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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: clgladiator on November 29, 2012, 11:47:38 am

Title: training for kneebars.
Post by: clgladiator on November 29, 2012, 11:47:38 am
After reading the kneebar faggotry thread I've been inspired, I can't believe I've been missing out on a way to make all my favourite problems easier! Aside from getting a kneepad is there any specific training I can do to get better at kneebarring?
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Stubbs on November 29, 2012, 11:58:34 am
The best training for kneebarring is kneebarring.

The best kneebarrer is the one having the most fun.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: tomtom on November 29, 2012, 12:00:26 pm
The first rule of knee bar club is....
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 29, 2012, 12:01:06 pm
No, unlike strength, being good at climbing is essentially genetic so you're fucked - stick to training your 'back two' etc and then harping on about how clever dick sequences don't count and 'pure' bouldering is really about pulling hard.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Serpico on November 29, 2012, 12:07:03 pm
You need (pun resisted) a decent knee-board, something like the KneeBreaker 2000.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: moose on November 29, 2012, 12:26:01 pm
From what I've gleaned of the thread, the only training for knee-bars is an abandonment of righteousness.  So to accelerate the necessary descent into moral turpitude, I prescribe a course of:
- puppy drowning
- poultry molestation
- crystal meth manufacture
- luring shipping onto rocks with a lantern
- Estate agency
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 29, 2012, 12:28:57 pm
- Estate agency

Fucking hell, don't go too far.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: clgladiator on November 29, 2012, 12:30:36 pm
a lot of helpful responses so quickly as well  :thumbsup:! I think ill have a bash at cooking up some meth while hanging upside down in my KneeBreaker 2000 to start with. I'll see you on Mecca  ;)
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: shark on November 29, 2012, 12:33:50 pm
Few questions:

Is the FiveTen pad the best ?
Any tips from stopping them sliding over your knee?
Will painting steath rubber on your jeans work just as well ?
Any other customising tips ?
 
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on November 29, 2012, 12:39:19 pm
surgically graft stealth paint onto your shaved skin.

It's the only way
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Doylo on November 29, 2012, 12:49:29 pm
Few questions:

IAny tips from stopping them sliding over your knee?

I use K Y
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Jack.G on November 29, 2012, 12:55:19 pm
Start off with an empty cup and slowly build up to a full brew.

Then go to work on your pinky extension.



Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: tomtom on November 29, 2012, 01:08:59 pm
- Estate agency

Fucking hell, don't go too far.

Accountancy then ;)
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Bonjoy on November 29, 2012, 01:12:14 pm
Any tips from stopping them sliding over your knee?
Double sided sticky tape (no really I did actually do this for one route  :-[ , it works (so long as you shave that bit of leg (who said kneebarring wasn't cool?))).
Otherwise I'm sure you could somehow use the top loops on the 5.10 pad somehow to hold up the pad, some kind of suspension system, maybe some kind of suspension belt.... :whistle:
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: quiffhanger on November 29, 2012, 01:19:18 pm
Few questions:
Is the FiveTen pad the best ?

I've got one and not a huge fan - it's clearly designed for skinny wads with stick legs. It's way too tight on my fairly mediocre thighs to the point I cant fully bend my leg. All my mates who've borrowed it, bar the sub-60kg runts (yes I am jealous - they are the ones who climb harder than me), have the same problem.

-ross
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: abarro81 on November 29, 2012, 01:21:14 pm
The real experts use superglue and gaffa tape. I've never gone that far but its surely only a,matter of time. Obviously they only work with shorts.
For me the 5 10 is verging on too large but is the best I've used exvept for some homemade options I tried in loup
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Serpico on November 29, 2012, 01:44:13 pm

Is the FiveTen pad the best ?


I've got a FiveEleven, it's one louder.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: tomtom on November 29, 2012, 01:52:48 pm

Is the FiveTen pad the best ?


I've got a FiveEleven, it's one louder.

Mines a FiveFifteen - its super symmetrical..
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: shark on November 29, 2012, 02:11:59 pm

Is the FiveTen pad the best ?


I've got a FiveEleven, it's one louder.

Mines a FiveFifteen - its super symmetrical..

Smell the glove
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Rocksteady on November 29, 2012, 02:40:39 pm
Instead of forking out for an expensive knee pad, is there any way of toughening my knee and thigh skin?

I was thinking of painting them in white spirit to induce mild chemical burns, which should then heal tougher?

My other training method was going to be to roll my shorts up and get people to boot footballs at my thighs on a cold day.

Any thoughts? What venues are good for training kneebar technique?
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2012, 02:42:32 pm
Genius thread. I think you need to measure your Gait Index to see which problems you can make easier and which won't fit your lower leg and avoid them.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: SA Chris on November 29, 2012, 02:45:12 pm
Instead of forking out for an expensive knee pad, is there any way of toughening my knee and thigh skin?

I was thinking of painting them in white spirit to induce mild chemical burns, which should then heal tougher?

My other training method was going to be to roll my shorts up and get people to boot footballs at my thighs on a cold day.


I've seen martial artists whacking their shins to kill off nerves so they can break tiles and shit. I could whack you repeatedly across the thighs if you wanted?
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Serpico on November 29, 2012, 02:52:00 pm

Any thoughts? What venues are good for training kneebar technique?

Yosemite Wall at Malham. My best is 7 separate hands-off rests on it. I didn't use knee pads, but it'd be about Fr6b+ with them I reckon.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Rocksteady on November 29, 2012, 03:09:22 pm

Any thoughts? What venues are good for training kneebar technique?

Yosemite Wall at Malham. My best is 7 separate hands-off rests on it. I didn't use knee pads, but it'd be about Fr6b+ with them I reckon.

So about F6b with my leathery tough knee/thigh skin?
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Johnny Brown on November 29, 2012, 03:40:15 pm

Is the FiveTen pad the best ?


I've got a FiveEleven, it's one louder.

I moved to 5.11 gear  (http://www.511tactical.com/raymears.html)years ago, 5.10 just wasn't cutting it. Thanks to Ray for the tip off - now there's a man who doesn't climb past a rest!
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: andy_e on November 29, 2012, 03:44:56 pm
What are the ethics surrounding building a fire and bivvy shelter whilst in a knee-bar rest?
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: cheque on November 29, 2012, 03:54:23 pm
Far cheaper than 5.10, too. (http://www.511tactical.com/All-Products/Pants/Accessories/Kneepads-Pair.html)
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: rich d on November 29, 2012, 04:11:01 pm
"andi_e:
What are the ethics surrounding building a fire and bivvy shelter whilst in a knee-bar rest"

It's fine as long as you use a blowtorch and film it for Vimeo.
Title: training for kneebars.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on November 29, 2012, 06:36:20 pm
Watch out cave... Kneebar training a la Eva Lopez

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/myjequvy.jpg)
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: clgladiator on November 29, 2012, 06:44:53 pm
I was lucky enough to be there for this, definitely the most inspiring feat ive seen preformed at the foundry.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Sasquatch on November 29, 2012, 06:47:24 pm
That's gotta hurt the baby maker.....
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Sasquatch on November 29, 2012, 06:49:16 pm
From what I've gleaned of the thread, the only training for knee-bars is an abandonment of righteousness.  So to accelerate the necessary descent into moral turpitude, I prescribe a course of:
- puppy drowning
- poultry molestation
- crystal meth manufacture
- luring shipping onto rocks with a lantern
- Estate agency

Or Journalism :)
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: a dense loner on November 29, 2012, 07:09:03 pm
U disgust me stu

And make my eyes water at this moment
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: petejh on November 30, 2012, 06:37:54 pm
Careful what you wish for Stu.



(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8232171711_1a4154981d.jpg)
(Barrows and Sparky hit the gym)
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Doylo on November 30, 2012, 06:47:41 pm
Ha ha
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: SA Chris on November 30, 2012, 10:19:50 pm
That's about the thighs of it
Title: training for kneebars.
Post by: Stu Littlefair on November 30, 2012, 11:00:43 pm
I just threw up in my mouth a little bit.
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Tommy on December 01, 2012, 11:46:34 pm

Quote: "Any thoughts? What venues are good for training kneebar technique?"


Get your wood and drill out. I built a load of stuff in my cellar for the old kneebars. The only downside is that I can't get Stu out of there - he's a sitting tenant and his wife has to bring dinners round to the back door every night.

Seriously though - gains are quick to start with. You'd never believe how shit we all are at kneebars until you train 'em.

Love this thread.

Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: kavyaanshrike on December 02, 2012, 06:29:48 pm
what does kneeboarding even help you with?
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: Kingy on December 02, 2012, 07:02:53 pm
Resting in the middle of hard routes or boulder problems
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: kavyaanshrike on December 02, 2012, 07:09:31 pm
thanks :)
Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: ianv on December 02, 2012, 08:11:29 pm
Maybe??

(http://www.ironmanmagazine.com/images/2008/11/safecalves-big.jpg)

or even.....

(http://hardlabournutrition.com/images/about/donkey_calf_raises.jpg)

Title: Re: training for kneebars.
Post by: a dense loner on December 02, 2012, 09:21:32 pm
They both train calves
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