UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Sasquatch on November 06, 2013, 04:32:32 pm
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So apparently I crimp very differently from everyone else I know. When I go into a closed crimp, I put the tip of my thumb just barely over my index finger and wrap the meaty side part of my thumb onto the crimp as well, and pull like mad with my thumb.
So my hand looks sort of like this, but even less of my thumb over the index finger, and my thumb is almost always engaging on something there:
(http://library.thinkquest.org/13779/media/images/general/full/andy%20using%20a%20crimp%20grip%201.JPG)
This seemed to be how most people closed crimp:
(http://s3.hubimg.com/u/4219538_f260.jpg)
I was much weaker when I tried to actually wrap the thumb over the top. I was amazed at how much I used my thumb to crimp. I've always felt I used my thumbs very well in general, but this seemed a bit different.... Even on small holds, I would rather let my pinky off and add the thumb as it was much stronger....
Anyone else do this? Pros/Cons?
I found it quite fascinating to start watching other people crimp last night at the gym and laugh at the difference. Everyone thought I was bonkers.
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I'm the same as you. Feels weird putting my thumb all the way over.. maybe I have a short thumb?
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It's down to anatomy I think. I crimp like you do, and there is no way for me to crimp as in the second picture as my thumb is too short and my fingers to wide. The thumb doesn't reach past half of the index finger for any realistic hold.
I've noticed before that most really strong crimpers I know have thin fingers and long thumbs.
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And another... Short thumbs I guess. Feels like my thumb presses straight down on the finger tip an do more secure
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So apparently Alaskans don't use their thumbs, but brits do.......
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As far as I've ever noticed a bit of thumb on the fingers is normal (first pic), but wrapping it fully over just looks fucking weird, I've never seen anyone do that.
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:agree:
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Three of the strongest people I know on crimps (in relation to their other hand positions) wrap their thumbs like in the second photo.
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I think the second photo is really extreme, but most people seem to wrap their thumb over their index finger. The second picture is also not quite what I meant but they were available to post.
I'm honestly starting to think I don't closed crimp at all. I think I 1/2 crimp with 4 fingers and wrap the meat of my thumb next to my fingers on the hold. I would say my thumb never really covers any of the nail when I "closed crimp".
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Is it safer or less so?
I generally just barely cover the thumb like in the first photo because the 2nd photo is a more severe crimp that looks like hell on the PIP joint/pullies.
I could be wrong though -- maybe the thumb adds support and strength, reducing the chance of injury?
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I'm the same.
If I put thumb completely over, it just feels like I'm going to break something in my finger... Alot of the time, I will stick my thumb on the hold next to my finger to give me 5 fingers on the hold.
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I think for me it depends on just how much I'm bearing down, on the size of the hold, body position and perhaps a few other things besides... Anywhere from the first to the second pic (though that does look pretty severe).
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anyone else see that thing The Brat used to do with his thumb?
it was jointed so that he used it like a fifth (strong) finger
I was never sure whether he just did this as a party trick or whether it actually helped
:off: sorry
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So apparently I crimp very differently from everyone else I know. When I go into a closed crimp, I put the tip of my thumb just barely over my index finger and wrap the meaty side part of my thumb onto the crimp as well, and pull like mad with my thumb.
(http://library.thinkquest.org/13779/media/images/general/full/andy%20using%20a%20crimp%20grip%201.JPG)
Even on small holds, I would rather let my pinky off and add the thumb as it was much stronger....
This is what I do and like you using the thumb gives me more pull than the pinky. I'm stronger open hand unless the thumb is on.
But going :off: again, do everyones fingers bend back (hyperflex?) on themselves like that at the first joint? Mine don't get beyond straight.
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anyone else see that thing The Brat used to do with his thumb?
it was jointed so that he used it like a fifth (strong) finger
Tyler does the same thing Lagers.
Chris Cubbit has banana shaped little fingers which he puts over his ring finger for some double crimp action. Redonkulousness.
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I almost always use my thumb as a fifth finger on holds and don't really bring it into contact with the index at all. I also have pretty disproportionately strong thumbs
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If I'm reading Lagers correctly, he's referring to pulling with the thumb as another finger, in the same direction, as opposed to resting the thumb sideways and pulling across and down. Which, of course, is a very important distinction to make, and will of course result in all of us amending our climbing in light of this. :)
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I almost always use my thumb as a fifth finger on holds and don't really bring it into contact with the index at all.
I can get mine to do that, but never actually do it in anger - prefer to wrap thump over index finger. Wonder if I should practice it?
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But going :off: again, do everyones fingers bend back (hyperflex?) on themselves like that at the first joint? Mine don't get beyond straight.
Mine too. Wont go beyond straight.
Mine won't go beyond about 120deg, 90 simply not possible let alone beyond that! On the plus it's another good excuse (added to a very long list) for failure on my part
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Thumb on side of index finger or on the hold definitely and none of that strange joint flexing thing either. Freaks.
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How does Gaskins crimp?
One for Shark to ask in the interview perchance???
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How does Gaskins crimp?
Like a legend?
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Check out CWP's thumb on crimping style!!
http://www.onsight.com.au/2014/01/chris-webb-parsons/ (http://www.onsight.com.au/2014/01/chris-webb-parsons/)
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Freaking weird....
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Check out CWP's thumb on crimping style!!
http://www.onsight.com.au/2014/01/chris-webb-parsons/ (http://www.onsight.com.au/2014/01/chris-webb-parsons/)
Interesting article. Thanks
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Picture one for me too.
I've even managed to tear my skin at the nail bed due to excessive crimp action with the thumb. :o
Don't think I can get my fingers into the position of pic two. Freak!
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My fingers don't extend like in either picture (looking like they are going to snap) very well, so I never crimp like that.
I tend to use my thumb as much as possible though, either on another part of the hold or turning the hold into a sort of pinch style affair.
In the past on some really gash holds (undercut sidepull of out of my boots), I have tried to throw my thumb well over my index and middle finger in a sort of bizarre claw shape. It doesn't really work as well as half crimping though.
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Different for different people with different abillities ... I think. How much can you flex each finger and other muscles in the hand, how are the muscles in your forearms recruited, ...
Rhetorical question IMHO. Will depend on your talents and weaknesses, and training. This is not yet a definite science?