Hayek creaking away in the background
I'd seek specialist help if you can hear that.
-
I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.
Brutal. Sounds a lot like mine except with one arm negatives instead of crosses. But could also have been the big chunks of steel I was lugging around all day before going climbing, and probably wasn't helped by getting bugger all sleep before that. :slap:
Mine wasn't actually the rotator cuff, although I thought it was at first. It also didn't sort itself out, it needed a good physio to do it. And it still clicks, but the physio says not to worry about that. If it doesn't improve and you want physio recommendations feel free to hit me up.
-
Also, on the actual thread topic, I'd like to think that my shoulder being fucked for the past few years is the reason I haven't climbed 8A, but actually it's taken me the best part of a decade to get to about 6C so I'll probably never climb anywhere near 8A, despite the tangent weight thread revealing that I'm close to the ideal height and weight to do so. Started too late, crap genes, injury-prone, never done any deadlifting... 7A at some point in the next couple years would be nice.
-
36 years and counting ...
-
I like thrash metal and kittens, but am a Leo. Does that help??
-
I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.
Damn. During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise? I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.
No..
I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.
Any idea what it was specifically that did it?
I've been thinking of starting to try and work towards the iron cross, but somewhat hesitant for fear of injuring myself much in the same way you did. I suppose if you take it really slowly by and large you should be able to avoid most issues though? I do a fair amount of training on the rings anyway, with the aim of eventually getting a v-sit, and I still haven't been able to get a front lever!
-
I like thrash metal and kittens, but am a Leo. Does that help??
I'm not sure fiend, cos i like thrash metal and kittens too, but am a scorpio
took me about 14 years to do my first font 8a, but had climbed 7c and 7c+ pretty early on. didn't progress any further until i had less time to train and climb on rock (and go on trips etc. which i had had many of when i was younger), so trained a little smarter.
there are many different styles of problem out there, so i'm sure you could find something suitable to aim for.
-
I shagged my rotator cuff in October, because I thought I'd like to do the Iron cross on the rings before I hit 45.
Damn. During an iron cross attempt or some related training exercise? I'd quite like to do an iron cross at some point but I've only just got a normally functioning shoulder back for the first time in years so now maybe isn't the time to dive into that.
No..
I was fine on the night. I actually felt quite good and thought I'd push out an extra set of half crosses at the end of my session, but came to failure at much lower reps than I'd expected. Stretched out as normal.
Woke up the next morning in agony. Worst movement was trying to point at something, or reaching for something.
Now really struggling with dips and anything dynamic.
And just plain scared.
Still clicks like a bastard too.
Any idea what it was specifically that did it?
I've been thinking of starting to try and work towards the iron cross, but somewhat hesitant for fear of injuring myself much in the same way you did. I suppose if you take it really slowly by and large you should be able to avoid most issues though? I do a fair amount of training on the rings anyway, with the aim of eventually getting a v-sit, and I still haven't been able to get a front lever!
Honestly not sure.
I'd had shoulder issues in the past, which had faded away.
But I'd had a long layoff from training/climbing (ironically because I was too busy building a climbing wall...) and hadn't started into serious training until the end of August. I'd been doing that DPM "the one workout every climber should do" as a warm up.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/one-workout-every-climber-should-do
Which is my main route to regaining stability now.
I would, by the way, call myself a 7A/B climber. That's usually and achievable problem in a single session (with notable exceptions, I have never been able to repeat Ripple wall at Bone Hill, this may be psychological), 7C would be my project grade (many have been abandoned), where I can usually make individual moves, but not string it together. I think I've only tried 2 or 3 8A's. Just to try. Biceps Power was the only one where I could immediately pull on and make the first 3(?) moves (the under cling traverse to the crack) and that gave me enough of a boost to keep at it.
Currently not helped by lack of opportunity to get outdoors and inability to love Dartmoor granite. Pining for Spanish Sandstone and sun kissed Lime. Also, despite being in Torquay for over a year, still to sample the delights of Anstey's.
-
there are many different styles of problem out there
Except dynos as they don't really count :)