UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: hardtofollow on May 10, 2004, 03:37:59 pm
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Whats everyones favourite dynos accross the grades and most importantly whats the best?
Im workin my through the big ones in peak but im going to need some good but less well known ones soon :P
I'll start the ball rollin, my favourite so far has got to be the Buckstone, followed closely by Superior Air in the pass (damn you Pantontino, I liked thinkin i'd done a V12 in 3 goes :evil: )
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Maurice Gib V10 at Gib Tor looks pretty bloody awesome.
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brad pit's a big number in the peak for a dyno (and yes I know it goes static a number of ways as well but so does buckstones :? )
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it depends whether u mean easy dyno's usin jugs that r miles apart ergo tall people can do them or dyno's that require a modicum of technique/finger strength.
paths for the tall:
buckstone
attitude inspector
pooh
kirton
quents
george's (usin big sidepull for left)
modicum:
megatron
hurricane
dyno's r amazin but should be treated wi the contempt that they deserve. while we're at it vienna n the dyno at pex r not dyno's. they r about 5b cos all they r is standin on somethin akin to the size of the floor and bendin the legs. my apologies to anybody of smaller stature who finds these harder. they r nothin to do wi climbin :shock:
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and yes I know it goes static a number of ways as well but so does buckstones
buckstones doesn't go static at all in any way. the clue is in the name "buckstones dyno". dyno from the big flatties to the top. it doesn't say lean out right from the flatties workin your way up the wall with your hands. ron hasn't done it static. neither has adam wood. they have both done other probs. it's like sayin the kirton goes static. :bash:
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now we're talking.
best dynos what i've done in the UK:
Buckstone dyno (7a+)
Georges wall dyno (7c?)
Kirton Dyno (7a+)
Roaches Undercuts Dyno (7a)
The one right of Bulb at Eagle Tor (7b)
To Be Or Not To Be (7a)
Roche Abbey 5c dyno (5+)
Rocket Man (7b+)
Pooh (7b+)
Smoke on't Watter wall dyno (6b)
That V6 one at Pex (7a)
The Stanton one (7a+)
That B7 mono one at burbage (7a)
BTW things like pooh, rocket man and jetpack are not easier for the tall as they are quite bunched up and close to the floor - the crux on those is not getting the distance but hitting the top before your feet hit the ground. Also i don't recon hurricane is a dyno. If it was then the joker would be anall, but it ain't.
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agree wi u on rocket man, don't know what jetpack is? but i stand/jump firmly by every dyno that i mentioned.
also
lift off
rate megatron as the best problem on lime, never mind dyno
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South Lakes
The Trick - V6
Gregs Dyno - V8 :wink:
Prophets of Sound V10
Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9
Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me :D
P.S. Yeah I was quite happy with Superior Air being V12 as well :(
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jet pack is lovejoys arse-dragging one underneath the turd-burglar traverse thing at froggit. nice but low.
dunno what the big sidepull you mean on georges is.
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Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9
i'd have said they were both slaps rather than dynos.
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Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9
Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me :D
I had to dyno the last move on sloping beauty but I wouldn't say its a dyno problem, same with underpants (although I've not done it yet, but come very,very close a couple of times :cry: infact I was robbed)
maybe a new thread is needed: when is a dyno not a dyno :lol:
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am useless :cry: don't know wot turd burglar is.
georges: mans way big hold to top (hard 7c)
southerners way big hold for right, big undercut/sidepell for left (nowhere near 7c, but people claim it as that)
tis pissed thro now tho.
one-armed dyno's at stoney also genius as well as pockets on trackside boulder a la http:bloc.
don't worry dave not havin dig at u cos u're enormous, just don't like dyno's bein used in the same gradin scale :cry: :cry: :cry: but wot can u do???
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Sloping Beauty & Underpants are both definitely dynos (assuming 'dyno' means 'jump'). Or at least they are for me. More from Yorkshire:
Slipstones
- the wall opposite Micro Corner (V2/3)
- wall right of Overhanging Arete (V3)
- Super Furry Animals (V12?)
- Stipule (V9)
Widdop
- Morning Sickness (V4)
Lord's Seat
- The Roof Dyno (V4)
Brimham
- The Niche dyno (V8?)
Earl
- John Dunne Slap (if you're short)
Crookrise
- Ron's Crease (although the static version is easier)
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john dunne slap - fantastic. sad to say i don't know any of the others. when is a dyno not a dyno, o god, we could be some time. :lol:
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when is a dyno not a dyno, o god, we could be some time. :lol:
Defined by Jason Myers in The Thing #5, I quote...
The Slap Not dynamic in any way. 3 pts. of contact. You slap because you're weak.
The Lunge A tiny bit dynamic. 2 pts. of contact.
The Jump Dynamic. 1 pt. of contact.
The Dyno Truly dynamic. No contact.
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john dunne slap definately a dyno (for me anyway) unless you do it the static way of course :hihi:
underpants: The Slap Not dynamic in any way. 3 pts. of contact. You slap because you're weak.
I'd like to see someone do it staticaly (not using the pocket and heel hook round the corner tho :321: )or is it a lunge????
I recon a dyno is when you have to cut away with both feet.
I'm shit at dyno's anyway
this could go on and on
:argue2:
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i was wrong, din't take long at all :D
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What grade does superior air get now (haven't got the new guide yet)?
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v8, and Loose Canon gets v5 :!: :!: :!: :!:
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I'm surprised CJD hasn't been on yet - that boy sure puts his 'bingo wings to good use.
Anyway, here's a few more from the land of kings:
Downset V12 - Elephantitus Cave
*Oh Yeah V5 - Caseg Fraith
Poppy's Reach V12 - Rhiw Goch
*Mr Whippy V7 - Marine Drive
Punk standing start V8+ - Clogwyn y Tarw
*The Organ Grinder V8+ - Marine Drive
Saturn V7 - Milestone Buttress
Monkey Do V6 - Milestone Buttress
*The Pinch V7 - Sheep Pen
Nodder's Dyno V6 - Llanberis Pass
(the starred ones have been climbed by more static methods - although usually at a harder grade.)
But best of all is probably an eliminate: Leo's Dyno on the Cromlech Roadside Face, i.e. from the initial holds on The Edge Problem to the top - CJD actually finds this easier than the original problem!
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Nodder's Dyno is fuckin class and very frustrating.
Pooh\is a bit shit i reckon-don't really rate dynos from sitting.
Hurricane ain't really a dyno atall- tis a fast controlled pull really
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I personally don't regard the Punk as a dyno (because i've done it and i can't dyno any harder than v5). I spose it comes back to what the definition of a dyno actually is but for me that problems more of a semi static pop deadpoint kinda move. Kwalitee problem anyhoos :lol:
Heres a pic of hurley on it (he doesn't hang it by the way)
(http://server6.uploadit.org/files/chrisdoyle-sunnydyno.jpg)
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Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9
Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me :D
I had to dyno the last move on sloping beauty but I wouldn't say its a dyno problem, same with underpants (although I've not done it yet, but come very,very close a couple of times :cry: infact I was robbed)
maybe a new thread is needed: when is a dyno not a dyno :lol:
I agree - soemone strong enough could lock the slopes on SB to thier chest and reach it, and if/when you land Underpants (i haven't) i think you'll have 2 hands and a foot on. deffo slaps, albeit butch ones.
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georges: mans way big hold to top (hard 7c)
aye, thats the way i did it. funny one cos there no timing or momentum, you've just got to pull very hard with high feet. i take it you go to the break, not the gay sloper?
On the north wales flava, i must protest that although the Pinch ( sheep pen) and to a lesser extent Oh Yeah are cracking problems, they fall short of dynos in my book, they are slaps. OK they might be dynos compared to crescent arete, but they're not dynoes when compared to, say, the buckstone dyno, which IS a quintessential dyno.
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don't say that, oh yeah is my hardest dyno :crying: shame about the name.
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What ya sayin' Doylio? NICE ONE JON!!!! Good names, wish I'd thought of them...
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I except what you're saying about The Pinch, but, if V5 is yer limit, then Oh Yeah is a fully airborn experience (it certainly feels desperate enough at the end of Boneyard). I've seen strong 'old school' static boys flounder badly on this. Katz of course managed to lock the small crimp on the wall and static the move - not that that is of any import, just pointing out that a mutant can often bypass the purity of a great dyno.
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its well desperate at the end of boneyard, i must have fallen there 6 times before success.
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now we're talking.
best dynos what i've done in the UK:
Buckstone dyno (7a+)
Roaches Undercuts Dyno (7a)
i'd have said the grades on these ought to be the other way round Dave (and maybe harder than 7a+ for the Roaches one!) - i dispatched the Buckstone in under 1/2 hour yet the Roaches thing took me a few months of regualr visits to bag.
also, no Deliverance on your list??? i know it can be done a girly rock over way but the original dyno way is sheer class
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Yorkshire
Sloping Beauty V8+
Underpants V9
Wait a minute everythings a dyno when your as weak as me :D
I had to dyno the last move on sloping beauty but I wouldn't say its a dyno problem, same with underpants (although I've not done it yet, but come very,very close a couple of times :cry: infact I was robbed)
maybe a new thread is needed: when is a dyno not a dyno :lol:
I agree - soemone strong enough could lock the slopes on SB to thier chest and reach it, and if/when you land Underpants (i haven't) i think you'll have 2 hands and a foot on. deffo slaps, albeit butch ones.
I do SB by crossing onto the sloper with a toe-hook (oh yes :wink: ) out right, sketch left foot leftward, release toe-hook and momentum carries you to the top, very lovely move but not a dyno by any stretch of the imagination.
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I except what you're saying about The Pinch, but, if V5 is yer limit, then Oh Yeah is a fully airborn experience (it certainly feels desperate enough at the end of Boneyard). I've seen strong 'old school' static boys flounder badly on this. Katz of course managed to lock the small crimp on the wall and static the move - not that that is of any import, just pointing out that a mutant can often bypass the purity of a great dyno.
i think when i did oh yeah i had my left outside edge well and truly on a very good foothold, so certainly for me it was just a slap.
I recon if your other hand is still holding the starting hold then its not much of a dyno in the majority of cases.
i'd have said the grades on these ought to be the other way round Dave (and maybe harder than 7a+ for the Roaches one!) - i dispatched the Buckstone in under 1/2 hour yet the Roaches thing took me a few months of regualr visits to bag.
to be honest buckstone took me a couple of sessions to do, and only a session once i knew how to do it best (i.e. both hands laying off the pillar). On the other hand the roaches one took me about 6 goes and i did it about a dozen times cos i enjoyed it so much. I don't want to get into the old "downgrading oneupmanship" but i honestly feel its no harder than 7a and certainly wouldn't get more than that in font. the other lad that did it with me took him about 3 goes and he agreed. its about standing up fast on that high foothold and getting the momentum to carry through. also when i did it i'd just come back from a font trip where i'd done quite a few dynos graded 7a-7b+, and the roaches dyno was easier than any of them. if you compare it to Vin Rouge at isatis, thats given 7a+(7a) and i know its steeper but its similar being off undercuts, and that miles harder than the roaches one.
it an amazing problem, but i've seen thing like 7b+ given to it which just seems mental.
also, no Deliverance on your list??? i know it can be done a girly rock over way but the original dyno way is sheer class
i always consider the "dyno" way to be more of a jump, since 90% of it comes through your legs, the right arm remains more or less straight throughout. its more like doing a sergent jump at school than a dyno.
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a sergent jump at school
What dat?
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its the thing we had to do during the termly "fitness test" where you stood against a wall, had a bit of chalk in your hand and from a standing start had to jump and put a mark as high as you could and it was measured. One of the only things i was the best at.
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will start off by sayin i love climbin a)cos it's pointless b)cos u can get into so many rants :wink:
dave: was goin to compare roaches dyno to vin rouge myself, xcept, xcept, say roaches one was miles harder :shock:
bonjoy: the baron (younger) used sneaky toe beta on SB as well. looks like a completely seperate prob when u do that . good to watch.
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some people do Sb by getting the sloper, getting undercut over right then going again with left for the jug!!! sounds wack to me.
i found the trick on SB was i found a pebble to hook my thumb over for the LH on the sloper, which took all the weight and was useful since all my other tips were taped up and fucked.
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The good thing about the cross-over beta is that you can do the prob with next to no skinloss , even in fairly warm weather.
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I recon the toe hook made it harder (for me anyway) I just matched the sloper, got me toe on and went for the jug. The hard part is matching the sloper this way. agreed, toe hook beta looked like a diferent prob. Underpants, I recon if your tall enough (6'1+) you could it with both feet staying on.
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i expected nothin less of bonjoy usin sneaky heels n toes, he disgusts me he really does :wink:
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i expected nothin less of bonjoy usin sneaky heels n toes, he disgusts me he really does :wink:
(http://www.vi-bouldering.com/Gallery/feat_photgr/dave/page17.jpg)
:D :D :D
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wot's that got to do wi climbin, why it's just like it's walkin upside down :wink:
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Where you born in France Jon boy?
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The Dyno at cleft butress would be good (if I could do it) V?
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/brimham__cleft_3.jpg
Anyone here done it?
PS The tick marks on the problem to the left are Jons!
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looks like a slap to me FH..... :lol:
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looks like a slap to me FH..... :lol:
A very dynamic one! :smokin:
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use the glaring obvious jam and it becomes a slightly fast move
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use the glaring obvious jam and it becomes a slightly fast move
Jammings for the dangle clangle trad brigade!
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i would of thought a gentleman of your mature years like myself would be resorting to jammin to bring everything down to punter levels
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surely a dyno is "all points off"??? in which case tings like the pinch and thunderpants are just slaps, the latter being very fast and very butch.
probs best one i've done is the one i set down the wall:
"Cofe's dyno, V15 above a 40ft shale drop in the matrix, dead ard like me"
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I've just noticed the Roaches Undercuts dyno gets V8 in the new "Best Guide In The World" guidebook (i.e. staffs grit - its a reet corker i tell thee!). :lol:
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Leo's Dyno on the Roadside face of the Cromlech is pretty good(and dare i say it easier than the Edges problem), also there's a dyno just to the L of Johnny's wall from two big pockets to the top which is proper bo(I know this one as the coaches dyno as it's a good one to do in summer when coachloads of tourists drive past....sometimes I wonder if I'm climbing for the right reasons :roll:)
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Dynos are so hard to grade - when I did Nodder's Dyno at the Gentleman's Wall in the Pass, I had about 5 goes and felt like I'd never do it. Then on my 6th go I latched the 3 finger sloper bang on and it felt strangely effortless, almost easy - a very addictive feeling, for sure and an awesome problem, well worth seeking out.
I've still no idea what grade it is - probably V4! :roll:
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i think one of the problems grading dynos is that 90% of the time they feel easy when you finally do them. in fact most of them have to feel easy when you do them or you wouldn't have done it!
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I've got to agree with dave, dynos always feel so easy once you've got them. I must have had well over a hundred goes at the Buckstone dyno over the past 2 years (though 2 years ago I was being a bit hopeful). I got it last monday and it felt so good that I did it again straight away, dont think i changed foot or grip positions, bizarre!
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I've just noticed the Roaches Undercuts dyno gets V8 in the new "Best Guide In The World" guidebook (i.e. staffs grit - its a reet corker i tell thee!). :lol:
in that case i retract my statement in the 'route climbing thread' about never having done anything harder than a V7 before - sweet :clap:
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you'll also be pleased to know that a recent edition of Climber has upgraded the buckstone dyno to V9. :roll:
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you'll also be pleased to know that a recent edition of Climber has upgraded the buckstone dyno to V9. :roll:
Yeah its funny that, they gave Walnut Whip v9 the other month so airlie could have a hard bouldering tick :roll:
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was the buckstone at V9 so c.j.d. could have a hard bouldering tick then? :wink:
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you'll also be pleased to know that a recent edition of Climber has upgraded the buckstone dyno to V9. :roll:
thats plain damn comical, but hell, i'm just a punter so who am i to argue with grades published by a 'reputable' magazine such as OTE
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was the buckstone at V9 so c.j.d. could have a hard bouldering tick then? :wink:
sounds like a conspiracy to me! wonder who'll be next month, chris bonnington on a v1 thats given v11?
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it will be me on a v7 except the caption will read slightly different :wink:
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of course, the dyno's in HK are faaaaaaaar superior to any of that choss you guys have in the UK:
http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/videos/project.mov
http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/videos/thesend.mov
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I have no idea what grade the buckstone is - (V6?) as i have troublems grading anything. Saying this, grading is all over the place these days, so you just have to be honest , don't you (8b, Switzerland, young scotsman). Oh dear, thats another can of worms. Bye the way, I am not biting! ho hum. As for a good dyno, Coney Island Cyclone, the bogside, ogwen - lovley jubbly.
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yeh, anythin slightly dynamic n i just name drop not grade drop. think it's so much better
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I have no idea what grade the buckstone is - (V6?) as i have troublems grading anything.
Tall springy people downgrading all dynos to Vvery-small-number is not big or clever. Stop with the downgrading before a retaliatory strike is launched on some of those welsh softies we were scooping up the other week!For me and other non dyno specialists it is V8.
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and v10 for other non dyno specialists who can't dyno to save their life like me :?
oi bonjoy, what you saying about wales, you wanna take this outside? :lol: :jedi:
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It's a big bee in a my big bad bonnet this downgrade own-upmanship game :evil: :D
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of course, the dyno's in HK are faaaaaaaar superior to any of that choss you guys have in the UK:
http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/videos/project.mov
http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/videos/thesend.mov
looks like a slap to me
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.....For me and other non dyno specialists it is V8.
non-dyno specialist? fucking hell jon, you say that like you've not put up at least 2 dynos of your own! I'm thinkng froggatt and wharncliffe here.... :lol:
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and it's not in Britain :wink:
any of y'all seen sharma's project dyno on pilgrimage - it's totally ill: dyno from a good jug thing with pasted feet 30/35 degrees backwards for about 7 or 8 foot (?) to a crimp - which you have to bite one handed as your body swings past.
proper amazing and a welcome relief from 60 move long v16 'boulder problems'
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.....For me and other non dyno specialists it is V8.
non-dyno specialist? fucking hell jon, you say that like you've not put up at least 2 dynos of your own! I'm thinkng froggatt and wharncliffe here.... :lol:
I think i've been loosing my dyno wings of late. I think it might have something to do with the pain involved in catching holds with my mutant cod-hand.
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fucking hell i thought your hand was some kind of CGI trickery when i first saw it....
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Since you've gone to the trouble of mentioning it twice I'll certianly have a pop if we go there this w/e. looks like stoney only good.
whats this burbage thing then?
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Not exactly hard, but one I was trying yesterday that was pretty good,
Morning Sickness at Clattering Stones, Widdop. Looks pretty easy from
the ground, multiple tries later and 2 bleeding fingers told me!
Good problem although tall people (6' 2" ?) might be able to reach the
top with their foot still on the edge.
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looks like stoney only good
do u speak to your mother with that mouth :trout:
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Dont forget the one on the front of the Calf at Ilkley. I know its an eliminate and not that hard, but its still bloody good fun, one or two handed.
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That's the one - it's great:
(http://www.ukbouldering.com/media/images/luceIlkley.jpg)