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the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: shark on September 04, 2012, 02:48:15 pm

Title: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: shark on September 04, 2012, 02:48:15 pm: A direct and pumpy eliminate with a superb burly move near the top.

30m. Follow Half Decent to where it joins Indecent Exposure. Climb the fingery wall direct to gain the break and move right to join Body Machine at its rest. Follow BM through bulge but instead of traversing right climb direct to the break and overlap above (bolt). Using a hidden incut sidehold just above, make an extending move past the bolt to reach easier ground. Teeter up to join Indecent at its last bolt and finish up this.

Simon Lee 4.9.12

NB The bolt before the lower break needs extending at the moment. If my battery will hold enough charge I'll add an extra bolt on Friday. Steve Mac repeated/flashed the route after.
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: dpb on September 04, 2012, 03:05:10 pm: :great: nicely done Simon, congrats
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 04, 2012, 03:07:56 pm: Effort shark. Can't believe new routes are still going down at The Tor!
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: andy_e on September 04, 2012, 03:10:42 pm: Quote from: shark on September 04, 2012, 02:48:15 pm
Steve Mac politely waited until I climbed the route and promptly flashed it with ease.
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: shark on September 04, 2012, 03:13:05 pm: Quote from: andi_e on September 04, 2012, 03:10:42 pm
Quote from: shark on September 04, 2012, 02:48:15 pm
Steve Mac politely waited until I climbed the route

I made sure he never left my sight
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: andy_e on September 04, 2012, 03:18:39 pm: :lol:

Effort.
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Dolly on September 04, 2012, 03:49:37 pm: Nice one mate
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Wood FT on September 04, 2012, 04:10:39 pm: :beer2:
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Doylo on September 04, 2012, 04:23:38 pm: Is the name a reference to Zippy missing it? Nice one
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: shark on September 04, 2012, 04:36:07 pm: Quote from: Doylo on September 04, 2012, 04:23:38 pm
Is the name a reference to Zippy missing it? Nice one

Yes, (I did apply to him for planning permission") and because its next to Indecent Exposure. Cheers
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: B-Bird on September 04, 2012, 06:52:57 pm: Nice one Simon!
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: mark on September 04, 2012, 08:23:30 pm: Decided that 'The Zipless Fuck' was a bit too radical, eh?

Good effort.
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Paul B on September 04, 2012, 08:37:46 pm: Good job the Oak is drying out or else you'd be a lost soul and revert to hanging excessive amounts of weight from yourself and your wedge!
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: marky8b on September 04, 2012, 10:23:36 pm: Well done Si :great:
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Nibile on September 05, 2012, 06:15:19 am: God job!
And at The Tor!
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: cheque on September 05, 2012, 11:48:34 am: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Jaspersharpe on September 06, 2012, 02:35:35 pm: I've heard this has been repeated by a girl using a kneepad at 7c+. Never mind eh. ;)
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: SA Chris on September 06, 2012, 04:09:07 pm: Beat me to it!

Apparently she used technique, grace and finesse too :)
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 06, 2012, 04:18:19 pm: Where's the ROFLcopter?
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: Duma on September 06, 2012, 04:30:41 pm: (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/73/Roflcopter.gif)
(http://www.afrojacks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/lolcano1.gif)
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: shark on September 07, 2012, 03:31:41 pm: Quote from: shark on September 04, 2012, 02:48:15 pm
NB The bolt before the lower break needs extending at the moment. If my battery will hold enough charge I'll add an extra bolt on Friday. Steve Mac repeated/flashed the route after.

Unfortunately my battery has died. I'll sort out a drill at some stage. Till then a sling on the bolt is required (not in-situ, natch)
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: abarro81 on September 07, 2012, 03:34:29 pm: :beer2:
Now for the oak?
Title: Re: [Unzipped][8a][Raven Tor]
Post by: shark on September 07, 2012, 03:35:26 pm: Quote from: abarro81 on September 07, 2012, 03:34:29 pm
:beer2:
Now for the oak?

Is it dry ?