UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: slackline on December 09, 2013, 07:04:42 am
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Anyone know where this is...
Another one bites the dust! I just film Pete Whittaker make the first ascent of Headless Horseman Arête!!! Mega! (https://twitter.com/anditurner/status/409723297388331008)
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Yes, Roaches lower tier ... that is a biggie. Top-roped by Simon Nadin as far back as the 80s I think.
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Bit of info from the ever handy grit list: http://gritlist.wikifoundry.com/thread/2079957/The+headless+horseman+arete+-+Roaches (http://gritlist.wikifoundry.com/thread/2079957/The+headless+horseman+arete+-+Roaches)
There is about "in my opinion" from the ground to the top move the following grade(each move) = 6c, 6c, 6c, 7a, 7a/b ,6c, 7a, 6c(gear), 6b, 6b and 5 6a moves .
Sounds pretty tricky!
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Cheers Andy.
And well done Pete.
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There is about "in my opinion" from the ground to the top move the following grade(each move) = 6c, 6c, 6c, 7a, 7a/b ,6c, 7a, 6c(gear), 6b, 6b and 5 6a moves .
Sounds pretty tricky!
Pretty much sums it up! Definitely a thin route, desperate to get ticked and great to watch Pete squeak and blow his way up this yesterday!
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Was it recorded? Would live to see it. Great effort Pete.
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I guess as AndiT says he filmed it (see my earlier post) there is a high chance there will be a video posted somewhen.
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If I could access twitter from work that would indeed have been of some use. Thanks for the response anyway.
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If I could access twitter from work that would indeed have been of some use. Thanks for the response anyway.
You don't need to as I copied and pasted it into the forums here (although you weren't to know it was AndiT). Just scroll down :tease:
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A pic!
https://twitter.com/BuxtonStickman/status/409778110490357760
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(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/Ba_TBTjCMAASWpi.jpg)
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Amazing, can't wait to see the film.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1450853_10152715581894057_1638782852_n.jpg)
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I just cannot concieve of how scary it must be doing tenuous climbing in a situation like that. Is there any gear?
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Pete climbed on double ropes, he placed a couple of pieces of gear near the bottom of the climb and was able to place one piece of gear under the roof. You can't see his other rope in one of the photos.
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Amazing to see this done. Would love to know some more about it nows it has been climbed - had a reputation of being properly hard climbing in very dangerous positions, a real lgp.
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Historic shoes for historic ascents...
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Amazing, can't wait to see the film.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1450853_10152715581894057_1638782852_n.jpg)
you cant beat a late in the day autumnal grit shot when the rock turns pink...
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There was an epic sunset ablaze at the time of Pete's ascent.
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(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/Ba_TBTjCMAASWpi.jpg)
Are those Anasazi Whites? Shouldn't 5.10 sponsorees (is that a word?) be doing these historic ascents in the new Pinks?
This is a bit of a schoolboy question perhaps, but one I have myself whilst on dodgy smears (anything harder than 4b). How much will the lichen under Pete's right foot be effecting his friction?
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Amazing, can't wait to see the film.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1450853_10152715581894057_1638782852_n.jpg)
you cant beat a late in the day autumnal grit shot when the rock turns pink...
Looks quite hard but wonder what he could do if he lost a bit of weight
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Looks quite hard but wonder what he could do if he lost a bit of weight
It wasn't particularly warm on Sunday in the Peak with some quite cold winds adding to the chill.
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There was an epic sunset ablaze at the time of Pete's ascent.
And a streng staffordshire wind that stole the psyche of all save Pete
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Horseless Headman??
Great stuff. Lower Tier was gopping on Mon despite sun and breeze, good effort sneaking it in.
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That looks utterly terrifying, and from the description on gritlist, maybe the hardest of all the known LGPs on Peak Grit?
Amazing! Well done Pete, uber-waddage. :great:
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Harder than the lawrencefield wall or wizard ridge? Chinny.
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Gonna be all over the mags next month... Pics and vid on the press ;)
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http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/pete-whittaker-leads-headless-horseman-ar-te-history-in-the-making?current-channel=all-channels (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/pete-whittaker-leads-headless-horseman-ar-te-history-in-the-making?current-channel=all-channels)
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Sleepy Hollow - good name :great:
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Knees on an E10 - brilliant.
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Good name, good climb, great effort. Why no stars listed on the description in the video?