UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: shark on March 25, 2012, 08:17:17 pm
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Be interesting to see which Brit gets the first repeat. Place your bets...
Malc has been on it (year before last?)
Jordan's on it this year as is Neil Mawson
Caff did it with one rest (in the middle of the crux secrtion) last year but is currently on Bat Route
Somebody should get Ed Hamer to pull his finger out to turn the gas up
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Caff
Mawson
Jordan
Malc
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1-mU-YSk32I (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1-mU-YSk32I)
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Hmm think Caff but would like Mawson to do it as he's weak :lol: ? Ed will want to do 15 8cs and 15 8c+s before he gets on a 9a ;)
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Ed will want to do 15 8cs and 15 8c+s before he gets on a 9a ;)
...and declare they are all piss
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Caff did it with one rest (in the middle of the crux secrtion) last year but is currently on Bat Route
As Bat route has just lost a crucial undercut in the first roof Caff may not still be on it!
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Caff did it with one rest (in the middle of the crux secrtion) last year but is currently on Bat Route
As Bat route has just lost a crucial undercut in the first roof Caff may not still be on it!
That isnt the massive undercut is it? is the kneebar rest one? (just interested.... not really ever a route on my radar....in this lifetime at least)
Cheers
Tim
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Not that one! If that came off I think it would take half the catwalk with it. The 1st crimpy undercut in the roof to start the crux sequence, only heard the info second hand and it may still be climbable but def bit harder or it may be found and glued? Guess it depends how fragile the remaining hold is...
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There's definitely another way of climbing this without that undercut, as I worked a sequence without it initially (I had tweaky fingers on the RH). Can't remember it, sadly; it was harder, though not night-and-day harder
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Caff did it with one rest (in the middle of the crux secrtion) last year but is currently on Bat Route
As Bat route has just lost a crucial undercut in the first roof Caff may not still be on it!
He was on it yesterday.
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It was yesterday that the hold came off. Didn't think Caff was at Malham yesterday - spoke to him this morning on phone and he was down there Sat - def no mention of broken hold from him.
Re hold - were planning on heading over tomorrow to check it out and see if it needs any stabilization but due to excessively hot forecast prob going Kilnsey and then away for a few weeks, if any of the other puns who have been on it get chance it would be good to sort before anything more comes off, although as Stu has said it sounds like (as I was also thinking) it will be possible without. At least Steve will stop calling it 8b+ then!
Also (sorry turning this into a Bat Route thread) the holes got drilled for new bolts but again unlikely for me to get chance to actually get the bolts from YBF or place them before I go away but if any other peep is keen get in touch with Dave Musgrove and get the bolts (10mm expansion 7 of them)
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It was yesterday that the hold came off. Didn't think Caff was at Malham yesterday - spoke to him this morning on phone and he was down there Sat - def no mention of broken hold from him.
Sorry - had a senior moment thinking I was there yesterday :slap:
Also (sorry turning this into a Bat Route thread)
All good.
More gossip on big number sport routes/projects welcome....
Were you the culprit? :spank:
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Has anyone freed Begozi yet?
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Were you the culprit? :spank:
wasn't me, don't you know I am only the height and weight of a 10 year old. some big guy "like Arnie".
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Rainshadow is still holding out it seems
I gather Ryan P is on Action Directe currently. Anyone know how he's doing?
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Rainshadow is still holding out it seems
I gather Ryan P is on Action Directe currently. Anyone know how he's doing?
He's been home for a week or so. "too fuckin hot, cannee climb in shit connies"
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Neil Mawson just linked bat route into rainshadow. Raining bats and dogs...
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That's the worst name I ever heard. Good link though.
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Given the weather though, it's fairly apt. I think "Brickbats" would be quite a good name myself (for a "brick'ard" variant).
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I quite like the name. Has he put a number on it?
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(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/7a/Shadow_of_the_Bat_1.jpg)
next.
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Is that batman getting assraped?
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What goes around comes around.
(http://images.cheezburger.com/completestore/2011/11/15/0097a692-e1d0-4188-8580-9c2c86a5c3fb.jpg)
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Quality name!
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There's already a Batshadow.
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Jordan got to within 5 moves of the chain yesterday
:bounce:
Hope conditions are good on monday
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Enzo Oddo is in malham and was working rain dogs today. Looked good given the conditions ...
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Enzo Oddo is in malham and was working rain dogs today. Looked good given the conditions ...
I would think so, its only 8a! I presume you mean Rainshadow?
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Yup thats what I meant
:slap:
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Word on the street in Loup is that he's mainly gone to England for the grit!
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Word on the street in Loup is that he's mainly gone to England for the grit!
I spoke to him on the Catwalk (Enzo didn't say hi) and he said they'd had 4 or 5 days at Malham and they'd been in Sheffield on the Grit before then. 15 days in total, half of that gone already. The group of them seemed pretty keen to know what was and wasn't dry at other Yorkshire crags, unsurprisingly really.
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Send them to the Diamond, they can clear up the multiple 8c+'s and 9a's that haven't been done yet.
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Oscar Krumlinde and Enzo Oddo climbing on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47942986)
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Oscar Krumlinde and Enzo Oddo climbing on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47942986)
I hope they took their brushes with them.....
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Beat me to it
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I hope they took their brushes with them.....
To go with their fixed lines?.... Welcome to England.
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Funny how I (and plenty other non-F9a+ climbers) managed to do brass monkeys without 12" donkey lines. And with technique too!
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Jordan is a whisker away from Rainshadow, rained off today but reckons it will go in the next couple of weeks! Best of luck to the man!
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Send them to the Diamond, they can clear up the multiple 8c+'s and 9a's that haven't been done yet.
Tried this today as they were taking their draws and ropes down. They seemed more keen to get back to a ferry as early as possible (i.e. anywhere further south than Yorkshire) and get off this isle. However, the fact the diamond was near the see did seem to pique some vague interest for a minute.