UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: StillTryingForTheTop on December 24, 2013, 09:25:19 am
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I am thinking of getting a set of sport quickdraws with my saved birthday and any Christmas money as my phantoms are a bit fiddly on sport routes.
I am currently looking at the DMM alpha sport, but am only swayed by the fact I like / trust the DMM brand, are there any better alternatives?
Secondly, I am thinking of buying 10, what lengths should I be getting?
Finally do any of the retailers have a history of doing good New Year sales?
Cheers
Gary
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Everyone will have their brand loyalties/personal preferences.
Friend bought some of the alphas specifically for sports holiday in November, they're nice, handle well, although the gate didn't work too well with a clipstick straight off (could be down to the wire 'catch' on the clip stick having been over used, bending it a bit a few weeks ago at LPT seemed to sort it).
Go for a selection of lengths as you don't know how well (in terms of a straight-line) routes will have been bolted and sometimes you'll want to use a long draw, sometimes short will be fine.
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I'd get mostly 20cm ish with a couple of 10cm. Dmms are nice, as are petzl spirits and the black diamond ones with green krabs
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Good point from slackline, wire krabs on top end do generally work easier with a stick
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Friend bought some of the alphas specifically for sports holiday in November, they're nice, handle well, although the gate didn't work too well with a clipstick straight off (could be down to the wire 'catch' on the clip stick having been over used, bending it a bit a few weeks ago at LPT seemed to sort it).
I really like using the alphas. The gates can be a bit springy when new for an old clipstick but it's a couple of seconds work with pliers to restore the catch on the clipstick to usefulness. The gates seem to relax as well after a while - mine now have no problems with even battered clipsticks (though I always carry a few wire-gates just in case). A friend has some of the new lightweight Petzl spirits and those are very nice too - not much in it so price would be my guide.
Lengthwise, I'd recommend a good mixture if possible but it's all a matter of personal taste. I'm a bit of a coward so tend to carry lots of 10cm quickdraws as I find them more reassuring (my rack is usually half 10cm, and a quarter each 15cm and 20cm). Less mentally frail people would probably carry far more longer quickdraws.
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Yeah, these were brand new draws with a used clip-stick. Bending the retaining clip on the clip stick sorted it out like you say.
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Thanks everyone,
With regards to the longer lengths, I know the advantage is less rope drag on wandering routes, but what is the disadvantage? Or I guess, what advantage are the shorter draws when sport climbing?
Hope everyone had a good Christmas.
Friend bought some of the alphas specifically for sports holiday in November, they're nice, handle well, although the gate didn't work too well with a clipstick straight off (could be down to the wire 'catch' on the clip stick having been over used, bending it a bit a few weeks ago at LPT seemed to sort it).
I really like using the alphas. The gates can be a bit springy when new for an old clipstick but it's a couple of seconds work with pliers to restore the catch on the clipstick to usefulness. The gates seem to relax as well after a while - mine now have no problems with even battered clipsticks (though I always carry a few wire-gates just in case). A friend has some of the new lightweight Petzl spirits and those are very nice too - not much in it so price would be my guide.
Lengthwise, I'd recommend a good mixture if possible but it's all a matter of personal taste. I'm a bit of a coward so tend to carry lots of 10cm quickdraws as I find them more reassuring (my rack is usually half 10cm, and a quarter each 15cm and 20cm). Less mentally frail people would probably carry far more longer quickdraws.
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You don't fall as far. :P
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lighter too.
I prefer them all slightly longer (18cm it is i think).
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:o
You don't fall as far. :P
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Kept it simple in the end, ordered 10 medium sized,
Cheers all