UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: tomtom on May 25, 2013, 11:26:37 am
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Just been up to Harmers with Andy Popp and we both managed BabyBloc without the broken hold. It climbs quite differently but is still really good. Goes up the BabyBloc line but makes use of a couple of holds from Self Harmer (with Lf and LH).
Stiff Cheshire wall climbing with small crimps and balancy moves. Lovely. We both felt it was harder than Babybloc (7A+) so propose 7B.
:)
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That was quick Tom! If this is 7B its the first one I've done in a good while, so a little YYFY. I was there not long after 8 to get cool temps; it was beautiful, quiet and fresh. What's more, home now but going out again in the afternoon!
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That was quick Tom! If this is 7B its the first one I've done in a good while, so a little YYFY. I was there not long after 8 to get cool temps; it was beautiful, quiet and fresh. What's more, home now but going out again in the afternoon!
Did it from the phone while resting at Helsby.. found your little bloc ;)
7A+ or 7B? Well I thought the original was a fairly stiff 7A+ and this adds a couple of moves and makes the later ones more tenuous so I'd plump for the higher. Needs a couple of repeats from others before it settles down - dont mind if Its lower, I'm just happy the problem goes again!
We both did it in the finest of sketchy style! Lunge, scrittle, slap :)
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Just seen this. Good work guys, I may drag myself up there soon to have a look although I fear that my sandstone mojo will be hiding after so many months of limestone jug hauling. Will have to sort that out.
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Be good to know what you think Ben...
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Did Babybloc get done after the hold breakage or does this completely supersede it?
I'm planning on popping to Harmer's tomorrow and trying to come up with a realistic tick list as may be slightly time-limited.
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No. This supercedes it. Or is the same butnuses holds to the left. The key crimp on babybloc came off under my foot I’m afraid.
There’s a nice eliminate going up the wall to the right without using any of the large block holes (the line left of door mouse Arête that’s 7aa+ or 7b
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Hope you find it clean/dry. The Mudlark in the smaller quarry is nice little test-piece (again, if clean and dry).
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Thanks chaps. Looking on UKC it seems the place has been getting good traffic since it's been dry lately. I'll have a look at The Mudlark but don't expect that it's been climbed since 2015 so likely to be grim.
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Rumour has it that a certain greasy ginger scouse ex pat was shut down by The Dark Ark recently... :whistle:
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Shocker! Andy will be delighted to hear that. I noticed that Crouch had been there in the last few days. Hopefully follow his chalk up High Heaven.
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Andy will be delighted to hear that
I would never be so shallow!
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Half time (maybe, if we go back up later: unlikely) sit rep. I've had my arse handed to me. I blame the baking sun. Never underestimate Cheshire Sandstone's ability to expose your innermost punter.