UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: SA Chris on September 28, 2012, 11:11:34 am
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What's your most obscure oddity? Mine is probably the Guide for the Bouldering around Prescott, Arizona.
Anyone else got it, been there or even heard of it?
Second most is probably the 1991 MCSA Guide to Tonquani Kloof including Cedarberg and Boulder Kloof, but I think some people may have climbed there, or at least heard of it.
I suspect thesiger may out obscure me though.
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Lancashire Rock?
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I've this for Margaret River area in Western Australia which I doubt many have...
(http://www.thecrag.com/image/publication/00001/standard/7544641.jpg)
I've also some old ones like a 1950s guide to the Wicklow, 1920/30s ones for Langdale and some other areas in the lakes as well as couple from the 1950/60s Peak series (Froggatt and Stanage ones). Also got an early 80s guide for the circuits at Bas Cuvier.
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Leicestershire Climbs. Before I found it in a charity shop I had no idea that there was climbing in Leicestershire and thought it might be a cool idea for summer evenings as it's close to Nottingham. The book soon put me off this idea and I've never been to check any of the places out 'cos they look/ sound so bad- some aren't even crags. I've since given it to a friend who lives in Leicestershire. It had the same effect on her.
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I've climbed at 10 crags in Leicestershire. I reckon there must be at least a dozen good routes there.
West Midlands Rock, Lleyn, old orange Northern England guide, Cheesewring and South East Cornwall....all standard stuff....the difference is I've climbed quite a lot at them!
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I've climbed at 10 crags in Leicestershire. I reckon there must be at least a dozen good routes there.
Any recommendations?
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Not been to any of the other places listed so far, except Cheesewring (and I think Helman Tor is in that guide?) but have heard of the climbing in all of them.
I should have said guidebooks to most obscure areas. I have the a Northumberland Guide from 1960s; Bowden Doors only gets a mention; I think there were access issues at the time though.
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Wild bouldering in Yorkshire ;D
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Wild bouldering in Yorkshire ;D
Technically, that's mine!!
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Technically it's mine - even has my name in it (but sold to GCW) And got a fair bit of use.
edit :doh - fixed
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Recent developments on North Yorks Moors by Nick Dixon.
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Well, if you sold it to CCW I'm not sure what that's got to do with Nemo's copy :lol:
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I have got the first guidebook to Joes Valley bouldering, Utah. Hopelessly useless it is too.
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I haven't got it or even seen it, although I know it exists or existed.
But I'd kill to have a look at the Portsmouth sea walls guidebook (c. 1990s) if anyone knows anything.
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I haven't got it or even seen it, although I know it exists or existed.
But I'd kill to have a look at the Portsmouth sea walls guidebook (c. 1990s) if anyone knows anything.
Saw it once (that was my main training venue in Uni days), never found out how to get a copy though... I do remember, most routes started with reference to their vicinity to the "do not climb on this ancient monument" sign...
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Wild bouldering in Yorkshire ;D
If thats the one by Barley & Baker (1997) I've a copy of that too.
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It's not actually obscure, I was fishing for a GCW/SA Chris response. I hooked them both.
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That's karma, eh Chris? :lol:
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:lol: indeed. Fate.
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I've got this one for Kangaroo Point in Brisbane, not sure if it's particularly obscure, but it's certainly the worst crag I own a guide for!
(http://www.pinnaclesports.com.au/images/books_dvds/kp.jpg)
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You are right. KP is rubbish.
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Is that the "crag" in the picture? Is there nothing else nearby?
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I've climbed at 10 crags in Leicestershire. I reckon there must be at least a dozen good routes there.
Any recommendations?
Moonshot, Beacon Hill
Starship Trooper, Beacon Hill
Mango, The Brand
Sailaway, The Brand
Virago, Craig Buddon
Sorcerer, Forest Rock
Saucy, Forest Rock
Definitely Not, Forest Rock
Chequered Slab, Markfield
Plain Sailing, Markfield
Baptism, Markfield
Central Route, Oaks Pinnacle
Central Crack, Pocketgate Quarry
+ harder stuff at the Brand and a couple of decent sport routes at Hangingstone.
All assume good condition, and appreciation of short esoteric outcrop/quarry routes, YMMV etc etc
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Watch out for stones through your windscreen at Markfield.
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I've kind of got the guide for pont d'espagne in the pyrennees. Had to photocopy it in the library in Cautarets. Guess that's fairly obscure.
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Thanks for that Fiend. :thumbsup:
Watch out for stones through your windscreen at Markfield.
These are the sort of comments that have kept me away from Leics so far! Is this from rockfall, local kids, angry residents or some other pitfall I'm too naive to imagine?
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Is that the "crag" in the picture? Is there nothing else nearby?
Yes, and no respectively, especially when you don't have a car! It's floodlit so provides a change from the wall for post work climbing in Brizzy. Polished to Stoneyesque levels!
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I think i may have one to a limestone sport area near Krakow, Poland. It wasn't that great (book or climbing)
I have a home-print copy of the South Devon and Dartmoor supplement produced by Moorland Rambler in Exeter, that's quite obscure.
A Czech guide to Tisa and Ostrov? I can't understand enough of it to know if it is obscure. :shrug:
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I haven't got it or even seen it, although I know it exists or existed.
But I'd kill to have a look at the Portsmouth sea walls guidebook (c. 1990s) if anyone knows anything.
Saw it once (that was my main training venue in Uni days), never found out how to get a copy though... I do remember, most routes started with reference to their vicinity to the "do not climb on this ancient monument" sign...
It was mine too, when I couldn't scrounge a lift to Purbrook. Fun trying to get a session in before the coastguard spotted you.
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I've got four different Lleyn guides.
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Probably this
(http://gpam.free.fr/escalade/sites/topos/images/topo_ceou.jpg)
or this
(http://www.harropianbooks.com/harropian/images/items/175x400/371.jpg)
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Probably this
(http://gpam.free.fr/escalade/sites/topos/images/topo_ceou.jpg)
Snap :)
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;D
I was a bit gutted back in 1991 to discover that this wasn't Ceuse when we arrived :wall:
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Can`t do the quote thing - stones thrown by kids at Markfield. It wasn`t a one off but was a few years ago.
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;D
I was a bit gutted back in 1991 to discover that this wasn't Ceuse when we arrived :wall:
Was in the vicinity with family a couple of years ago, so escaped to ceou with mrs rodma for a couple of afternoons to get sore feet, gripped and roasted by the sun. i'm sure it's a great venue if you like that sort of thing.
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I've climbed at 10 crags in Leicestershire. I reckon there must be at least a dozen good routes there.
You're ahead of me then. I've only climbed at about half a dozen crags in Leicestershire that I can think of off the top of my head. But my Leicestershire Climbs was the 1970s yellow one, which was already a great rarity when I bought it circa 1980.
Any recommendations?
Moonshot, Beacon Hill
Starship Trooper, Beacon Hill
Mango, The Brand
Sailaway, The Brand
Virago, Craig Buddon
Sorcerer, Forest Rock
Saucy, Forest Rock
Definitely Not, Forest Rock
Chequered Slab, Markfield
Plain Sailing, Markfield
Baptism, Markfield
Central Route, Oaks Pinnacle
Central Crack, Pocketgate Quarry
Pocketgate is a SSSI with Pre-Cambrian rock of great geological / palaeontological significance and climbing there is *very* banned.
+ harder stuff at the Brand and a couple of decent sport routes at Hangingstone.
All assume good condition, and appreciation of short esoteric outcrop/quarry routes, YMMV etc etc
There used to be some decent routes at Huncote (e.g. The Rack, 3rd ascent me) and Whitwick too, long since landfilled.
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I think I've still got a copy of the guide showing the bouldering on the main building of Bangor Uni.
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I once had a guide book for here:
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4127/5107841319_e3c3eae3d3.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/barelyreal/5107841319/)
The Bunker, Berlin (http://www.flickr.com/photos/barelyreal/5107841319/#) by tchihaya (http://www.flickr.com/people/barelyreal/), on Flickr
Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.
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I've got a guide for a random little Christian Core bouldering area in Northern Italy called Triora, don't think many people have heard of it.
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Never heard of it Doylo
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I once had a guide book for here:
Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.
I used to have the guidebook for Finedon Slabs in Northamptonshire - an old iron ore loading bay constructed of concrete. Those ones in Berlin look like El Cap by comparison...
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still concrete though.
This looks a lot more pleasant
https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Blantyre_Towers (https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Blantyre_Towers)
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I've got a guide for a random little Christian Core bouldering area in Northern Italy called Triora, don't think many people have heard of it.
Mostly famous for a diplomatic incident a few years ago, when in full summer Mauro Calibani went and flashed "Mano Aperta", that Core had given 8a. Turns out it's only 7b+/c but at the moment it caused a bit of a shock.
mano aperta flash (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEj6e3W_P_M#)
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I've got a guide for a random little Christian Core bouldering area in Northern Italy called Triora, don't think many people have heard of it.
Mostly famous for a diplomatic incident a few years ago, when in full summer Mauro Calibani went and flashed "Mano Aperta", that Core had given 8a. Turns out it's only 7b+/c but at the moment it caused a bit of a shock.
mano aperta flash (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEj6e3W_P_M#)
Ye Danny Cattell did it when we were there, he was only 15 or so. Core 8a down to 7b+!!! :o
Good video ha ha
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I once had a guide book for here:
Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.
I used to have the guidebook for Finedon Slabs in Northamptonshire - an old iron ore loading bay constructed of concrete. Those ones in Berlin look like El Cap by comparison...
I had that guide too - very strange 'crag'. I went there in 1983 for some reason.
Once when I was working for DR Climbing walls back in the early 90s I was asked to go back to a spray concrete lead tower that we had previously built at a military base near Carlisle. Myself and Rennie climbed all the routes and possible variations then I had to write a guidebook to it. Lovely sunny couple of days - almost felt like we were down at Trevallen (almost).
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I once had a guide book for here:
Bolted routes on Blockhouses and Flak towers around Berlin.
I used to have the guidebook for Finedon Slabs in Northamptonshire - an old iron ore loading bay constructed of concrete. Those ones in Berlin look like El Cap by comparison...
I had that guide too - very strange 'crag'. I went there in 1983 for some reason.
That must have been in the heady days of route development there! I was there after all the 'classics' had been established - probably 1987ish. I only went once - not a patch on Slawston...
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... The first print of Colin Kirkus, how to climb... Or the 1978 climbers guide to pontesford rocks, Shropshire.
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Wappy Spring guidelet, somewhere in Staffs I think. I'd be amazed if more than a handful of folk have heard of it.
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I've got the beginnings of an attempt to document my favourite eliminates at Henry Price.
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Please, has anyone seen, owned or heard of a guide to the Palisades along the Hudson above NY? The word is that access is denied but there may be something from underground ??????
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The cleadon hills ......
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Can ' t lay my hands on it at the moment but an early 70's Castle Eden manuscript is in the loft somewhere!!! I believe the guide has outlived the crag!!
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Can ' t lay my hands on it at the moment but an early 70's Castle Eden manuscript is in the loft somewhere!!! I believe the guide has outlived the crag!!
Pah! That's normal in Leicestershire.