UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: fuzzface93 on June 27, 2012, 01:47:35 pm
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Anyone have any Beta for All Elements ( the V11 start to tom randall's One Infinity ) that is different / better than in the video, or is tom's video gospel on this one?
Cheers guys :beer2:
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Hmm, Tom's problem, Tom's video. I wonder which is definitive? :-\
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Statistically speaking, there's a 0% chance of there being any other beta of course.
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has been done 'without a single jam', theres a clue
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That's what I like to here Mr Norman! Any change in grade for a jamless ascent do you know?
Would be tempted to try it both ways though
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Think he just said hard 8a, its one very strong fella that did it that way though i beieve.
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Any change in grade for a jamless ascent do you know?
You don't get a higher grade for using a bad sequence! ;D
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@ Ben Yeah I can imagine, did not look obvious without jams. Mind you, often technique > strength... if only I was technical.
@Stubbs, agreed and slight tongue in cheek noted. Although I have seen cracks given grades for jamming and grades for lay backing / ect. Or at least I thought I did. My point is, it likely changes the problem enough to make it some sort of 'eliminate variation' , at this point i'm dangerously close to being a wally.
:off: Ben you wouldn't be interested in a trip down to devon at some point by any chance? Prob go here amongst other places : http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=12492 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=12492)
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Both myself and Pete Whittaker did it the jamming way, but I have had the non-jamming way at the start demoed to me by a guy who nearly repeated it about 3 years ago. It's not too bad using the layback, but does rely on a sandy pocket for a foothold which is slightly annoying. I think Ben Bransby tried it the jamming way, Jimbo Kimber tried a mixture and Tom Newbury did it non-jamming.
My beta isn't 100% as Pete used a mono instead of the finger jam near the end and I make some readjustments in the handjam, whereas Pete goes straight into it. There's also a small crimp near the finger jamming section that you can use instead of the jam, to make a long move from the 2-finger pocket/blocky thing.
As for the link up, there's a million ways to do that. It's covered in jugs! ;D
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Cheers man, I appreciate the reply. I'll probably take Jimbo's approach and do the jamming way with non jamming when my crack skills fail me. Did you scope much of the surrounding area out at all, or were you just focussing on the jamming crack only?
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I did check out the surrounding area and found not much to be honest. There's a few bits and pieces, but little to shout about. I always thought round the back of Bath Uni had a bit of potential if you had the time to explore.