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the shizzle => sponsors => Topic started by: Dave D on July 15, 2013, 09:21:00 pm

Title: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Dave D on July 15, 2013, 09:21:00 pm
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/999043_500432980028559_1667001420_n.jpg)

The name speaks for itself! (as for the pose...)
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: dave on July 15, 2013, 09:29:50 pm
Surely if you screw it to some of that metalwork you won't need to hold it up.
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 15, 2013, 09:32:25 pm
Is the name something to do with Jerry?
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Paul B on July 16, 2013, 12:45:23 am
You did read the "Climbing for the Olympics" thread where pretty much everybody agreed that speed climbing is a steaming pile of  :shit: ?
Title: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: tomtom on July 16, 2013, 08:01:01 am
Amphetamine Arete?
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Dave D on July 16, 2013, 08:29:09 am
You did read the "Climbing for the Olympics" thread where pretty much everybody agreed that speed climbing is a steaming pile of  :shit: ?

No.

Apart from Ratho and the Beacon there's no speed wall in the UK to host speed competitions on. One line out of 104 with one speed route on it now and again won't be missed.

Dave D.
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Paul B on July 16, 2013, 06:22:36 pm
Another idea: Maybe if you fit an autobelay for the speed wall Barrows can aerocap on it and it'll get him out of the way of everyone else?
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Tommy on July 16, 2013, 07:12:57 pm
I think it's a great idea to have a speed wall. If I owned a wall in Sheffield I'd have one.
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: GraemeA on July 16, 2013, 08:28:18 pm
I think it's a great idea to have a speed wall. If I owned a wall in Sheffield I'd have one.

It would look bloody stupid in the Works
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Percy B on July 16, 2013, 08:30:49 pm
I think its great that there's a speed wall - about time that there was a proper one in Sheffield, although having one line dedicated to speed surely defeats the point. I reckon that 2 adjacent lines so that people can race each other (like in speed climbing competitions) would be a much better plan, otherwise folks are only ever going to be racing on their own against the clock which can be a little un-motivating. Or is the wall big enough for a pair of speed routes on it? And is it going to have some of the proper timing clocks on it?

Many people people on this forum might well think that speed climbing is shite, but my advice would be to have a go with your mates on a proper speed climbing wall and see how quickly you are trying to rip the holds off the wall in an attempt to beat your opponent.....its actually a good laugh, and probably quite good for your climbing/general fitness too. Not that climbers are in any way competitive, or anything... :???:

Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: GraemeA on July 16, 2013, 09:08:17 pm
So speaketh the 1st ever holder of the 15m speed world record. Although of course the record was never validated as he wasn't drug tested  ;)

His record lasted approximately 5 minutes, until the 1st competitor climber and virtually halved Percy's record  ;D
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Tommy on July 16, 2013, 09:17:36 pm
It's true, it's forking good fun. Don't knock it til you tried it UKB'ers.

Anyway... Graeme, don't you own some subsidiary company that's to do with speed climbing?! Or is that another brilliant Sheffield rumour? Start in the canal next to the Mini Works and strap it to the side of the building  :)
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: dave on July 16, 2013, 09:22:09 pm
see how quickly you are trying to rip the holds off the wall in an attempt to beat your opponent

Can't wait to see that transferred to the crags.
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: GraemeA on July 16, 2013, 09:31:01 pm
Anyway... Graeme, don't you own some subsidiary company that's to do with speed climbing?! Or is that another brilliant Sheffield rumour? Start in the canal next to the Mini Works and strap it to the side of the building  :)

The Speed Works Ltd no longer exists

Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Paul B on July 16, 2013, 09:33:49 pm
I think its great that there's a speed wall - about time that there was a proper one in Sheffield, although having one line dedicated to speed surely defeats the point. I reckon that 2 adjacent lines so that people can race each other (like in speed climbing competitions) would be a much better plan, otherwise folks are only ever going to be racing on their own against the clock which can be a little un-motivating. Or is the wall big enough for a pair of speed routes on it? And is it going to have some of the proper timing clocks on it?

Swinging balls etc. ? I'll politely say I disagree. It may be good fun but ultimately it's fairly irrelevant for anything other than competitions (I'm not saying it isn't a shrewd business move with regard to this, far from it, and given you run a darn successful bouldering wall your business head is screwed on a lot better than mine ever will be), unless of course it'll have sub-discipline of short-fixing.
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 16, 2013, 10:19:43 pm
Didn't you get benighted last month?
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Paul B on July 16, 2013, 10:26:09 pm
Didn't you get benighted last month?

No, 3 months ago we were rescued, you know this.
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 16, 2013, 10:51:34 pm
 At night though? ;)  ;D
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Paul B on July 17, 2013, 02:07:05 am
At night though? ;)  ;D

 :fishing: 90/180...
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: clm on July 17, 2013, 07:03:51 am
Sir paul b?
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Dave D on July 17, 2013, 10:51:30 am
It's fair to say that I have no experience of operating a 'Speed Wall' at a climbing centre!

The idea behind it was that if we're building a climbing centre that is going to be put forward for the BMC 'National Performance Centre' status we need one to fulfil the criteria. Regardless of the criteria I thought it would be great to have one anyway.

If the wall is used for speed climbing then two gallows are added at 10m and two identical climbs are set following the current IFSC route course. If the wall is not used for speed climbing then no gallows are added and the wall is wide enough to have five climbing lines at a lovely angle.

I've request local professional advice (GraemeA professional?) on the set up so we'll be heading in the right direction when we open.

Either way it's a cracking piece of wall to climb on!

Thanks for the interest and input,

Dave D
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: imcristian10 on July 17, 2013, 07:21:24 pm
thank you
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: GraemeA on July 17, 2013, 10:04:18 pm
Is that a 10m Speed Wall Dave?
Title: Re: The Sheffield Speed Wall
Post by: Dave D on July 17, 2013, 10:36:13 pm
Is that a 10m Speed Wall Dave?

Yes, 10m speed wall. The gallows may be set higher than that.

Dave
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