UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Sasquatch on August 29, 2013, 10:39:29 pm
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So I've become less than enamored of our local wall for training and am looking for ideas creating a local board share.
If you could have anything, what would be requisite for training apparatus?
Off the top of my head, I am thinking about:
Stacked BM,
Campus Board,
System wall,
Moon Board,
Treadwall
12 x 12 Variable angle (20-60 degree overhang) board
Rings
Free Weights set
Dumbbell set
What else would you want? I'm looking for the ultimate training dungeon ideas. I won't be able to do them all, but I at least want to see what we can do.......
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a rack? (for the shorties ;) )
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Hottub
Sauna,
Swedish Masseuse...
;D
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your still gonna need a bunch of screaming teens to make your really send so you can GTF home for dinner tho, school trip best/worst training aid your local wall has to offer...
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Pareti Sport Center - Training Zone on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58841105)
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Dolly's shed...
tunes
a little cupboard with bottles of beer in
glitterball
plenty of slopers
well named holds
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Magazine clippings of old school wads cranking/gurning like hell - stuck on the board inbetween holds for inspiration.
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A 'cragx' board.
Does anywhere in the UK have a campus board with blob/pinches on it? That looks brilliant fun. Noticed similar in the Jan Hojer vid. Where are all our systems boards too? I guess walls just can't justify the space when we're all such a load of punters? Seems odd given the enthusiasm for 'proper' training nowadays.
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30 degree circuit board
dip bars
peg board
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Tom Depot Notts and the Castle have got the blobs out of the Hoger Vid, the Biscuit Factory has got symmetrical Core slopey pinches. I guess you could do system like training on the Beastmaker board, but probably only on edges? I think it's a space thing as you say.
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Air Conditioning
Free (good) coffee
Yoga mats? ;) (if its in London)
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Tom Depot Notts and the Castle have got the blobs out of the Hoger Vid, the Biscuit Factory has got symmetrical Core slopey pinches. I guess you could do system like training on the Beastmaker board, but probably only on edges? I think it's a space thing as you say.
IIRC Mile End had/has a systems board, been a long while since I was there though!
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Get an ego-crushing Beastmaker systems board (a la The Climbing Hangar, Liverpool setup). I can't rate this board highly enough.
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If you could have anything, what would be requisite for training apparatus?
Off the top of my head, I am thinking about:
Stacked BM,
Campus Board,
System wall,
Moon Board,
Treadwall
12 x 12 Variable angle (20-60 degree overhang) board
Rings
Free Weights set
Dumbbell set
What else would you want? I'm looking for the ultimate training dungeon ideas. I won't be able to do them all, but I at least want to see what we can do.......
Beastmaker, campus board, the Wave, and some really offensive hiphop. That is all.
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I guess walls just can't justify the space when we're all such a load of punters? Seems odd given the enthusiasm for 'proper' training nowadays.
I think they just don't make much money off non-punters. Attempting to convince places to spend money on training facilities aint easy.
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Though some folk who are on the boards/training etc.. are ALWAYS on them - type of thing your 3 times a week trainer might use rather than once a week punter... I dunno though - just guessing.
Does Stallioni have any views from his console at the Depot? (or is he too busy selecting bad music and surfing for.....)
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Though some folk who are on the boards/training etc.. are ALWAYS on them - type of thing your 3 times a week trainer might use rather than once a week punter...
Yeah but they're the ones with memberships usually. There are rumours of reshuffles at the foundry which would allow more bouldering space. I suggested a motherboard style board for bouldering on, I'll be shocked (and very happy) if we get anything other than jugs for punters/kids.
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John Gaskins posters
Small crimps
Job done.
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Dolly's shed...
tunes
a little cupboard with bottles of beer in
glitterball
plenty of slopers
well named holds
Seriously, we have all of that in our training room, except the beer!
Yes, we have a glitter ball and it works! (Used to be a dance school).
We don't have stacked BMs we have off set stack to a TCA board, or direct to slopers/ campus rungs.
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It would be good to have suspension training system a la TRX or Jungle sports.
Also, a gravity training machine, but they are pretty expensive.
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All that sounds good but I'd prioritise a decent size 30* board and one huge (as high/wide as you have space) 45* board over everything else.
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the school room. Pretty much had it all really.
Maybe add a systems board and beastmaker.
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Variable angle lockoff / finger board and "Davey Jones lockoff " block as installed in Eden Rock training room.
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All that sounds good but I'd prioritise a decent size 30* board and one huge (as high/wide as you have space) 45* board over everything else.
:agree:
Its easy to get carried away planning your training wall / woodie, leading to too much kit to train on!
My advise it to Keep it simple...
A board to warm up on. 10-30 degs
A steep board to bear down on. 30-45 degs
A few Free Weights inc Bench press and pull up bar
A Big Fan, a Clock, a Timer and a Stereo.
Id leave the fingerboard and yoga mat at home, do core and f-boarding sessions between wall days.
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You want a bench press but not a fingerboard or campus board? :-\
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A very good and experienced trainer.
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Dai Koyamada's wall
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A very good and experienced trainer.
:bounce: You offering to move to alaska?
Seriously though. I'm looking into creating a board share/Co-op/personal training location. Not at home though. Too easy for the missus to distract/interfere with serious work :)
There are a handful of 600-800 sqft garage spaces that I can rent out with 12-20 foot ceilings for quite cheap, $400-500/month (they're designed for people to store big motorhomes in during the winter). So If I can come up with a good concept, and get about 10-15 friends and likewise motivated guys to get in on it, it ends up being cheaper than the local wall, and it'd be WAYYYYY better for training. Our current setup is the classic punter's wall.
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A very good and experienced trainer.
:bounce: You offering to move to Alaska? Our current setup is the classic punter's wall.
I said a GOOD and experienced trainer.
And yes, the classic punters' wall that casually made you boulder 8a+!!!
:2thumbsup:
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Don't know about casually..... But either way it wasn't the punter's wall that got me there. It was FB'ing and 15 years of bouldering outside.
Now I'm ready to train like a madman and casually climb 8B or 8C...... ;D
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My ideal set up would be:
10-20 degree wall for warm ups
35-45 degree big board for crushing
A system board
A board set for circuits so people don't get in the way doing circuits for 20min when you're working your project
A really fingery traverse wall (if there's space)
Pull up bar
Stacked Beastmakers with pulley system and free weights
Campus wall with big and little rungs
Weights vests
Warm up area - swiss ball, foam rollers, therabands
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The Tecknoe board! Sessions come with evil techno, deep house and docepulgadas radio show loud enough to make the walls shake. Get strong or go home (injured).
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Also about 200kg of plates (for deadlifting).
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I'm assuming that you've got a big mirror on your list :lol:
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One 56' board
One 28' board
One 18' CragX board
A book of problems that you'll never manage to tick.
Campus boards.
Fingerboards.
A nice beefy pull up bar with one armer set-up.
Shaky bench press with no bar-ends and plates that don't match and/are in different units.
A lot of dust and a hole kicked in the wall to house a clock. A fading picture of Wolverine.
Open 24 hours. What else could you want?
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One 56' board
One 28' board
One 18' CragX board
A book of problems that you'll never manage to tick.
Campus boards.
Fingerboards.
A nice beefy pull up bar with one armer set-up.
Shaky bench press with no bar-ends and plates that don't match and/are in different units.
A lot of dust and a hole kicked in the wall to house a clock. A fading picture of Wolverine.
Open 24 hours. What else could you want?
It not to be demolished?
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I'm looking into creating a board share/Co-op/personal training location. Not at home though. Too easy for the missus to distract/interfere with serious work :)
There are a handful of 600-800 sqft garage spaces that I can rent out with 12-20 foot ceilings for quite cheap, $400-500/month (they're designed for people to store big motorhomes in during the winter). So If I can come up with a good concept, and get about 10-15 friends and likewise motivated guys to get in on it, it ends up being cheaper than the local wall, and it'd be WAYYYYY better for training.
Do this! This is similar to where I and EddieS train, and it's dirt cheap once you've stumped up some capital to get going. Cannot recommend it enough, especially since you can build what you want. And with your own club, you have the key and it's open 24 hrs ;D ;D
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You want a bench press but not a fingerboard or campus board? :-\
You cant perform well on campus board or f-board after a few hrs on a steep bouldering wall, but you can bench press. Thats what i was getting at
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I probably would like to have two separate boards, one just for slopers and one for crimpers. For good training, not for having fun climbing.
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hope this isnt too off topic but for slopers do you guys prefer the flat 45 beastmaker style, the round lapis ball style, or the rounded edge metolius simulator style?
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:shrug:
Sorry.
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I've never seen a better set up than Dan Varian's training room at Eden Rock, Carlisle.
From what I remember:
- 45 deg system board - all wood.
- 55 deg board - all wood.
- About a million finger boards.
- Pull ups set up.
- Interval timers a plenty.
- Really well ventilated.
Wish it was in my spare room, or preferably that the missus would move out and I could have it in the living room.
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Thansk for all the ideas. Definitely been working at figuring this out. Hopefully I can get a place in November and have it built out by January. The next wave of crushers will be from the land of eternal darkness..... :punk:
and midnight sun :)
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Thansk for all the ideas. Definitely been working at figuring this out. Hopefully I can get a place in November and have it built out by January. The next wave of crushers will be from the land of eternal darkness..... :punk:
and midnight sun :)
Will you promise photo's and a place on the board share directory?? :-)
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If it happens, I'll post pics and details :)
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One 56' board
One 28' board
One 18' CragX board
A book of problems that you'll never manage to tick.
Campus boards.
Fingerboards.
A nice beefy pull up bar with one armer set-up.
Shaky bench press with no bar-ends and plates that don't match and/are in different units.
A lot of dust and a hole kicked in the wall to house a clock. A fading picture of Wolverine.
Open 24 hours. What else could you want
Shakey bench press was great, especially with 120kg and Quent screaming at you to get that last rep.The hole in the wall was the result off swinging off the crux move on my problem "Mr Blobby the swing man" 7c....... and sticking their foot through the plasterboard....
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and picture of Natalie Imbruglia
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Include a John Dunne shrine and make sure every hold name is libellous.
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Never been a fan of Dunne..... Not sure why. Always liked Dawes though.
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When I was first starting out and about 16, I'd just seconded S crack at ilkley and was thinking look at me that stands for very severe! When Dunne turned up and show boated up Wellington crack with his trainers on.
I've liked him ever since!
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It included the photo of him stood under the Burbage prow with the rope hanging down it. As proof.
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and picture of Natalie Imbruglia
And a big sign saying "NO TOE HOOKING".
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or kneebarring :)
Actually maybe I'll make a "kneebarring only" bit, sort of like the wideboys crack trainer, only meant for kneebars.....
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and picture of Natalie Imbruglia
And a big sign saying "NO TOE HOOKING".
I'd add "NO HEEL HOOKING EITHER" to that sign. And maybe "WHAT WOULD MALC DO?".
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And over the fingerboard "STEVIE HASTON WAS HERE"..
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And over the fingerboard "STEVIE HASTON WAS HERE DOING PULLUPS"..
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No heelhooks on my board.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7380/9736872464_4d94e7a60b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9736872464/)
image (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9736872464/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
And...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7339/9736872326_6849f8265d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9736872326/)
image (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/9736872326/#) by Nibile (http://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
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Think I've just broken the record for the most missed (admittedly crap) gags on one thread. I'd post the tumbleweed but I'm on tapatalk.
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I use the phrase 'Malcolm Style' all the time.
Its from the pro tips video; staying open, face on, no rolling or twisting and certainly no advanced frottage.
Always worth a re-up
Pro Tips 2 Malcolm Smith (Climb X Media) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngQbNJeCVls#)
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It's a generation thing jasper and maybe tied to about 20 people who climbed in your celler.
I can still see many of the hold names in my head.
" Mank wank skank bank" rings a bell as one of the few non libellous ones
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Ha ha! "Hank Wank Mank Bank" if I remember correctly but had to dredge that from the depths. Genius.
You're correct, but I did think people would get that the Dunne shrine was ironic.....
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Warning! Thread hijack!
What's the general opinion of the UKB massive of the Cafe Kraft "peg" training board (as featured here Schweiß ist Schwäche die den Körper verläßt on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/24776832) )?
And....
Crack training, any preferred widths?
I'm thinking of two, 2~3cm and 10~12 cm, sound right?
Worth putting in a bigger one?
Would you use artificial cracks, if they were there?
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What's the general opinion of the UKB massive of the Cafe Kraft "peg" training board
I want one I want one I want one...
not sure how much use it really is for climbing but for general upper body...
In case I didn't make my point
I want one I want one I want one...
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Not just Cafe Kraft, they're pretty standard at German walls.
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That facility generally looks amazing.
Nice and light.
Or is that something to do with the fact that I have to work and only train after 8pm.