UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: cha1n on January 02, 2014, 10:15:33 am
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Hey
I'll be in Catalonia for a month or so starting from mid-jan and I was wondering which crags are best for steep powerful climbing on big holds?
Siurana is being recommended for warmth but I think it'll be a bit crimpy for me at the moment as I have a minor pulley injury.
Steep and good holds are important but temps are too, nothing too cold for belaying! Thanks!
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Sector Bruixes at Terredets is pretty good for this. I doubt it'll be sun bathing temperatures but it gets plenty of sun. Its moderately overhanging, maybe 20 odd degrees (plus a small cave on the right hand end), and the rock is very skin/tendon friendly. Most routes are 7b+-8a+, if you onsight around that grade then there won't be enough for a month, though there are some upper 8's in the cave. Lower grade wise there's not much at that sector, a few low 7's, and maybe a couple 6's but I got the impression that they weren't very good. There are other sectors nearby, e.g. Sector Regina for more sport climbing but its North facing, and some multipitch sectors which I don't have any details on.
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Not been but this just popped up on Planet Mountain Abella de la Conca, a climbing paradise in Catalonia (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41481) (guessing the other ~50% that aren't steep walls & slabs might fit your requirements).
The Lleida guide is well worth getting (second edition published in November 2013).
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What grade?
Santa Linya and the steep stuff at Margalef would be my initial reactions. At Siurana there's some less boney stuff at L'olla (ya yos vale, la cara, migranya, pota).
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Montgrony? A mate was there in Dec and said it would be perfect Dec/Jan. Seems to be a good range of grades if your gf climbs in the 6s. Problem with places like Terradets (Bruixes anyway) and Santa Linya is there's nowt easy.
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Thanks for the replies.
I'm a terrible onsight climber (well on routes anyway) and don't really enjoy it so won't be doing any of that.
Grades around 8a for me, my gf will want 6's but we can drive to other crags for her, we don't have to climb on the same days.
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Montgrony? A mate was there in Dec and said it would be perfect Dec/Jan. Seems to be a good range of grades if your gf climbs in the 6s. Problem with places like Terradets (Bruixes anyway) and Santa Linya is there's nowt easy.
I thought the easier stuff at the higher crag was pretty damn terrible and I think Nat pretty much agreed. Sorry.
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I agree with Paul. Montgrony is not so great for 6s.
Alt Urgell perhaps? New guidebook. Plenty for you to go at in Oliana etc. I've heard that there are plenty of good 6s in the area