Print Page - IFSC World Cup 2013

places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Durbs on March 22, 2013, 09:25:09 am

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on March 22, 2013, 09:25:09 am

First qualifiers today

Men - Can't see any GBRs in the top 28 :(

Women - Shauna, Alex, Diane and Mina all looking good. Women's qualifiers possibly a little too easy?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on March 22, 2013, 10:30:58 am

Struggling to find the link. Where's the live feed, please?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: mr__j5 on March 22, 2013, 10:43:39 am

Just go to http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/ (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/) these days.

If an event is currently live, then it should be showing on the front page.
Although, from reading their facebook feed it looks like some Chrome users where struggling with this.

Replays should also appear here http://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel (http://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel) after not too long.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Richie Crouch on March 22, 2013, 10:47:20 am

So looking at the time conversion... The semis are on tomorrow at 1:15am for us? Then the finals at 8:50am?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: abarro81 on March 22, 2013, 10:50:58 am

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar) then click on event for the qualification results (which, confusingly, don't appear if you just go to the results page).

Would seem that all brit girls got through, though if I read the results right 20 go through and there were only 22 competitors in the qualifiers. All the usual suspects seem to have flashed everything.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on March 22, 2013, 11:41:02 am

For score tracking - there's an IFSC app (iPhone and Android) - but it's just a scoreboard, no stream.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on March 22, 2013, 11:41:44 am

Cheers all.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on March 22, 2013, 08:46:27 pm

Quote from: Richie Crouch on March 22, 2013, 10:47:20 am

So looking at the time conversion... The semis are on tomorro at 1:15am for us? Then the finals at 8:50am?

Looks right, but I think I'll skip the half hour observation period and tune in at 9.20am when the bouldering starts!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 05, 2013, 11:08:07 am

Anyone watching?
Looks like Shauna and Mina should go through to semis, mens Q at 1400 BST

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 05, 2013, 11:17:16 am

Watching the scoreboard via the app which isn't quiet as exciting...

Do people thing I'll be ok to record from YouTube tomorrow?
Got a wedding so will miss the live stream, but don't want to wait a week for the non-live youtube version to appear (or was that related to China and it's weird rules?)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 05, 2013, 11:20:06 am

dunno. Leah has just topped prob 1. looks like Diane missed out on semis

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: J_duds on April 05, 2013, 11:55:04 am

Quote from: Durbs on April 05, 2013, 11:17:16 am

Watching the scoreboard via the app which isn't quiet as exciting...

Do people thing I'll be ok to record from YouTube tomorrow?
Got a wedding so will miss the live stream, but don't want to wait a week for the non-live youtube version to appear (or was that related to China and it's weird rules?)

How do you record from youtube?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 05, 2013, 12:04:29 pm

I use Internet Download Manager - lets you "Download this video" from YouTube, just not sure if a) it'll work on a live stream on YouTube and b) whether the stream will be smooth enough to actually bother.

As it's being streamed on YT, do you think it'll be available straight after to watch "normally"?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on April 05, 2013, 12:41:01 pm

Quote from: Durbs on April 05, 2013, 12:04:29 pm

just not sure if a) it'll work on a live stream on YouTube and

Don't think so. Have tried in the past. I think capturing live streams is fairly complicated, though I'm sure it's possible.

Quote

As it's being streamed on YT, do you think it'll be available straight after to watch "normally"?

No. They took about a week to upload the last one. Annoying, when you want to watch things before finding out the results.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: hongkongstuey on April 05, 2013, 01:49:24 pm

Quote from: J_duds on April 05, 2013, 11:55:04 am

How do you record from youtube?

the easiest way i found was to simply type 'ss' before youtube in the address - takes you to a download page (i.e. www.ssyoutube (http://www.ssyoutube)...)

insanely simple way of doing it (although i doubt it works with live streams...)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 05, 2013, 01:50:36 pm

Exactly - I'm going to be monstrously hungover on Sunday so seems a perfect time to watch it, but it's tricky avoiding finding out the results for anything more than a couple of days (Facebook & Twitter spoilt the last one...)

Not sure why it took so long to upload last time - as far as I could tell (I watched half live, half on YouTube), there was no editing, just a straight upload.

Meh, I'll hit "download this video" and see what happens. Suspect it will fail as IDM uses multi-part downloading to speed things up, which is obviously impossible on a live stream.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 05, 2013, 01:51:44 pm

Quote from: hongkongstuey on April 05, 2013, 01:49:24 pm

Quote from: J_duds on April 05, 2013, 11:55:04 am
How do you record from youtube?

the easiest way i found was to simply type 'ss' before youtube in the address - takes you to a download page (i.e. www.ssyoutube (http://www.ssyoutube)...)

insanely simple way of doing it (although i doubt it works with live streams...)

Good knowledge - never knew that :)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 06, 2013, 07:45:45 pm

Balls, one attempt too many.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: abarro81 on April 06, 2013, 09:04:42 pm

IFSC Climbing World Cup Millau 2013 - Bouldering - Replay Finals (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftztKueD7Ik#ws)

Replay up now for those who were after it, they're obviously getting sorted to get everything online really quick

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: rich d on April 06, 2013, 11:42:35 pm

7b+ for the hardest problem...hmmm not sure where they got the grades from. Good quality on the YouTube

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on April 07, 2013, 01:21:34 am

Yeah, that was good - exciting climbing and very few streaming issues.

Anyone else a bit unconvinced by the run and jump problems that pop up in these things every so often? They're vaguely entertaining, but only in the same way that I imagine it would be amusing to watch a professional hurdler attempt to climb a boulder problem before being allowed onto the track.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 08, 2013, 09:55:46 am

:popcorn:

That was highly entertaining - coming down to the last problem for the women, and the same for silver/bronze for the men.

Didn't like Women's #1 - It seemed to be either you did or you didn't, making the bonus hold pretty redundant. Maybe a mini-crimp out to the side to offer a harder alternative method?

Semi-gutted for Shauna, though Silver is still pretty bad-ass.

Russians had a shocker.

Top marks for speedy upload as well, Sunday morning viewing was much appreciated.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on April 10, 2013, 10:57:18 am

Quote from: Durbs on April 08, 2013, 09:55:46 am

:popcorn:

That was highly entertaining - coming down to the last problem for the women, and the same for silver/bronze for the men.

Russians had a shocker.

Top marks for speedy upload as well, Sunday morning viewing was much appreciated.

It came down to the last problem for the men as well, if Kili hadn't done it and GuiGui had then we would have heard the Marseillaise

Not really a shocker for Dima and Rustam, both in the final isn't that bad.

Speedy upload especially good when you consider that Mike, Dan and Colin had to de-rig after the comp (2.5 hours) and then were on the road at 0830 the next morning. They work hard those boys :bow:

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 10, 2013, 11:06:21 am

Oooo - we're conversing on seperate channels about the same event.
Madness ;)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on April 10, 2013, 11:09:33 am

Quote from: Durbs on April 10, 2013, 11:06:21 am

Oooo - we're conversing on seperate channels about the same event.
Madness ;)

You can speak differently here

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 10, 2013, 11:12:08 am

True dat.

Incidentally - aside from Pooch - where the Yanks at?

Seem to be quite under represented - do they just not travel well (Japan seem to do ok) or do they not do the World Cup? There seems to be a healthy US comp scene - are they just being American as with their baseball and competing amongst themselves whilst being thrashed internationally?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on April 10, 2013, 11:16:57 am

Quote from: Durbs on April 10, 2013, 11:12:08 am

True dat.

Incidentally - aside from Pooch - where the Yanks at?

Seem to be quite under represented - do they just not travel well (Japan seem to do ok) or do they not do the World Cup? There seems to be a healthy US comp scene - are they just being American as with their baseball and competing amongst themselves whilst being thrashed internationally?

According to Pooch American sponsors aren't interested in the World Cups. The American way?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: krymson on April 10, 2013, 11:26:47 am

In the US the focus is on the outdoors above all else. We're competitive for sure but there simply isn't the psyche for climbing on plastic and climbing indoors is viewed as training for "the real stuff".

I currently live in Asia and it's a bit the opposite - climbing outside is still respected, but pulling on plastic doesn't have the stigma it has in the US, and winning comps is actually cooler than sending hard outdoors is, so there's a lot more dollars for athletes to compete.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 10, 2013, 11:50:35 am

I'd say here outdoors is still king, but we have enough indoor/mixed climbers to put together a good team.

Not sure I buy that as to why you guys aren't really in the World Cup - suspect Graeme's answer might be more on the (lack of) money. I've seen several videos and reports from US comps, even the days when DG and Sharma were competing.

All the "big" named US climbers I can think of do tend to be outdoors guys, but the UK ones tend to do both...

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 26, 2013, 12:37:02 pm

No British men through to the semis, no Kilian either!
Womens qualification in a couple of hours

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 26, 2013, 01:51:28 pm

:o

"Interressant" as the French would say, probably whilst smoking and eating a baguette.

Rustam & Dimitrii pretty far down too.

Good effort from Nedward & Babtridge though :)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: JackAus on April 26, 2013, 02:51:22 pm

Nice work on the 2 Aussies getting in there...

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 26, 2013, 05:28:18 pm

Anna was hardly stellar either. Mina and Shauna both cruised through, looks like Leah's gonna make it too.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on April 27, 2013, 02:33:40 pm

Good semis. So close for Mina! Finals will be exciting...

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: davej on April 27, 2013, 04:34:38 pm

The british girls are awesome. Whats happened to the brit guys though!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 27, 2013, 07:00:09 pm

finals on now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=D-YiSWMGlno# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=D-YiSWMGlno#)!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 27, 2013, 08:47:09 pm

well that's an almighty fuck up by the judges

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: 205Chris on April 27, 2013, 08:51:44 pm

Quote from: Duma on April 27, 2013, 08:47:09 pm

well that's an almighty fuck up by the judges

Only just tuned in. What happened?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Dr T on April 27, 2013, 08:58:34 pm

Quote from: 205Chris on April 27, 2013, 08:51:44 pm

Quote from: Duma on April 27, 2013, 08:47:09 pm
well that's an almighty fuck up by the judges

Only just tuned in. What happened?

Allowed Jacob a send that started "illegally" then got him back out at the end to have another go

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 27, 2013, 09:06:49 pm

fucking crushed it anyway though, so all's well...

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: 205Chris on April 27, 2013, 09:16:38 pm

Cheers. Tuned in just as the commentator was making some disparaging remark about Mr. Alderson then saw Jakob rinse that problem.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on April 27, 2013, 10:14:05 pm

Shame, cause his successful attempt earlier that was disallowed was way cooler.

Not the best finals I thought - men's too hard (only 4 tops in total) and women's too easy (3 top girls had 12 tops in 14 attempts, and winner decided on countback :yawn: )

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on April 27, 2013, 11:05:16 pm

I thought the same, but hey, there's always going to be a lot of luck getting the difficulty right. Still some good entertainment.

Jakob was the star of this one. Hard to get excited about the women's efforts when the problems looked like a walkover for the front runners. Wonder why Shauna had such a block on problem 2?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on April 29, 2013, 09:58:19 am

I didn't mind the Jakob controversy, but only because he crushed it - added to the excitement at the end and was a good result.

Ladies - yeah, a few too many flashes, Shauna not getting F2 was a shame as it took some of the excitement out from a Brit perspective for the last two climbs. Will be interesting to read Shauna's blog when she updates.

Liked the problems though - none of that run-and-a-jump malarky, always enjoy a good slab and a dyno to boot.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: JackAus on May 12, 2013, 10:42:55 am

Barrans through to the semis. Kassay in aswell.
Leah, Mina and Shauna all in.

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: flyguy on May 12, 2013, 02:19:16 pm

What time are the finals starting? It says 7:00 gmt +2 does this mean its 9:00 in the uk? Cheers

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: JackAus on May 12, 2013, 02:32:01 pm

Quote from: flyguy on May 12, 2013, 02:19:16 pm

What time are the finals starting? It says 7:00 gmt +2 does this mean its 9:00 in the uk? Cheers

:slap: Nope, 7:00.

Only Shauna through, Kassay through.

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: flyguy on May 12, 2013, 02:41:40 pm

Whoops, cheers for that!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: iain on May 12, 2013, 03:25:48 pm

Flyguy, it will be on at 6.

we're gmt+1 (http://wwp.greenwichmeantime.co.uk/time-zone/europe/uk/time/british-summer-time/)

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: flyguy on May 12, 2013, 03:36:02 pm

Cheers Iain. Thought we were gmt major fail. Thanks won't miss it now.

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: flyguy on May 12, 2013, 03:37:37 pm

Followed the link, everyday is a learning day.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: dontfollowme on May 12, 2013, 07:23:06 pm

sack the band

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: flyguy on May 12, 2013, 07:42:55 pm

A bit tedious. The climbing is good tho Anna is a machine.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Dave Garry on May 13, 2013, 07:54:27 am

I think I may well have just fallen for Anna yesterday :wub:

That aside I'm really enjoying this years comp...not sure why its attracted me more this time around but it has definitely grabbed my attention that's for sure.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: finbarrr on May 13, 2013, 08:43:53 am

Quote from: Dave Garry on May 13, 2013, 07:54:27 am

I think I may well have just fallen for Anna yesterday :wub:

get in line :-[

i really enjoyed the problems by legend jacky godoffe , hardly a boring bolder in the whole comp

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Ti_pin_man on May 13, 2013, 08:49:41 am

the band was ... well, ok. but what the hell was the point of the dancers before the comp? :badidea:

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: highrepute on May 13, 2013, 11:24:03 am

Anna is amazing. She just looks so much stonger than the others, very impressive to watch.

Here's a link to the final vid
IFSC Climbing World Cup Log Dragomer 2013 - Bouldering - Replay Finals (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2NKIzr5dKE#ws)
Here's how the brit's (and honorary) faired.

3. Coxey Shauna
7. Puccio Alex
14. Leslie-Wujasytk Mina
17 Crane Leah
27 Tracy Michela
31. Merrick Diane

8. Barrans Dave
35. Newman Tom
49. West Ben
53. Partridge Jon

Well done to all.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 13, 2013, 12:13:38 pm

Anna is on fire this year, though it's been pretty close a few times, which the results don't always show. For instance, if Shauna had stuck the penultimate hold on problem 2 - @1.07:24 in the vid (last move looked straightforward) - she'd have had 3 tops in 4 attempts, and would have got gold.

Similar could be said for several of the competitors, which is great - makes it exciting.

Tehnical issues, just in case Graeme is reading - Would be nice if the clock timer actually fitted on screen (though this seems to have been fixed for the replays?). Also, the live results on the website aren't well displayed - 1. they only display the first 5 names (why not just make the box bigger??), and 2. when you scroll down they turn white, making them really hard to read.

Overall though - great comp, good setting. I also think the commentator has grown into his role and is doing a good job - he might not know climbing inside out (a co-commentator would help here) but he brings the right level of enthusiasm.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: highrepute on May 13, 2013, 01:30:54 pm

Quote from: r-man on May 13, 2013, 12:13:38 pm

Overall though - great comp, good setting. I also think the commentator has grown into his role and is doing a good job - he might not know climbing inside out (a co-commentator would help here) but he brings the right level of enthusiasm.

I agree - it is always good when Chris WP joins him.

A test-match special type thing with rolling co/guest-commentators could be cool. get some of the other competitors to come and say a few words.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: a dense loner on May 13, 2013, 01:51:33 pm

Are you trying to get Chris out of a job?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 13, 2013, 02:19:58 pm

Chris is the best co-commentator they've had, though he isn't there very often. Shame Daniel didn't persuade Mina this time round - he kept mentioning that she was standing right next to him.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: standard on May 13, 2013, 02:20:26 pm

The camera work is repeatedly poor in the finals unfortunately.

When the women's and men's problems are next to each other, they refuse to use a camera angle that shows both climbers at the same time, and only focus on one of them. It's bewildering why this is done. Even more bewildering is why they don't then show replays of what was missed from the other climber

Then there was the bizarre 'let's look at the ladies' arses' shot on W1.

http://imgur.com/a/ekZaA (http://imgur.com/a/ekZaA)

Agreed that the commentator is getting better, but he still needs a co-commentator who can talk about the climbing side of things.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on May 13, 2013, 10:02:25 pm

In the finals the blocs that are climbed simultaneously aren't next to each other, they are always leap frogged to make best use of the space ie the top of mens 3 might be above the start of women's 2. So a single camera wouldn't cover both men and women.

I thought they were showing replays in Kitzbehuel. They couldn't do it in Log because on Saturday the mixer self destructed and the spare one they flew outon Saturday could only record the stream, not the feed from the other cameras so could only show trye replays rather than the stuff you hadn't already seen.

BTW I don't really see much of the stream as it goes out as I often have other shit to do when I am at the comps, mainly sorting out issues involving Jakob ::)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 13, 2013, 10:50:56 pm

For those struggling to find what they want on the new site, looks like the old website is still being updated...

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 13, 2013, 11:40:35 pm

Just spotted this page about prize money, which is something that never seems to be mentioned. Just curious - where does the money come from, not just for this but for the whole comp circuit? Think someone said spectators get in free, so is it funded by sponsors or membership fees?

http://ifsc.egroupware.net/?page_name=prizemoney (http://ifsc.egroupware.net/?page_name=prizemoney)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: mr__j5 on May 14, 2013, 11:37:55 am

Quote from: r-man on May 13, 2013, 10:50:56 pm

For those struggling to find what they want on the new site, looks like the old website is still being updated...

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org)

I find that I use the old site more than the new site, since it is more readable and way more functional.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: gme on May 14, 2013, 11:58:17 am

God the prize money is shite. £250 for getting to the finals, it wouldnt even cover your flight and hotel. I didnt realise that it was so bad, is it the same for the lead comps.

Comparing it to surfing, which i thought had a similar participation rate, where the prize fund for each comp is $500,000 shared between 35 surfers it blows me away.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: T_B on May 14, 2013, 12:13:09 pm

When Moon has its on boutique in Meadowhall (a la O'Neill) then maybe the prize money will increase?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 14, 2013, 12:31:43 pm

Northface and Patagonia etc have their own shops in inner cities though don't they?

I suspect its more to do with viewing figures and the interest (or lack of) from the majority of climbers, let alone the wider public.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: standard on May 14, 2013, 12:55:05 pm

Quote from: GraemeA on May 13, 2013, 10:02:25 pm

I thought they were showing replays in Kitzbehuel. They couldn't do it in Log because on Saturday the mixer self destructed and the spare one they flew outon Saturday could only record the stream, not the feed from the other cameras so could only show trye replays rather than the stuff you hadn't already seen.

Apologies then, complaint retracted!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: T_B on May 14, 2013, 12:58:46 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on May 14, 2013, 12:31:43 pm

I suspect its more to do with viewing figures and the interest (or lack of) from the majority of climbers, let alone the wider public.

I don't know, they should send em up everest or something

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on May 14, 2013, 01:14:54 pm

Indeed - plus if you look at an average surfers gear vs a boulder, there's more money to be spent in surfing...

I thought the venue looked quite empty for finals, especially given it's free.

The live band... at first I hated it, then they got better. They had another live band at an earlier final who were better - rode the atmosphere more. When done well, I think it works - possibly one of the issues was the sound quality, ambient mics mostly picking up the cymbals and snare with just farty bass notes...

Graeme - What Jakob issues?

Top comp overall. Anna's looking pretty un-stoppable at the moment, men's looks pretty open.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 14, 2013, 01:34:41 pm

Quote from: gme on May 14, 2013, 11:58:17 am

God the prize money is shite...is it the same for the lead comps?

Says on that page it's the same for each discipline.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: gme on May 14, 2013, 01:49:03 pm

Its too easy to dismiss it due to the fact that no one is interested in comps as the same thing can be said of surfing, in fact i would say that there is a lot more anti comp sentiment in surfing than climbing.

I also dont get the "sold in meadowhall" arguement as the likes of North face and Berghaus are sold in a lot of the bug department stores. Climbing and surfing are very similar sports if you forget the actual physical activity. Both individual rather than team and both very much lifestyle activities that involve lots of travel to exotic places.

I would also say that there is less stuff available to buy for surfing than climbing and that the surf companies basically sell tee shirts, sweatshirts and shorts to make there billions. Why cant climbing do the same?

Final comment is that i would guess that climbing/mountaineering get more mainstream media coverage than surfing (maybe not in AUS).

I dont have an answer just wondering

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 14, 2013, 02:05:39 pm

Quote from: gme on May 14, 2013, 01:49:03 pm

Final comment is that i would guess that climbing/mountaineering get more mainstream media coverage than surfing (maybe not in AUS).

The image of surfing is cooler and sexier, thus more lucrative. Lots of people would like to spend their days on a beach, with sunshine and scantily clad men/ladies. That's what makes the money. Surfing footage also looks exciting with a music backing.

Climbing is seen and marketed as EXTREME - thus not for the avergae person. The thought of clinging for dear life to a cliff, or falling into a crevasse, or battling the raging wind and snow...not quite so easy to sell.

However, I reckon the audiences of the climbing comps will increase over the next decade. The live feeds are the beginning. It's good entertainment, and whilst there might be a body of (mostly older) climbers who don't want to know, I'm sure the next generation of younger climbers will embrace it as yet another facet of the climbing world.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: gme on May 14, 2013, 04:00:24 pm

Surfing comps pretty much died until the use of live streaming. Before then they relied on getting as many people to watch them live as possible and therefore they were held on city beaches with piss poor waves.

Now they are held in the best waves in the world without much of a live audience but are streamed to millions via the web. They manage to do this from the middle of nowhere and include three or four different camera angles, water footage, slow mo replays, the lot. So getting an audience is not important.

The comparisons with climbing continue with the fact that to a non surfer the comps must be piss boring. There are normaly only 10-15 waves ridden (each only 10-15 secs long) in a 35 minute heat, the rest of the time its film of people bobbing up and down in the sea. When they do catch a wave its very hard for the layman to distinguish between the good and bad waves and, as with climbing, it all looks very easy.

With both sports the only time the general media are interested is when its "to the max" ie a massive wave or a french bloke climbing up a building.

Climbing takes place in beautiful places just as surfing does and involves "beautiful" fit looking scantily clad people, although surfing does appear to utilize womens bikini clad flesh more in its marketing.

I could go on but other than it not being marketed well i cant see any reason why it is different.

Back on topic i really enjoyed the comp, only the second one i have seen but i thought it was a good watch, bit rough round the edges but still good. And i love the surf comps too.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: slackline on May 14, 2013, 04:06:54 pm

Quote from: gme on May 14, 2013, 04:00:24 pm

Climbing takes place in beautiful places just as surfing does

The competitions don't really though they tend to be fabricated structures rather than in the Verdon Gorge.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 15, 2013, 12:55:25 am

Quote from: gme on May 14, 2013, 04:00:24 pm

The comparisons with climbing continue with the fact that to a non surfer the comps must be piss boring.

I can confirm!

A surfing housemate once tried to educate me. Fascinating for the ten minute novelty period, but after you've seen a surfer ride a wave for 30sec, there's a while lot of nothing happening...

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on May 15, 2013, 11:27:31 am

Converesly my non-climbnig parents & sister absslutely loved watching the BBCs at the Outdoor Show last year (granted it was live, not on telly). I think the fact it's actually very un-technical to watch; they get up it or they don't, seperates it from surfing which (I think?) is scored on a number of areas which a lay-person wouldn't get.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: mr__j5 on May 15, 2013, 03:20:44 pm

I think a WC bouldering final could be entertaining for a non-climber to watch.
Especially if it was edited down to a 30min TV show, by cutting out all of the dead time where no climbing is actually happening.

Also, you would need to make more effort to explain who is currently in the lead etc. Unless you can find the correct page on the IFSC site and know what it means, it's pretty hard some times to know whether somebody has a chance of winning if they do the last problem within so many goes etc. Unfortunately, in the current state, the commentator doesn't know any better either... or from talking to Diane when she is there watching, the live audience.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 18, 2013, 03:22:54 pm

For those of you who watched the semis, here's Dmitrii defeating the unholdable sloper (the live cams were focussed elsewhere).

Dmitry Sharafutdinov - The Mono (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fr0UrBJkrr0#ws)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: krymson on May 18, 2013, 03:56:48 pm

I like how at the end he's just like "yay." 8)
Legend.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: a dense loner on May 18, 2013, 04:15:56 pm

What times the final?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: cheque on May 18, 2013, 04:34:01 pm

Quote from: r-man on May 18, 2013, 03:22:54 pm

For those of you who watched the semis, here's Dmitrii defeating the unholdable sloper (the live cams were focussed elsewhere).

Dmitry Sharafutdinov - The Mono (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fr0UrBJkrr0#ws)

I'm amazed to learn that you can use the bolt-holes in the holds in climbing comps!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Doylo on May 18, 2013, 04:36:44 pm

Quote from: cheque on May 18, 2013, 04:34:01 pm

Quote from: r-man on May 18, 2013, 03:22:54 pm
For those of you who watched the semis, here's Dmitrii defeating the unholdable sloper (the live cams were focussed elsewhere).

Dmitry Sharafutdinov - The Mono (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fr0UrBJkrr0#ws)

I'm amazed to learn that you can use the bolt-holes in the holds in climbing comps!

That's disgusting

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Carnage on May 19, 2013, 11:26:12 pm

Ha - setting fail.

Should've stuffed the hole with rolled up finger tape. Puts an end to that kind of shenanigans.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: psychomansam on May 20, 2013, 07:17:46 am

Could've been left that way on purpose :shrug:

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: a dense loner on May 20, 2013, 07:25:06 am

No, they had a foot of slope Ming around it. It was just an oversight. Using bolt holes isn't really in the spirit of comps, but lookin at it from dimitry's point of view he prob thought I can't use this Ming so I'll use this mono jug which I could climb on all day, it'll be a laugh if nothing else. You would think that this obvious prob would have been eradicated by now tho

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on May 20, 2013, 08:54:14 pm

You lot haven't actually seen the hold, how shallow the mono actually is/was. Luckily a pikey convict (acting on my instructions) purloined said hold and it is somewhere between Innsbruck and The Works as we speak.

Even by Dima's standards what he did was pretty out there.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on May 20, 2013, 09:00:12 pm

Quote from: Carnage on May 19, 2013, 11:26:12 pm

Ha - setting fail.

Should've stuffed the hole with rolled up finger tape. Puts an end to that kind of shenanigans.

No one doing the boulder = even bigger setting fail ;)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 20, 2013, 10:04:57 pm

Agreed, it was one of the highlights of the comp. There's always a lot of volume puzzle solving, but sometimes it's good to see a bit of undiluted beastliness!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: highrepute on May 20, 2013, 10:33:45 pm

sweet effort team GB. First time Mina has broken into the top 10? beast!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: erm, sam on May 20, 2013, 10:48:38 pm

I have been eagerly waiting for the finals replay, but it is still not up. A far cry from last weeks 'within hours' upload..

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: a dense loner on May 20, 2013, 11:16:41 pm

Lord I know that bolt hole would have been v v tiny. I meant it was prob only a jug for dmitri, anyone over 50kilos would prob still be looking for the remains of their finger :o

Monster!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on May 21, 2013, 08:48:56 am

Quote from: erm, sam on May 20, 2013, 10:48:38 pm

I have been eagerly waiting for the finals replay, but it is still not up. A far cry from last weeks 'within hours' upload..

Last week saw the boys have a nice little drive (Slovenia to Austria) with 4 days betweeen comps with nothing much to do except get the replays up. This week was the last European comp for a bit and the comp was in the market place so an instant de rig was required followed by an 8am start for a 20 drive back to Brum. Give Mike from Horizon a break ;)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: erm, sam on May 21, 2013, 09:32:03 am

Didn't mean to sound to grumpy.
I'm slightly embarrassed at how obsessed I have got about watching the bouldering anyway, so it is probably good for me to have a pause.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on May 21, 2013, 03:03:44 pm

Apparently there might be some rights issue, Austrian TV filmed it and gave footage to IFSC.tv so this might be the reason for the delay. Maybe highlights will only be available after Austrian TV have shown their programme. Will do some asking

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on May 21, 2013, 03:09:19 pm

Austrian TV broadcast their highlights tomorrow so maybe IFSC will show their highlights after that

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: erm, sam on May 21, 2013, 06:51:55 pm

Thanks for the research!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 23, 2013, 10:05:35 pm

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/417831_10152858060010644_839018593_n.jpg)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: J_duds on May 25, 2013, 05:31:32 pm

IFSC Climbing World Cup Innsbruck 2013 - Bouldering - Replay Finals (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFsOcy_hnpA#ws)

Innsbruck finals are on you tube :)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: erm, sam on May 26, 2013, 10:44:24 pm

Just seen this. Oh happy day. Been busy these last two days but before then I've been checking every twenty minutes like some sort of addict.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on May 29, 2013, 01:39:32 pm

#Spoiler alert

NSFW :

Overall, thought it was worth the wait.
I agree with some of the YouTube comments that it seems strange that even when you can show 2 climbs side-by-side from one camera shot far back, they still go with the close-up on one of the routes. This would be ok as they then show the replay, but as they can't mute the sound, you can still hear if they other climber's topped out or not.

Being ultra-picky, given everyone was flashing M1 & M2, the focus could've been on W1 & W2, but guess that's partly hindsight? Also sound-levels on CWP were out, but that's just being fussy. Overall they seem to be getting better & better - would be interesting to have some non-finalists co-commentating too.

Kinda crazy to see Team Austria's training facility - think I've seen bigger home training setups!

Roll on Canada!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: abarro81 on May 29, 2013, 01:51:05 pm

Quote from: Durbs on May 29, 2013, 01:39:32 pm

Kinda crazy to see Team Austria's training facility - think I've seen bigger home training setups!

Where on the vid do you get to see that? Had a quick flick through but it wasn't obvious and don't want to watch the whole thing..

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 29, 2013, 01:52:59 pm

It's in one of the Where in the world Puccio/Parsons videos.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: abarro81 on May 29, 2013, 02:14:59 pm

Oh right, saw that. Is that not the Innsbruck wall? Durbs must know some pimp home setups!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on May 29, 2013, 03:38:12 pm

It was before the comp started - about er... 7 minutes in?

Not the entire wall obviously, just the bouldering bit.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 29, 2013, 03:54:05 pm

@31min. It's the same place.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on May 31, 2013, 03:49:12 pm

http://gripped.com/2013/05/sections/news/ongoing-pre-comp-coverage-of-ifsc-hamilton-june-1-2-the-art-of-world-cup-routesetting/ (http://gripped.com/2013/05/sections/news/ongoing-pre-comp-coverage-of-ifsc-hamilton-june-1-2-the-art-of-world-cup-routesetting/)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on June 01, 2013, 09:01:13 pm

mens quals start 9pm uk time http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/ (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/)

Shauna, Mina, Leah, Alex all through to semis

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: a dense loner on June 01, 2013, 09:18:37 pm

Is anyone else having problems watching men's quals?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on June 01, 2013, 09:22:33 pm

working for me

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on June 01, 2013, 09:26:12 pm

maybe try ifsc youtube channel?
http://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel?feature=watch (http://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel?feature=watch)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: abarro81 on June 01, 2013, 09:27:11 pm

fine for me

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: a dense loner on June 01, 2013, 09:30:11 pm

What are you on weak boy? None of them seem to work :'(

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2013, 10:01:59 pm

finals on now:

IFSC Climbing World Cup Toronto 2013 - Bouldering - Finals [LIVE] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWisjhq5fa8#ws)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2013, 10:25:01 pm

Jon Partridge doing a good job on the co comm I reckon

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: erm, sam on June 02, 2013, 11:30:03 pm

Excellent comp!
Agree JP is a good comments bloke. Good at describing the movements and sequence details

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on June 02, 2013, 11:32:39 pm

jesus mother fucking christ Rustam's attempted sequence on M3 was insane

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Stubbs on June 03, 2013, 10:18:51 am

Best finals I've watched, JP's commentary made a lot of difference. Wish Rustam had managed that sequence!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Teaboy on June 03, 2013, 11:15:32 am

Agree with all of the above, commentating was much improved with a knowledgable pundit alongside. I'd still like to hear more background about the competitors.

As well as Rustams crazy sequence I thought Akiyo was the star of the show, the way she hung a couple of the tops, and her sequence on the last problem, had me reacting like this was a proper sporting event......

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Danny on June 03, 2013, 08:20:09 pm

Just seen this also, I agree with the comments.

Well-set problems and Jon Partridge did a great job, thankfully, because the other generic sports commentator came across like a total tube, IMHO of course. Two actual climbers next time would be better I think.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on June 10, 2013, 10:01:16 am

Epic-ness!

Watched Toronto on Friday, Vail on Sunday - 2 of the most exciting rounds so far I'd say.

The atmosphere at Vail was incredible, I'm sure the acoustics and room set-up helped but everyone seemed pumped.
Both were proper nail-biters for both men and women - excellent problems, possibly too hard for men in Vail, but I think we would've seen more tops on M4 if it had been earlier, and possibly all in general had they not climbed the semis & qualis.

Only minor niggle; I'm not a fan of the replacement commentator - bring back Daniel ASAP! (Think he was at a wedding?). His replacement is a bit too "generic commentator" and is a fan of stating the obvious...
Really enjoyed Jon & Alex's contributions, but I guess they're only an option if they don't qualify? Particularly liked the tension between Alex and replacement guy (sorry, can't remember his name) as I got the impression she wasn't a fan.

[Side note:] There's definitely a drinking game to be had when Jon co-commentates. Shot/2-fingers on every "absolutley", and finish your pint on "methodology".

Interesting to see 2 more Americans in the finals, going back to earlier discussions - Angie seemed to struggle with endurance - think she would've crushed if she'd been fresh. Really highlights the level of training the "regulars" are at.
Same as P-Rob - definitely got the skills, just not the reserves?

Final thoughts; desperate for Pooch, Akiyo & Shanua to get a gold, but everytime, Anna just brings it.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: jwi on June 10, 2013, 10:30:02 am

Agree, the best finals I've seen in quite a while... The highlight in the mens final was Gelmanov's crazy sequence on M4 and Sharafutdinov's satisfied expression when he heard the crowd roar: “Good on Rustam, but if even *he* can do it I'll crush it...” his smile seemed to say.

Also feel sorry for Noguchi and Puccio, so close..., but it must be disheartening when they cannot win even when Stöhr waste two tries on a easy problem by starting from the wrong position

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on June 10, 2013, 10:42:27 am

Have to say, I genuinely thought Anna was out the running - she just didn't look to be in her usual crushing mode. Being called down seemed to rattle her I thought.

Think I'm right in saying Pooch would've won if she'd read the sequence right on W1 (the mantle start?) as she got this first time after working out this sequence.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on June 10, 2013, 10:58:01 am

Also, does anyone know how they score the rankings?

Is it something simple like 10 points for a 1st, 8 for second etc?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: a dense loner on June 10, 2013, 11:10:54 am

Quote from: Durbs on June 10, 2013, 10:42:27 am

Think I'm right in saying Pooch would've won if she'd read the sequence right on W1 (the mantle start?) as she got this first time after working out this sequence.

If I'd have been born with a fanny I'd have been a girl

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: mr__j5 on June 10, 2013, 11:14:23 am

The World Cup rankings are this:

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=5&show_calc=1&cup=129 (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=5&show_calc=1&cup=129)

pretty much the same scoring system as alpine skiing. 100, 80, 65, 55, 51, 47, 43, 40 .... down to 1 for 30th.

The lowest result is dropped for total season score, if more than 5 events in the season.

The world ranking is a rolling 12 month total of values, that are similar to those of the world cup, but they are scaled according to the 'quality' of the field that is competing:

http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=5&show_calc=1 (http://egw.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=5&show_calc=1)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on June 10, 2013, 11:21:26 am

Quote from: a dense loner on June 10, 2013, 11:10:54 am

If I'd have been born with a fanny I'd have been a girl

:p

Fair point.

@Mr J5 - good link thanks, is that the old version of the site?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: mr__j5 on June 10, 2013, 11:39:20 am

Quote from: Durbs on June 10, 2013, 11:21:26 am

@Mr J5 - good link thanks, is that the old version of the site?

Yes it is.

It still has information on it that you can't get to on the new crap site.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on June 10, 2013, 11:48:34 am

Quote from: jwi on June 10, 2013, 10:30:02 am

Also feel sorry for Noguchi and Puccio, so close...

Shauna too. If she'd stuck that hold on W4, the finish looked easy, it would have given her gold.

The points table for world ranking (with field factor added) is here:
https://ifsc.egroupware.net/CUWR_rules.php#cuwr-table (https://ifsc.egroupware.net/CUWR_rules.php#cuwr-table)

Which comes from this pdf here (which is linked to beneath the world rankings on the new site)
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_competitions/IFSC_Worldranking.pdf (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_competitions/IFSC_Worldranking.pdf)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: standard on June 10, 2013, 05:12:54 pm

Great split screen for the final. Harrah!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on August 23, 2013, 09:50:57 am

Munich this weekend - anyone fancy calling it?

I'd love Shauna or Pooch to get a gold this season, but it seems to rely on Anna messing up rather than anyone else out-climbing her.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: krymson on August 23, 2013, 10:47:03 am

This season definitely feels a bit like F1 in the Schumacher era.

It's exciting to watch Shauna, Akiyo and Pooch though. feels like they all have potential to get to the top they just need to keep it together, especially Puccio, who seems to have all right pieces but just needs better headgame.

Perhaps a Zen meditation retreat is in order.
(http://www.jeffgothelf.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/karate-kid2.jpg)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Duma on August 23, 2013, 11:12:13 am

Jule.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on August 23, 2013, 01:06:25 pm

Could be interesting. Most of the climbers have been on climbing trips in the long break, so their comp skills might not be on top form. You'd have to bet on Anna, though the others always have a chance. Some of the men have swapped to lead, so people like Sean, Jakob and Jorg might not be bouldering as well as normal. I bet Dmitrii has been training hard as ever though...

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Percy B on August 23, 2013, 07:51:31 pm

I reckon Dmitrii or Rustam might win the mens - its the European championships next weekend and the Russians always aim to peak for the major championships. As for the women - no idea. I'd like to think that Anna might let the others have a bit of a go on the top step of the podium seeing as she's already won the series, but somehow I don't think thats likely....

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on August 25, 2013, 09:12:49 am

Conditions might play their part. It's been hammering down all night and is forecast to rain until at least this evening. 5000 damp people under the roof could make it a bit steamy.

there was talk yesterday about Anna carrying a niggle and Jule fell off her skateboard on Thursday (hence the strapping on her ankle)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Hoseyb on August 25, 2013, 01:37:02 pm

Was it just me or were the mens semi final problems favouring a shorty for once?

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on August 25, 2013, 01:42:07 pm

Dunno, thought the first two looked easier for taller guys.

Lots of mantels though, 3 out of 4 problems for the men - probably explains the unusual finals line up.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: jwi on August 25, 2013, 03:23:05 pm

How tall is tall? The following men reached the final

Thomas “Shorty” Taupr0n ??m
Dimitry Sharafutdinov 1.77m
Rustam Gelmanov 1.68m
Mykhaylo Shalagin 1.80m
Rei Sugimoto 1.70m
Sachi Amma 1.65m

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: jwi on August 25, 2013, 03:39:26 pm

These are some of the people that didn't make it through to the finals

Jan Hojer 1.88
Sean McColl 1.69
Jacob Schubert 1.74
Cédric Lachat 1.72
Jernej Kruder 1.79
Killian Fichhuber 1.74

I don't think height was an explanatory variable for the semis. (But this list reinforce what I usually tell people: "there is only one tall guy who can win a world cup in bouldering.")

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on August 25, 2013, 04:36:24 pm

I only said two problems looked easier for the tall, not impossible for the short. I've often been impressed by Sean or Rustam crushing big reaches that look morpho for others.

But have you got stats on how good they all are at mantels? ;)

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 25, 2013, 05:52:57 pm

I was working today and trying to watch between customers (wet weekend in Torquay = lots of climbers in the Bunker), but that triple pyramid volume problem looked nails! Didn't catch anyone finishing it (did anyone top it?). And the Dome volume in the left... Did anyone even get off the ground?
Not going to have time to review or watch the finals (roasting going on), till much later...

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: jwi on August 25, 2013, 05:58:55 pm

Dimitry started to laugh after falling of the last move.... ;D

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: kelvin on August 25, 2013, 07:02:55 pm

Sorry to lower the tone but that french doris has got a right fit arse.

Title: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Oldmanmatt on August 25, 2013, 07:24:18 pm

With that pseudonym, I'm surprised you didn't say "hot"....

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: kelvin on August 25, 2013, 08:05:15 pm

:2thumbsup: Maybe i could provide her with an ice bath.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on August 25, 2013, 08:47:45 pm

Great final, gutted for Shauna, but pleased for Pooch - can't have two faves win.

Aside from men's #1, great problems too, women's #4 was a fine combo of dyno, technical and power.

Roll on next season!

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on August 25, 2013, 10:40:47 pm

Yeah, great comp. The last problem especially, both men's and women's.

There's always such a fine line between testing climbing skill and testing the ability to do wierd moves (I know others disagree, but I think these are subtly different). The semi's seemed to do more of the latter, and the finals did more of the former. All very subjective I know, but (for me) the semis were ugly and the finals were pretty. I enjoyed them both though.

Shame that's the end this year, but euro's next week should be good.

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: r-man on August 28, 2013, 01:19:54 am

Boulder World Cup 2013 Munich: Review on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73244303)

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: GraemeA on August 28, 2013, 04:43:25 pm

The World Cup might be over but there is the European Champs on this weekend, webcast from Eindhoven.

And to keep you all on the edge of your seats remember that Percy is setting so there will obviously be a PPP

Title: Re: IFSC World Cup 2013
Post by: Durbs on August 28, 2013, 04:58:41 pm

Top interviewee skills btw Graeme ;)

UKBouldering.com

places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: Durbs on March 22, 2013, 09:25:09 am