UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: GCW on May 29, 2013, 05:09:20 pm
-
I know we've covered this previously in various threads.
I'm about to build a board at home, somewhere between 30 and 40 degrees (I haven't finalised plans as yet). I'm after opinions as to good holds (both hand and foot, bolt on and screw ons) to buy. I'm not hugely bothered about cost if I can get a decent selection over time. I'll also be whittling some of my own holds, but I know this can take a while.
So, hit me up with your favourite holds of various types!
-
Small and large Zenga blocks for footholds (cheap off ebay)
Beastmaker handholds (if you can get them to reply to your emails)
-
Jenga, not zenga!
If you happen to have access to a disc sander, basic handholds are pretty easy to make, providing you have a few bits of nice hardwood.
-
http://www.woodenholds.com/index.php?route=common/home (http://www.woodenholds.com/index.php?route=common/home)
These will probably be the ones we use for the systems board at the bunker, we've heard good things about them, but not actually tried them.
Also they come in mirrored, system board sets.
-
I am not a big fan of wooden holds. I have a very basic set of crimps and pinches on my board, all made from the same wood, and they vary massively due to temperature, humidity, skin and so on.
Obviously a personal choice, I tend to prefer crimps and edges because they are more reliable and a bit more constant even in hot temps.
-
I heard there's someone in Darwen who makes wooden holds...
-
Great, thanks peeps. I'll certainly have a look at those Matt.
I've got the kit to make some myself, it's just finding the time at the moment.
I'm keen to have a mix of wood and plastic once finished.
-
one other thing I'd suggest for cheap and easy holds is varying size bits of dowel, just sand a small flat edge for screwing to the board and hey presto
-
Yes, I've used broom handles in the past which worked well.
-
Yes, I've used broom handles in the past which worked well.
slices of broom handles make excellent footers; they're hard to use so make for good core training as well
-
+1 for jenga blocks
-
Yeah, 9 quid for 54 blocks ain't bad.
Anyone know what's happened with Slap Holds?
-
Just be sure to drill and countersink them, less prone to splitting that way. I chopped mine up to make wee foot blocks too.
Sections of 2x4 make nice pinches as well.
Slap just disappeared? :( Nice holds....
-
I got some Core ones for a friend's board I have been using and wasn't disappointed. They do various sets that have mirrored holds if you want a bit of symmetry on the board http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/core (http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/core)
-
I've looked at Core, Moon, Bleaustone etc so any for/ against views would be helpful. I may well end up getting a few of each and just mix and match with topping up from bits of wood.
-
Do Lapis still do holds? I used to love those crimps they did.
-
Looks like it. (http://www.lapisholds.com/media/files/Lapis_kat_2011.pdf) No idea who stocks them though, I will investigate. Cheers Nemo.
-
Maybe some of these? (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/machined-holds)
-
I have looked at those. I may get some dependent upon how much I get for my left kidney.
-
My thought too, look amazing but price reflects it.
Be interested to hear your wall design thoughts GCW, I'm planning something similar shortly once I can get shot of some of the boxes stacked in the garage!
-
They've got some of the BM holds on the board at the Depot, they are very slick, to the point where I didn't find them that pleasant to climb on, as you can just ping off randomly. Perhaps they would be better on a less steep board, but it would be hard to climb when you are down an arm and a leg!
-
I'm still planning at present. I'm torn between steepness and height at present as the workhouse I'm building it in has finite length. A 40 degree board would be good but at a board length of 3.5m there's not a lot of space for the fall out zone should you swing off. I need to do some geometry to get a compromise of steepness/ height/ safety. Work in progress, but I can certainly put up pics/ details once I make a start if that would be of use to anyone.
-
Sounds good - i have a similar dilemma as far as fall out zone goes, as I think landing on the corner of a chest freezer would cause some discomfort. must be a forumla to work to.
Glad the workhouse has a finite length, be a bitch to paint otherwise. :)
-
If you cut loose on my board you tend to hit the wall. Just means you don't cut, or not wildly, thus improving your core. Safe enough unless you have pointy things on said wall...
-
Thought about configuring it so you can have it (for example) at 30 deg with no kickboard, but can be moved/rebolted to 40/45 deg with a appropriate sized kickboard - if you get what I mean - so you can shift the wholething up at the base and along at the top etc...
-
I had thought of it, but I'll be putting a joist across between walls to support the top of the board, so once it's in it's not easy to alter.
-
I wouldn't bother with a kickboard, even on a 45.
-
Old mattress against the wall? Or a pad?
-
It's an old church door with spiky fittings!
-
I've used carpet underlay offcuts to pad corners, radiators, door handles etc? You can layer it up in sections and glue or staple it in place.
-
I know, but any aesthetics will need to be signed off by the better half :lol:
-
Got a shitload of riba riba underlay underlay to use. Would have had more if well meaning dad-in-law hadn't taken it all to the dump while I was at work.
-
Some of the foam stuff looks kinda tie dye....
-
If your struggling for space, one of the boards i built at uni in my room was 3x 8x4's sideways, first one at 45, second at 80, 3rd at 15, with a foot and half kick board. This was a really cool board and gave you a lot of climbing for the space.
If you want any woody's pm me Gareth and i can do you some for a good price.. ive a load at the mo anything between 2 & 5 quid each, might have to do some custom though if your building a 40-45deg.
-
It's a decent space really- 2.6m wide, 4m high, and (from memory) about 4ish long.
I may well drop you a line at some point Paul. I'll get on with building in the next couple of months I expect.
-
Would echo nibs on wooden holds, they can get a bit variable with temo. Although feet and crimos have been fine on my board. I got a load of holds from theclimbingholdcompany on ebay and ive been pretty impressed. Get a good mix and you should be reet...
-
It's an old church door with spiky fittings!
Great motivation not to fail....
-
Now the board is all but finished, I'm turning attention to matting. We* want something that looks nice and is functional. We also need to move part of any matting in order to open the outer doors (unfortunately they open inwards).
Has anyone any recommendations for nice matting?
I've got various holds now (Moon, Bleaustone etc) but I've not used them in anger so can't comment yet.
*err, well.....
-
Nowt wrong with a second hand mattress ! :w00t: usually free too, that's what I've got, with mats on top.
However, if you (pl) don't want that - local used gym mats? I briefly looked into buying new matting of the Gym type and nearly had a coronary when I saw the pricing :jaw:
-
I think she wants something posh, so "old" ain't a word to be uttered.
-
The heap of assorted old cushions, manky mattresses etc look a lot better with an old beadspread or something thrown over them and tucked in. I've kept a load of offcuts of old underfelt too.
-
True, although I think we're after something like this:
(http://www.pjentertainments.co.uk/new_images/climbing_wall2.jpg)
-
Just buy some (2) 8x4'x8" gym mats.
We use http://www.olympicgymnasium.com/ (http://www.olympicgymnasium.com/) because they were the cheapest we found and the've been reliable for the 3 times we've used them.
We use them under the 45* board at the Bunker and they're plenty thick enough and toggle together to minimise the drifting apart thing.
A more expensive solution for sure, but easier on the eye (and to keep clean) the a pile of old mattresses and underlay...
Not the best web site, you're better just searching for "crash mats" than trying to locate it through the menu.