UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: micdesign on April 13, 2013, 01:57:58 pm
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Hi,
I'm a sport design student + amateur climber thinking about doing my project next year on climbing shoes. If I could have your thoughts on this question I be really grateful.
If you could customise a climbing shoe what would you want control over?
Cheers
Mic
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Ha, just to be annoying: I wouldn't want to customise my shoes. They are much to complicated and difficult and I'd rather leave experts to do the best they can and then choose who has done the best job.
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Width
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stiffness and rand tension
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Rubber thickness and coverage (i.e. over toe box etc.)
Closure mechanism
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.If you could customise a climbing shoe what would you want control over?
The entire construction process therefore allowing me to recreate an exact replica of the La Sportiva Venoms I miss so dearly :(
On a serious note, and specific to me, I would want a lower volume, slimmer fitting slipper or velcro boot. Sensitivity is key for me, as is basic stickiness hence why I miss the Venoms so much.
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type of rubber
thickness of rubber
stiffness (some have boards in)
width
volume
closure
upper material
colour
degree of downturn
Actually, one area which is currently shit for most people on most shoes is the heel. Would prob need to have a mold of your heel taken though!
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Toe box
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I can't decide if you're asking
1. If there was one aspect of a single shoe which could be changed (e.g. the heel rand being on a buckle to tighten or loosen it), which one part of the fit would benefit most from being adaptable?
Or
2. If you could buy a pair or climbing shoes where one aspect was selectable at time of purchase (e.g. heel rand at tension set to 1, 2, or 3 - all of which are meaningless numbers but something you could choose between) which one part of the fit would benefit most from being adaptable?
I initially thought 1, but most answers seem to answering as if 2.
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Its more 2. So if you were buying a pair of shoes and you could customize them on an online interface (example. Nike ID except you actually get to adjust the performance of the shoe and not just change the colors and write your name on it and then pay a ridiculous about of money for it). Features like toe box shape, rubber thickness, down turn can be given actual values.
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For me.
Sole stiffness.
I struggle to find a good stiff edging shoe at my size.
Toe knuckle width.
Most way too tight, and can ruin a good day out.
Heel cup tension.
I usually find them too loose. And the option of a cushioned or uncushioned heel. Some like them, some don't.
These seem to affect people with bigger feet. I am street shoe size 11, and people i know with smaller feet seem to find better fitting stickies.
Incidentally, the old la sportiva tao were the best shoe i ever had for my feet. I miss them so i do.
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On a serious note, and specific to me, I would want a lower volume, slimmer fitting slipper or velcro boot. Sensitivity is key for me, as is basic stickiness hence why I miss the Venoms so much.
Have you tried these?
(http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/images/la_sportiva_python.jpg)
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Ha, just to be annoying: I wouldn't want to customise my shoes. They are much to complicated and difficult and I'd rather leave experts to do the best they can and then choose who has done the best job.
Besides the fact that there are at least a hundred brand new bouldering boots on the market that fit your need...
http://bergshop.com/9,30ac4b8c-5c0f-4f6b-8b6e-28f95021c505.vcs (http://bergshop.com/9,30ac4b8c-5c0f-4f6b-8b6e-28f95021c505.vcs)
If you need size 40,5; 43 or 43,5 there you go. Write them and beg them to ship to the UK.
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Simple request; being able to buy pairs of shoes that are different sizes. Large proportion of the population has one foot bigger than the other.
Other than that; more bling!
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I'd like flashing led's in the midsole like LA lights trainers.
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Simple request; being able to buy pairs of shoes that are different sizes. Large proportion of the population has one foot bigger than the other.
Other than that; more bling!
Evolv does that. But i think only for US Customers
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Getting a totally custom fit would be awesome. Imagine this: download Custom RockshoeTM app onto smartphone, take photos using app of both feet, calibrated measurements get emailed to manufacturer including your options for stiffness, rubber, design features etc. Perfectly fitting shoes arrive by post a week later.
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yeah, then a week later, the bailiffs arrive because you can't keep up with repayments on the loan you took out to buy those expensive rock boots! :tease:
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Simple request; being able to buy pairs of shoes that are different sizes. Large proportion of the population has one foot bigger than the other.
Other than that; more bling!
Evolv does that. But i think only for US Customers
What, the bling or the odd feet?
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considering on how evolv shoes usually look, they do both. Bling and different sizes.
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Didn't one of the fashion designers do some climbing shoes once?
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Think they used to do both:
bling via evolv xy, now discontinued (but from this (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/evolv-xy/107157307#a_107157950) post options other than colour were available).
and from here (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/evolv-demorto-shoe-review)
As with all Evolv shoes, split-sizing for people whose feet are different sizes, costs an extra $30
In fact here (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-gear/view/evolvs-xy-program), suggests you could do pretty much everything the original poster suggested with the xy program.
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In fact here (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-gear/view/evolvs-xy-program), suggests you could do pretty much everything the original poster suggested with the xy program.
Looks like it. Maybe switch project to some circular devices to allow people continual motion by bicycle? :)