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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: El Mocho on April 16, 2012, 09:59:01 am

Title: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: El Mocho on April 16, 2012, 09:59:01 am

Did the direct mantle here yesterday, pretty thrutchy- I am covered in grazes today all over my chest, arms and knees! Not the easiest to grade as it is dependent on how much you like humping stuff. Beta fairly obvious but it does tackle the nose as direct as possible without the good holds out left on the easy problem. My beta: up to undercuts, RH undercut pocket, left to lip then work slightly R to nose and over.

Vid of JB on it here cut throat snake (http://vimeo.com/40439718) (edit: still queuing with vimeo)

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: dave on April 16, 2012, 10:31:12 am

I always wondered if there was anything decent there.

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: Bonjoy on April 16, 2012, 04:34:52 pm

Good work. Cleaned this up about two years back then pretty much gave up on it. It's also been separately 'discovered' by at least two other folk I know.
Snakes indeed  :lol:. Oh well I'd never have done it if it rates Bransby 7b+ (makes the infamous Welford 7b+ seem positively soft touch)!!

Any footage of ascent? Would love to see how you mounted it.

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: Jim on April 16, 2012, 05:16:02 pm

looks piss

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: r-man on April 16, 2012, 05:32:44 pm

Where is it?

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2012, 05:41:13 pm

Its near Cutthroat bridge on the A57.

Quote

My beta: up to undercuts, RH undercut pocket, left to lip then work slightly R to nose and over.

That is literally the worst beta I've ever seen. What Ben did was use his right heel to get his right hand back to the arete (the bit I fail to stick in the vid), then switched heels and mantelled with his left heel up.

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: Jaspersharpe on April 16, 2012, 05:48:47 pm

 :lol:

You sandbagging bastard Bransby!

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: Fiend on April 16, 2012, 06:36:13 pm

Unspeakably bad beta?

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: El Mocho on April 17, 2012, 08:33:03 am

Quote from: Johnny Brown on April 16, 2012, 05:41:13 pm

That is literally the worst beta I've ever seen. What Ben did was use his right heel to get his right hand back to the arete (the bit I fail to stick in the vid), then switched heels and mantelled with his left heel up.

Quote from: El Mocho on April 16, 2012, 09:59:01 am

then work slightly R to nose and over.

 :shrug: Sounds pretty similar to me. Don't want to give too much away, I have a reputation for Bransby 7B+ to maintain.

Quote from: Bonjoy on April 16, 2012, 04:34:52 pm

Any footage of ascent? Would love to see how you mounted it.

This is an almost identical move to that thing me n Ned did at Robin Hoods (RH side pull arete, LH palm and high LF) so if you just watch the vid of that you will have all the beta and just imagine a lot more wobbling and humping and grinding going on. There was a point I was considering going and borrowing my wifes neoprene rash vest but I was already wearing her knickers and I am only alowed 1 item at a time.

Title: Re: [peak] [cut throat buttress] [cut throat snakes] [7B+]
Post by: monkey boy on October 19, 2015, 03:03:50 pm

Attempted to brush this up and try it today. Obviously much too warm but seems like a great problem; I was trying it differently to Bransby, imagine that!

Anyway with some traffic I am sure it will clean up nicely. Get to it!

Oh and it felt way harder than 7B+ and I like humping!