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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: slackline on December 20, 2012, 03:31:18 pm

Title: Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear
Post by: slackline on December 20, 2012, 03:31:18 pm
Report on breaking strains of 'fixed' gear (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40417)
Title: Re: Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on December 20, 2012, 05:05:23 pm
Interesting. I hadn't heard of the use of the 'CE' logo to mean 'China Export'. Well dodgy.  :spank:
Title: Re: Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear
Post by: petejh on December 20, 2012, 05:18:00 pm
I didn't find this report very relevant to the UK, although the point about CE marking is interesting. I don't think 'hardware store' carabiners are commonly used on sport route lower-offs in this country.  Maybe in Italy?
Title: Re: Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear
Post by: slackline on December 20, 2012, 05:35:33 pm
Don't know about you, but I've climbed in Italy, France and Spain multiple times, so felt it was quite relevant.  ;)
Title: Re: Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear
Post by: Johnny Brown on December 20, 2012, 06:18:05 pm
Quote
I began collecting them after a carabiner which I'd removed from a belay "opened" at 920 daN (a metric unit equivalent to circa 1 kg).

This initial statement is a tad confusing on first read - he means 1daN is equivalent to 1kg. Maybe I'm a retard.

IE, 920 daN = 9.2kN, a force broadly equivalent to 920kg. This would be more than acceptable as a gate open strength (typical minimum of 7kN) but pretty weak for a new krab with gate closed (typically 20kN plus).

The China Export logo is a new one on me - very worrying!
Title: Re: Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear
Post by: galpinos on December 21, 2012, 08:44:05 am
The China Export logo is a new one on me - very worrying!

We had a few issues a couple of years ago with this. At a casual glance, they look very similar.
Title: Re: Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear
Post by: Nibile on December 21, 2012, 10:44:13 am
I have had quite a few arguments with Emanuele on an Italian forum in the past years, I find him very presumptuous and annoying, but I must congrat him for his neverending job of fixing bolts, chains and generally making crags a lot safer.
Something that is really priceless and spreads knowledge.
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