UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => sponsors => Topic started by: shark on February 26, 2013, 11:10:39 am
-
http://thebmc.co.uk/countdown-to-olympic-decision-over-climbing (http://thebmc.co.uk/countdown-to-olympic-decision-over-climbing)
With just 193 days until the IOC makes its decision on whether climbing will be part of the 2020 Olympics, the BMC and top British climbers are gathered today (26 February) at the Westway Sports Centre in London to demonstrate what could be the next big Olympic sport.
Sport climbing is short-listed for possible inclusion in the 2020 Olympics. It is up against 7 other sports - baseball/softball, squash, karate, wakeboarding, wushu, roller sports and wrestling. The vote as to which sport will make it to the 2020 Olympic Games will take place at the 125th IOC Session in Buenos Aires in September.
At the BMC's media event today at the Westway, Shauna Coxsey, Molly Thompson-Smith and Paraclimbing World Champion Fran Brown will be wowing the media with their climbing skills. After the demos, the sports journalists themselves will be having a go a climbing.
Rob Adie, BMC Competitions Officer, thinks climbing is in with a good chance. He said: "Climbing has all the excitement and adrenaline of the extreme sport that it is. Climbers make big dynamic movements on large overhangs holding on by their fingertips and can take big crowd-wowing falls. It also includes the grace and poise of gymnastics and the tension and endurance of strength sports, making it a fantastic spectacle to watch."
Dave Turnbull, BMC CEO, said: “We’re backing the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) in its bid to see climbing in the 2020 Olympics. The GB Climbing Team is going from strength to strength. Being in the Olympics would give them the recognition and opportunities they deserve.”
The popularity of climbing is on the increase. The BMC’s growing membership is now over 75,000 and the number of public climbing walls in the UK is in excess of 300. Participation figures from Sport England’s Active People Survey indicate that the number of people Mountaineering* once a week has increased from 86,100 (2007-08) to 98,700 (2011-12).
There are three different climbing disciplines contested at World Cup and World Championship events each year: lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing. Only lead climbing, as proposed by the IFSC, is under consideration for the 2020 Olympics.
A key element of gaining support for the IFSC’s Olympic bid is to increase the number of fans on its 2020 Olympics Facebook page www.facebook.com/SportClimbing2020 (http://www.facebook.com/SportClimbing2020). Please show your support.
-
I really don't see what's so good about this.
I asked the BMC why they were supporting it but they didn't reply to me.
I await a torrent of replies telling me why I'm wrong. I'm happy to change my mind if there are some good reasons
-
I'd like to see it in - if only to raise awareness of climbing and potentially inspire the next generation of Ondras and Oddos...
Would be interesting to see if Shauna et al will be too old by then to compete with the as yet unknown yound up-and-comers.
I don't think it'll cause a huge flood of people onto rock - probably boost gym numbers, no bad thing IMHO. The more the merrier.
Still think they should've done bouldering over sport, but meh -it's all good.
-
Seems a bit presumptuous of the BMC to back this bid without properly asking the membership if they actually support it(apologies if they did ask properly and I’ve forgot/ didn’t notice). They are after all supposed to represent members’ interests. It seems to me an important question for the sport. It looks from the outside like the BMC trying to duck a difficult question by presenting support for the bid as a given, as fait accompli.
-
As a BMC member I'm not too keen on this. The inevitable end result if successful will be even more people at the crag and even more queues for routes and the unavoidable increased rate of erosion. :thumbsdown: why is making something more popular always seen as a good thing?
-
I must admit I'm apathetic or slightly swayed against climbing being an Olympic sport.
I'm trying to think of another sport in the Olympics which has all the variables of climbing, i.e. some people are better on pinches/slopers/crimps, and if the crux of the routes revolves around a slopey volume some crimp monsters would struggle. I can only come up with the Marathon where they are potentially running on cobblestones, tarmac, and/or concrete. Personally I'd prefer a level playing field in the Olympics.
-
Seems a bit presumptuous of the BMC to back this bid without properly asking the membership if they actually support it(apologies if they did ask properly and I’ve forgot/ didn’t notice). They are after all supposed to represent members’ interests. It seems to me an important question for the sport. It looks from the outside like the BMC trying to duck a difficult question by presenting support for the bid as a given, as fait accompli.
They did. In 2009. The Area Meetings were consulted and it was then agreed to support it at the National Council.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/national-council-12-sept-meeting-report (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/national-council-12-sept-meeting-report)
-
why is making something more popular always seen as a good thing?
The inexorable drive of capitalism which under-pins society.
I don't recall being asked/canvassed by the BMC if I support the bid.
Anyone have any idea what other national bodies doing to support the IFSC bid?
-
As a BMC member I'm not too keen on this. The inevitable end result if successful will be even more people at the crag climbing wall
-
I must admit I'm apathetic or slightly swayed against climbing being an Olympic sport.
I'm trying to think of another sport in the Olympics which has all the variables of climbing, i.e. some people are better on pinches/slopers/crimps, and if the crux of the routes revolves around a slopey volume some crimp monsters would struggle. I can only come up with the Marathon where they are potentially running on cobblestones, tarmac, and/or concrete. Personally I'd prefer a level playing field in the Olympics.
Good. I take it the majority of the membership supported the bid then. Don't suppose you could point me at the conclusions of their consultation?
-
I'm trying to think of another sport in the Olympics which has all the variables of climbing, i.e. some people are better on pinches/slopers/crimps, and if the crux of the routes revolves around a slopey volume some crimp monsters would struggle.
Isn't this the case with all competition climbing, not just the Olympics?
I don't know - do you take pride in having Shauna in the top 3 at the World Cup? I think it's cool we have a Brit doing so well, having climbing in the Olympics could mean we inspire more world champions. Obviously this will happen with other coutntries too, but I think it's exciting.
I'd be intersted to see what % of wall-rats (like myself) never go outside. From the London area, I suspect it might be quite high.
-
They did. In 2009. The Area Meetings were consulted and it was then agreed to support it at the National Council.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/national-council-12-sept-meeting-report (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/national-council-12-sept-meeting-report)
That would likely have got a wider response if done by postal survey to members (supplement to Summit perhaps).
Increased usage at walls will inevitably lead to an increase in the number of people at crags.
-
I think it's cool that comps are growing and there's the possibility of comp climbing getting in the olympics. You lot are getting old.
-
I would say, dont worry, it'll blow over. From the experience of watching my first love xc mountain biking join in as an olympic sport, I dont think it will make a lot of difference either way. The only benefit is that it gives you a sport thats interesting to watch on the telly when the olympics is on.
-
Its interesting what works and what doesnt on TV... Which sadly seems to be how the sports are chosen..
BMX is being axed as its too random (the faves get wiped out too much), the MTB XC was pretty dull to watch I thought... so I wouldnt expect that to last too much longer. I wonder how lead climbing would end up working on TV...?
Then again, things like the snowcross (the boarding equivalent of BMX) are really good...
-
I think it's cool that comps are growing and there's the possibility of comp climbing getting in the olympics. You lot are getting old.
Yes but why ?
ie what are the reasons or supposed benefits ?
-
I can't remember a proper debate and vote back in 2009. Assuming this is down to my shit memory and that this is what people really want then fair enough. If the debate's been had and my side lost then that's the end of that. I'm sure I'll enjoy watching it should the bid succeed, I just hope I'm wrong on all the other shit that it could lead to.
-
I would say, dont worry, it'll blow over. From the experience of watching my first love xc mountain biking join in as an olympic sport, I dont think it will make a lot of difference either way. The only benefit is that it gives you a sport thats interesting to watch on the telly when the olympics is on.
I anticipate that the only major changes will be an increased general interest in indoor climbing and that the funding of the GB teams should rise considerably from both commercial sponsorship and the Sports Council. I can't see any downside.
-
I dare say you won’t have to see the downsides when they happen either as they’ll be easily dismissed as the unavoidable consequences of the natural expansion of the sport. There will be no obvious cause and effect.
-
Yes but why ?
ie what are the reasons or supposed benefits ?
I get to watch climbing on tv when I'm bored.
More people get to climb/train full time. If they love climbing as much as I do this will be AMAZING for them and they will be very happy.
When I moan at climbing wall owners about making better training facilities they might be more likely to listen.
What's the reasons for people's negativity? Busier crags/erosion/broken holds/litter etc?
-
I can't remember a proper debate and vote back in 2009.
Really? It came up at every area meet for about a year, with endless tedious discussion about whether the BMC are even in a position to back the bid, as they are a 'representational body' not a 'governing body' as required by the IFSC or some such.
Assuming this is down to my shit memory and that this is what people really want then fair enough.
I don't remember anyone really managing to articulate much opposition (partly due to boredom, see above), rather a vague sense that it wasn't what they felt climbing was really all about. Which it may not be, but isn't a very strong argument against the many folk who are mad keen on the idea.
I just hope I'm wrong on all the other shit that it could lead to.
Which is increased popularity, especially of indoor/ sport vs 'real' climbing? I agree to an extent, but I'm not convinced you can social engineer such things. Olympic acceptance, if it happens, will just be another consequence of the steady increase in popularity already present.
-
I dare say you won’t have to see the downsides when they happen either as they’ll be easily dismissed as the unavoidable consequences of the natural expansion of the sport. There will be no obvious cause and effect.
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQXDQEX_fO_lRWu4ckRKNZTosNe3Jk5HM-OLJuflrgdgiriAT6v)
;)
-
JB - Sounds like I erased the memory. That or it was presented as endless vague waffle instead of one yes/no vote.
Like I said before, I think it's a bad idea, but if this is what climbers want then so be it. I'm not going to be boycotting anything, or giving people evils down the wall. I don't deny it will be great for a select few climbers and I say good luck to them, I'll be rooting for them with everyone else. Would that I were good/young enough to be among them. But I still think it's a bad idea. Not for any earth shatteringly powerful reasons that will silence the yay sayers. Just for the same old boring reasons you outlined already - more climbers, mostly indoors but with inevitable leakage onto the crags = more parking/access problems, faster erosion and polish, more frequent chipping, more tedious training bores, more happy-face-gits in team GB t-shirts at the wall/crag (but only if it’s a nice very sunny day). You know, old miserable hermit stuff.
-
If I was a wrestler, I'd be a bit miffed about my sport (in the Olympics since the dinosaurs etc) being shelved in favour of some anorexic midgets from France and Spain inching their way up a comp wall.
-
Well rope climbing was an original olympic sport back in the 1800s, so it might just be coming back, albeit in a slightly more modern context.
-
Well rope climbing was an original olympic sport back in the 1800s, so it might just be coming back, albeit in a slightly more modern context.
http://thebmc.co.uk/bmc-welcomes-2012-olympics (http://thebmc.co.uk/bmc-welcomes-2012-olympics)
"Few people will be aware that Mountaineering was in fact one of the original 10 or so sports identified when the Olympics were re-started in 1896. Research carried out by current UIAA President Alan Blackshaw has established that there was to be an Olympic Medal for Alpinism awarded every 4 years on the basis of advice from the Alpine Clubs. "
-
As a BMC member I'm not too keen on this. The inevitable end result if successful will be even more people at the crag climbing wall
Only to a certain degree Shark, a lot of bods will also be brought into the wider "sport" from the indoors, spilling about all over the place. I used to enjoy solitude in climbing, which is getting harder to acheive (although I do climb in Lancashire...)
If I recall correctly at the NW BMC meeting most people were against the bid, or at least weren't enthusiastic of it..
-
Come on, it's pretty easy to achieve solitude climbing in Lancashire! ;)
-
Come on, it's pretty easy to achieve solitude climbing in Lancashire! ;)
As well you know ;)
Long may it remain!
-
Ah, the feeling of driving to Brownstones and seeing another car parked there. Are they climbing? Could there actually be someone else to climb with? No, they're just picking their child up from the stables.
-
Ah, the feeling of driving to Brownstones and seeing another car parked there. Are they climbing? Could there actually be someone else to climb with? No, they're just picking their child up from the stables, dogging, sniffing aerosols.
-
JB - Sounds like I erased the memory. That or it was presented as endless vague waffle instead of one yes/no vote.
Like I said before, I think it's a bad idea, but if this is what climbers want then so be it. I'm not going to be boycotting anything, or giving people evils down the wall. I don't deny it will be great for a select few climbers and I say good luck to them, I'll be rooting for them with everyone else. Would that I were good/young enough to be among them. But I still think it's a bad idea. Not for any earth shatteringly powerful reasons that will silence the yay sayers. Just for the same old boring reasons you outlined already - more climbers, mostly indoors but with inevitable leakage onto the crags = more parking/access problems, faster erosion and polish, more frequent chipping, more tedious training bores, more happy-face-gits in team GB t-shirts at the wall/crag (but only if it’s a nice very sunny day). You know, old miserable hermit stuff.
+1.
Bad idea, will benefit a few, some people will make a heap of cash off it and everyone else will pick up the pieces, quite literally in some cases.
-
Bad idea, will benefit a few, some people will make a heap of cash off it and everyone else will pick up the pieces, quite literally in some cases.
:slap: Thats the International Olympic Committee's standard business model though isn't it?
-
Well rope climbing was an original olympic sport back in the 1800s, so it might just be coming back, albeit in a slightly more modern context.
Aid climbing should be in the olympics, imagine Andy Kirkpatrick collecting an olympic gold medal!
wtf is Wushu?
-
Loads of people on ukwushu.com asking wtf is bouldering ?
-
It exists!: http://ukwushu.com/ (http://ukwushu.com/)
Scary, I wouldn't want to turn down their bid :boxing:
-
Isn't it just eating bits of raw fish?
-
I find it difficult to find much enthusiasm either way. I still don't understand the logic of choosing lead climbing over bouldering. The opinion of non-climbers that I've forced to watch IFSC events is that it's fairly dull whereas bouldering seems to immediately capture the attention. Personally I was surprised at how much I enjoyed last season's bouldering events and how well it works as a spectator sport, lead didn't work for me.
Mind you I'm glad they didn't choose bouldering.
-
I agree fried. Lead climbing comps are dull as fuck unless you're watching your mates. Bouldering comps, I can see the attraction for spectators, a lot more exciting/immediate.
Not sure where I stand on the Olympics thing. Don't think it'll make as a big difference as some fear re the number of people out on the crags and the lack of knowledge re what is and isn't acceptable behaviour. I think that ship already sailed anyway.
-
I'll reply first with my BMC hat on:
This was at area meetings, sometimes on several occasions. Votes went in favour, despite some reservations. If you want to get pedantic I can drag out the agendas for say the Peak Area meets where this was debated and voted on.
What do I think personally?
I think it'll make very little difference out on the crag. Walls will get busier, and there may be more "try hards" and other annoyances, but I doubt much else will be noticeable. The people who will notice the difference will be the Mina's, Shauna's and Molly's of this world. They'll be able to have a sport which is properly funded at the elite level. Now, should I begrudge them that because I'm a grumpy old man?
-
I must admit I'm torn between ambivalence and indifference on this too.
I guess having lead climbing and bouldering as two events under the umbrella of "climbing" would be out of the question? Not like there will be too many other things like several categories like there would be in wushu, wrestling or "roller sports" (and maybe the others?)?
-
I'll reply first with my BMC hat on:
This was at area meetings, sometimes on several occasions. Votes went in favour, despite some reservations. If you want to get pedantic I can drag out the agendas for say the Peak Area meets where this was debated and voted on.
Out of the now 10's of thousands of members what percentage attend area meets?
I've never made it out to the Peak ones (I'm not adverse to going, but I have to balance going climbing against other stuff). There are regular mail outs to members every few months and this new-fangled internet thing thing which I would hazard a guess a greater proportion of members could/would use than attend meetings these alternatives could (or should) have been used. Could have rolled it into the last president election vote perhaps?
Moons must be aligning...
I must admit I'm torn between ambivalence and indifference on this too.
:agree: I'm not about to start watching the olympics if climbing does make it in.
-
I think it should go in, mainly for the potential comedy effect of who they will get in on the BBC as the expert pundit during the olympics.
-
Out of the now 10's of thousands of members what percentage attend area meets?
I've never made it out to the Peak ones (I'm not adverse to going, but I have to balance going climbing against other stuff). There are regular mail outs to members every few months and this new-fangled internet thing thing which I would hazard a guess a greater proportion of members could/would use than attend meetings these alternatives could (or should) have been used. Could have rolled it into the last president election vote perhaps?
Maybe there should have been a vote to decide how to decide? If seems like there was an open forum discussion before the voting, which seems a better method than a postal ballot.
I daresay that if it was a postal ballot there would have possibly been an ever greater majority in favour, as those who usually attend these meetings are those interested in issues relating to outdoor climbing rather than "wallrats". But who is to know? Anyway, a method of canvassing opinion was at least chosen, and the votes swung in favour, so no amount of complaining is going to change that now.
And if I could vote, I would chose Andy Kirkpatrick and Johnny Dawes as expert pundits. Anything better than Ed Leigh who blagged his way into the pundit seat for the BMX and MTB in 2012.
-
Maybe there should have been a vote to decide how to decide?
I like that idea, it could be repeated ad infinitum. :clown:
-
And if I could vote, I would chose Andy Kirkpatrick and Johnny Dawes as expert pundits. Anything better than Ed Leigh who blagged his way into the pundit seat for the BMX and MTB in 2012.
If you could get Ed Leigh kicked off Ski Sunday at the same time it'd be much appreciated.
-
If you could get Ed Leigh kicked at the same time it'd be much appreciated.
Fixed. He's a twat. Not that great on a board either. Just blagged his way into these things as Graeme Bell's mate.
-
And if I could vote, I would chose Andy Kirkpatrick and Johnny Dawes as expert pundits.
Good call. The gold standard for cynical old fart TV sport punditry is Günter Netzer ("considered one of the best midfielders of all time" by wikipedia), who appears on the German equivalent of Match Of The Day grumbling cynically about the crapness of the lazy pampered Kids These Days. He is the only reason I ever watch TV sports over here.
-
I still don't understand the logic of choosing lead climbing over bouldering.
The IOC told the IFSC that one discipline should be put forward so the National Federations were asked their opinions. Lead climbing won this vote over bouldering. But the margin was narrow. I don't know the breakdown though.
The BMC debate was started because I abstained at the IFSC Plenary Assembly in 2008 during the vote on supporting the drive to get into the Games. I did this on instruction from the BMC. It was pointed out that membership of the IFSC meant that you agreed to support getting into the Games so I came back and pointed out to the BMC that they needed to get of the fence otherwise it was theoretically possible that the BMC would be thrown out of the IFSC. The BMC Area meeting debate commenced.
-
So technically it's all your fault.
-
So technically it's all your fault.
Yes, I will burn in hell, forced to sit through never ending BMC Committee meetings chaired by the holographic projection of Ken (the real Ken will of course be in heaven) reminding me that comeptition climbers are barbarians and the Nose (Dinas Mot) will be bolted within a few years. And yes he did say this in 1993, it's in the transcript of a debate at the Alpine Club.
Actually you started it all by being the first ever champion of the Foundry Bouldering League Elite class. I've got the photo to prove it, Mike Lea won the Intermediate class and Airlie the Punter class - a bit of snadbagging by the latter two I think.
-
:guilty:
Yeah I remember Airlie justifying being in the punter category by the likes of Mike Lea being intermediate. Cheating cunts. Meant I only had Parry, Vickers, Patta, Welford etc to beat. Unfair really.
-
Clearly a weak field that year then.
-
I'm attempting not to be a grumpy old man about all this but I can't see anything positive (for me) about climbing becoming an Olympic sport. Trying to be objective, what happened when other minor sports joined the Olympics? Huge rise in participants? No discernible change? Certain website owners seem to be getting excited, they must think it will increase numbers and be good for business
Assuming an increase in climbing wall use and some over-spill outside, the knock-on effects are likely to accelerate current trends: more pressure to retro inland Limestone (and anything else not nailed-down as trad.) and the already depressing deterioration of popular Grit venues. I don’t imagine it will have much influence on my preferred activity of sea-cliff ledge shuffling.
This may have been discussed ad nauseum at local meetings but I don’t feel there has been any real consultation by the BMC. Perhaps that’s deliberate? This isn’t 1982 and other forms of consultation should have been used. I never know what my local meeting will be discussing (example (http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=2737)) and I’m not going to attend if the agenda is not available in advance: I might have to sit through a two hour of discussion on brush clearing at Harrison’s and I get quite enough of that kind of thing at work already.
-
This may have been discussed ad nauseum at local meetings but I don’t feel there has been any real consultation by the BMC. Perhaps that’s deliberate? This isn’t 1982 and other forms of consultation should have been used. I never know what my local meeting will be discussing (example (http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=2737)) and I’m not going to attend if the agenda is not available in advance: I might have to sit through a two hour of discussion on brush clearing at Harrison’s and I get quite enough of that kind of thing at work already.
Chris has the solution to that (see posts above)
I however think its worth bearing in mind for future issues because the area meets are not an effective means of canvassing members opinions.
On that note, does the BMC supporting the bid mean that they will be increasing funding for team members above what is already used? Thats certainly not why I'm a member of the BMC and it would be a shame if the other areas they do great work in such as conservation and working to maintain access suffer as a consequence.
-
Surely the idea would be that if climbing was included then it would be easier for the team to get funding from elsewhere rather than relying on increased funding from the BMC?
I know fuck all about this but that's the logical assumption. :shrug:
-
You'd hope so, in which case the need/purpose for BMC support/endorsement is?
NB - Genuinely don't know and am interested, not trying to be an awkward cunt.
-
Re-read Graeme's post above.
Much as I agree that in 2013 there should be other ways of expressing an opinion to your representative organisation, area meets debates really can't be beaten for ensuring folk actually understand the nuances of what's being discussed.
-
Yeah, be nice of they could get a slice of the lottery funding, or whatever the other sports tap into, and not rely on my subscriptions.
-
I am guessing that as the bmc has the objective of promoting and representing climbing, it thought that olympic status would be a good for growth in participation. Higher participation would then lead to greater influence of the governing body and more money to spend on advocacy.
Personally I am all for it. It will open up opportunities for people to make a living off climbing, train hard, work on progression and should lead to better coaching/training all round. Anyway, climbing cant be any more boring than the 10,000m for TV spectators, especially oif it is well edited.
-
I did read it.
It raised a few questions in my mind, having been unable to attend the area meeting as to how the BMC support of climbing in the Olympics was the posed...
"Do you want the BMC to stay in the IFSC ?"
or
"Do you want the BMC to support the Olympics bid ?"
or the combined
"Unless the BMC supports the IFSC bid for climbing to be in the Olympics the BMC will no longer be able to be a member of the IFSC and the implications of this are...X, Y and Z."
What are the implications of the BMC not being a member of the IFSC? Would it mean there is no possibility for reciprocal rights cards (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/get-alpine-hut-discounts-with-a-reciprocal-rights-card)? (unlikely I expect as IFSC is about sports climbing)
I've been unable to find the minutes of past meetings on the community site (http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=2794).
-
"Unless the BMC supports the IFSC bid for climbing to be in the Olympics the BMC will no longer be able to be a member of the IFSC and the implications of this are...X, Y and Z."
A bit like that, with a lot more where your ellipses are. IE, it was done properly, and explained fully, plus the reason why it has arisen, etc etc. It bored the arse off me on several occasions.
I'm no great advocate for climbing being in the Olympics, but I do find this thread a bit depressing in its inevitability. Folk who couldn't be arsed engaging with a fairly tedious, technical discussion now moaning they weren't consulted properly, largely on the grounds that they don't like the outcome, but are yet unable to produce a decent counter argument. Such grumblings were addressed in the debate - do folk really think it's a tenable position for a representative organisation to refuse to promote its sport? It's a dog-in-the-manger position that doesn't stand up to scrutiny.
-
I've been unable to find the minutes of past meetings on the community site.
Really, I thought you were shit hot at this stuff? Unable to find the meeting or the minutes?
To find meetings, go to 'Your local area', hit 'previous events' then, optional but recommended 'show all'. Scroll down - it goes back to Sept '08. Olympics were on the agenda from Sept 09. Not all meetings have agendas and minutes, but the more recent ones all have both. It's not perfect, but I guess that's what you get for employing volunteers.
-
I'm no great advocate for climbing being in the Olympics, but I do find this thread a bit depressing in its inevitability. Folk who couldn't be arsed engaging with a fairly tedious, technical discussion now moaning they weren't consulted properly, largely on the grounds that they don't like the outcome, but are yet unable to produce a decent counter argument.
The other strange this is that it doesn't really seem that there's much chance of climbing actually making it to the olympics anyway:
Matt Cutler @mattycutler
William Hill odds on sport to be added to Olympics from 2020: Squash (6/4), Baseball/Softball (7/4), Karate (5/1), Wakeboarding (8/1)...
(Feb 12)
-
I've been unable to find the minutes of past meetings on the community site.
Really, I thought you were shit hot at this stuff? Unable to find the meeting or the minutes?
To find meetings, go to 'Your local area', hit 'previous events' then, optional but recommended 'show all'. Scroll down - it goes back to Sept '08. Olympics were on the agenda from Sept 09. Not all meetings have agendas and minutes, but the more recent ones all have both. It's not perfect, but I guess that's what you get for employing volunteers.
Well I can assure you I'm not lying , but when I go to the community page (http://community.thebmc.co.uk/) there is a box that says "Your local area is : National" with an arrow that I would expect to reveal a menu to select a specific area. Clicking on that arrow does not reveal the expected list, nor does a site search of the domain using Google reveal anything obvious. I'm not logged into the site as I've never had a need to register at the BMC's website yet (that may change imminently!).
This is using Opera-12.14_p1738 (so pretty up-to-date browser) with Ghostery add-on (which blocks tracking by sites, I block most things). Initially I thought it might be some aspect of Ghostery blocking something, but it reports that nothing is being blocked for that domain.
I'll try again when at home later where I've a different browser installed to try it, thanks for the pointers. And its great that volunteers put the effort into providing agendas and minutes, thanks if any are reading.
I'm no great advocate for climbing being in the Olympics, but I do find this thread a bit depressing in its inevitability. Folk who couldn't be arsed engaging with a fairly tedious, technical discussion now moaning they weren't consulted properly, largely on the grounds that they don't like the outcome, but are yet unable to produce a decent counter argument. Such grumblings were addressed in the debate - do folk really think it's a tenable position for a representative organisation to refuse to promote its sport? It's a dog-in-the-manger position that doesn't stand up to scrutiny.
Bar my minor concern of what my membership is being spent on I'm not overly bothered that I didn't have a chance to put my vote forward, whats happened has happened and I realise that spouting shit on a forum isn't going to change that, but...
I however think its worth bearing in mind for future issues because the area meets are not an effective means of canvassing members opinions.
-
Area meets might not be an effective means of canvassing a wide range of members opinions but they are an effective way of canvassing opinions of those who care enough to get involved (disclaimer: I rarely, if ever attend area meetings)
-
The other strange this is that it doesn't really seem that there's much chance of climbing actually making it to the olympics anyway:
Matt Cutler @mattycutler
William Hill odds on sport to be added to Olympics from 2020: Squash (6/4), Baseball/Softball (7/4), Karate (5/1), Wakeboarding (8/1)...
(Feb 12)
I wonder what information forms the basis of these odds.
-
Browser issue, BMC site works as expected under Firefox.
-
The other strange this is that it doesn't really seem that there's much chance of climbing actually making it to the olympics anyway:
Matt Cutler @mattycutler
William Hill odds on sport to be added to Olympics from 2020: Squash (6/4), Baseball/Softball (7/4), Karate (5/1), Wakeboarding (8/1)...
(Feb 12)
I wonder what information forms the basis of these odds.
TommyZtones our UKB man on the inside at William Hill.....
-
Shauna Coxsey has been interviewed by radio 5 live about this.
It will be aired next week. Don't know when yet.
-
Shauna Coxsey has been interviewed by radio 5 live about this.
It will be aired next week. Don't know when yet.
BMC comps twitter reports this interview will be in breakfast show (0600 - 0900) on Wednesday 13th March.
-
Shauna Coxsey has been interviewed by radio 5 live about this
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0167lff (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0167lff)
-
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/dame-kelly-holmes-backs-climbings-2020-olympic-dream (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/dame-kelly-holmes-backs-climbings-2020-olympic-dream)
(http://i.imgur.com/tMrzLzZ.jpg)
As decision day draws nearer for sports being considered for the 2020 Olympics, double Olympic champion Dame Kelly Holmes has given her support to climbing’s campaign.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the force behind the bid to get climbing into the Olympics and the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is backing the bid.
Only one of the eight sports under consideration will be chosen for the Olympic programme. Following presentations from each sport on 29 May, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) Executive Board will recommend which sports should go through to the final IOC vote in September. It is expected the shortlist will be reduced from eight to three on 29 May.
Dame Kelly Holmes, double gold medallist at the 2004 Athens Olympics said: “The proposed triathlon format for Sport Climbing’s bid for the 2020 Olympic Games sounds like a great concept. I know climbing is very popular with young people and the format fits perfectly with the Olympic motto of Faster, Higher and Stronger.
“I know the case for inclusion in the Olympic Games is becoming tougher all the time, it could go down to the wire when the final choice is made by the IOC in September. Hopefully the general public will see that Sport Climbing has a big future ahead.”
Dame Kelly is no stranger to climbing. Having climbed with the BMC at Stanage in the Peak District, she then went on to complete a five-day course at Plas y Brenin in North Wales. Dame Kelly has also attended a reception for the GB Climbing Team at Westminster.
The BMC hopes Dame Kelly's gold medal success rubs off on climbing’s 2020 bid! You can show your support for the bid on the IFSC’s Facebook page: www.facebook.com/SportClimbing2020 (http://www.facebook.com/SportClimbing2020)
Want to climb in the 2020 Olympics? Anyone who thinks they’ve got what it takes to become an Olympic climbing champion should check out the pathway to getting on the GB Climbing Team (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/want-to-climb-in-the-olympics-in-2020) in time for possible selection for 2020. GB Climbing Team members are currently putting in some impressive international performances, with 15 year old Molly Thomspon-Smith showing great potential for Olympic success in 2020, should climbing reach the Olympics.
-
So what do we realistically reckon is climbing's chances of getting shortlisted anyway; I think it depends a lot on who is hosting?
baseball/softball - dull, but popular to watch especially with US and a few other places.
karate - a bit too much like other matial arts in already?
roller sports - be good to get in, dedending on format (except rolleblading which is a bit lame tbh)
sports climbing - ? potential crowd pleaser - if Madrid host it might swing chances?
squash - been in an out before?
wakeboard - Ok to watch for a while but more fun on the Wii than watching.
wrestling - in and out before?
wushu - no idea, some sort of martial art - see karate comment?
-
So what do we realistically reckon is climbing's chances of getting shortlisted anyway; I think it depends a lot on who is hosting?
As the host is chosen during the same meeting as the new sport the host will have very little bearing.
But don't forget Sachi Amma is current Lead World Cup Champion and Akiyo Noguchi is currently no 2 in the world for bouldering and won the World Cup in 2010.
-
Squash has never been in but has been on the short list twice
-
I knew it had been in something. Should have a two strikes and out policy!
-
Squash is rubbish as a spectator sport, you can't see where the ball is cos they hit it so hard. Remeber seeing a bit on tv years ago and switching it off pretty quickly.
-
Article about the coming decision
http://www.washingtonpost.com/sports/olympics/wrestling-ioc-presidential-race-and-2020-bids-all-on-show-at-st-petersburg-meetings/2013/05/27/1aa4a77a-c69c-11e2-9cd9-3b9a22a4000a_story.html (http://www.washingtonpost.com/sports/olympics/wrestling-ioc-presidential-race-and-2020-bids-all-on-show-at-st-petersburg-meetings/2013/05/27/1aa4a77a-c69c-11e2-9cd9-3b9a22a4000a_story.html)
The sports will make closed-door presentations to the IOC board, during which the delegations will hope to impress the judges with home-made cakes. Roller sports are rumoured to be deploying naked ladies (with tasty buns).
Squash and karate have been cited as other leading contenders, but everyone knows the reason they have been kept out of the Olympics for over a century is because they are flippin boring
Wrestling, a sport with a tradition dating back to the ancient Olympics, has gone through a major upheaval since it was dropped by the IOC in February....
“The federation definitely understood the reasons why they were ousted and they reacted well,” Rogge said. "They have been dieting and eating lots of salads. They know we are taking this very seriously, and we refuse to allow athletes with muffin tops into the olympics."
-
This may have been discussed ad nauseum at local meetings but I don’t feel there has been any real consultation by the BMC. Perhaps that’s deliberate? This isn’t 1982 and other forms of consultation should have been used. I never know what my local meeting will be discussing (example (http://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=2737)) and I’m not going to attend if the agenda is not available in advance: I might have to sit through a two hour of discussion on brush clearing at Harrison’s and I get quite enough of that kind of thing at work already.
Duncan, your next area meeting is June the 5th, at the Alpine Club. Can I assume you're going to turn up?
Area meetings are ineffective if people can't be bothered. Just like ever other democracy, they require participation.
There will definitely NOT be a two hour discussion about brush clearing at Harrison's. Why you would assume that I don't know.
-
Not in. For one, I am pleased.
-
http://www.cbc.ca/sports/story/2013/05/29/sp-ioc-meetings-russia-sochi-2020-olympics-wrestling-sports.html (http://www.cbc.ca/sports/story/2013/05/29/sp-ioc-meetings-russia-sochi-2020-olympics-wrestling-sports.html)
As long as the world cups continue, I'm not too fussed about climbing's inclusion in a quadrennial event. Though I would have preferred to watch it instead of yawning at squash, wrestling or baseball. And it's a shame for the climbers that most of them don't earn much money.
On a different topic, I don't really understand why Basketball, Football or Tennis are still there. The Olympics should be the pinnacle of sporting achievement, and for these sports it's a just pleasant sideshow.
-
+2 (did I get that right?)
-
Not in. For one, I am pleased.
:agree:
-
Don't mind that climbing isn't in but Baseball?! BASEBALL?! Apart from Japan is it actually played anywhere but the USA?
Oh yeah, it is but it's called rounders and is a kid's game that you stop playing once you're old enough to learn to bat and bowl properly or you play for a laugh when you're pissed.
-
Not in. For one, I am pleased.
:agree: blimey i agree with gcw things are going downhill...
-
:icon_beerchug:
-
Don't mind that climbing isn't in but Baseball?! BASEBALL?! Apart from Japan is it actually played anywhere but the USA?
Big all over the far east and south america i think. Needs beer to be made interesting.
Still indifferent on climbing though.
-
Not in. For one, I am pleased.
:agree:
And another.....+1
-
Mixed feelings, here.
Seems all those sub 30 yo, of my acquaintance are disappointed. Those older, pleased.
A few months ago, I'd have been firmly in the pleased camp.
Now.......?
-
:dance1:
-
Personally I am disappointed.
Being an Olympic sport would have injected a fair bit of money into the sport and allowed the better competitors to concentrate on training and progressing standards. It don't think it would have had any effect on the how the majority enjoy their sport but it would have been a massive benefit to those who chose to climb full time and were good, they could have made a living out of what they love doing rather than scratching around skint.
Who would turn down the opportunity to make a living from climbing if they had the chance? Now the opportunity to do this is much less than it could have been (for some).
-
+73
-
Just been re-reading this in context of the BMC Peak Area meeting last week. Neil as chair made the valid point that despite broad support in area meets and national council when this was discussed a few years back, that if we were looking for support for a new bid now, things might even go the other way. Johnny Brown is wrong (for once!) in his recall of the Peak Area meet as someone turned up almost every time it was discussed to say why the Olympic support was wrong (might have been Ivan, if it wasnt him, he was for it and another guy from one of the big clubs was against). Personally I'm surprised that more like Bonjoy hadn't deleted the pain and tedium from their memory banks; I remembered as much as I did as it became interesting black comedy with beer goggles.
-
Personally I am disappointed.
Being an Olympic sport would have injected a fair bit of money into the sport and allowed the better competitors to concentrate on training and progressing standards. It don't think it would have had any effect on the how the majority enjoy their sport but it would have been a massive benefit to those who chose to climb full time and were good, they could have made a living out of what they love doing rather than scratching around skint.
Who would turn down the opportunity to make a living from climbing if they had the chance? Now the opportunity to do this is much less than it could have been (for some).
I am sorry but who cares about injecting money into the sport? Like all sports with limited resources you do not want it popular or publicizing. Climbing, Surfing and other sports that are not crowd friendly should be as far away from the public eye as it can be. That may come across as extremely selfish but the only people who would benefit are the companies and one or two individuals, fuck that
-
(http://www.surfcamppeaksnswells.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/The-crowd-at-the-Nike-US-Open-of-Surfing.jpeg)
Climbing, Surfing and other sports that are not crowd friendly
::)
It's a double edged sword no doubt. However, without the individuals or the companies you refer to, you would be climbing in home made shoes and kit. My assumption is.. that you don't climb in plimsolls, your chalk bag isn't homemade, you didn't machine your own gear and your chalk wasn't quarried by your own fair hand. ie. You've already helped to benefit the companies and individuals you refer to.
Don't see why you would begrudge anyone willing to form a company to manufacture the goods you benefit from, especially if that company trades ethically and feeds back into the climbing community.
-
double edged sword you are right but the products you refer to are part of capitalism where people buy things that will benefit them and thus putting money into the company that way. If it wasn't worth buying then people wouldn't buy it - I have no problem with people investing money and time on good ideas but any sort of traffic or public interest is bad for the punters
-
Does any of this matter anymore?
It was a shit idea, and was rightly shot down as piss poor.
More important, let's have a UKB Bristol chapter piss up. Anyone else, or just me?
-
double edged sword you are right but the products you refer to are part of capitalism where people buy things that will benefit them and thus putting money into the company that way. If it wasn't worth buying then people wouldn't buy it - I have no problem with people investing money and time on good ideas but any sort of traffic or public interest is bad for the punters
Are you still swinging that self contradictory libertarian sword or not? Reason I can't tell is probably cos you are, or aren't.
-
left on war, right on money