UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: maybe_si on March 12, 2012, 08:16:52 pm
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I went to check out Dyserth Waterfall the other day, I was impressed with how much of a lovely spot it was, had a nice warm up on the easy routes 5-6b, ticked the one move wonder 7a on the left then tried one of the 7c's, cant remember the name but its the first one you get to.
Any way............
The first half was pretty cool up to the big roof........ then it felt impossible turning the lip........ am i being a punter? Has a hold fallen off? It looks like there is a scar......... any ideas?
Cheers
Si
:dance1:
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Alright, funnily enough i gave that a quick go the other day too, it's called strawberries man. I was wondering about that though - looks like there's just a big dusty scar and nothing obvious to go for apart from that. I guess it could just be cos its so cobwebby and dusty at the moment but i was wondering if something had come off. Shame, was really good fun up to that point
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yeah it was nice and fun up to there, im just not sure if im being a punter or not?!
I just hoped after climbing through the roof you would have earned a nice hold or two!
:unsure:
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If you go to my YouTube (doylo99) the FA is there.I would link it but I'm on my phone.basically get to good right hand under roof,good heel out left and left hand to a good crimp just above lip.intermediate crimp with right and big crux move up and right to a slopey hold.come into the top.good bit.of.the.corner with left and right to a.good.finger hold.done! Hope.nothing has come off
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Apologies about the full stops.shit phone
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holy crap, Doylo you monster, I am clearly a punter!
I had kind of guessed that could be the only possibe sequence bit if seemed feckin nails!
Is the other 7c next door and the 8a next door again just as desperate?!
Oh yeah and again, it really is a lovely spot :)
Cheers
Si
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I think its probably the easiest of the trio. They ve had a few ascents but not many yet i think. The 8a is the best route there.Happy memories!
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Cheers buddy
Time to get training then!
Any suggestions for other A55 roues 7b-8a that are crimpy and sustained/not too slopey and cruxy? Its turning in to my local spot!
Cheers
Si
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I guess most of them are slightly more cruxy than sustained.jumbo loving is a soft 7c at Ty newydd that might be worth a look. El tigre and tony stud at llanddulas.mudjekeewis 7b+ also at dulas. The wizard is oz very nice wallclimb 7b+ at penmaenhead.check out the tower at dulas
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have done el tigre and mudjikeewis already, also the 7a's/7a+ at ty newydd already, my buddies did the 3 degrees of levitation/separation and it looked good but not tried it yet nor jumbo loving so i'll have to get back there, not been to the tower yet, have done sir crimpalot so will have to check out wizard too
Cheers for the suggestions :icon_welcome:
Si
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Don't forget Release the Hounds, brilliant 7c arete on Craigiau Gigfran.
Sounds like Strawberries might be a 'H' then :-\
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Could well be,pete robins fell of it ;)
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doh, will have to go back! cool route though, thanks for putting it up :)
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Strawberries Man is a top route. I'd rate it as the epitome of 7c, although the moves are quite involving so easy to fluff. The throw up right past the overlap is just a little blind until you figure it out - feels fine on the redpoint though.
Meatsville Arizona to the right is also really good. It felt a chunk harder, but the difficulties are short lived and it's a totally different style.
Big Kahoona Burger at Llandulas Tower is also worth checking out as another quality 7c. The start from the ledge and over the first roof is quite hard to figure out but it's fairly low in the grade, easier than the Dyserth 7cs anyway.
Tommy
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I found I couldnt clip the bolt on the lip
I've just spotted a cheakey high left heel hook
On Doylo's utube.
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strawberries man (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pm9Y8f1kgY#)
Left heel is bomber...