UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Greg C on January 06, 2003, 04:48:33 pm

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: Greg C on January 06, 2003, 04:48:33 pm

I have just been on 8a.nu and a few UK boulderers have ticked the onsight boxes on their score cards, yet written the likes of "did second try" in the comments box. Now I know there is alot of confussion over what the difference between flashing and onsighting, but in anyones book onsight means first try surley? :roll:

Greg

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: Nigel on January 06, 2003, 06:37:28 pm

The only one I saw was Justin Critchlow, who in true popstars fashion goes straight in at UK no.1. (no.15 in the world) A bit cheeky, as is overgrading most of the problems, albeit by just one grade in most cases (except Shit - 7c+! 7b+ tops if not 7b, and Brad's Arete at 7b; 7a is a soft touch for this!). I'm not saying your crap Justin, I've seen Readybrek and it looks nails, so well done.

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: Bubba on January 06, 2003, 07:24:17 pm

You bad lad Justfunk  :wink:

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: dave on January 07, 2003, 09:07:29 am

I belive for the purposes of 8a.nu, the hierachy of ascent style goes something like this:

• onsight = first go, with no prior knowledge, beta etc.
  
• flash = first go, with beta
  
• redpoint = any subesquent attempt
  
• freepoint? = some clean toproped ascent(?)
  

The higher up the list your ascent is, the more extra points you get. For example, getting a 7b onsight scores you the same points as redpointing a 7c (or something like that), so yes, claiming onsight then saying 2nd go is clearly cheating - but most likely they haven't read/understood the rules properly.

Also some problems appear to have big grades cos you are supposed to enter the guidebook grade, which means you get a lot of people putting things like Early Doors in at 7b+ and stuff like that.

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: Bubba on January 07, 2003, 09:15:19 am

I must say I'm not too keen on the idea of scorecards in the first place as it tends to all be a bit number-centric and competitive...but I'm sure I'd probably think differently if I could climb half well!

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: Nigel on January 07, 2003, 09:26:25 am

Or Green Traverse as 7b+!

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: Greg C on January 07, 2003, 12:46:41 pm

I am sure there is another person putting onsights in and claiming to have ascended a problem or three in more than one go but I can`t finf them now, Oh well!

Greg

Title: I thought onsight mean`t 1st go?
Post by: Bubba on January 10, 2003, 09:44:12 am

Nice pic of Justfunk on the quite tricky Against the Grain:

(http://www.8a.nu/eng/pics/justin.jpg)