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places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: cha1n on May 24, 2013, 03:06:26 pm

Title: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: cha1n on May 24, 2013, 03:06:26 pm
It's looking like I'll be heading to North Wales tomorrow to pick up a motorhome for our eurotrip this year!

I've got minor pully injuries to both ring finger A2 pulleys at the moment so wondering if anyone has any recommendations for steep problems with bigger holds up to 7B ish around the North Wales area.

Cheers!
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: andy_e on May 24, 2013, 03:10:13 pm
Cromlech Roof Crack should fit the bill!
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: cha1n on May 24, 2013, 03:38:22 pm
Oh my, there's no hand jamming involved is there? There is practically no soft tissue around my hands, they're all bone (hand jams hurt)!
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: ducko on May 24, 2013, 03:40:52 pm
Bus stop, maybe try a few things in the cave, elephantitus great problem
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: andy_e on May 24, 2013, 03:43:16 pm
No, it's more of a roof flake than a roof crack! Big powerful moves across a roof to a tricky few moves to get over the lip.
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: cha1n on May 24, 2013, 03:45:11 pm
Ok, cool. So if I had for the Cromlech boulders, I'll probably find a bunch of stuff that meets my needs?

I thought it was all fingery in the cave? The only problem I tried when I was there last certainly was (rock atrocity).
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: Dolly on May 24, 2013, 03:49:09 pm
You need to crimp on Elephantitus
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: cha1n on May 24, 2013, 04:01:03 pm
Additionally, are the car park around the area OK for sleeping in overnight (will be in a small motorhome) or will I need to drive around a bit to find somewhere suitable?

Any recommendations appreciated!
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: Wood FT on May 24, 2013, 04:07:08 pm
(will be in a small motorhome)

one of these bad boys?

(http://www.thesmartgirlstravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Traveling-in-Style-with-the-Class-B-Motorhome-300x219.png)


Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: cha1n on May 24, 2013, 04:18:18 pm
I wish it had that style but it is *slightly* bigger than that.
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: Richie Crouch on May 24, 2013, 05:37:58 pm
Left wall traverse, clever beaver and beaver cleaver should be ok and cave life short if you fancy something trickier? Maybe organ grinder in split infinity.

In the hills - cave route, cromlech roof crack, sleep depravation, fear of a slopey planet, the pinch, kingdom of rain all spring to mind.
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: tomtom on May 24, 2013, 06:14:12 pm
(will be in a small motorhome)

one of these bad boys?

(http://www.thesmartgirlstravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Traveling-in-Style-with-the-Class-B-Motorhome-300x219.png)


(http://www.instablogsimages.com/images/2011/01/19/vario-perfect-1150-sh_6uZw1_48.jpg)
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: lukeh on May 24, 2013, 06:28:59 pm
So if I head for the Cromlech boulders, I'll probably find a bunch of stuff that meets my needs?

Cave route (V6) might be another if you end up at Cromlech... and Ultimate Retro Party is next on my list when I'm in the pass.

BUT last time I tried to climb in the pass on a bank holiday weekend was a wash out as there as no parking in the pass, Nant Peris or Pen Y Pass. Admittedly it was mid morning, but I'd rather head somewhere quieter... possibly sheep pen - you'll love the walk in!
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: cha1n on May 24, 2013, 06:56:01 pm
I'll check them out, cheers Luke. We should be there pretty early (i.e. potentially sleeping there) so fingers crossed, we'll be OK.

After doing the walk-in to Sampson's Stones in the Lake District, everything seems short now!
Title: Re: Big holds, big moves - North Wales
Post by: cha1n on May 26, 2013, 10:03:34 pm
Well I managed to get parking at Cromlech but I wasn't on form. We spent our first night 'wild camping' in our motorhome (the actual reason we were in the area, buying & picking up the vehicle) and parking in a layby in Llanberis pass was a bad idea as it was VERY loud. I did have earplugs but didn't want to use them incase we weren't allowed to sleep there and got moved on.

I did try the Cromlech roof crack and it felt pretty hard for the money, but I was tired (6 hours driving, 5 hours sleep). I think if I went back it would have to be Jerry's roof or Bus stop that got some attention, what cool boulder. I did walk up to sheep's pen (you're joke made sense when I got there, Luke), I actually didn't find the walk-in that bad but my girlfriend kicked up a fuss (and that was without a mat on her back!) so we decided on roadside stuff.

I think we were lucky, I doubt the weather's that good very often in the pass. Cold wind and sunny, loverly!
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