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places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: crimp on June 12, 2013, 08:22:30 pm

Title: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: crimp on June 12, 2013, 08:22:30 pm
https://thebmc.co.uk/british-bouldering-championships-2013-entry-open

Anyone having a punt?
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: namnok on June 12, 2013, 09:21:01 pm
Very tempted by the new format, but i have to lose a large amount of podge and train non stop till the last minute to get match and grade fit.

Only 60 places too so that really put me off
Title: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: tomtom on June 12, 2013, 10:36:06 pm
I will apply and then gracefully pull out at the last minute to retain some dignity ;)
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: J_duds on June 14, 2013, 09:54:06 pm
The price seems high, have they always been £30?

Entry fee
•Senior competitors: £30.00 + £3.75 (half price entry to Cliffhanger) = £33.75
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: rodma on June 14, 2013, 11:21:21 pm
Not exactly expensive. Potentially a two day event. They build the wall for the comp etc etc etc

I'm Having a punt, cos i don't know when to give up. Any others on here? Willackers?
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: crimp on July 02, 2013, 10:33:56 am
Not exactly expensive. Potentially a two day event. They build the wall for the comp etc etc etc

I'm Having a punt, cos i don't know when to give up. Any others on here? Willackers?

did you get your entry in?

Any other UKBers signed up?

Will it be streamed on youtube?
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: stvey1987 on July 02, 2013, 11:03:56 am
Does anyone know how many of our strong women are going to be there ? Last I saw Shauna was in America along with Puccio and I remember hearing something about Mina going on a trip to rocklands all summer... just wondering if they are going to be competing or not??
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: willackers on July 02, 2013, 12:13:33 pm
I've entered, I think the world cup format is much better. My preperation has been spending the last 5 days at Glastonbury Festival  :pissed: I'm going to be on top form  :slap:
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: rodma on July 02, 2013, 12:57:24 pm
Not exactly expensive. Potentially a two day event. They build the wall for the comp etc etc etc

I'm Having a punt, cos i don't know when to give up. Any others on here? Willackers?

did you get your entry in?

Any other UKBers signed up?

Will it be streamed on youtube?

entry in

see you there monsieur chatouiller 

don't know
Title: Re: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 02, 2013, 08:18:55 pm
I've entered, I think the world cup format is much better. My preperation has been spending the last 5 days at Glastonbury Festival  :pissed: I'm going to be on top form  :slap:

Good lad. I'll be supporting you for using the classic Sharpe pre competition training plan.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: GraemeA on July 03, 2013, 05:39:02 pm
Not exactly expensive. Potentially a two day event. They build the wall for the comp etc etc etc

I'm Having a punt, cos i don't know when to give up. Any others on here? Willackers?

did you get your entry in?

Any other UKBers signed up?

Will it be streamed on youtube?

It is getting streamed but I am not sure where
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: crimp on July 03, 2013, 05:42:51 pm
Not exactly expensive. Potentially a two day event. They build the wall for the comp etc etc etc

I'm Having a punt, cos i don't know when to give up. Any others on here? Willackers?

did you get your entry in?

Any other UKBers signed up?

Will it be streamed on youtube?

It is getting streamed but I am not sure where

I've asked BMC twice. They've not bothered answering.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: GraemeA on July 03, 2013, 07:11:23 pm
Not exactly expensive. Potentially a two day event. They build the wall for the comp etc etc etc

I'm Having a punt, cos i don't know when to give up. Any others on here? Willackers?

did you get your entry in?

Any other UKBers signed up?

Will it be streamed on youtube?

It is getting streamed but I am not sure where

I've asked BMC twice. They've not bothered answering.

The BMC (ie Rob Adie) was dropping stuff off at the park today and he said it was being webcast. But it isn't exactly being very well publicised - I have asked for the link so we can publicise it via The Works
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 03, 2013, 10:54:54 pm
I thought about entering, but on the BMC site it said "Approximate grades of problems: Senior male V4-V9/V7-V10"

I can only do Font grades
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 03, 2013, 11:17:02 pm
Whereas I can only do VS.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: Grubes on July 04, 2013, 12:00:23 am
I saw a tweet from 24\7 TV earlier saying they were streaming it
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: crimp on July 04, 2013, 07:11:13 am
I saw a tweet from 24\7 TV earlier saying they were streaming it

checked their website. They are. But they're a pay per view effort.

Ho hum.

Good luck Rodma & Willackers.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: namnok on July 04, 2013, 07:55:27 am
you can easily come over to cliffhanger and join us under the tent and watch/support this great sporting event.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: lagerstarfish on July 04, 2013, 09:15:32 am
Whereas I can only do VS.

just googled that and found that it stands for VERY severe!

sounds very difficult, but apparantly very difficult is not even as hard as VS!  you must be one of those people who do stuff that only 1% of climbers can do

 :strongbench:
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: r-man on July 04, 2013, 11:30:49 am
Quote from: http://www.247.tv/component/event/cliffhanger-ifsc-bouldering-world-cup-sheffield/
Costs
Replay from £1.00
Download from £1.50
Live from £9,999.99

 :???:
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: andy_e on July 04, 2013, 11:32:46 am
That's a bit steep!
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2013, 11:51:57 am
Whilst it sounds like a funtime day out for all, given the forecast I shall be out climbing in the great outdoors... :) *

*do I sound like a grumpy old bastard above?
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: r-man on July 04, 2013, 11:54:44 am
Hang on, looks like that's the 2010 page. So that's actually quite a good price for time travel.

Can't find anything about the 2013 event.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: r-man on July 04, 2013, 04:21:35 pm
Looks like it will be streamed here.

https://www.youtube.com/user/247dottv (https://www.youtube.com/user/247dottv)
Title: Re: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: Jaspersharpe on July 04, 2013, 04:45:28 pm
I thought about entering, but on the BMC site it said "Approximate grades of problems: Senior male V4-V9/V7-V10"

I can only do Font grades

The good old BMC, stubbornly persevering with their V grades despite the fact that only people who live in London and Fiend now use them.
Title: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2013, 04:48:19 pm
In London I heard that Yoga was so popular nowadays at climbing walls, they are starting to use Y grades... Campusing 1-5-9 straight into a 'Mantis eating donut' position gets Y13..
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: psychomansam on July 04, 2013, 07:56:17 pm
Does anyone know how many of our strong women are going to be there ? Last I saw Shauna was in America along with Puccio and I remember hearing something about Mina going on a trip to rocklands all summer... just wondering if they are going to be competing or not??

Well dunno bout the rest but Shauna's blog starts with 'home sweet home', so I doubt that's a coincidence  :)
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: psychomansam on July 07, 2013, 07:27:33 pm
Anyone watching Wimbledon was watching the wrong final.

The tent was the place to be - scorching out in the sun today. I feel sorry for the inevitable visiting climbers, greasing off grit slopers.

The men made a decent show of it, though I think it's telling that it was nearly won by a 16 year old (Burns). Close call and everything came down to the last problem. Barrans took it, but only just - the top 5 each climbed 2, but he had the least tries.

The women - something else. Close competition for 2nd place. It all came down to the last problem. With everyone failing, the results stayed as they were and Mina was rewarded for her balance and precision on the first problem, gaining silver. She'd been one of two to top the first problem - the other was Shauna, looking fluid, relaxed and comfortable as she gained the flash. Which she also did on the 2nd and the 3rd problems, guaranteeing her win. She never seemed to have a chance at flashing the fourth problem - Puccio was relegated to 3rd after even she couldn't top it. But a couple of minutes later, Shauna was topping out - 4 problems in 4 attempts. World class.

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: 205Chris on July 07, 2013, 07:37:08 pm
No Ned this year?
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: psychomansam on July 07, 2013, 07:40:35 pm
He didn't make the final.

Link for the final:

Finals - British Bouldering Championships 2013 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbQ4LuCzENc#ws)
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: abarro81 on July 07, 2013, 08:05:36 pm
Word on the street is that he didn't go and has quit comps... but this is 3rd hand knowledge
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: Danny on July 07, 2013, 08:58:58 pm
Amazing effort from Dom - good to see an Irish climber in the mix!
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: GraemeA on July 07, 2013, 10:32:49 pm
Amazing effort from Dom - good to see an Irish climber in the mix!

You mean a Brit with an Irish passport  ;)
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: r-man on July 07, 2013, 11:25:54 pm
Just watched the replay - super impressive climbing from Shauna! Shame the live feed wasn't following her on the crux of final problem, would have been interesting to see how she did it.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: Danny on July 08, 2013, 12:05:19 am
Amazing effort from Dom - good to see an Irish climber in the mix!

You mean a Brit with an Irish passport  ;)

I really mean a climber from Belfast.

What I should have said was:

Good to see a climber from a city with terrible, terrible climbing facilities make it so far.
 
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: psychomansam on July 08, 2013, 07:19:56 am
Just watched the replay - super impressive climbing from Shauna! Shame the live feed wasn't following her on the crux of final problem, would have been interesting to see how she did it.

The live feed also missed the 2nd best bit of action which was womens problem three, when Leah broke through it - failing with a nasty fall off the top hold before flying up it second go and holding a big swing on the finish. (Puccio, after struggling at the start, then did the same, but with her power made the final throw look much easier. Shauna then flashed it and basically did the finish static, crossed-arms sideways-campus style  :ohmy:

Question by the way - what's the deal with Puccio? I take it she's dating someone over here - does she have a passport? Is she getting one?  :shrug:
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: GraemeA on July 08, 2013, 08:51:46 am

Good to see a climber from a city with terrible, terrible climbing facilities make it so far.
 

But he does have an Eddie to help him  ;)
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: GraemeA on July 08, 2013, 08:53:29 am
Question by the way - what's the deal with Puccio? I take it she's dating someone over here - does she have a passport? Is she getting one?  :shrug:

Nope to the UK passport, Alex and her bloke (Nicholas Parsons, a Pikey Convict) are moving to Boulder as soon as Chris gets his visa issued.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: galpinos on July 08, 2013, 10:31:14 am
Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: Doylo on July 08, 2013, 10:35:17 am
Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....

i think he would have been pelted with rotten eggs
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: willackers on July 08, 2013, 10:48:59 am
Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....

i think he would have been pelted with pints of warm piss
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: mr__j5 on July 08, 2013, 10:58:10 am
Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....

He would have loved the knee bar - no hands rest on problem 3 though.
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: abarro81 on July 08, 2013, 02:32:08 pm
I was wondering whilst watching the end of the finals actually - are there rules on use of kneepads in comps? Graham - any clue?
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: GraemeA on July 08, 2013, 03:06:24 pm
No there aren't any rules that mention knee pads. It could be argued that they are aid so would be banned. But then again it could be argued that they are merely knee supports (like Nicholas Parsons was wearing in the semis) and therefore would be allowed.

Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: tomtom on July 08, 2013, 03:42:52 pm
Nice pic from RobL (via facebork)

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002700_10152966394150461_1166284252_n.jpg)
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: psychomansam on July 08, 2013, 06:03:46 pm
Question by the way - what's the deal with Puccio? I take it she's dating someone over here - does she have a passport? Is she getting one?  :shrug:

Nope to the UK passport, Alex and her bloke (Nicholas Parsons, a Pikey Convict) are moving to Boulder as soon as Chris gets his visa issued.

Pity!
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: Zods Beard on July 08, 2013, 06:50:45 pm
I heard a rumour someone called Dave won it...
Title: Re: British Bouldering Championships 2013
Post by: tommytwotone on July 09, 2013, 12:45:19 pm
...like Nicholas Parsons was wearing in the semis...

I take it he climbed without repetition, hesitation or deviation and took around about 60 seconds for each problem?

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