UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: slackline on December 09, 2013, 07:04:42 am

Title: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: slackline on December 09, 2013, 07:04:42 am
Anyone know where this is...

Another one bites the dust! I just film Pete Whittaker make the first ascent of Headless Horseman Arête!!! Mega! (https://twitter.com/anditurner/status/409723297388331008)
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: andy popp on December 09, 2013, 07:17:57 am
Yes, Roaches lower tier ... that is a biggie. Top-roped by Simon Nadin as far back as the 80s I think.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: remus on December 09, 2013, 08:23:05 am
Bit of info from the ever handy grit list: http://gritlist.wikifoundry.com/thread/2079957/The+headless+horseman+arete+-+Roaches (http://gritlist.wikifoundry.com/thread/2079957/The+headless+horseman+arete+-+Roaches)

Quote
There is about "in my opinion" from the ground to the top move the following grade(each move) = 6c, 6c, 6c, 7a, 7a/b ,6c, 7a, 6c(gear), 6b, 6b and 5 6a moves . 

Sounds pretty tricky!
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: slackline on December 09, 2013, 08:23:13 am
Cheers Andy.

And well done Pete.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: mini on December 09, 2013, 12:57:06 pm

Quote
There is about "in my opinion" from the ground to the top move the following grade(each move) = 6c, 6c, 6c, 7a, 7a/b ,6c, 7a, 6c(gear), 6b, 6b and 5 6a moves . 

Sounds pretty tricky!

Pretty much sums it up! Definitely a thin route, desperate to get ticked and great to watch Pete squeak and blow his way up this yesterday!
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: SA Chris on December 09, 2013, 01:37:33 pm
Was it recorded? Would live to see it. Great effort Pete.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: slackline on December 09, 2013, 01:40:17 pm
I guess as AndiT says he filmed it (see my earlier post) there is a high chance there will be a video posted somewhen.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: SA Chris on December 09, 2013, 01:58:51 pm
If I could access twitter from work that would indeed have been of some use. Thanks for the response anyway.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: slackline on December 09, 2013, 02:10:47 pm
If I could access twitter from work that would indeed have been of some use. Thanks for the response anyway.

You don't need to as I copied and pasted it into the forums here (although you weren't to know it was AndiT).   Just scroll down :tease:
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Eddies on December 09, 2013, 08:40:53 pm
A pic!
https://twitter.com/BuxtonStickman/status/409778110490357760
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: slackline on December 09, 2013, 09:21:21 pm
(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/Ba_TBTjCMAASWpi.jpg)
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 10, 2013, 12:24:34 pm
Amazing, can't wait to see the film.

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1450853_10152715581894057_1638782852_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: SA Chris on December 10, 2013, 01:04:56 pm
I just cannot concieve of how scary it must be doing tenuous climbing in a situation like that. Is there any gear?
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: pjkp on December 10, 2013, 01:26:18 pm
Pete climbed on double ropes, he placed a couple of pieces of gear near the bottom of the climb and was able to place one piece of gear under the roof. You can't see his other rope in one of the photos.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: IanP on December 10, 2013, 02:43:01 pm
Amazing to see this done.  Would love to know some more about it nows it has been climbed - had a reputation of being properly hard climbing in very dangerous positions, a real lgp. 
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: r-man on December 10, 2013, 03:55:41 pm
Historic shoes for historic ascents...
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: shurt on December 10, 2013, 04:16:28 pm
Amazing, can't wait to see the film.

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1450853_10152715581894057_1638782852_n.jpg)

you cant beat a late in the day autumnal grit shot when the rock turns pink...
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Eddies on December 10, 2013, 10:36:17 pm
There was an epic sunset ablaze at the time of Pete's ascent.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: psychomansam on December 10, 2013, 10:58:31 pm
(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/Ba_TBTjCMAASWpi.jpg)
Are those Anasazi Whites? Shouldn't 5.10 sponsorees (is that a word?) be doing these historic ascents in the new Pinks?

This is a bit of a schoolboy question perhaps, but one I have myself whilst on dodgy smears (anything harder than 4b). How much will the lichen under Pete's right foot be effecting his friction?
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Probes on December 11, 2013, 12:53:12 am
Amazing, can't wait to see the film.

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1450853_10152715581894057_1638782852_n.jpg)

you cant beat a late in the day autumnal grit shot when the rock turns pink...

Looks quite hard but wonder what he could do if he lost a bit of weight
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: slackline on December 11, 2013, 07:57:07 am
Looks quite hard but wonder what he could do if he lost a bit of weight

It wasn't particularly warm on Sunday in the Peak with some quite cold winds adding to the chill.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Eddies on December 11, 2013, 12:14:56 pm
There was an epic sunset ablaze at the time of Pete's ascent.

And a streng staffordshire wind that stole the psyche of all save Pete
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Fiend on December 12, 2013, 12:17:05 pm
Horseless Headman??

Great stuff. Lower Tier was gopping on Mon despite sun and breeze, good effort sneaking it in.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Rocksteady on December 13, 2013, 04:10:56 pm
That looks utterly terrifying, and from the description on gritlist, maybe the hardest of all the known LGPs on Peak Grit?

Amazing! Well done Pete, uber-waddage.  :great:
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: dave on December 13, 2013, 11:41:39 pm
Harder than the lawrencefield wall or wizard ridge? Chinny.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Eddies on December 14, 2013, 12:08:56 am
Gonna be all over the mags next month... Pics and vid on the press ;)
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: nai on December 17, 2013, 05:16:49 pm

http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/pete-whittaker-leads-headless-horseman-ar-te-history-in-the-making?current-channel=all-channels (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/pete-whittaker-leads-headless-horseman-ar-te-history-in-the-making?current-channel=all-channels)
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: IanP on December 17, 2013, 06:22:47 pm
Sleepy Hollow - good name  :great:
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: shurt on December 17, 2013, 08:12:15 pm
 Knees on an E10 - brilliant.
Title: Re: Pete Whittaker does Headless Horseman Arete
Post by: Fiend on December 17, 2013, 10:17:43 pm
Good name, good climb, great effort. Why no stars listed on the description in the video?
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal