UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: csl on January 06, 2013, 03:50:57 pm
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First week of 2013 and since the last 3/4 months have been lacking climbing I better get off to a good start.
Goals for Jan
Start climbing regularly again
at least twice a week at Kelsey Kerridge
one fingerboard session a week.
Enter Bouldering competition 2/2/2013 and come top 10.
Mon- Biscuit factory, as per last weeks post.
Tue- Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Speedwork 800 w 400 recovery @ 3.35km pace.
Sunday - Kelsey Kerridge - Bit of mileage - repeating stuff, working new things around V6ish. Core and stretching.
Ok week, getting over last weeks big running mileage so not much activity for most of it. Got my psyche back for climbing again though.
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STG: 7A and E2 on grit this season, maintain sport fitness over winter
MTG: 7b, E3 & 7B in 2013
M- Nothing. First alcoholic drink in 25 months in evening. :pissed:
T- Feeling crap. 6 mile muddy walk through familes-packed south-eastern countryside.
W- Notts Depot. New circuit board PB. 3 new yellow problems.
T- Swiss ball core. Felt hard.
F- Rest.
S- Curbar. First time on rock in a month. :-[ Warmed up on Trackside boulder- Trackside itself doesn't seem a million miles away. Worked Gorilla Warfare for most of session. Had it all wired by the end but didn't have the juice left to link it. Determined to come back next day and put it to bed.
S- Woke up sore and with the distinct feeling that I would not be able to do GW. Damp-looking outside too. Rest.
Excellent session on Saturday- all the indoor climbing I've been doing this winter is paying off as I'm definitely stronger than ever on rock now and, despite not having tied on since October, my endurance is better than ever too. If it's dry next weekend GW will definitely be going down...
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STG: falling practice
MTG: Welsh E2 & Dolomite (or other alpine) VI in summer
LTG: Big Alpine rock routes: S. face Marmolada, W. face Totenkirchl
M: wine, whisky
T: Alpine approach training: 30 mins step-ups w/heavy rucksack. Worked surprisingly well as a hangover cure.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Arrived late & climbing as a three, so only a few routes done (5b 5b 6a+ 6b) but also half a dozen practice falls (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21359.0.html), which will probably do more good in the long run than another half a dozen routes.
T:
F: moving boxes & furniture into new apartment. Removal Man Fitness, Andy K style. (https://www.google.com/search?oq=andy+kirkpatrick+binamn+fitness&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=andy+kirkpatrick+binamn+fitness)
S: ditto
S: ditto. Hoped to get a quick visit to the bouldering wall in in the evening but was knackered. Beers instead.
Plan for next week. Get to the wall more than once; shift fewer boxes. Possibly an introductory kettlebell course on Sunday, depending on family commitments.
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M- Nothing. First alcoholic drink in about 10 mins in morning.
T- Feeling crap. 3 mile muddy walk through familes-packed south-eastern countryside. Stop in pub.
W-F - Nothing
S - Indoor 3h. No repeaters, I'll start back next week. Fairly laid back session + back stretches
S - Nothing
Weight 75.6kg
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Back to Power Club after a long absence :strongbench:
STG: Climb as much as possible in the next four weeks. Try and get to Portland.
MTG: Climb as well as possible in Siurana in Feb
LTG: 7b, 7B and E4 in 2013
M & T: Nowt
W: Wall for bouldering mileage. 1st time climbing since April 2012. Couple of dozen problems up to V4
T: Pullups @ home
F: Nowt
S: Bike ride and Wall. Did the problems I couldn't do on W.
S: Wall, teaching a novice. Used the self belay thing for the first time. five routes to 6b+ and some bouldering. Did a V5 I couldn't do on W and Sat.
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m
T - Max hangs, recorded a PB +9.7kg (I'm also +2kg)
w
T - Max hangs & campussing, PBs on both (hangs +10.2kg). Haven't tried campussing for ages, amazed to perform so well.
f
S - bit of pottering above Millstone then max hangs - another PB (still 10.2kg but for longer)
s
Bit of an elbow tweak (golfers I think) so making sure I rest up and keep things simple.
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STG / LTG: Font 7b
Bit of a weird week with New Year's in the middle. Was recovering from getting the Noro-bastard over Xmas but it's been alright.
M - gym on lunch, kettlebell experimentation and some core stuff. Curry and beers in evening with Mrs Tone.
T - oh my god I hurt. Roast dinner with Mrs Tone's family in the afternoon by way of recovery.
W - gym on lunch, tweaked kettlebell routine and then Depot in the evening.
T - down to London in eve, room service burger, Hip Hop Karaoke and numerous beers.
F - working in London, train back, out for dinner in the eve and then a few beers.
S - lie-in, the a day out on grit! Good session at Bat Buttress at Brimham. Nowt hard but good to tick some new stuff.
S - lie-in, Depot session working a few comp problems.
Not a bad start to the year. Feel more psyched now that I'm mixing in the gym sessions, even if this week I undid all my good work by boozing a bit too much.
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Thanks csl
11.9-11.12 (last week 11.9-10) seasonal trend reversal starts now. No alcohol so far this year
Mon.
Tues. Noon. Weighted deadhangs and assisted one armers
Weds. PM Works with the kids. Tried campusing but busted. Bouldered.
Thurs.
Fri. eatswood with DD, Kris and Zips. Nice day. Good fun. No progress. Late Eve. Nocturnal weighted ddeahangs and one arm pull up sess (same as tues)
Sat. AM 5K Park Run with Poppy.
Sun. PM. eatswood with DD. Tardy start. Claggy but traverse dry. Refined some moves. Feel more optimistic.
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Time to re join. Stopped posting during house move last March.
Mon. Shopping with wife and daughter. Short session on home board, 31 problems.
Tue. Weighed myself first time in ages 11st 12lbs. Bike round Humber 4hrs 5mins 68 miles battered.
Wed. Rockcity mainly repeating stuff up to 7a.
Thurs. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Peak. looked at a lot of damp rock, pulled on a bit but mainly walking miles and miles.
Sun. Bike 3hrs 22mins. 55 miles. weights upperbody.
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STG: Rehab finger
M-F: Cold, tried training but nothing there.
S: A good session, max hangs, assisted one armers.
S: Max hangs, comparable to yesterday despite feeling tired when starting.
Firstly, finger has turned out to have an A2 pulley tweak, so no crimping for a while. Managed lewis treatment and massage most days.
Secondly, I had been planning to start a strength build up for a font trip in March (surprise, surprise) but another option means things are up in the air a bit. Will continue max hangs this week anyway.
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STG: Get home, recuperate TICK!
MTG: E5 onsight, RP 7b
LTG: LH&F goals in Switzerland, Dolomites, US
M - Flew home
T - Feet-on fingerboard session: 20 mins enduranc-y stuff
W -
T - Biscuit Factory - First time in a month so focused on volume of easy stuff
F -
S - Winspit. Conditions only suitable for Idwall VDiffs: equal portions mist, condensation and drizzle. Did some gopping wet 5s and greased off a 6c. Forecast hadn't been great but, for once, the Purbeck micro-climate let me down.
S -
Easy week, batteries recharged, back to work, back to training. Keep going with endurance-y stuff. Family back shortly so trips away on hold for a few weeks.
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STG - keep up various injury rehab stuff, start running again, get in proper shape for MTG
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+. looking pretty optimistic now.
LTG - 8A, 68kg
M - Start to feel ill about lunchtime
T - Ill, but walk on beach with family anyway - couldn't miss only sun in about 6 weeks. Got chilled through - properly grotty by eve. ate nothing in pm.
W - Ill, in bed all day, but slightly better by eve. ate nothing.
T - Improving through the day, still not 100% though. Went to TCA in eve anyway, good session, suprisingly. Bunch of the new reds up to 7Aish, worked some of the harder ones, and was shown an amazing but scary sequence for one of the harder mothership probs. felt light, unsuprisingly.
F - TCA aft, excellent session, despite 2nd day on after illness and christmas. Good progress on two of the hardest reds (both high 7's I guess), finished off another one, and managed the scary dyno I was shown the day before, plus two other mothership probs that are around the low/middle 7's
S - work
S - work
68-70kg. (dropped pretty quick when I was ill, but 70kg again this morning)
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Goals same as 2012!
Weight post xmas 86kg goal 80kg
Monday drinking and that
Tuesday being sick then drinking and that
Wednesday fingerboard, pressups and core
Thursday fingerboard pressups and core
Friday night off and a few beers
Saturday quick lunchtime session at depot notts - did a few of second round problems
Sunday fingerboard, pressups and core - went to peak was wet - so walked with family
Came 4th in first round of notts depot bouldering league (however this is in the veteran category and there were only 6 in this category)
Mainly working up to the following goals short term
25 good form pull ups
50 pressups (different types)
3 min plank
Full set of repeaters on 35' slopes BM 1k
Full set of repeaters on smallest 4 finger BM 1k
"""" front 2
"""" back 3
"""" middle 2
My fingerboard routine rates about font2 on the BM app so that should translate to 7's on the grit
Only drinking once a week
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STG: A couple of 7bs before this grit season is rounded off
MTG: Underhand
LTG: Get some stamina in preparation for the start of trad season
M: Moderate ale intake for new year's eve.
T: Almscliff. Full day's session on Underhand. Didn't realise how knackered it had made me until going elsewhere and not being able to repeat anything. This is probably an unproductive way to attempt problems.
W: Back to work.
T:
F:
S:
S: Sypeland. Some climbs that felt tough in their out of condition moorland grit sort of way but in actual fact were never harder than 6c.
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Goals: Keep up to date on Power Club :spank:, eatswood Traverse, F8a, Sort out this niggling finger injury (should be first on the list really).
M: Bouldering @ The Works - Good session on Murples. Sore finger afterwards :(
T: Birthday Hangover.. God I feel old!
W: Yomp up Mam Tor in the fog with the family - think I dragged them all up to prove I'm not really that old!
T: 8+ mile fell run in the fog - Should have been good but felt sluggish and got a bit lost, got back to the van in the dark, tired!
F: eatswood with Simon et al - Great session, made it to the kneebar which was my aim for the day and streamlined the starting moves.
S: Rest - Walked up to Stanage to meet some folk, met a load more folk too.
S: eatswood again - Aimed to get from kneebar to end but got stuck on last hard move due to gammy finger - need to sort this out! Also forgot me steep boots so had body tension issues (saggy core???) Worked out a bit more beta so not a totally wasted session - all good training. Sore finger :(
Did a fair bit this week all-told. Finger's playing up which needs close scrutiny, icing and massaging seem to be working but there's one move on ET that I'm concerned isn't doing it any favours - might continue to work it up to this move until it's sorted itself out.
This week: Easy climbing and road running until Friday then eatswood once or twice and a long fell run.. Eat less.
:D
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STG: A couple of 7bs before this grit season is rounded off
MTG: Underhand
LTG: Get some stamina in preparation for the start of trad season
Power Club collective, with your training wisdom and the above goals in mind, please rate my regime. I intend to implement this starting from tonight. Particularly interested in what you think of the climbing wall session structure.
The Rules:
Keep weight down at 62/63kg. Anything above 64kg is bad news.
Minimum of 7.5 hours sleep each night.
Eat properly. Rehydrate and have protein after wall sessions.
Get out on rock once at the weekend if possible. If not possible have an early morning session or do a ride to get some cardio in.
2 x Barn sessions a week to include:
1. Thorough warm up consisting of easy problems, light deadhanging and stretches (particularly shoulders)
2. Progress to medium difficulty problems and do some light circuit work (i.e a couple of laps, few mins rest, a couple of laps. Perhaps 2 reps of this?)
3. Shoulder exercises. 3 reps of a 5 push up set with 1 min rest in between. Don't want beefy shoulders, just some stability.
4. Hard problems and some campussing (but go easy on the campus board)
5. Heavy circuit work. Laps to failure, 2 mins rest, 5 reps
6. Good warm down of at least 15/20 mins. Easy/medium problems, light deadhanging, and stretching.
Sound like a recipe for beastness? Quiero ser una maquina (wrong gender there? Estar?)
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64kg?!! You skinny fucker will!
what are you classing start of trad season?
I'd just boulder hard for now.
Then 2/3 weeks before 'trad season' put a PE/endurance session in your week. Not mix up sessions like that.
Someone will probably tell me I'm wrong, but...
I've just always tried to separate boulder strength and endurance sessions. I certainly couldn't do an even half good PE/Endurance session tagged onto the end of a hard bouldering session, especially with campusing and shoulder exercises thrown in as well.
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I've just always tried to separate boulder strength and endurance sessions. I certainly couldn't do an even half good PE/Endurance session tagged onto the end of a hard bouldering session, especially with campusing and shoulder exercises thrown in as well.
:agree:
If you're desperate to something towards endurance then arc'ing at the end of the session might work.
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would have thought ARC style work would be more useful for trad than PE too?
could ARC after the harder sessions to start then work in pure PE stuff into their own sessions later.
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Cheers for the wisdom. Will split the sessions. What's ARC then?
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You should know, I thought it was geographer's software of choice?
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Cheers for the wisdom. Will split the sessions. What's ARC then?
climb with a manageable but definite pump in your forearms for 10-40 minutes.
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climb with a manageable but definite pump in your forearms for 10-40 minutes.
Sorry if I'm splitting hairs but I'd read it should be a very mild pump. It's just I was doing it with what I thought was a manageable pump for a while and was knackering myself. Fuzzy concept.
Found the thread where I first understood it here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=480138&lgn=40073) where abarro talks about:
ARC = no pump or very light pump, you know you're doing something but it's just a bit of extra blood flow
to add:
If anyone's not seen it already the thread's well worth I read btw, I don't think there's an equivalent on UKB talking about the details of what each type of training should mean. The posts from IO Shark, abarro, davo and john gillet are the best
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stg: Prep for Bishop - Mandala, Xaviers, bunch of other easier stuff..
Mtg: After Bishop restart weights 2xWk
Ltg: Summer Projects 8B?
M - FB-MAW, 5 x10sec +60lbs on BM2K lower crimp, run 3mi
T - Run5,5mi, 5x5 Wtd Pullups+50lbs
W - Rest
Th -FB-MAW in AM 2 x 10sec +60lbs, then 3 x10sec +64lbs on BM2K lower crimp , Climb in Afternoon 15 Problems up to 7C
F - Climb in Afternoon - Volume 55 problems up to 7A, then PM Run 3mi
S - Skate Ski 5mi
S - M - FB-MAW, 5 x10sec +64lbs on BM2K lower crimp, run 3mi
Good week overall. Felt strong on MAW, finally feels like fingers are ready to pull hard again. Watching what I eat, hopefully weight will come off naturally.
Gym stuff felt pretty good for being same day as hangs. Can tell I haven't been running/cardio as much as I should as my body feels a bit more run down than normal. Could also be the "port month" challenge? :-\ Have to continue paying attention.
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Yes you're right, ARC is 40 minutes at mild pump, it's AeroCap on the cusp of a proper pump for 10 minute intervals. Will, :sorry: probably wouldn't want to be working so hard after a strength session.
I always do ARC wrong, get too pumped and and up having to spend time shaking out, but I tell myself that it's just replicating trad routes so is ok
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Makes sense, chaps. Thanks for the info, will see it employed.
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Happy new year! (OK, I'm a little late..)
The previous week had seen very little climbing activity - lots of eating drinking and watching rain... So I started this week a little pensively upon return to the UK from France. I'd managed to only put on 2-3 lbs (which was my main concern over Xmas) and decided to start the week and getting back into the saddle with a beastmaker session on the Monday.. only working the big holds, but managed 5 sets of 3 - which for me shows quite some commitment (I hate training!).
I also decided to tackle the elephant in my training room - that is the core. Nai has been (rightly) going on at me about this for some time, so I started interspersing the deadhangs with a series of front and side planks. It hurt. Quite a bit, which suggests a considerable weakness..
Wednesday and the weather was sketchy - rubbish to be honest - and I headed to Logport wall for a power hour or so at lunchtime... I was fairly crap - managed all the V4's, but flailed on most of the V5's... spent 40 min on the 45 degree wall working on the big holds - trying to get some shoulder strength as well as work the core some more...
So friday - and myself and MrsTT were due to head up to the Lakes for a romantic weekend (with bouldering mats) staying at a swanky 4 star hotel nr Windemere.. very nice. Shame about the forecast.... Friday looked like there was half a chance, so I hurried MrsTT out of the house and piled up the M6 - the weather looked ominous on the way up, low cloud, spots of rain - but below c.300m it looked OK... Kentmere was an option, but I figured that only badger rock would be dry - and having dispatched my Badger nemisis (Badger arete) last year there wasnt much I was keen on... So, I headed up to Langdale - roadside, fairly quick drying - seemed like a worthy punt.
It was half dry - or half wet, depending upon your cup status - most of the lower boulder was too wet and the landing resembled some sort of loosely capped bottomless bog - so top boulder it was. I spent alot of time working the pocket problem (unsuccessfully) which was hampered by having a damp pocket. Not having a brush on a stick I had to dry it with my hand - on the attempts... It was tantelisingly close - and I need to think about my body position a little more in order to bring the RF up correctly... I faffed around on some other things, and finally had some success on the V4 slopey mantelly arete over the style. Given the shite conditions, I felt suitably worked out.. which was just as well - as Saturday and Sunday were rubbish. No bouldering... wandering in Wasdale on Sat, and wandering in Ambleside on Sun...
Overall I felt surprisingly good on Friday - and not as creaky as I have when returning from previous periods of time off...