UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Peanuts on May 31, 2013, 01:32:58 pm
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Hi Folks,
With news 'seeping' out that the Chee Dale cornice is back in play (the last two days rain may have reversed this position) I am in the annual position of finding a 'project' and the options pretty thin for us stamina plodders. Four Door has always intrigued me as it 'looks' really good, but crag comments usually revolve around 'no holds', impossible clips, skin shredding etc etc etc. Does anyone have anything good to say about this route? more importantly does anyone have any 'magic' beta that knocks three grades off ....
I'm probably going to get a good kicking on this route but it still 'looks' really good :-\
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Four Door has always intrigued me as it 'looks' really good, but crag comments usually revolve around 'no holds', impossible clips, skin shredding etc etc etc.
That just about sums it up.
It is a really strange route that is so unlike anything else on the crag. It's more like a horrible (IMO) grit grove that has gate crashed the party. It is one of those routes that can feel like the living end on first acquaintances but soon gives way with learned faggotry. Not really stamina and still quite powerful, certainly near the top!
I hope I sold it to you then?
It does however stay quite dry and is out of the main seepage lines.
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Any more details on whats reported to be dry? I'd assumed it was out for the count...
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Its cruxy with a particularly bouldery sequence after a few metres of tiring big moves with awkward clips. Not really appropriate for 'stamina plodders'.