UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: willackers on November 15, 2013, 10:46:12 pm
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Will's Dyno 8A - First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79523931)
Really pleased to get this done! Big dyno to the left of Superbloc.
:bounce:
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Easy or harder than Mr Tickle?
Nice one :icon_beerchug:
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Definitely harder. I thought 8A+ for sure, but then it felt better today, who knows? :shrug:
It's a bloody good dyno, regardless of the grade :)
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Will's Dyno 8A - First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79523931)
Really pleased to get this done! Big dyno to the left of Superbloc.
:bounce:
nice one Will, classic name
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Looks great. About time the peak had some proper hard dynos - seems like in the last year or two the 8's have started to get done.
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Proper topping out too!
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Saw chalk on this a while back and thought that's how you did the 7b (or whatever) thought it looked nails.... Good effort
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Nice one Will. Cam I assume from that video that the top hold is poor? Doesn't look like the distance was the problem.
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That looks superb. Well done Will!
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Nice one Will. Cam I assume from that video that the top hold is poor? Doesn't look like the distance was the problem.
The holds that you have to go for are pretty poor, and you can't see them from the starting position, the feet are quite poor as well. It is a massive distance as well, I'd like to see someone have a go who is under 6ft.
I personally think it's very hard, but we'll see if/when it gets repeated, you never know with FA's.
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Sounds like one for mark Katz :tease: nice one you lanky twat
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:clap2:
You might as well say 8a+, given that the next guide writer is going to look at your height, the fact you're good at dynos, that you reckon it's your hardest and then give it 8a+.
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Sounds a lot like Ru's logic for putting Pressure Drop in at 7c. Egg meet face.
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Sounds a lot like Ru's logic for putting Pressure Drop in at 7c. Egg meet face.
:lol:
I'll play it safe and leave it until it's been tried by a few other people ;)
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Looks like a lot of time, effort and fuel paid off. Nice one.
(Definitely not a video to show someone who asks 'what do you do for fun at the weekend?' :shrug:)
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Nice one Will, looks cracking.
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:clap2:
You might as well say 8a+, given that the next guide writer is going to look at your height, the fact you're good at dynos, that you reckon it's your hardest and then give it 8a+.
+1
also http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=96609 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=96609)
Which felt harder Will?
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Great stuff :2thumbsup:
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+1
also http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=96609 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=96609)
Which felt harder Will?
haha!, oh dear.
Catapult was all about getting the distance, as soon as I hit the hold I was in, the start holds were poor but the feet were massive.
I honestly think my dyno might be harder, but because it went quickly on my 3rd session I thought I better play it safe. It was nice and cool on Friday and I was getting loads more out of the starting holds than I had on previous sessions. It needs someone like Mason, Pasquill or Newman to have a bash, they might smash it in a few goes. I'm sure we'll find out soon enough.
But like I've already said, it's a bloody great problem, so who cares about the grade? :whistle:
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How does it compare to Delayed Devotion at Stanage?
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It needs someone like Mason, Pasquill or Newman
Looks like it's got Dave Gater written all over it! (not literally you understand)
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How does it compare to Delayed Devotion at Stanage?
Good call, I had forgotten about that!
I had a few goes on that shortly before it was done by Mike. I was getting my hand over the top, felt quite close, but I think you could hit the top of that time and time again before it stuck.
They're two totally different problems, I would have to go and finish DD off to have a valid opinion. Mike has briefly tried my dyno so maybe he would know.
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That looks sweeeeet, nice one Will :2thumbsup:
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Good stuff, certainly sounds like the real thing